LilBeaver

HAHA, Crazy how plugging the audio IN made such a difference. Who'd duh thunk?!?

Maybe my RSV is special but my rear caliper has 4 pistons in it (two inside and two outside) where my FRONT calipers are the ones with the 'floating' design (and only 2 pistons). For what it is worth, I have been through 3 sets of rear pads now and they all have worn quite evenly. My last one was darn near perfect. Regardless, keeping a regular check on those puppies is ALWAYS a good idea. As to why some wear unevenly - I have some guesses but no objective tests on them so I'll keep my yapper shut until I get something more definitive. EDIT: http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1345200&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2010&fveh=37804 Here is the fiche for a rear caliper

Glad it was something simple!

How the heck do we do that in Texas?

Hmmmm, if this were a valve check/adjustment day, I'd be there for sure! :stickpoke: Although I sure would like to check my floats and clean the carbs as I am sure I am due for it...

Fully loaded I'll go 41/40 (F/R), no question. When it is just puttering around I have found that anything lower than 36 on the front doesn't 'feel right' (for me) but I like to keep it above 37 for normal use. As for the rear and puttering around I'll do anywhere between 38 and 40 in the rear. I tend to do closer to 38 when checking it in my garage in the summer as my garage is typically 20-40 degrees cooler than outside. Lately I have just been maintaining the 41/40 and am happy with the ride.

Flyinfool addressed everything quite well. I'll go ahead and add my :2cents: in a few places as well (although I agree with him 100%). First of all the 3 wire stator plug may not be white. This picture shows it black: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=306892&postcount=5 I cannot seem to find the pictures I took of mine (but I swear mine was white). It is right in front of the battery compartment and quite low in the bike. You will have to take off the three covers (I remembered incorrectly when I had initially written that you wouldn't have to remove anything). The AC Voltage showing up is a clear indicator that your R/R is not functioning properly. The purpose of the R/R unit is to 'convert' the alternating current (AC) that comes out of the stator to a direct current (DC) as well as shunt any unnecessary electricity generated by the stator. There are two main components to the R/R unit the 'regulator' portion (controls the power 'allowed' through) and the 'rectifier' (AC to DC) portion. It is entirely possible for either of the components to fail independently of each other or both fail at the same time. While the rock steady 12.49V is not likely from the R/R unit, it is still entirely possible that it is. I cannot think of a single instance outside of a bad R/R and maybe (this is a big stretch) some sort of short to ground between the stator and the R/R that would cause AC to show up at the battery terminals. So that, in my opinion, is quite conclusive that your R/R has bit the dust. Incidentally, it would be strongly advised to NOT start your bike again until you get that sucka fixed. It is entirely possible that your stator has also gone bad too; the resistance test will show that conclusively. As for your tach being hard wired to the stator, this is conceivable but I suspect rather unlikely. I suspect that you probably have it hooked up to one of the ignition coils rather than the main feed between the stator and R/R. Regardless, you really need to get that resistance measurement (OR do an AC voltage measurement AT the 3 pin connector). If you decide to go the route of the AC measurement, you should measure something like 4 to 8 V (AC) between any of the 3 terminals. I find the resistance test much easier to do, mainly because you don't have to slide your hands around the hot exhaust pipes and whatnot. In inspecting the fuse boxes, make sure you also check where the main wiring feeds into the boxes. The main 30A fuse is located behind the plastic plate that is right next to where the passenger's left ankle would be. All in all, while I hate to say it, it sounds like your R/R definitely needs to be replaced. At this point we don't have enough information to know for sure if your stator is bad or not, but that resistance test will confirm one way or the other. I've got to run to a meeting, I hope I didn't forget anything... Best of luck to you!

So do you call this 'quality control of network resources'?

Oh boy. Looks like a bundle of fun. Glad to hear that things still rolling along for you! Hope all goes well with the surgery and whatnot!

Some options (I have no affiliation with these folks, nor have I ever used their products - just throwing it out there for you): http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/ *Content removed by me*

Partshark.com $57.50 USD, shipping is extra. P/N 4XY-81960-00-00 **Double check this P/N. To answer your OTHER question, if you go with a high-output stator, you really should get the appropriate/matching R/R unit too. Edit: The short explanation is if you do not have a matching R/R you will eventually burn out your OEM one as it is not designed to handle the higher output that your fancy-pants new stator will put out.

