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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Carl, Boy am I glad to hear that you and the Mrs. were not injured! I too live on a dirt road, that exits the black top perpendicular and proceeds to drop 30 feet or so in a roller coaster like fashion then banks hard left. The first week I got my new to me 87'VR I eased it over TWICE in one week! No damage, just hurt pride, and lucky for me Jean wasn't on the back. I feel for you, and know that time will heal this memory. I am glad you, the Mrs. and the bike are OK! Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    First off I wanted to say that I admire you darksiders for "thinking outside the box" as far as your tire selections go. As a First Gen. Rider I don't have a car tire option available but if I did I would at least give it a try. With that being said let me get on to the information I recently found out about the swing arm bushings on a First Gen with only 25,000 miles. The bike was brought to me because of a high speed "wobble" and I checked the usual things, Steering head bearings, binding front fork tubes, I played with the air ride controller front and rear, checked tires for abnormal wear and air pressure. Recently, I have been checking the final drives for perpendicularity to the axle and have had to shim one or two so they would not be bound up. I had my indicator "rig" on the final drive and noticed some unusual movement. I checked the rear tire and tried to check for swing arm side play, and by hand could not move the rear tire side to side. But as I lowered the bike back down on the rear tire I saw and heard unusual movement in the swing arm. At that point I was convinced that the swing arm was the issue so I removed the rear tire, final drive and disconnected the swing arm from the rear shock. When I put my indicator on the swing arm in a "static state" The swing arm moved side to side over 1/8 of an inch!! When I reattached the rear shock the preload made it almost impossible to detect the side movement by hand but with a "cheater bar" I could move the swing arm side to side and heard a "clunking sound" as I did so. I removed the swing arm completely from the bike and disassembled the entire swing arm and pivoting shock mount and discovered that there are steel sleeves that the retention bolts pass thru but there is also a plastic (delrin) sleeve between the swing arm housing and the steel bushing the bolts pass thru. The plastic (delrin) sleeves were BADLY distorted and this is where the side to side play was coming from. *NOTE* This was on a bike with 25,000 miles on it. When I pulled the swing arm off of my 87'VR with 80,000 miles on it the plastic (delrin) sleeves were ALMOST COMPLETELY GONE!! As we speak I am in the process of machining a complete set of solid bronze bushings to replace the mild steel and plastic sleeves that are currently in the swing arms of the First Gens. The bushing bronze is self lubing, and should eliminate the lateral movement in the rear end of my 87'VR. I really didn't notice a problem until I installed the FJR1300 final drive and increased the torque on the final drive and swing arm, much the same way your car tire puts more stress on the final drive and swing arm. I will post again as this project progresses. I have attached a few pics. Thanks for your time, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Stan, If you are replacig the stock Regulator/ Rectifier with the upgraded one from Dano then the benifit is that you should see more amps at a lower RPM. The Stator can only produce what it is rated for but the upgraded Regulator should give you full amprage at a lower RPM. Did I do Good, Dano? Hope this helps, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I tried to Paypal you for the part I asked about and I keep getting a message that you are not accepting funds at this time. Can you help me with this issue? Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Roger, Thanks for the kind words! I compiled this kit because the only time my 87'VR let me down was when I first bought it and the fuse box "rained" loose fuses after I hit a pot hole. I thought to myself that no VR.ORG member should EVER have this happen to them. I compiled this kit with the best components available, I test all of the pre formed cables, I use high quality wire and the written instructions will guide you thru the process easily. Literally, when you read the the final words in the instructions, you will be ready to start your bike. Thanks to all who have purchased this kit and if you have any questions or want one, please feel free to PM me. Thanks Again Roger, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    If it's an 87'VR I'm interested. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey HC, If it is an 1986 to 1993 I would be interested! You can tell from a glance because the side covers have the louvers in them and are not open. another way is the rear trunk is very large as are the side bags. If you could find out a bit more info I would be greatful. Thanks, Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Chuck, Thanks for jumping in there and sharing your info. When ever I talk about shiming the needles I always give you credit. