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Everything posted by MikeWa
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I think all of Yamaha's research money is going into a new baby grand. Mike
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Well, then that's what they should say. I am still not into the idea of 'earning' auto insurance. But if they are a square company thats great. Mike
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The one I hate the most is USAA. How the heck do you EARN your auto insurance in Viet Nam? Or pass it down to a family member when you die? Just a scam on patriotism. Mike
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Wow! Prayers sent for a speedy and complete recovery. Mike
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Explosive gases have some draw backs when used for automotive. Leaking into the passenger compartment and accidents to name two. R-12 and R-22 are very corrosive to the upper atmosphere and need to be, are being eliminated. In order for this to happen the cost of these refrigerants has to be high enough to get people to retrofit to R-134a and R-410. A few years ago R-12 was selling for well over $1000.00 for a 30 lb container. And it is no longer manufactured. The price has come down as demand dropped. Proof the plan is working. But it will go up again as supplies run out. So don't use R-12 or R-22. Change your system over. It is cheaper and better. Or just ride your bike. Mike
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Ratios are 3.33/1 vs 3.66/1 So it is not a major gear reduction. It just puts the v-4 engine closer to it's usable power band (think power to weight). The gear teeth are Venture 10 pinion - 33 ring, v-max 9 pinion - 33 ring. Since they both use a 33 tooth ring gear no changes in the speedometer were seen. After using the v-max gear for a while here is my experience. 'The Dyna module I purchased hasn't worked so all my riding is with the stock module. I hope to see some additional improvement when I get the Dyna issues resolved.' The bike really came to life when I made this change. Fifth gear is now very usable from under 40 mph up until I am scared to go any faster. The rev limiter is much easier to find when thrill riding. That is not just because of the 400 rpm increase but also because the engine gains speed faster. It just feels like it is still very happily winding out when the limiter hits. Oh darn. Cruising at 50 or 60 mph in fifth is now quite comfortable. The bike will accelerate smoothly without down shifting for most normal maneuvers. There is a short, very short, learning curve as you get used to the sound and feel of the engine. My fuel mileage actually improved slightly. Probably because a higher gear can be used at almost any speed. I now frequently cruise around town at 35 or 40 mph in fourth and sometimes fifth. 70 mph equates to 3500 rpm in fifth and the v-4 is very happy there. This is an engine that is still making torque and horsepower all the way past 6000 rpm. It would be quite happy cruising at 4500. The bike still makes 90 mph in third and 100+ mph in fourth. But now fifth has some power so I have not actually seen that loss of speed at the top end. Mostly because I am chicken to ride that fast, although I have had the speedo over 110 when passing. Traffic jams with stop and go traffic are easier because I can ride slower without clutching. The engine just works easier with the small increase in rpm. I have not been on an extended trip at 80+ mph since making the change. I have however run at 70+ for over three hundred miles at a stretch. And I can report the bike just feels great with plenty of power in fifth gear. And I have to say 3500 rpm in fifth (Vmax gear) is just as fuel efficient as 4000 rpm in fourth (Venture gear). I don't pull a trailer so I can't tell you how it is for that. Control is improved in the twisties no matter what gear you like to take them in. I think that's because the bike responds to the throttle better. Low speed cornering is also improved for the same reason. I am looking foreword to my next cross country trip. I am anxious to make a comparison at altitude with a heavy load etc. So instead of a bike with a four speed transmission and a seldom used overdrive I feel I now have a bike with a very usable five speed transmission. And I really like it. More torque on the bottom and more power on the top. More fun and improved fuel economy. For me this has been a good change. There is a very good article in the tech section by Freebird detailing the swap. If you are worried purchase a core from e-bay and send it in for the gear change. Once you have the modified pumpkin you can install it yourself or most shops can do it in under an hour and a half. Mike
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With out a doubt the best upgrade I have ever done. Mike
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Well.. if you decide to repair the gear with JB weld and reuse it be sure to let the epoxy set up at least 24 hours. Mike
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Very serious thread "What can we make this do on a Venture"
MikeWa replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
Well all I can say is if it goes on a motorcycle 'I want one'. Mike -
Brian I would like to order several of the patches. 3ea 3 1/2 inch; 2ea 5 3/4 inch; 1ea 7 inch; and 1ea 9 inch. Seven patches in all. Do you need a deposit? Thanks Mike
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I recommend you check your audio and backup fuses before taking the fairing apart again. Mike
- 11 replies
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- connection
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I love tire treads. Mike
