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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    I'm interested in the chaps and have been searching but cannot find any sizing information. Would you mind doing some measurements to try to figure out (at least approximately) what they might work out to be. Min/Max waist, thigh and overall length ought to be enough information. Thanks!
  2. LilBeaver
    Who's that old guy she is going with, ! hope she has a good (and safe) time!
  3. LilBeaver
    Oh yeah, just in case I didn't mention it before: :witch_brew: :witch_brew: :witch_brew: I am pretty sure that you sent me a version of this before as well - around the time that someone had requested it in the other thread I believe. I really don't care, I just wanted to try to harass you a little bit and I think it worked. Now, back to my laboratory... mwa ha ha. (What you don't know is that I am really in a laboratory... working instead of riding )
  4. LilBeaver
    Wish I could afford to take the time and spend the money on this ride - What a trip that would be I enjoy long rides...
  5. LilBeaver
    I see how it is... The original thread was even YOURS! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56189 Looks great, very cool. Much nicer than what I had come up with, that is for sure.
  6. LilBeaver
    That would work. If it were me and I 1) had the time and 2) had it up on the lift already, I'd just pop that rear wheel off do the lube, check the adjustment and if it fixed it great if it didn't then take it in (and you would know that it is properly greased in there). Regardless though, I concur that it is something that the warranty should take care of, no question about it.
  7. LilBeaver
    Have you greased up the rear end pins - I forget what they are called, but I seem to remember the 'clicking/crunching' being associated with the 6 (or so) pins that go into the rear wheel from the differential. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=15576&postcount=1 Here check this out.
  8. LilBeaver
    They should just slide right off. The million dollar word is 'should'. The caliper bolts on my RSV are the hex head (allen key) ones, not to be confused with the 'standard' bolt type that hold the entire assembly together. You may need to open the bleed valve so that you can compress the pistons a little to work them off. Under normal operating conditions this step ought to be un-necessary but if you are sure you have the correct bolts out and that the calipers just won't budge, this would be my next step. After all, there are really only 2 things that would prevent the calipers from coming off and [in theory] you have already removed one of them [the bolts].
  9. LilBeaver
    When I first started riding this bike, especially since it doesn't have a tach, I made a point of counting. It did not take long for me to be able to correlate the sound of the engine to my speed and then know what gear I am in. So, I don't think I explicitly count anymore but I know what gear I am in when it counts. I don't know if that answers your question or not but that is what I 'do'.
  10. LilBeaver
    AWESOME NEWS Dave!!! Happy you've got it back! As for the not getting paid on a warranty thing or whatever, quite frankly that is THEIR problem NOT yours. HOWEVER, unfortunately sometimes that is all franchisees can do is pass the responsibility on to the customer. Especially on a 'big ticket' deal like this. Lots and lots of time went into your bike that could have been spent raking in the dough on ail changes and such... Regardless, YOU have the bike now, so that counts for something. Hopefully they did a nice job with everything and actually did what is listed on that long list of stuff. As for the loose battery cable - poor electrical connections can do ALL SORTS of fun stuff. So who the heck knows. Now keep all of your parts INSIDE the motor this time, eh?
  11. LilBeaver
    I see, too bad I don't have this problem on my RSV but thought that maybe it would help...
  12. LilBeaver
    Party in Conroe, eh? Call the pygmies!
  13. LilBeaver
    Have you considered putting a few vents in the windshield? That could possibly help break the vacuum that is developed from the turbulent air passing over and around the windshield. There are some round vents that are rather easy to install and on the order of ~15 a piece. That might be worth a go. See Post #5 in this thread http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59011
  14. LilBeaver
    Ha. Nice. :happy65:
  15. LilBeaver
    Meh - I'll stick with my 32LED Cluster - It was plug and done. The LED board was held in place by the lens housing screws and the wiring for the board just plugged right into the standard light bulb socket. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=493502&postcount=25
  16. LilBeaver
    My rear pads have been wearing evenly.
