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VentureProf

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Everything posted by VentureProf

  1. VentureProf
    Many True-Value hardware stores have a good selection of stainless steel button-head bolts in metric. I've put a few on my '99. Kelly
  2. VentureProf
    I've been running the leveling links and a Works Performance shock for three seasons now. No issues. Bike handles great - as you know the Works shock is a high performance shock that is custom set for you based on information you provide (for spring rates, valving, etc). Great combination. So much so that I've not gone to the smaller front tire. I don't want to risk giving up stability at highway speeds that some have mentioned with the smaller diameter front tire. kelly
  3. VentureProf
    Interesting thread as my ME880's are getting ready to be changed out. Mostly one-up riding, ran front at about 40 psi, rear about 48 psi. Both manufactured in Germany. Current mileage is 17,500 miles. No cracks, chunking, bulges. Remaining tread on the back suggests I'll be changing them in the fall. I had assumed that I'd change to Elite 3's, but now I'm interested in the new ME880. Just wish I could get WWW's for this bike without going to the smaller front tire. Kelly
  4. VentureProf
    I also dumped the RK muffs in favor of the stock muffs. On a long trip that sound wears you down. I grew up with Harleys - parent's rode full-dressers in the '50's and 60's. The sound of that Harley V-twin is imprinted on me. Maybe that's why, at least to me, putting louder pipes on my Yamaha V-4 just seems to scream "I wanna be a Harley" especially to Harley riders (especially since the 2nd Gen design borrowed so much from Harley's full-dresser). I have no problem with whatever muffs other Venture owners install.
  5. VentureProf
    I have a Works-Perf shock and it is difficult to adjust the spring pre-load since it involves changing the compression on the spring via a collar that you turn. I've done it with the bike on its center-stand (DiamondR) using lots of lubricant. But, it is so much of a pain to do that I just set it where it feels good for two-up touring and haven't touched it since (3 years). I've always wondered how many failed shocks are due to the loss of air adjustability (seal/oil in the outer air chamber) versus the more serious failure of the actual shock absorber (the nitrogen-filled sealed shock chamber that provides the needed viscous damping of the sprung load). More people seem to have changed their shock because of shock moaning (loss of lubrication between the seal and moving surface of the preload chamber), loss of air preload, leaking of the air chamber oil, rather than because the rear-end started bouncing. Seems like the critical part for damping the bike's sprung load remains intact. Still, loss of pre-load adjustment is bad because this springiness of the air chamber adds to the total stiffness of the actual spring, and so you bottom out on bumps unless you are a real flyweight riding solo. Kelly
  6. VentureProf
    I love that color. Wanna trade?
  7. VentureProf
    Also, a spiral saw with a laminate cutter bit works great although it can run wild on you if you are not careful. That's what I used to cut my shield for a GW vent. Very clean cut. Kelly
  8. VentureProf
    Yes, got 'em on my RSV. Like 'em.
  9. VentureProf
    I agree that a properly running RSV should have no trouble holding 75 mph in 5th, even 2-up and pulling a trailer. 75 mph in 5th is at a pretty strong region of the torque/rpm curve. Any headwind that forces you into 4th at 75 mph is a beast I don't want to experience! Kelly
  10. VentureProf
    Congrats from another rider in eastern Iowa. I'll keep my eyes open for you when the weather warms and the rains clean the salt from the roads. Better yet, might be time for an eastern Iowa meet 'n greet - if I can find a weekend without one of my teenagers playing sports! If you want I'll bring my Carbtune and we can check the synch on your carbs. Heck of a deal on that '01, but buy some earplugs - I rode mine with Sampsons for about 2 weeks - couldn't take it anymore :>) Kelly http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/kjcole/Bikelights008-1-2.jpg
  11. VentureProf
    Hope to see you around eastern Iowa. Better yet, let's plan a ride after the snow melts and the rains wash away the salt. BTW There's a super nice '03 midnight on the Venturers website for a smidgeon less money (no trailer but a bike with ton's of extras and that I can vouch for re: care). It's in the members area, so if you are interested and you are not a member, I can put you in touch. I have no connections to this other than I know the owner and I know that the bike is outstanding in every way (27K miles). The only catch is that the bike is in eastern New Mexico. It's just an absolutely super deal for a babied RSV, otherwise I wouldn't mention it here. Kelly
  12. VentureProf
    Not a big deal to buy the Goldwing vent and install it in the stock shield - you don't even have to take the shield off the bike if you are careful. I fashioned a template by tracing the vent and then cut the shield with a laminate bit on a spiral saw (Zip). A little cleanup work with a file and a Dremel and the vent popped right in. Love that vent on a hot day, and it also takes a little airpressure off the shield which helps reduce wind inputs to the steering just a little. Highly recommended. Kelly
  13. VentureProf
    I put two Rivco electric horns attached to the lower mounting bolts of the two air boxes. Left all the others attached and working. Works great, looks stock. Kelly
  14. VentureProf
    stuff I learned from the AVA website Hydraulic valves - CB module mounts inside a saddlebag - hmmm:(
  15. VentureProf
    The vibration should be tracked down - that's not right. If it is more of a buzzing in the floorboards, then suspect carb synch. Otherwise, start diagnosing.