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Is this the old battery or a new one? Charge the battery up and test the cells. a weak or bad cell can cause the problem you are describing. An alternate method is to charge the battery and disconnect it from the bike overnight. If it is low in the morning it is the battery. If not it is time for a parasitic draw test. Mike
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Yamaha training films. Mike
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backfire when throttleing down "05 venture
MikeWa replied to anzactm's topic in Poor Man Tips and Fixes
First sync the carbs. Second make sure there are no leaks where air can enter the exhaust. Third repair or remove the AIS. If it is the AIS system. Make sure both vacuum lines are connected. Determine which side is popping. Check the AIS hoses. Repair the air valve diaphragm. Or as some have done, remove the system. As a side note for those who are curious. During normal operation the AIS system allows the bike to siphon air into the exhaust. This causes excess emissions to be burned off in the exhaust. During deceleration extra fuel is available in the exhaust. So the AIS system turns off to avoid little mini explosions we call popping. High vacuum produced during deceleration is fed to the air valve diaphragm which overcomes spring pressure and closes the air passage to the exhaust. Mike -
A spray bottle with a mixture of dish washing liquid soap and water will quickly tell you if there is any concern. Spray a liberal dose on the affected area. If it bubbles a patch or some repair is in order. If it doesn't you are ok and shouldn't loose any sleep over it. Just my opinion and I'm sticking to it. Mike
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I have to agree with you. I switched to Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil and within a few miles I had a whine that became became a scream. It made riding very unpleasant. So I crossed my fingers and switched back. Within a couple of thousand miles the scream was gone. All that remains is a chirp that really doesn't bother me. I just hope I didn't do any long term damage. Mike
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Looking for oil leak solution.
MikeWa replied to wags8440's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I cannot tell where your leak is coming from with the information posted. Is the case cracked? How exactly is the oil getting out? JB Weld is pretty good stuff. The area must be cleaned and roughed up for a permanent bond. Aluminum can usually be welded, filed, ground and reshaped. Best of luck. Mike- 21 replies
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- 2nd generation
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Good questions. I checked the part number and I have the D3K7-5 which seems to be the right number. Also the three connectors fit and are in the right location. I will call Dynatek this week and get their response. Mike
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Well now. 'Do ya feel smarter today? Well do ya?' Than get out and ride your motorcycle. Mike:322:
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I put a Dyna 3000 in my bike just after Christmas. As soon as I did the tachometer went ballistic and started reading very high numbers. More than twice the actual rpm. Like 6900 rpm and erratic at 35mph in third. I don't think so. The bike idled rough and there was popping in the exhaust. Overall the bike just ran poorly. My tach is a simple unit with just a one lead pick up that wraps around a spark plug wire. Not much to go wrong. So my guess is the new Dyna ignition module was causing my ignition to misfire and multi fire. I revisited the settings on the Dyna and made sure the switches were set for 7200 rpm and advance curve 3. They were. I double checked the connectors. They were ok. But the problems persisted. So figuring I just got a bad unit I reinstalled the stock ignition module. Instantly cleared up the problems. The bike went back to her normal good running and the tachometer settled down to the correct reading. I called Dynatek and got a return authorization number. I sent the unit back with a note describing the problems and my phone number. Which they requested. After not hearing anything for a couple of weeks the unit showed up on my doorstep. Pretty good service so far. Opening the package their repair slip simply said "returning tested good". What does that mean? They didn't find a problem, didn't look for a problem, or it was ok after repairs. Well we finally got a couple days of decent weather. So I reinstalled the Dyna. I was hopeful because I am looking foreword to raising the rpm limit. But no go. The tach went ballistic again and there was popping in the exhaust. Since I don't want to burn holes in pistons I just took it back off and reinstalled my stock unit again. That answered the question about what they did to it. Nothing. I am sitting here getting ready to call Dynatek again. Any suggestions? Oh yea, I did a short video of the module install including the tach readings. Mike
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My 2008 Venture does not have that many miles on it but I have had clutch (engine) flair a couple of times now. Riding today confirmed it. When I first got this bike I spent a huge amount of time in parking lots making low speed turns etc. etc. Which means I did an inordinate amount of clutch slipping. I have installed the lower geared V-Max rear end. Which while that doesn't hurt the clutch in itself did change the way I ride. That might, just might mind you be a little harder on the clutch. I know it is harder on my breathing. I have also had the bike run on the dyno a couple of times. So I am not surprised I am getting a little slip (flair) here and there. Since I am planning a trip later this year I think clutch changing time has slipped up on me. So what do I need? It the Skydoc mod the best way to go? any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks Mike