Jump to content

van avery

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    377
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by van avery

  1. Thanks for the suggestions. My bike does not have a chin. I cleaned the bottom of the engine this morning. Took for a ride. Still running at the high end. The Fan comes on as the bike hits the red on temperature gauge. Checked with non contact thermometer at the top of the radiator and got 210 F. Also checked bottom of the radiator was about 188 F. What Temp range should the engine normally run at? The owners manual show the fan coming on at 221F +/- 37F and then cutting off at 208F. So sound like I'm OK as the fan is coming on at the low end and the red line on Temp is starting at about 210F.
  2. Thanks for the update the prayers are still coming for a quick and full recovery.
  3. Must have been on the top of the water, waters too brown to see anything under water.
  4. Quick update, I adjusted the valves and 10 of them were too tight. Thanks to Perry for the loan of the shim kit. After adjustment the compression reading were #1 -195, #2 – 190 , #3 – 195, 4-180. Sure doesn’t need a ring job. Bike will now idle fairly consistently at 1000 to 1100 RPM. Much improved. Not doing the “belching back” on acceleration. It is running hot yet. Down the road it runs just below the red ( a little above ¾ of the green) but when waiting for a traffic light it eases up to the red line. Fan doesn’t come on until the temperature gauge is hitting the red. I pulled the radiator and had it cleaned, pulled the thermostat and tested and was fully open at around 190F. I pulled the cylinder side covers a pulled the small rubber plugs a flushed the motor then replaced the antifreeze. Yes, I turned the small valve in front to “on” while filling system and then cycled it while running to make sure the system was full then turned back to “off” to ride. Installed new Radiator cap, finished filling the overflow tank to the fill line. It is around 100 Deg out and I did leave the side covers off the bike while doing the test ride about 13 miles . Any idea what else to do? Should I install a fan bypass switch? Thanks again guy's for the help.
  5. Prayers sent for Tom and Robin and the rest of his family. Hope for full and quick recovery.
  6. If you get the AMG battery your battery condition warning light will be blinking since there is no place too put the probe into the battery. There is a fix it's detailed http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 . Buy the way the Delka battery fits the battery holder very well. Got mine from http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/motbat/18lbs.html
  7. I bought the DEKA AGM battery. Been happy ever since. I fought with my 83 venture not starting unless it wanted too. I had to keep the charger on it all the time to make sure it would start. I had replaced the battery cables, cleaned the connections replaced the voltage regulator, etc. . I had bought a Bike Master last year when I bought the bike just did not have the CCA to keep the bike starting w/o keeping the charger on it. After I installed the DELKA it has been great starts everytime and have not had to charge it. It was well worth the extra bucks.
  8. :bawling:We now morn the passing of your youth.
  9. Believe I'll cancel this maintenance day due Ponch having the accident. Gods speed to his complete and full recovery.
  10. Prayers are with Ponch and Cathy. Hope for quick and full recovery. Sheri is putting them on the church prayer list. Brad please let me know if there is anything I can do. Jerry and Sheri Van Avery
  11. Go ahead and say it before ya pop. Good call.
  12. Pulled the back valve cover and checked the valves on # 1 and #3. The intake valves on Number 3 are definately too tight. Have to adjust and hopefully things will get better.
  13. Kregerdoodle, enjoy the cool weather and bring some of it back with you. Might bring some rain back too. See ya next time.
  14. Congratulations and tell her thanks for her service.
  15. Needed to have valve adjustment on my 83 venture. Ponch is going to be kind enough to come down with equipment and supervise. Will start about 9 AM on Saturday 8-27-11. My address is : Jerry Van Avery 1255 CR 878B Sweeny Texas, 77480 Others are welcome to come buy watch/ learn and do other maintenece on they're bikes. Will plan to have Sloppy Joes for lunch and If you want to cool off the pool will be available. Might be able to have some Ice cream for desert. Let me know if you plan on coming to the country and if there is specific maintenance you need or plan to tackle. I do have motorcycle jack but not a stand.
  16. CONGRATULATIONS. It takes working together to make it happen like that. Hope you have many more.
  17. The mechanic said his results were that 1 and 3 had 180 PSI and 2 and 4 has 80 PSI. He noted that the plugs in 2 and 4 cylinders had an oily odor. He told me that the rings were bad. I’ve also noted slight oil on those plugs. Yesterday the compression test I did was with a cold engine and throttle closed. Forgot to mention earlier I cleaned the carbs last year and again this last month. I also replaced the diaphragms on the carbs. Anyway , this morning I started to redo the compression test and while warming up the bike noticed that the slider in #4 was not moving like the others so moved it to another carb and the problem moved. Finally found a small tear at the edge of the diaphragm and replaced it with another diaphragm and that seemed to help, the sliders all look like they are working together. The idle stumbles but at least now does not die after several stumbles. Also, when reving the engine then letting off looking down the throat noted small fire expelling in # 3 carb once in a while ( when it burps). Looks like maybe valve adjustment. I also put around 80 PSI on # 2 cylinder and could hear air coming from the carb, and a little from the oil filler. This evening I re ran the compression test hopefully correctly (warmed up engine, pulled all plugs, opened throttle completely ) and had the following readings: Opening the throttle made a big difference. 190 psi on 1 180 psi on 2 155 psi on 3 180 psi on 4 Looks like maybe valve adjustment. I’ll have to open covers and check clearances. Looks like #3 inlet valve is opening too early causing the burping in that cylinder and the fire in the throat. Haven't use my feeler gauges since I had a VW thing about 25 years ago. To answer a couple of questions. The oil level is not rising and I really don't smell a gas ordor in the oil. Thanks again for the input guy's, I'll let you know what I find. Might be a day or so before I get back to it.
