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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Well Lewis ..... the Brackets aren't a "Gift" :whistling: :crackup::crackup:
  2. But to be honest, i'm less than excited about hose low AC Voltages. But since this whole Bunch of Items is a "System" i'd go to Battery charging as George suggested in first Place.
  3. Squeeze

    wolo horn

    Can't help with the Sound Level, but here's a Site where you check the Tone of each Stebel Horn. I'd prefer the Compact Truck ... Just click on "What does this sound like" on your seleceted Horn. http://www.valkmotorparts.com/products.php
  4. The Question about the Voltages still stands
  5. How much DC Voltage do you measure at the Battery Posts ? How much AC Voltage came up at the Stator Wires. Yes, a MKII REg/Rectf. can be fitted to a MKI Bike. How come, you don't suspect the Battery as weak ?
  6. Hey, I'm here !!!! Not really playing with the VMAX this Weekend. I was mounting a Aftermarket Fork Yokes on a Buddies Vmax on Saturday and visited a Friend yesterday to fix his Carb Problem on the Vmax. We took the Venture and had a fantastic Day with riding, Texas Steaks off the Grill and a wet Trip back Home and camein just before midnight ... Back on Topic ... If you turn the Shaft 9.9 Times to have three Turns on the Output Spline, it's a Venture Ratio, if you need to turn the Shaft eleven Times to have three Turns on the Output Spline, it's a Vmax Ratio.
  7. You're right, but, to be honest, i've never seen a such a FLAT Socket to fit in this Profile. The're either flat in the middle and chamfered enough on the outer Diameter to just miss the outer Race or flat on the Outside and hemispherical on the inside.
  8. Pulling sounds like a Plan just as using a Bench Press, but you have to make sure the Washers will need to be almost the inner and outer Diameter of the Bearings. It's important that you distribute the Force applied, be to Push or Pull, is evenly distributed to inner and outer Race. I really would consider purchasing a cheap Puller Tool. It's far easier and less Time consuming than the Drift Method or anything manual Operation. When buying good Brand industrial Bearings AND a Puller Set, you just may come out at the price of Yamaha Bearings.
  9. I just watched the Video. It describes the Operation very good, except two Things. I'd never use Grease on the outside of the Bearing or the HUb to make it easier to slide into Place because this can cause the outer race to spin inside the Hub and second, if you hammer the Bearing down using only Contact on the outer Race, you will lock up the Bearing. That's why i said, use a flat Tool to pressor even hammer it down. The Bearing will stop at the Spacer and not on the Bottom of the Hub. I use a soapy, watery Solution to help the Bearing slide, because when it's dryed, it will more glue than lube the Connection between Bearing and Hub. Dish Washer works fine for me.
  10. You can try the Drift Method, but usually, those Bearings sit very good in the Hub. I'd suggest you use this ... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95987 Be careful when your mounting the new Bearings. You nedd both inner Races sitting in Contact on the Spacer, but if you press the outer Races in too deep, the Bearings will lock up and be Trash. Dont use something hollow, like a Socket or a Pipe to press the second Bearing in. The Tool needs to be flat and push both, inner and outer Race.
  11. Wow Lewis, do you actually think Star would buy the Ventureriders Food ?? They'd be broke before the Weekend is over ... :crackup::crackup:
  12. Star/Yamaha was all over the World with small numbered but upper End Personnel on Meetings with Vmax Owners ... Some Things the Riders brought to these Folks Attention were actually inherited in the '09 Bike, but to be honest not so much and these Meetings took Place in 2002 and 2003 .... So, even if Bob Starr would take a notice about a 6000 Member Forums(this) and another big Forum(that) with maybe 3000 Members, which probably would make about 7500 Members all in all because of double Membership, they wouldn't hear us ... Don't take it personal, but these japanese Guys are stubborn and they will say what you need or not. Sad but True.
  13. By the Time you will have them found not satisfing, you could have been riding for three Days .. Honestly, in your Case, Seafoam finally won't help . It will help to some Point, but after that you will find yourself taking the Carbs off and cleaning them anyway. So, why not do it now and be done with it for a long Time.
  14. Oh yes, it has ... It's lightweighted and of no use when it comes to real "braceing".
  15. Those Shafts are different. Don't know when they changed it, but yopu could IPC or the Flatout Website and look for the different Parts ' I think(!!!) it was 1986 when they changed the final Drive and therefore the Shaft also.
  16. Why would i mount a Bypass Switch in foreseeing Problems in the Future and not mount a Main Power Relay to take the Burden off the existing Main Switch ? In Case the Main Switch passes out i could easily short wire the Relay and have everything back to working. This would be the best Improvement.
  17. You can't accesss the Fuel Jets without undoing the Carbs. And if you have teh Set laying on the Bench, you can only access teh Main Jets through the Plugs Holes. But you need to tear down the Carbs and clean them up. If the Air Mixture Screws are still plugged, nobody was there for 25 Years....
  18. I'm sorry to hear you being Kind of unsatisfied. But, isn't the Seat and the Location of the Handle Bars a very personal Thing ? The Yamaha Engineers did very stupid Things in the Past, like using very thin and weak Springs in the Suspension and what not else, but Seat and Handle Bars are a personal Thing, the biometrics of each and every Folk is different and so is their Feeling of "being comfortable with". Economics will get get better after Break In, i go through exactly the same Thing on my Max right now, but you probably should get ahold of a Tach. The Lack of a Tach IS an Error of the Engineers of the 2Gen. Coming from V-Twins, most Riders tend to lug the Engine and with the long gear Ratio the 2Gen have, it's even more tempting to let them run way under the suggested RpM. That's because the V4 feels powerful even down low, were a V-Twin normally would bog down and die. You would ride your 2Gen at and above 3.2 kRpM. I venture to say, you never hit more than 5k, even when you say "i wind it out". There's a Rev Limiter on teh 2Gens and until you didn't hit it, you never did wind it out actually.
  19. I can only second was Stan said ' I wish i'd been there !! !! ' :doh: Wonderful Video i really anjoyed it, even though it made me sad somewhat.
  20. Sounds like there's a Problem with the Side Stand Switch ??
  21. Nice Photoshop work
  22. I wanted to be nice ... but i thought exactly the same :crackup:
  23. placing a 2x2 under the Sidestand, or a 3x4 if you got a rised rear End ??
  24. I agree with Rick Butler about this Drive must have seen not so much of Service. However, before mounting, i'd suggest you check the Spline Collar for two open Holes on the End of the Collar. You shpould be able to see them clearly, because there's the Oil coming up and into thge Collar. Probably an overeducated Serviceman was clogging the Holes with Grease on the 1st Service and nobody looked at it again. I's also suggest to slightly grease the Splines on the Shaft carefully and with little Grease and Moly60, Krytox or another Grease with a Lot Moly in it.
  25. I'd love to put a Comment about such a POS, but this surely wouldn't work out with the PG Rating. I'm really sorry for this.
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