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Frank, Because everyone has their own little "buzz word" for a particular condition if we could get some more information from you we might be able to help you. When I think of an engine "bogging" to me that sounds like it is getting to much fuel. If you are not able to "cure" the problem with the choke but it goes away once the bike is warmed up then I think you have an "over rich" condition at startup. To verify this, if your Idle Mixture screws are all at 21/2 turns now, then try 21/4 turns. (Remember not to bottom the mixture screws hard, damage will result) If this shortens the warm up time or you see an improvement in the performance then you are on the right track and you do indeed have an over rich condition at start up. If in fact you have a lean condition, what kind of shape are the Carb. Diaphragms in? You could be sucking air thru a bad Diaphragm. Do a search for the needle shim mod by Five bikes, it is full of information about manually adjusting the mixture of the VR Carbs. I would also like to mention that my 1300 VR motor is a bit "cold blooded" in temps. below 60F. I would be hard pressed to just start mine up and drive away if it was 50F outside. Get back to us with more info or PM me and we will help you thru this, there are a limited number of things to deal with here and we can go thru them one by one. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    I have included a pic of the fuse box in my kit installed in the location of the stock fuse box. If you are using a lead-acid stock size battery, there will be no problem leaving the cover on the new fuse box. There might be an issue if you have an aftermarket "Gel" battery as some of them are taller. In addition to the new fuse box my kit includes two terminal blocks for "switched power" and a ground terminal block. (See second pic) The switched power terminal block has it's own fuse in the fuse box so any new accessory you want to hook up in the future doesn't require the re-wiring of the new fuse box. My kit comes with complete written instructions, a wiring diagram with wire color codes and there is NO soldering necessary.
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Bob, I am looking for the black, plastic, fuse box mount that tucks under the "rubber band" that holds the battery in the battery box. Do you happen to have one? Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Fred, Unless the metal parts of the sliders are falling out of the plastic slider you can just replace the Diaphragms and the slider assembly will pretty much be like new. Check out this How To link with pics: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32052]Ebay Carb. Diaphragm Replacement! - VentureRider.Org[/ame] If you are not up to the task of changing the Diaphragms yourself, I have a set of used sliders with brand new Diaphragms installed PLUS they have the needle shim mod already done to them! The price is $100.00 exchange (which means you send me your old sliders after you put the new set in so I can help the next guy out) plus what ever the shipping is. If you have an early 1983 VR then I can't help you, the sliders are 1MM smaller. If while removing the Carb. Caps to get to the sliders you destroy the Phillips Head screws then check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1643/cat/6 Let me know if I can help you with this, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    You Have sparked my interest, could someone post a link to the AMA so us non members could check it out? Thanks for your comments and bringing this to our attention. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Good score, Yea, those second genner's might be able to outrun you ....... In REVERSE! Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, Maybe that grass in your front yard will finally STOP growing so fast! Of course you could always put a mower deck on the old VR and get your riding....and mowing done at the same time! Hang in there, spring is right around the corner! Earl and Jean
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, We've chatted on the Facebook Motorcycle Forum, I too have gotten a bit "Excited" about some of the threads that have been posted here. My "passion" for riding and working on motorcycles is a driving force in my life. It took me two "tries" to find a woman who would accept that, so I can relate to the feeligs when you are with someone that doesn't share that view. I can also relate to your feelings when you do find someone. I have also discovered that as far as people go, some are gonna' like you, and some are gonna' hate you, but in my case, They are sure as he!! gonna' remember me! It took some time, but I can now live with that. Always remember, every "family" has a "black sheep" or two, so it's good to seeya' back, besides, I was getting tired of "sitting in the corner" all by my self! It's good to hear that things are going better for ya', I hope it continues, Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    I always put the kick stand down First, Before Jean exits the bike. I don't use it to turn off the motor but I do put it down first. I have had my foot slip more than a few times on dirt in the parking lot, or gravel and the kick stand has saved my bacon. Earl and Jean