There are three copies of Ride Like a Pro (RLAP) IV or V DVD's that are free for anybody who wants it for FREE so long as they agree to: 1) NOT copy it and 2) Pass it along for FREE to the next person after a short viewing session ie. ~1 week. The sender pays the postage, NOT the recipient, so no money changes hands. NOTE: By requesting to be added to the list you are agreeing to the above simple rules. If you have a problem with this please do not request to be put on the list. To request to be added or removed to/from the list: Simply post in this thread that you would like to be added or removed and I will take care of it upon my next visit to the thread. Please DO NOT PM me your request to be added or removed as you will only be put on the list if you post to this thread - this way there is a clear and unambiguous record of where you ought to go on the list. If you have requested to be added and you were not: Please forgive my mistake and simply let me know (a PM for this is fine) and I will add you to the list in the order of which the requests were put in with respect to the content in the thread. One of kitesquid's initial requests were to post something you learned from the video; let's try to keep doing that Some of Kitesquid's original text: "... I am not connected with RLAP, I just want my fellow bikers to have a long and healthy life on two wheels and anyway that we all can learn to ride safely is a good thing!!!!!! By the way, if you are tired of waiting, or would like to purchase your own copy please click HERE to order and be sure to ask for your Venture Rider Forum member discount. IIRC it saves you $5. BTW this DVD is worth every penny!!!!!!!..." The List: People who originally, freely gave away their copy of RLAP IV or V (Thanks a lot you guys!!): KiteSquid, Friesman1, jburrell :clap2: Info on Location of DVDs: Copy #1: Bubber -> Jmorrison -> Burgymon --> ????? Last known 28/Nov/09: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=411893&postcount=289 SENT to BurgyMon Copy #2: indianriverjack -- Belpre OH ** Contacting 1sttenor & Condor***** This one has the path: Lilbeaver -> VegasVic -> TimGray --> Kregerdoodle -> Reed --> Indianriverjack --> 1sttenor --> Freebird Copy #3 (Thanks to the time and effort put in by 'Semi-Retired') Spear -> Spankym (Craig M. - Buffalo) [rec. 28/apr/09]; instructed to send to r12guy on 7/May/09; reported as Sent to r12guy 18/May/2009 --> 19/May/09 instructed r12guy to send copy to "Annie in Rockinham, Perth Australia" No further info. Either "R12guy" or "Annie_In rockingham, Perth Austrailia" has/had this *** 27/Apr/11: E-mail sent to R12guy, awaiting response. ------ Canada camos – Saanichton, BC Semi-Retired - St. Catherines, Ontario Mover - Stratford, Ontario Ottawa () - Ottawa, Ontario Trader - North of Kingston, Ontario United States Condor in Carmichael Ca fixit3546 in Mechanicsburg (Bentonia) MS RandyR in Dahlonega GA GaThumper in Cleveland GA Blackjack in Snellville GA Black Owl in Apple Valley MN eusa1 in Dixon IL Larry M – Pullman WA MidlifeVenture – Twinsburg, OH 67mini67 – Cheney, WA Hunter_1500 – Ferrisburgh, VT Little Bob – Steven’s Point, WI camos – Saanichton, BC Motorcycle Mike – Lawrenceville, GA midnite – Mc Kenzie, TN (last visit 24/March/11: Still supporting member) Donde - Rockport, TX (Last visit 26/Dec/10 - Still supporting member) nbowersock - North Ft. Worth, TX Travelin Man (formerly: Crazy_Frog) - McRae, GA SylWoody - Talladega, AL Gdlover - Newton, IA Dave3 - Fayetteville, GA Slick97spirit (Ken) - Jackson, MO Semi-Retired (Mike) - St. Catherines, Ontario TopV (Joe) - Fall River, MA Mover - Stratford, Ontario Scooter45 (Jim) - Redwood Falls, MN Nemo (Owen) - Council Bluffs, IA The Black Pearl (Anthony) - Traverse City, MI Short-haul (Daniel) - River Oaks, TX T hole (John) - North Liberty, IA Ottawa (Ryan) - Ottawa, Ontario in flagrante () - Rocket City, AL (Trial Member?) ccpeso (Dennis) - South Lyon, MI rjalamo/1JoeRanger (Ray) - Destin, FL Alybyzee (Alby) - Manahawkin, NJ For the efficient passage of the video how please do the following: 1) Upon receipt of the video, post that you have received it. 2) Initiate communication with the next person on the list (which ought to be included with the video and I will do my best to keep the list updated on here too) **Maybe contact the next 2 or 3 at a time, with the understanding that the list order will be maintained, just in case the first one does not respond 3) Communication with the next person on the list ought to be done via e-mail, PM or telephone call (based on whatever you are comfortable with and what is available in the person's profile). 4) Let us allow 1 week for the person next on the list to respond (which is why initiating the communication immediately would be advised or contacting 2 or 3 at a time would be efficient). 5) If no response, move to the next person on the list. 6) When a response is confirmed, post the results so we know where they are at. 7) After viewing the video, post something you learned from it (as per KiteSquid's request) 8) Post WHEN sent to the next person - also report the screen-name of the individual sent to. MOST IMPORTANTLY, as always: 9) Ride safe **** Sample message to next person ****: Howdy: I have received a copy of "Ride Like a Pro" and you are the next on the list to receive it. (According to the list on: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24973&page=22 ) Please respond as to whether or not you are still interested in viewing the video. I will wait one week before I contact the next person on the list. If someone else commits to it before you do (after the 1 week time has expired) then you will not lose your place on the list, but may not get the video from me ~depending on whether I still have it or not. Just post in the thread (linked to above) that you would still like to view it and you can be next in line to get a copy. If you do want it, send me the address that you would like it sent to and I will send it first class mail after I am finished with it. If you do not want it, please post on the original thread so that you name can be removed from the list. Thanks a lot, - YOUR NAME HERE ****END sample message**** Thanks ya'll

