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van avery

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Everything posted by van avery

  1. van avery
    I used Rapid-Fix. Had A big crack on the Top of A 83 goldwing saddle bag. Closed the crack and stronger than original. Also had to replace a peg on my 87 venture. used a piece of wooden dowel, shaped with sander then glued it on with Rapid fix, Works great. It sets up fast and strong. Its two bottles one glue and one filler. You can sand it down Immediately. I use that stuff on Everything.
  2. van avery
    Might check out the following thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-27670.html I used Autolites 4163s on the last change and haven't noticed any real difference. They do recommend buying them at an auto parts store rather than Walmart. Seem the second hand one seem to end up at discount stores more often...
  3. van avery
    Here is what I used to hold 4 bikes on the back of my tag along travel trailer. Don't know if this is what you wanted. The pipe was 1" conduit and the angles were 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 1/8. It was 25" tall and 22 1/2" wide. The "u-bolts" fit around the back bumper. Pipe insulation around the pipe supports that the bikes rest on and then some duct tape over that. Good Luck hope this helps.
  4. van avery
    It thake some extra time but it worth roughing up the plates while your in there. Just use some sand paper or wire brush to "crosshatch" the plates. Also buy a new gasket for the cover don't just use permetex. Mine would not shift correctly until I put a correct gasket back in place. It's not a hard job but follow the instructions and line up the dots on the plates.
  5. van avery
    You said something about the right rear backfiring in the original post. I would clean the terminals on the TCI. It's the black box in front of the intake air box on the right side of the bike. (Down under)Clean the terminals on both sides of the connection. That really helped out my 83. The other thing would be to check the valve clearance. It gets too tight and can leave the intake valve open too long. You might also check the vacuum line that comes off of the left front carb and runs up to a small box to the left of the TCI. It like the vacuum advance for the timing. You might have a leak in that line, mine did. Assuming that the bike has been setting that long the YICS system is most likely still there. It is a cause of vacuum loss too. Most people have already removed that from the system and plugged the vacuum ports on each cylinder. Good luck and welcome to the site, best $ 12 I spent. Lots of very helpfull people.
  6. van avery
    I have used Rapid Fix on the repairs to my 87 faring and a saddle bag lid for my 83 Goldwing. Stuff works great. Bonds the materials together and then add the filler materials from the second bottle and its stronger than the bas material. It can be sanded smooth and then painted. The bonding when the filler is added in almost instant. I have also used it to add a new post out of wood to the side faring cover. I have picked it up a my local auto parts house. http://www.rapid-fix.com/HOME.html
  7. van avery
    At 70 MPH it might be the tires need to be balanced. You might try a oz. of dynabeads in each tire. It helped the vibration I was getting in my 87. Good luck.
  8. van avery
    Great looking find. Enjoy fix'n it up and riding it.
  9. van avery
    It was a great day for fellowship and a fun ride ( where ever we were did see some nice country). Thanks for setting this ride up and leading the way. BTW Spuidley it also 70 miles from Sweeny to Waller and my GPS showed 287 miles today round trip.
  10. van avery
    I'm going to head that way see Ya'll there.
  11. van avery
    Prayers out to you. Hopefully the procedure will help out and you will have quick recovery.
  12. van avery
    I've got one off my 83 standard parts bike. Not sure it the same but you can have it for $20 bucks and the shipping. You will most likely need to rebuild it. I just did the leaking one on my 87 and this looks the same. 979-548-3666 jerry
  13. van avery
    The time before that last time I had the carbs out I set all the floats to the spec level on the bench. I also checked the little springs in the float valve to make sure they were OK, Thanks for the suggestion.