  16. VentureProf
    Float level set wrong, letting the bowl fill too much?? Kelly
  17. VentureProf
    Yes, you can program the route you want. Best done on a computer using the software that comes with the Quest and then download the route to the Quest. For the money, get the Quest2 because it holds the maps for North America. Otherwise you have to load up the maps you think you'll need, which is slow and requires a computer. I've enjoyed the Quest and we've gotten a lot of use out of it in the car. A refurb Quest2 might be the best deal for a dual powered (battery, and external power), waterproof, GPS that can handle the rigors of motorcycle travel. Can't go wrong for Kelly
  18. VentureProf
    Diamond R makes one also, but it doesn't lift the rear. I have one and really only use it on level concrete when I'm checking/changing oil, etc. Kelly
  19. VentureProf
    We're living in a golden age of touring bikes. Plenty to choose from, and with different approaches across the manufacturers. Really, there isn't a bad one in the bunch - you just have to find the one that fits you and your budget, and one that trips your trigger. Kawasaki has added a nice one that I'm sure will fit many. As for me, my '99 RSV is just getting broken in, I have it outfitted just the way I want it, and it is still shiny. While not a perfect bike, everytime I ride it reassures me that it is a quality built, comfy tourer, with a reliable drive-train. And I own it outright. The 3rd gen Venture is not far off, and will be another home-run by Yamaha, given their history with the tour-bike concept. But I'll probably stay with my RSV ('cause I've got 3 kids headed to college during the next 5 years!) Kelly
  20. VentureProf
    Dabimf's post is pretty much definitive. Nice summary of the facts. Kelly
  21. VentureProf
    Crack the bleeder screw on the caliper so you are not fighting hydraulic pressure (besides, you want new fluid in there anyway). As suggested, clean the outside of the pistons with something like brake cleaner etc -- you don't want to force the crud that accumulates there past the seals as you push the pistons in. I don't push the pistons in until they are clean and shiny. Kelly
  22. VentureProf
    There's been a lot of discussion of these cracks, and those who have pulled the boots find that the cracks don't extend all the way through (so they are not a source of air). Those boots are pretty thick. Unless your bike starts running poorly, I wouldn't worry about them. Kelly
  23. VentureProf
    It is a medium pain, but I've changed the bulb a few times without splitting the fairing. My hands aren't huge, but I wear a L to XL glove so not small either. Pulling the headlight adjustment knob is the key, along with patience. Many of us have done it so it is by no means an impossible job. With that said, once you've split the fairing a few times it becomes a pretty easy job. So, if you haven't done it yet, I'd split the fairing just for the experience. Eventually you will need to, so just jump in and do it. Kelly
  24. VentureProf
    I gave up on the stock horns 3 years ago (even though they still 'worked') and mounted electric Rivco's (keeping the stock horns in place). Mounted the chrome plastic Rivco's using the lower mounting bolt for the airboxes at the lower fairing (they tuck up just above and forward of your feet), and ran the needed wiring/relays etc. These are loud, protected from rain and road crud, and look great in that location. Couldn't be happier. Kelly
  25. VentureProf
    Fixed the left side tab on my '99 with ABS cement and ABS pipe shavings. Worked great. The left side lower fairing (middle tab) is subject to anything in your fuel that comes out the overflow/breather hose for the carbs, maybe because of the lean angle when parked. There doesn't have to be much, just a mist, if you are running any fuel additives that affect paint/plastic. My right side hose is always bone dry, the left yields just the slightest mist. Kelly
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