At least on a bike the likelyhood of his choice severely harming someone else is pretty slim.

Okay, from the sounds of it - you are probably fine in assuming that your result is simply as posted (one final repeat wouldn't hurt though). The next step is really the simple resistance test of the stator coils. I'll stay tuned.

Thanks Don. PM sent. Sorry about the delay - I have been away on business for a total of ~3 weeks. phew!

Dang!! I would have jumped on that too!

Sounds like you've got a good visit lined up! Ha, YOU would. I sure would appreciate it if you would send some of that down here too. On second thought, maybe that is a sign suggesting I should migrate to the cooler weather... Hmmm

Okay, with that additional information I'll make a few more comments. 1) If you had been getting ~13.4V at idle and you are now somewhere in the 12's then that is a good sign that there is a problem. (as you noted). 2) I am unsure, based on your above statement, but I would like to clarify just to make sure that the test is done properly. When you perform the voltage measurement at the higher revvs, you should rev the bike up and HOLD IT there to get a decent reading. Count to 5 or something and watch your voltmeter. Revving it intermittently and not seeing a change (on a digital voltmeter) is actually somewhat inconclusive as the delay for the reading to be displayed may actually be masked by the change in the measured signal. It IS certainly, entirely possible, that you are simply maxing out at that 12.5V or whatever which then goes back to it being an issue with the regulator/rectifier or the stator (or a bad ground). At this point, repeating the high rev (at a steady high rpm) voltage check as well as the resistance of the stator coils certainly ought to help pin down the problem. The fact that your visual inspection of the R/R pins and that the connection 'feels' solid is enough to reasonably assume that your CONNECTION there is fine. Once again going back to the R/R unit itself, stator or poor connection to ground. ****NOTE: The location of the ground that I specified up by the ignition switch MAY be in a different place on the RSTD. When writing what I wrote above, I had a brain fart and forgot that you said you have a RSTD.