  18. I have a ring problem with my 83 xvz12. Starting new thread on this. I put #2 cylinder at TDC and pressurized ( 5 to10 PSI) on that cylinder and could hear the air at the oil filler spout. Rechecked the compression on all cylinders and had 180psi on #1 , 80psi on #2, 150psi on #3 and 110psi on #4. By the time I buy new rings, gaskets, rework heads, check valve adjustment, etc.. It looks like I might be better to purchase used engine off Ebay and change out. I've spent too much time and hours on this bike to give up. The mechanic I had look at it recommended just keep riding it. It starts OK but when idleing will stumble several times and die and when under 3000RPM accelerating the engine belches several times. I've already replace plugs, wires and caps, new aftermarket TCI, replaced battery cables, repair brakes, new Deka battery, etc. Looking for some advice or really good deal on engine.
  19. Thanks guy's. Going to either buy or borrow a good compression tester. Then put cylinder at top dead center and put about 5 psi through the plug opening and listen for air at the carb, exhaust, and the oil filler. Need to make sure if its valves or rings. If it is the rings do you have to open the case disconnect the rod and push the piston out and connecting rod out, or can you rotate the motor and will the piston come up far enough pull the pin and pull the piston out and replace the rings?
  20. I did get the correct capacitor and installed it in the old TCI. The bike would not start with it. So I whet ahead and bought an aftermarket "Ignitech" TCI and installed with the plug and play program from Inteltech. The original TCI for the bike still works and the diodes were all good in it so did not replace them. As for your other questions: I checked the coils through the TCI plug with digital meter. And yep I have spark at all of the spark plugs. Thinking about it I have not checked them lately out of the bike but all the exhaust pipes are hot so pretty sure they are all working yet. Bike still dioes not run correctly. Hired a mobile bike mechanic rode the bike tried adjusting the carbs a little and then did a compression test and I have 180 PSI on both of the back cylinders but the front two only had 80 PSI. The front two spark plugs also had a oil odor to them. Said the rings were bad. He told me he probalby would not fix it if it was his but just run it. I'm thinking it needs to be fixed. He did not put any oil in the cylinders and recheck by he was sure that was the problem. Still burps and belches several times during acceleration till about 3000 to 3500 RPM's and when ideling will do fine for awhile then will stumble several times and then die if you don't rev it back up. Not sure yet what the repair cost for him to replace the rings on the front two cyliners as he was going to check materials cost first but figured it would be around $700 in labor alone. Thinking of tackleiing this myself. Need to do alittle more reading. Not sure I'm equipped to do all this with the valves, etc. Guess I'm looking for a little advice here from the group. Thank Again for the input. This is a great group and there is a wealth of information and advice.
  21. I used silicone instead of the gasket and had too problems. Have small oil leaks (two times) also the shifter did not work correctly. Had to move shifter back in to center position each time between shifts. Replaced with correct gasket and the problems went away. Good luck.
  22. Thanks guy's, I ordered the correct capaictor and now waiting on the mail system. The diodes in the TCI on the running bike all checked out OK. Figured I would complete the repairs on the TCI from the donor bike and see if it helps. Might have to give up on the original and upgrade to a new TCI. Thanks again and wish me luck.
  23. I pulled the TCI off my donor bike and installed it in the running bike and it ran . But not as well as the original TCI. So, I cut theTCI box and purchased the new diodes. and replaced them on the TCI from the donor bike. These were definately shot. Two of the diodes were completely disinigrated. While replacing the diodes, I noticed I also have a bad capacitor ( top of the attached picture). It's a 400V .047UF and the Radio Shack does not carry them. They do carry a 50V .047UF capacitor. Since this is a 12 VDC system will the 50V .047 uF work instead of the 400V .047uF Capacitor? Thank for any help.
  24. OK, been on vacation (still there) but before I left I pulled the TCI off my donor bike and installed it in the running bike and it ran . But not as well as the original TCI. So, I cut the box and purchased the new diodes and replaced them on the TCI from the donor bike. These were definately shot. Two of the diodes were completely disinigrated. While replacing the diodes, I noticed I also have a bad capacitor ( top of the attached picture). It's a 400V .047UF and the Radio Shack does not carry them. They do carry a 50V .047UF capacitor. Since this is a 12 VDC system will the 50V .047 uF work instead of the 400V .047 Capacitor? Thank for any help.
  25. Pulled the carbs this evening while removing them I checked the vacuum advance line and it had a couple of pin hole in it. I'll replace it. I only got one carb opened and cleaned this evening. But when I opened the float chamber noticed bunch of crud in the bottom of the chamber, amazing afer one year. The jets were still clear on this carb including the pilot jet. pulled and cleaned anyway. I did not open and clean the pilot screw last time. Did pull it this time and cleaned passage. I also opened the "coasting enrichment valve" and noticed a small rip in the rubber part of the diaphram, the "back up material" was still intact but looking at it with a bright light I could see pin holes. How critical is this valve? I'll try to steal one off donor bike if they are still good. This was the slider that was basically not moving when I rev'ed the motor.
×
×
  • Create New...