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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Because the R1 will lock up even earlier than the stock Caliper. If you feel your rear Brake quite sensitive, as you already stated above, this is pretty much TOO much of Braking Power. I'd disarm the rear Caliper by putting the worst available organic Pad in. Or change the Leverage of teh Assembly, or put Rick Butlers Adjustment Valve in or buy a 10 year old Brake Line off Ebay, maybe a Combination of several Options
  2. Squeeze
    I really don't know if the R1 Caliper fits on the rear, but even if so, you don't want to have that R1 Caliper on the rear of your 2Gen.
  3. Squeeze
    I'm sure missing a Comment from KiteSquid :rotf:
  4. Squeeze
    Not a good Idea, because those worn Teeth on the Shaft will wear out the Spline fast. They may be good for now, but the will take a hit. I'd do this to get around any Down Time of the Bike, but would replace the Shaft immediately. Two to four Weeks maximum and no big Trips, or one big Trip and after that ...
  5. Squeeze
    Makes me sick to say, but you better get yourself some blue Loctite, a basic Set of metric Tools and go over your Bike by yourself, open each and every Bolt, put some Loctite on it and tighten it down. There have been reports of loosening Bolts on new Bikes in the Past and i for one, i did check each and every Bolt my Dealer had to open or install during preping my '09. I have had the Installation Manual in Hand, so i know exactly what they have had to do and what i have to check. Found no loose Bolts, but i'm glad about that and not sick about wasting Time.
  6. Squeeze
    But this Bike was before EPA Regulations came in Charge ?
  7. Squeeze
    IIRC, Condor had a Thread started about buying such cheap chinese Covers.
  8. Squeeze
    There should be a Valve which you can adjust and make the Movement of the Needle slower. On my Gauges, the Valves are Part of the Rubber Hose Connector and you turn them down until the Needles barely move. They should remain some equal and slight Movement just to make you see how much you closed the Restrictor Valves and if they're are set evenly. Maybe your Set has them Restrictor Valves inside the Gauge ?
  9. Squeeze
    My Buddy has it in his Shop. I will have him measure this tommorrow and report back.
  10. Squeeze
    Nope Randy, this Collar goes all the Way through the the Casing and the Output Gear/Spline and is the Part which the inner Race of the Bearing attaches to. A bit complicated Despricption, but that the Way it is. The Axles connects following Parts from right to left: Swing Arm, Washer, Caliper Bracket, right Collar, inner Race Ball Bearing, Flange, Spacer, inner Race Needle Bearing, and finally the Collar #5. If the Collar #5 is crushed, nothing happens except the Wheel is sitting more left than ususal. There is some extra Space in the Meshing of Wheel Hub and Output Gear, so this doesn't hurt anything. http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=327&section=13456&year=1989&make=Yamaha&category=Motorcycles&dc=1620&name=REAR+WHEEL Fork Legs Diameter are all the same on 1Gen - 41 mm at 825mm Length from Axle Center to Top. http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=4522&section=198926&year=1983&make=Yamaha&category=Motorcycles&dc=1620&name=REAR+WHEEL
  11. Squeeze
    Ramona ??
  12. Squeeze
    Mostly likely, Part #5 COLLAR, GUIDE 4YE-46153-00-00 in the Diagram is crushed.
  13. Squeeze
    You should NOT disconnect the Battery Pole while the Engine is running. It probably won't harm anything else than the Reg,/Rectifier on Idle Speed, but when you rev it up, it sure will leave Skid Marks on the Electronics, such as CDI(Igniter Unit) und your Light Bulbs. These 3 Phase AC Generator push out everything they have above Idle and when there no Voltage from the Battery to sensefor the Reg/Rect. it will stay closed and don't deliver any Voltage to the System, until the Diodes a shot, then it mostly likely WILL deliver anything what comes from the Generator, too much Voltage and not a DC Voltage. The Battery NEEDS to be there and it should have some Voltage on it's own or the Charging System won't work as designed.
  14. Squeeze
    I second skydoc_17
  15. Squeeze
    For Heaven's Sake NOOO !! No Shower necessary in these Terms. A Towel is of multiple use, just ask Ford Perfect, he will tell you the Story. But you always gotta remember " DON'T PANIC !! " :happy34::happy34::crackup:
  16. Squeeze
    You could easily leave that new Collar out. No nedd for replacing that Part.
  17. Squeeze
    I'm not sure if i understand your Comment completely. If the 2Gen final Drive is narrower than the 1Gen(which is the same Casing as the Vmax) this would put the Wheel to the Left. But with the same Wheel, Collar, Caliper Holder and Washer, this would also mean that the Axle needs to slide more into the Swingarm Boring on the right Side to accomodate Pressure on the inner Hub Parts. The Cotter Pin would fit on the same Place as it has been before. That's because the whole Assembly would be shifted to the left of the Bike. If the Cotter Pin Boring is at another Place with the 1Gen Pumpkin, it may be for another Reason. If your Bike is out of Aligment, that's another Story. They all are off for some Amount. Yamaha Germany considers 9mm(3/8") as fine. If you want to correct this, you need an adjustable Swingarm Pivot Bolt on the left Side instead of the fixed Bolt and mostly a longer Bolt on the right Side. But I'm not sure how this would work out with the Suspension Parts. It works on the Vmax, though.
  18. Squeeze
    Vauum Sensor/Spark Advance sounds good so far. Normally, Idle Speed could change by opening the Air Connector, sometimes Idle changes, sometimes not. I'm sorry, it may sound bumb, but how much Filter Oil did you spent after you cleaning the Filter ? K&N Filters get glogged easy by using too much Oil and thereby restricting Air Flow. I'm not suspecting this, but i gotta ask.
  19. Squeeze
    It's very nice to have a Buddy with a Lot of CNC-Machines at his Job ... :whistling: He wants to try the longer Ratio, and have no Time to modify the Casing to fit it to a Vmax. So he said, give me that Beast and i will get it done. ... You mean the Boring for the Cotter Pin in the Axle was 1/4 Inch more outwards to the left than before ? If so, i will hear about that very soon. He's running a 200/50 ZR18 on his Max with a modfied Swingarm to accept the wider Tire. There usually are 2 or 3 mms Gap between Tire and Swingarm. If that's happening, the Tire will rub on the Swing Arm.
  20. Squeeze
    That's a good Way to deal with the Hole. There's no Oil Pressure, so as long as it sits tight, It should stay sealed. Are you sure of this narrower Drive, never heard or seen that. iI even have a 2Gen final Drive in the Closet(in Fact should have, because i borrowed it to a Buddy) and i didn't find find anything different than all the other Pumpkins, i've had on the Bench or mounted.
  21. Squeeze
    I'd like to contribute, but i got a Set already ...
  22. Squeeze
    I never used anything there. Just bolt it togehter and go for a Ride.
  23. Squeeze
    Doesn't matter, as long as you know where your Towel is. :whistling:
  24. Squeeze
    A 2Gen fianl Drive will mechanically fit and it's the same Gear Ratio. But you need to have something to Cover the Speedo Sensor Hole.
  25. Squeeze
    I'd concentrate on the Spark Advance Devices and Hardware for the next Step. That's measuring Vacuum Sensor Output Voltage, check Vacuum Hose for leaks or a clogged Restrictor and finally TCI if eveything else checks out good.
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