Jump to content

Squeeze

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,716

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Just to make that clear, since we're talking Wheel Bearings on our Motorcyles here, the Manufacturer calls for sealed Bearings ...
  2. Squeeze
    While the first half of your Statement is absolutely true. A larger Socket won't do a good Job for the seating of the second Bearing. You need a completely flat Tool, which makes contact on both, outer and inner Bearing, at least for the second Bearing. If you use a Socket or a similar hollow Object, you're able to press fit the outer Race against the dead bottom of the Boring. But doing so, will cause the inner Race to lock up earlier against the Spacer and ruining the new Bearings right on the Spot. What we want to have is a Press Fit of the inner Races against the Spacer inbetween them. We don't want to have the inner Races locked up because the outer Races are sitting too deep inside their Borings.
  3. Squeeze
    I just hope i don't read in your Statement that you recommend the use of unsealed Bearings ? If so, that's just wrong for multiple Causes. I won't go deeper into that. Just one Thing, the Speed these Wheel Bearings are running, even at max Speed are NOT "higher Speed Applications" seen from the Bearing Manufacturers Point of View. I never would mount a open Bearing to a Motorcycle Wheel or Hub. And there are other Materials in use for those Seals than just Buna. And there are other Types of Seals also. If the Bearing in speak is a 6004, i'd buy 6004.2RS.C3 Bearings. You can skip the .C3 but 2RS (2 Seals) are a must. Nothing else.
  4. Squeeze
    Usually, if you'd give me the Partsnumber for the Bearing, i can tell which Industrial Bearing Number this is. If you look at the Partsnumber, the first two Digits of the second Part of the Numer are the last two Digits of the Industrial Number .... I.E. xxx62-03xx-xx-xx is a 6203 Bearing
  5. Squeeze
    The FJR1300 Ratio is the same as the Vmax Ratio. It's 33/9. The Ventures all have 33/10. The Splines fit just fine.
  6. Squeeze
    I also would recommend a Time-Sert over a Heli-Coil on the Oil Plug Thread. A Time-Sert is better when i comes to seal Fluids or Gases, whereas a Heli-Coil it better when it comes to Strenght of the renewed Thread. P.S. both Systems origin from the same Company P.P.S. the orignal Thread Size is M14x1.5
  7. Squeeze
    You don't need any Adapters. The Ports are already in the Carb-Boots, plugged with Rubber Caps.
  8. Squeeze
    The best R/R you can buy at these Times is the Shindegen Unit from the 2007- YZF R1, also at '09 Vmax. It doesnt get hot at all. Works like Charm and hasn't much of electrical Loss. Might need some rewiring because the Connector won''t fit, but well worth the Effort. Here a write-up for a Vmax ... http://imageevent.com/jkvmax/regulatorrectifier
  9. Squeeze
    There's no Seal at all. The only Way i can see little Oil there is when the Oil Seal on the Drive Shaft isn't the best anymore and lets a Drip of Oil go through. If it doesn't increase, nothing to worry about.
  10. Squeeze
    Jack, I'm not saying the Coils ar electrically powered, but there are real Coils inside and they have different Resistances and therefore, produce different Voltage Values while the Trigger Areas pass the Coil.
  11. Squeeze
    Forget about those V2... Buy an '09 VMAX and you'll have anything you need, once and for all Time ... I know, I know .. Money ... Forget about the Money, in the End, it's only printed Paper, or in Case of the Greenback, printed cotton Fabric.
  12. Squeeze
    A 2Gen Pickup Coil will NOT work in later 1Gen or Vmax. The electrical Values are different. This has been tested to no avail.
  13. Squeeze
    You could also visit a local Shop. These Gaskets are Aftermarket available too. Just measure inner and Outer Diameter and take around 20mm for the Length.
  14. Squeeze
    What Mike said !! Either Air/Vacuum Leak somewhere, or the Fuel Jets are mostly clogged.
  15. Squeeze
    Hey Jonas, i was wondering where you've been the last Weeks after MD. I'm sure glad you made it home safe and sound. Your Trip sure was a Trip you'll remember for a loooong Time. I'm still green with Envy. Now, get that Thing done in Greenland and get back Home before the Riding Days are up this Season. And please watch your back up there.
  16. Squeeze
    Since the missing Cylinders fries with the Help of something flammable, i'd concentrate on the Fuel/Mixture Side. If the Ignition would be the main Culprit, spraying Carb Cleaner into the Carb wouldn't help firing the Cylinder.
  17. Squeeze
    IF a Venture would run with the Vmax TCI, the Spark Advance sure would give it a bit more Power. Nothing you'd brag about, some Folks even wouldn't notice it, but if it would work, we'd have another Option for used Parts.
  18. Squeeze
    Well, George covered pretty much everything which can be a Culprit. I'd check the Jets on the "missing" Carb. PAJ#1( in the Carb Throat) and PAJ#1 (behind the Diaphragm) are the same Dimension and it's easy to interchange them. No need to ask how i think of that first. The smaller Number(75 to 95) should go into the Carb Throat and the bigger Number (170 or 180) should be located behind the Diaphragm. When this checks out, i'd concentrate in the Idle Circuits of the Carb as a next Step. http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/cleaning_pilot_jets.htm
  19. Squeeze
    A pre '90 won't work in a '90 and later Bike. They used a double(in Fact four Coils in two Casings) Pickup on the early Bikes and a single Pickup Coil on the later Units. Also the Flywheels are different between the Years. Regarding the Vmax Units, in Theory, a fitting TCI (Year depending, same Years on the switch) from a Vmax should work in a Venture because the Wireing and the Vacuum Sensors are the same, but this is still unconfirmed. I have several Vmax Units lying around, but never came to testing one of these in a Venture.
  20. Squeeze
    It was at #1411 on the '85 Bikes.
  21. Squeeze
    Usually, this Thing is working like it should. I think the Splines between the "Driven Cam" and the Tranny Putput Shaft are worn out to a Point where a sharp Operation on the Throttle or the from the rear Wheel (like locking) doesn't allow the "Driven Cam" to slip towards the Clutch Side. If there is no Slippage, the Cam can't uncouple the Forces and therefore something has to give up. In this Case, it was the "Driven Cam". I never saw such a Damage before. Even if you'd manage to pull the Tranny Shaft to left and Unlock the thrust Washer some how, you won't get the angled Gear out through the big Bearing Hole. You need to dismount the Engine and split the Case. NOT FUNNY, as you know !! I'm sorry for being the Bearer of bad News, but in the End you can't polish S..t.
  22. Squeeze
    I can imagine the broken Part. I'd like to see a Picture of how it looks like. 1Gen - way too much Power .... :whistling:
  23. Squeeze
    Condor's right. There's no bottom on the outer four Holes of teh Manifold Ensemble, that's why Yammi used different Bolt Lenghts and different Bolt Coatings. The shining Bolts go into the outward Holes and the green Bolts on the inwarded Pattern. With a little Luck, you can find a last Piece of Thread on the lower End of the Hole and tighten the Bolt down. I'd use some Silicone RTV to make it seal better. If the Thread is stripped completely, there's a Helicoil or Time Sert fix in Order.
  24. Squeeze
    Three would just about right for me.
  25. Squeeze
    Got any Pics ? I'm sorry to say, but I'd like to see the damaged Part.
×
×
  • Create New...