$165 - you are getting RIPPED. I got ripped when I ordered mine and it was far less than 165. That was partially because I had it overnighted and footed the 40 or 50 dollars for the expedited shipping. There sort-of is - I will need to try to find it, but I wrote something up on this a while ago because I went through mine and tried to figure it out. The EASIEST way is to do the revved voltage check (rev to 5k RPM and check - should read 13.8 to 14.2V) and also check for any evidence of an AC signal at the battery cables. The AC signal can only be produced by a bad regulator/rectifier or, much less likely, some weird short in the system between the stator and the regulator/rectifier. The bench test for the RR unit that I have come up with checks the functionality of the diodes within but I cannot say that it is all that conclusive otherwise. I'll try to find that write up and get back to you (it may be later this evening though as if I didn't post my write up it is likely on my other computer).

I am no expert but a while ago, I too played this game so maybe I can be of some help. Lots of good ideas so far and I am just going to sort of type as I think through this so I may repeat some of the ideas/suggestions above but I will try to be very complete as well. First and foremost if you did not start these tests with a fully charged battery, your results (as presented) are mostly inconclusive. A few of the numbers stick out. 1) You claim no voltage difference between 'idling' and when the motor is 'revved'. This IS a problem - UNLESS you didn't rev it very much. On the RSV, (which I believe the 05 and later RSTDs are more or less identical except for some of the cosmetics) the motor needs to be turning at least 5000 RPM or so to give the meaningful reading. Turning at 5k RPM a properly functioning system should read a [terminal] voltage (measured at the leads on the battery) somewhere between 13.6V and 14.2V. This should actually be more or less independent of the charge state of your battery. 2) Condor already mentioned (and you already addressed) the no drop when cranking, so no further comment is necessary. Your 'lack of power' situation was repeated, which does strongly suggest a real problem with the charging system. Off the top of my head I can only come up with a few likely culprits (in no particular order): 1) Bad stator 2) Improperly functioning rectifier/regulator 3) Poor connection to ground 4) Bad/issue with battery In order to help pinpoint your problem the following checks would be quite helpful, again in no particular order: 1) Change out the battery with a fresh and fully charged one (You have already done this, obviously, and the problem still persists - which either you got a 'dud' replacement [unlikely, but possible] or the problem still remains) 2) Check the resistance of the stator coils. This is done via the 'white' connector plug located in front of the battery box and fuel filter about halfway down the frame. I was able to see mine after flushing the wiring out with electrical cleaner. It was a bit of a pain to get to, but I could reach it without removing any parts (On second thought I may have had the three 'battery covers' already off and out of the way for this). The resistance should be somewhere between 0.279 and 0.341 OHms (when the ambient temperature is near 70F). 3) Inspect the connector plug for the regulator/rectifier unit and make sure that the pins make a firm connection in the female side of the plug. Some have found (me included) that the connection is very loose and thereby causes some problems with the unit actually functioning properly. Just because you do not see any evidence of 'burnt connectors' or any discoloration does not necessarily mean that the connection is good (unfortunately). You should feel a 'firm' connection between the male and female ends of the harness. 4) Inspect the main grounds (down by the horn, under the front plastic 'collar' on the brake side of the bike just below the ignition switch ***MAY be different on the RSTD) to the bike as well as the main connections at the fuse boxes (ESPECIALLY the main 30A fuse). Make sure all of the connections are CLEAN and reasonably sung. 5) You could also do a check for any trace of AC voltage across the battery terminals; this would definitely indicate that you've got a problem with the regulator/rectifier unit. 6) repeat your voltage measurements ensuring that you start with a fully charged battery and that your 'rev test' involves revving the motor to at least 5k RPM. The most critical (and easiest) to do to be reasonably conclusive is numbers 2, 5 and 6. Although important, a little more difficult would be number 3 and 4. If you do at least 2, 5 and 6 and report back with your findings we can help confirm your problem from there. Best of luck to you, I hope this was helpful.

+1 for the flat blacking them. I've seen this on one RSV and it looked great and seemed to work well. The other plus to that is that it is cheap and easy. Two things I like in a wom... I mean two things I like in a 'fix'.

Sounds like a good ride! By the way, I just might know someone who would have been perfectly willing to give either of them a decent ride when he was up there... I'm just sayin

I just saw this. Thoughts and prayers continue to be sent for you, your family and close friends. Hope all continues to work out in your favor. Gdspeed.

Thanks for rubbing it in... show off.