  14. van avery
    Welcome to the site and good luck with your new bike. On the battery warning light you might check out the following link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 If the PO installed a AMG battery there is no place to install the "probe" that goes into the battery. I added a reistor to my 83 when I upgraded the battery and it fixed the problem. On the idle try the seafoam in the gas about 1/2 can to a tank of gas and then they say ride it like you stole it otherwise the carbon deposits etc tend to build up on the spark plugs. You might want to check the diaphragms on the carbs for pin holes. You don't have pull the carbs to do this. See the following link. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19269 It's great to have such great advice from the the guys on this site and the search tool can lead to a lot of help. On the speedometer you really need to remove the windshield and headlighat and disconnect it from the back of the dash and lubricate the cable it, soon. Otherwise could break it and get more expensive. There are a good group of people here in the Houston area that are willing to help. I live about an hour and half to the south. Again good luck and welcome to the site.
  15. van avery
    Update on progress on the 83 venture. Sorry this is so long. Purchased new rubber plugs for the carbs jet holders. Pulled carbs and cleaned everything again. Things were in pretty good shape as they were but as long as they were out decided to work them over anyway. Cleaned the jets in the jet holder, checked the “choke plungers”, checked the diaphragms, checked the ports through the carb body. Pulled the idle mixture screws and cleaned including the little o rings. While I had the carbs off, I also checked the valves clearance and they are within spec. Put things back together and while I was there I installed new vacuum plugs over the YICS vacuum ports and replaced the fuel filter. Pulled the original nylon washers on the sliders and replaced them with the two SS washers approximately ½ as thick as original. Looked like I had good action on the sliders When I open the throttle I noticed the vacuum dropped to almost zero. Sync’ed the carbs and now have a vacuum of approximately 9 ½-10 inches on each cylinder. Purchased a small digital tach and tried to set each cylinder for the maximum setting with the idle mix screws. Bike was hard to start but does idle well once warmed up. If I slowly twist throttle the revs will come up. If I twist it quickly it drops off and will die. If I let off quick enough it would regain the original idle. Seemed like it was running to Lean? So, I reinstalled the original nylon washers in the sliders. Runs better now, resync’ed the carbs and reset the idle mix screws to the fastest idle on each. Put things back together including the air filter . Seemed to run OK in the garage but when I took it for about a 10 mile run but. Bike stumbled every once in a while running down the road and then immediately recovered. About an hour later I when back out and it’s running worse . “Coughs and belch’s ” back through carbs during acceleration after a corner , maybe a couple of times then picks up and takes off. It died at an intersection. It starts hard, cranks quite a while before it starts, and then if you give it gas too quickly it will die. Have to start with basically no choke. It seems to help to start it choked and then reduce to no choke for it to start, then open choke to warn it up some.. Again problems seem to get worse as the bike gets warmed up. While reving the bike in the garage the coughing or belching does not always happen on the same cylinder. Does not want to start with the original TCI now. I have the Ignitech aftermarket TCI running with the standard program from them and I don’t have a map sensor. The vacuum line is still connected to the original timing advance, and that vacuum line was already replaced and I did check it for leaks while putting things back together. Could I have bad connectors to the TCI or somewhere else? Looking for some more things to check? I have not bought new spark plugs yet, but I know these were all firing, Have not thought aboout buying them when I was in town. :confused07::confused07: At least my 87 Royale is running good
  16. van avery
    Took mine to a local upostery shop and had new piece sewn in for about 60 bucks to replace just that piece. Looks good and been that way for about two years now.
  17. van avery
    I’m not familiar with the 2 gens, but I had a problem with my 87 would keep running without the key “at times”. Finally found a connector to the rectifier had a intermittent short in the connector. These two wires Red and Brown and going the rectifier. The brown wire on mine feed several things the fuse box the red came off the battery. Looked like the connector had gotten warm in the past. Good luck
  18. van avery
    Looks great.Nice work.
  19. van avery
    I'm still working on my 83 venture. Just does not run right below about 3200 RPM. I recieved the little rubber plugs that go into the jet holder yesterday. This will be about the 4th time into these carbs. Learn a little more each time. Good luck with yours.