  17. LilBeaver
    I would say Anything less than ~12.4V or so for Idle and as an absolute minimum when running. I cannot say specifically for the 1st gen, but for what it is worth, the RSV service manual specifies that the measured voltage should be 13.6 or higher when turning 3000 RPM. I believe the specified range is 13.6-14.2 but it has been a while since I have looked. By the way, I hope that your charger has an automatic cut-off for when the battery is fully charged if you are actually leaving it on 2A for 24 hours! Also, what kind of voltmeter did you install [if it is analog there may be an offset in the 'printed' numbers vs the actual reading]? Have you 'calibrated' it by verifying the reading IT gives you with one done via a trusted voltmeter?
  18. LilBeaver
    That is a tough break or maybe I have just been lucky. I have only ordered a few things from them and each were as pictured/shown in their videos and functioned as they claimed they would. One was the handlebar radio controller and the other was the fuel sending unit. I really don't like to use them because of the shipping cost. Anyways, there may be less expensive sources than partshark or maybe even if you investigate the different years of bikes; that price was from the 2010. Also, is your bike still under warranty? If I recall correctly it is a US bike but you have it in Canada. I wonder if you'd be able to work something out with a dealer next time you head back to the states. Anyways, best of luck to ya!
  19. LilBeaver
    Yes, accessed from under the tank - When you flip the tank over you can't miss it. Yes, 4 small screws and it all comes out that tiny little hole. I found it a bit tricky to get it out though, it took A LOT of rotating and finagling; but be gentle and take your time you will eventually find the proper orientation. It really is that simple. This seems reasonable. I picked mine up from Pinwall for $10+ S&H (which I think was around 12). New through partshark: $78.81+S&H, Yamaha OEM P/N 1D6-85752-00-00
  20. LilBeaver
    Oh boy. Sorry to hear that. Hopefully they'll shake off all of those pygmies before they get it back to you... I guess the upside is that it has been covered under warranty, eh? / Sent from my pooter using my fingers and keyboard
  21. LilBeaver
    Oh boy, WHAT a find! It really did pain me to have to drop the extra moolah at the stealer for these when I rebuilt my calipers. I have been dreading having to do it again when I rebuild my front master cylinder and replace my lines... Good stuff. What a group we have here!
  22. LilBeaver
    To be quite honest with you, it sounds to me like you have something wrong with your wires, headset or intercom system. I have had similar issues with mine - here is a quick summary. Excess noise in the headsets was solved by: 1) ensuring that the mic and windsock for mic were appropriately oriented, installed and very close (touching) my mouth when trying to communicate 2) re-arranging and shielding the audio wires that run under the gas tank to avoid the ignition coil wires (ie the E&M interference) Issue with very low sound/volume was solved by replacing the patch cables. I determined they were bad and J&M replaced them under warranty. My first set of replacements were incredible. I couldn't believe how well I could hear the passenger. Additionally the quality of the music was MUCH better through the headsets too (although I very rarely do that anyways). My IC is set anywhere from 8 to 14 depending on how good the particular passenger is at keeping the mic positioned appropriately. at 13 and above I do notice a bit more excess noise (I believe it to be almost exclusively wind noise, with a hint of other bike related noises mixed in) but if I run with it at 12 or below the noise through the headset is no worse than the ambient noise that would other wise be there (with the audio system off). For what it is worth, I have the 'el chepo'/entry level J&M HS-8154B-OF in both of my open face helmets. If we were closer I'd say lets switch bikes and give-er a try to see if it is YOUR audio system or your headsets; maybe you can do that with someone nearby you.
  23. LilBeaver
    So are you still bikeless or what?
  24. LilBeaver
    The fuel sending unit is really (in my opinion) the only part that could be causing this behavior. It is easy enough to remove, clean, inspect and reinstall it even though it does require that you completely drain your tank. It may be worth while to pull it out and take a look to see what may have collected on it and clean the varnished fuel off of it while you are there. ALSO, take that opportunity to take a really good look inside your tank to see if you've got some extra debris floating around. Not that it would directly affect the fuel gauge/sending unit but you may as well check your vent hose while you are there; make sure that it is not obstructed anywhere. Now, the fluctuations in the gauge while dealing with extended leans and such is not surprising, but the delay in showing 'full bars' after a fill up could possibly be related to something in the fuel affecting the buoyancy of the float on the sending unit. I sort of doubt this, but I wouldn't rule it out entirely. Just a few thoughts.
  25. LilBeaver
    That makes a lot of sense. Glad you got it figured out!
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