Jump to content

van avery

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    377

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by van avery

  1. van avery
    Pktexas told me about it. Glad he did.
  2. van avery
    Prayers sent. Sure hope something turns up quickly.
  3. van avery
    Just a quick safety note. I know your bending the aluminum. But don't use a grinder on aluminum and then go back to grinding steel. The aluminum will build up in the "pockets" of the grinding wheel and when you use it on steel it will get hot and the aluminum expands and some grinding wheels have been know to break apart.
  4. van avery
    Took things apart cleaned the two carbs that had problems. One had stuck float (I guess) and the other with the slider not working cleaned again and and inspected closely. Put back together and things are working again. Sync'ed carbs and will try to test tomorrow afternoon if I get the time. Thanks guy's for the responses.
  5. van avery
    Yes it was better and the compression was greatly improved. There were quite a few that were to tight. When I push the slider back with a finger it seems to slide OK, about the same as the others. I'm going to pull the carbs again and find my float problem and go through #4 carb again to see If I missed something. I inspect the diaphragm again but it looked very good yet.
  6. van avery
    I've got an 83 venture for couple of years now. I cannot seem to get it running correctly, poor mileage ( 28 MPG) and back firing ( poping back through the carbs) slightly after making a corner then accelerating. After a pop or two it picks up and takes off. This is with both the original TCI and the new one I purchased last year. The bike normally runs better before it warms up. I readjusted the valves last year too. I thought it was running rich so, had the carbs off last week to reset the floats and install smaller shims in the sliders. Still run bad maybe a little worse. Put the original shims back in. Now I have a float stuck and gas coming out the overflow line. So I get to pull the carbs again, oh joy. Mainly, I also noticed that the #4 carb slider is not moving. Last week I pulled and cleaned the idle mixture needle valve and the two ports ( top and bottom sides of the diaphragm) into the throat. I set the idle mixture screws to 2 turns out. This week I reinstalled the original shims in the sliders I have reset the idle mixture screws in to 1 ½ turns out. Once I get up to about 4000 RPM it seems to smooth out. When I syn’cd the carbs I get about 9” vacuum on all cylinders at 1000 rpm. Is there some other internal thing I may be missing that would stop the slider from working correctly in just one cylinder? I pulled that slider again and the diaphragm ( no holes in it also about one year old ) is seated correctly and I have already disconnected the YICS some time back and plugged the lines. I also have not found and intake leaks.
  7. van avery
    Congrats Perry! Glad you made it OK. Sleeping on the tank is not a great idea. Guess this makes you even more of a hardA$$.
  8. van avery
    Prayers for you and your family.
  9. van avery
    Was in Amsterdam Holland last week and saw a silver second Gen. Also, saw a Ruby first gen this week between Sweeny and Wild Peach here in Texas. Wonder If he's a member here?
  10. van avery
    Prayers for a speedy recovery for both.
  11. van avery
    If the bike is running rich you might try the shims that Skydoc17 sells for the carb sliders. Help on the MPG on my 87. Just a thought.
  12. van avery
    I built a 30 x 40 building. With 12 foot eaves last year. Have the builder add the ¼ thick bubble insulation. Just inside the sheet metal. This will help with the insulation but also helps if there are any leaks in the building this will shed the water. I put in a 10x 10 office and lined the outside of it with white Peg board great for hanging things. Left the rest of the building with the exposed 2x6 wooden perlins. I added a two foot wide shelf down both sides great storage up out of the way. Used joist hangers to attach to the 2X6 perlins then used 2x4 out from wall about 28 in long and then dropped down from the trusses above with the other piece of 2x4 and used 3 in sheet rock screws to join the 2 section of 2x4 and to the truss. Used 1/2 plywood for the shelf materials, You need to notch then around the columns and fasten then down with 1" screws. Place hangers directly below the trusses. These turned out very strong. The other thing I did with some temper board and some 1x1’s is make some small shelves for my spray cans. Add a plug at every column Don’t forget a plug for the garage door opener with outside remote control, makes it nice when driving in after a ride. I put in a load center for the power with 220 v to it then 110 v circuits from there. Check Lowes and Home depot ETC. for a contractor load center complete with circuit breakers. Get the contractor packages of plugs and switches and save some dollars. Hope the pictures help good luck and enjoy the building.
  13. van avery
    Congrats, are you getting her another bike for the celebration????..... Or hoping for time off for bad behavior. Sheri and I hit 37 years this Thursday. :backinmyday:Time keeps moving by quicker each year. Sheri said she would trade me in but she doesn't want to train another one. Anyway Congrats again.
  14. van avery
    Great looking bike welcome to the site.
  15. van avery
    I just did the upgrade spring and one friction disk from Skydoc17. I also sanded/ crosshatched the friction plates on my 87 royale and fixed the slippage. Mine would even slip in 3rd if I jumped on it. You might try just sanding the plates frist. What type of oil are you using? I used some with friction fighters and my '83 started to slip shortly after. Good luck:thumbsup:
  16. van avery
    If you have not noticed yet after the end of the notes scroll down and you will find similar threads to follow. Welcome aboard.
  17. van avery
    http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=22 Here is a link to SKYDOC stuff. Its in the "classifieds" then "member vendors". These are listed at the bottom of the first page. Good luck I just installed a set in my 87 this week but haven't noticed much difference yet. But haven't been many miles yet.
  18. van avery
    Mama's bike in front the gl1800 and the xvz12 are mine. The gl1100 is now my sons bike. My newest addition the 87 Royale still in the barn being worked on.
  19. van avery
    Nice looking bike. I'm sure you will enjoy working and riding her.
  20. van avery
    Better charge up that battery and take it to the auto parts place and have them test it. Low voltage will make it very hard to start. Low voltage does strange things to a 1st gen. I would jump it from the car, do not turn the car on.... See if thing don't fire up. GOOD LUCK.
  21. van avery
    Prayers for you and yours. Sorry to hear this.
  22. van avery
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 Try this to get rid of the Battery warning light after you change the battery. Worked for me on two 1 gens.
  23. van avery
    Money sent in. Hope the arm gets strightened out OK.
  24. van avery
    Not sure if this will help but the bike in this craigs list add looks like it has forward controls. Its an 1988 venture here near Houston texas. http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/2839616779.html I'm not sure that what you were saying that you needed forward controls or that you had them and with the floorboards they were a problem. THis one looks like it uses the original pags and forward controls without floorboards. Good luck
  25. van avery
    Thanks dave I have already glued and reinforced these areas with "Rapid fix" it's a two part system. You have a bottle with liquid like "super glue on steriods" the other bottle has a filler material. You wet the crack with the liquid and then squeeze in the power and another drop or two of the liquid and you have a very strong joint immediately. It can be sanded down. This is some great stuff. I even bonded wood to the plastic and I even replaced a tab on the upper faring by shaping another piece of plastic and gluing it in with the rapid fix. Here are some pic's of the repaired sections and what the back side looks like where I used the rapid fix to repair and the last one is the complete tab I fabbed and I have not drilled hole in yet. This stuff creates a very strong joint. Put the bondo on and did some sanding and quick primer. Still have some work to do on one of these areas ( still have slighht bump to level out). Thanks for the encouragement.
×
×
  • Create New...