  20. van avery
    The little hole in the bottom of the slider should be toward the motor. The tabs on the diaphragm is at about 1 o'clock and the little hole should be a 6 0'clock
  21. van avery
    Had that problem on my 1st gen turned out that the ingnition switch screws were loose. Switch would wooble a little when turning on and off. Good luck
  22. van avery
    Alright, had a chance to work on the bike this evening. This is what I found 1.Checked the plug wires to ground and all were about 17K ohms not 24 K, they seem to start at about 19k then drop off to 17K +/- 100 and hold. Checked with different meter and consistantly got 16.5 K, stll started higher then quickly dropped and stayed. 2. Ran compression check on cold motor all plugs out and the throttle wide open and reading were #1- 135 ,#2- 130,#3- 138, #4- 140 PSI 3. Sprayed starter fluid around the intake boots and the vacumm ports and did not detect any rise in RPM anywhere. Did this with cold motor and again with warmed up motor after quick ride. 4. Checked spark on all four plugs with both old and new TCI and had consistant spark on all. All four plugs out when I checked these. The spark does not seem very bright but they are all firing. 5. Plugs look like its running rich see picture. Took bike out for quick (about 4 miles) ride and again noticed that the problems "coughing or popping" get worse as the bike warms up. It still takes off after around 3000 RPM. With pop once or twice then kick in and take off. With the looks of the plugs it looks like I should reinstall the thinner shims again.
  23. van avery
    Try "Rapid Fix" it about $25 for the kit. One bottle is like super glue and the other is a filler material. Great for fixing farrings too. Bonding is almost instant and hard. I got it at the local car parts shop. Ihave even bonded wood to plastic with it. Here is a picture of a replacement post I made on the faring of my 86 royale. A fried just repaired a car radiator this week with it. Good luck
  24. van avery
    I'll go back and check for vacuum leaks again. I replaced the vacuum hose to the original vacumm advance prior to changing the TCI out. I remember previously the vacuum being about 9 inches when I sync'ed the carbs. I'm confused that the entire system vacuum would be low since each carb is basically it's own system? The problems existed prior to changing the TCI and adjusting the valves. The bike had set for about 5 years before I got it running again. Belive I changed the fuel filter back then. Also If it were restricting the fuel then I would think it wouldn't take off at the higher rev's. I won't have time to check things this weekend. I just stopped by the house between cavalry rides. I did not change out the o-rings on the emulition tubes and reused the existing rubber plugs, They are a bid hard. The bike really wakes up over 3100+ rpm. Is the idle circuit active up to that rev? I'll update with the results when I get then run again. I'll spray with wd-40 again. Check plug wires for 24 OHMS each. Do a compression check. Check spark with old and new TCI's. Thanks again for the help.
  25. van avery
    I have an 83 venture that I still can not get running correctly. Looking for ideas and things to check and how. If I come around corner and accelerate it may “pop” back once or twice and then kick in. Problem seems to gets worse as the bike gets hotter. But is sluggish and “pops” under acceleration then takes off. Notice the problems seem to drop off and the beast has new power at about 3100 RPM. IF you lower the rpms to around 2500 RPM it really loads up. To start it up I seem to have the best luck choking it and then moving the to the right to almost no choke and it will finally kick in. Idle is a little unsteady but not too bad. History 1. Cleaned the carbs a couple of times. Had slider and stuck float this week and there are both fixed. Idle screws are set at 2 turns out, Have also tried 1 ½ turns out. Tried smaller shims and bike run worse so reinstalled original shims in sliders. Rechecked the float levels. 3. Set the valves last year and several were too tight. 4. New plug wires and caps and plugs last year. 6. Have after market TCI using the stock program. about 1 ½ year ago NO MAPP sensor. Basically does the same things with the original TCI in place. 7. Sync;d carbs several times and again last night. Run about 6 inch at 1000RPM . 8. YICS was removed last year. 9. Gas mileage is under 30 MPG. 10. Have spark on all cylinders. 11. Every once in a while running down the road it will stumble but come right back. Thank in advance for the advice
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