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Marcarl

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Everything posted by Marcarl

  1. Now if that was a '56 Monarch, I'd be downright jealous, maybe even a bit more than jealous, but, hey it's not, so I'm just happy for him,,, nice lookin' buggy!!!!
  2. That would be the swing arm bearings,,, I think????
  3. Looks like I found us another good vendor. I ordered 2 baron style lenses, cost:$2.95 each plus shipping for a total of $11.90. I did this on April 21 2012. Order received today, no additional shipping, nothing extra but then I noticed on the shipping envelope that the cost of shipping came to $12.90. Now it cost them more to ship those 2 little lenses than what I paid for the whole issue. Yes,,, it took a while, about 4 weeks,,,, I'm not surprised, they're getting harder to find. Thanks goes out to: Outdoors in Motion, Rutland VT http://www.outdoors-in-motion.com/index.htm
  4. I think he's trying to find easier ways to keep up with a certain 85, maybe a slower curve WILL help out, ya think?
  5. Sure,,, thanks for stopping by,,, no wonder we didn't see you.
  6. Snake the stack and use a light to see what you can see. maybe drop a light into the stack.
  7. Can I come tooo??????? I might be ready to go somewhere after having to put up with what's his name all night!
  8. I would think fuel filter, or air filter, or a pinched fuel line. After that I would suspect dirty carbs, but I would do all the others first.
  9. I have mine set at between 11 1\4 and 11 1\2. That makes them pretty much square to each other. My bars are turned down about as low as they can comfortably get without hitting the tank. I'm 5'10" with a 32" inseam and no butt to speak of. I know, I just set myself up for some good comments, so let's stick to the subject so we can help this guy out and me out of it. ya I know,,,, I just did it again.
  10. Don't got telling Yammer Dan about your building expertise.
  11. If you want mine, call: five one nine, seven five four, five seven two one.
  12. That would do it. The spacer the manual speaks of is the brake caliper bracket and the washer goes between the wheel and the brake bracket. This leaves a space between the bracket and the swing arm,,, but that's the way it is.
  13. The quick reply is just plain luck, or maybe I want to get rid of you fast,,,,, nah, just want to help best I can, and I know that once we get going on something, it's frustrating to have to wait. The left side of the bike is the clutch handle side, and the T has the shorter hose on the bottom, that's the end closer to the engine,,, so the top would then be closer to the air-box. The hose coming from the T should lead to a pipe on the left front corner of the air-box. Hope this helps.
  14. Maybe you could tell us why you think you need new carbs,,,, we might be able to save you the carb costs and a lot of aggravation,,,, f o r,,,,,,, unless they are brand new in a box, you might be jumping from the frying pan into the fire.
  15. I've not had that problem,, maybe because I drilled out the rear baffles and blew everything out,,,,, so I suppose maybe I lost my marbles.
  16. Squeeze them back with a large set of Plumbers pliers or maybe a c-clamp. No need to open anything except the reservoir lid so that in case you push back more fluid than what it can hold, it can now overflow. Make sure you put a catch all under the reservoir. Meantime, check the condition of the fluid, if it looks cloudy or dirty, it's time for a change.
  17. There is a rubber tube coming from the middle of the air box down to the engine. Part way down there is a T and then it continues on. This tube is the supply line for the PCV set up. Off the T another hose runs to the left front corner of the air-box,,, this one is for the air-box overflow, just in case you put too much oil in the crankcase and it fills the air-box, it then gets sucked back into the engine to get burned off.
  18. They seem to be legal, I have them on mine, dealer installed, just make sure you clean with contact cleaner before sticky.
  19. It is good to have this bar level, and smooth, so no threads and clean, so no rust to stop the rotation of the tire. Usually you spin the tire, mark the bottom when it stops, then spin it again, that way you can be assured the tire is spinning freely, if the mark is at the bottom both times. Also, if you spin it forward the first time, spin it backwards the second time. The amount of weight you add is your guess, so to confirm you have it right, test it again, and then do the math as to how much more you need to add or take off. Now if you are going to take something off, make sure first that the neighbors aren't looking or you might have to spend some time in resuscitation. And yes,, you should balance it, otherwise you won't be happy at all.
  20. As far as the master is concerned, you have to make sure everything is absolutely without any dirt, totally clean and this also means the reservoir and the connection hose. For the caliper, as important as it is, and as important that everything is in proper shape, a lot of the times the seals can be used again. This means that during removal you haven't scored them and that the cylinder, (not the piston) has no imperfections that had to be fixed. In other words, if the cylinder, (or the bore), is clean and smooth upon first inspection, there is no real reason for the seals to be adversely affected. For seals I would go see my local Yammi dealer.
  21. A lot of things come to mind,,,, but I type slow and I have other things to do.
  22. You sure you can handle this all by yourself? sure you don't need any help for directions, or helping out with the meals or such?
  23. Is there going to be ICE-CREAM?????????? Does Amy know how old you REALLY are? Happy birthday olde boy, hope you can enjoy a whole bunch more!
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