  18. skydoc_17
    I am not exactly sure where you are in Ohio, but I have had a few members from Ohio come down to south central Pa. to "my little shop by the creek". If need be I have free overnight lodgeing, the carb. sync. is free and we can take a look at those diaphragms while we are at it. There are a few other things to take a look at and we can do it all while you are here. I keep diaphragms in stock as well as other items that you may need. Let me know if I can help, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    With the tranny having 200,000 plus thousand miles on it, and I assume it is an automatic you have reached the useful life span of that car as far as the drive train goes. I think you car just barely qualifies for the "cash for clunkers" deal the government is offering. Considering it would cost $2000.00 plus to rebuild the transaxle, you are going to be $6000.00 into a 10 plus year old car. Not much of a bargain there. The body looks to be in good shape but that still doesn't justify spending that kind of money on a Dodge. $6000.00 would buy a decent low mileage car of most brands. Just my thoughts, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    I sell the EBC organic pads to VR.ORG members for $25.00 a set, $6.00 to ship USPS Insured Priority mail. Hope this helps, Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Bobby, I am a pretty decent mechanic but have admitted I am "electrically retarded". With that being said, the fuse box upgrade kit comes with every part you need, complete written instructions, a wiring schematic with the color of every wire and where it goes. There is no soldering required. You can install this kit with a screw driver, pliers, and a crimp tool. I state in the classifieds ad "a caveman can do it". If you follow the directions, when you read the last words in the directions, you will have a new ATC type fuse box fully functional in your VR. Hope this helps, and thanks again Squid, Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    As a child, growing up in Virginia my mom made the best cornbread on the planet. For a special treat, she would make her cornbread and put it in those old tin muffin pans with the muffin papers. My brothers and I thought that was sooo cool because each cornbread muffin was made for a special person, all wrapped up. We were on our way to North Carolina to visit my dad's sister and brother-in-law, Aunt Erma and Uncle Roy. Well let me tell you mom had outdone herself for this trip baking over 4 dozen cornbread muffins and I had the honor of holding the basket in the back of the car all the way to North Carolina. That night, at the dinner table, Aunt Erma had laid out a feast and Uncle Roy had mentioned many times how he was looking forward to havin' a few of mom's cornbread muffins! Well about half way thru dinner, I started looking around at everyone eating and noticed the big pile of muffin papers in front of everyone's plate, everyone except Uncle Roy! Well being the delightful, curious child that I was (pesky, pain in the A$$) I yelled across the table, "Uncle Roy, where's all your muffin papers?" well needless to say, everyone at the table turned their gaze toward Uncle Roy and in a sheepish voice he said, "I thought those muffins were a mite chewy!" He must have eaten at least a dozen, paper and all! We laughed until we cried. When was the last time you laughed till you cried? Thanks for reminding me about cornbread, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, Welcome to the site! When you go to replace the Valve cover gaskets get the Second Gen. Gaskets! They are a bit on the ugly side with a rubber "rib" all the way around them but they are Soooo much easier to install! No RTV need and they work and fit like a champ! Also when reinstalling the Air box, try this link for the best fix for that pesky Crankcase vent tube. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2333 We get a discount from Sirrus Inc. on the Carb. Diaphragms, check the First Gen. Tech. Talk section. Good luck on your projects, It looks like a great bike! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    I would pull the fuel filter, cut it open and look for debree inside. If you find anything in that filter you could very well be looking at a new fuel pump. I have heard of more than one of the coils failing under heavy load,the check would be run it to duplicate the loss of power condition, as soon as possible pull over and check exhaust pipe temp. Now I use an infrared digital thermometer but you could just touch the exhaust pipes but I must warn: the good cylinders are gonna be hot as He!!. Don't hurt yourself doing this test. I would try fresh plugs and verify the condition of the spark plug wires. With all this being said, a few 2nd Gen Owners have gone to the VMAX final drive to elevate the RPMs while pulling a trailer. If running properly, even a 2nd Gen. should have Plenty of power to ride 2up and pull a trailer. Hope this helps, Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Go to: www.ebay.com Copy and paste 160362059027 into the "start new search" box. Click "search" and it will show up. The link was bad. Earl
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