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Showing results for tags 'key'.
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Having increasingly more difficulty turning the key and starting the bike. 86 Royale. I do know one night I saw the switch arcing to my keys on the key chain. Any way does any one have an ignition/(main switch)#1NL-82501-01-00 with key They could part with.
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went to plug in my led taight light. took out the old bulb, plugged in new board. turned the key and, no headlight , no brake light. no taillight,, I have flashers, turn signals, what the hell happened.
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Here’s my question. Why have a relay for the driving (passing lights). My front fairing is still apart and I can change my wiring easily. I bought the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder switch and have the hot connected to the Red wire with yellow strip (power on all the time when key is turned on). One of the switch wires I connected to the driving lights. The hot wire to the switch has a 30 amp fuse and the wire going to the lights has a 10 amp fuse. There is power to the switch when I turn the key on and I can toggle the driving lights on and off with the switch. If I ever forget to turn them off, the power is cut as soon as I turn the key off. I don’t know a lot about electrical draw and amps, but was just wondering why I needed to put in a relay. Other than the fuse being in the fairing, is there any problems with the way I hooked it up? Thanks Melvin -
Ya'll know me, and how I can't pass up a good buy. I ran across this auction with a '93 Verago that looks like it's in decent shape. Problem is it doesn't run due to no key. I think it was reposed?? Getting a new key cut and battery is not a problem, and I don't know if it's a 750 or 535?? I'm thinking of using it around town. Now the nitty gritty. I'm a pretty big boy. Will I look like King Faruk sitting on a barstool?? Also what's your thinking on max bid?? http://www.westauction.com/auction/701/item/36836
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Picked up new project a couple weeks ago a 87 Venture Royale. Was told it run a several months ago. Carbs were partially broke down and in a box. Cleaned the carbs and adjusted the valves . Received the new diaphragms this afternoon and installed them and put the carbs back on the bike. Woo Hoo it started. Started it several times and warmed it up. Turned it off at the switch and it kept running????? It did stop when I turned off the kill switch but lights and everything else stayed on. Anyway I played with it and some times it works fine and other times it stays on. Will even start in the key off position, can turn key through the acc position and it kept running. Got it to turn off again (kill switch and then turn the key off,) and did some other things and noticed that lights were on again. It then worked fine turned off with the key and sat fine for another couple of hours without doing anything. Quit for the night without chasing it anymore. I would think it’s the ignition switch but is there anything else I should be looking at? Working on some of the cracks and broken posts in the farings. The replacement post in the last picture is wood dowel some sanding and glued on using Rapid-Fix ( great stuff). Here is a couple of pictures of the progress. Thanks in advance for any ideas. -
Here's my problem,,, I know, I got lots but this one has me stumped. My son bought a 82 Honda XL80s for my grandson. It was running and they did run it around the back yard a few times, but then it quit. So dad to the rescue. I've been working on this thing for 4 weeks now, and it just won't run, not even give me a burp. That said, I did have it running at one point, but the slowest it would go was about 3000 rpm, so I shut it down and since then, nothing. History. When I brought it to my garage I found the stator flywheel loose and the key sheared off. replaced the key, points, condenser, cleaned the flywheel, (took all magnets out and re-glued them) cleaned the carb, tried 3 different coils, but seem to get an inconsistent spark at best. Got about 90 lbs compression with 3 kicks on the starter, 120lbs with a shot of oil in the cylinder. Tried WD 40 to help it fire and then even some ether, but no fire period. I need some fresh ideas.
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Noone that I have come across in my life so far is or ever was an original owner. Well, one reletive of mine was and he totalled it setting the cruise so i dont really know if that counts. I guess what im asking if there is anyone who is or was, what made you chose the venture over the GL 1200/1500. Have you ridden both bikes? And what are your key favorite things about both? I just figured this would be a neat thread to start. Well ill buckle up for hopefully a great story!!!
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I traded my 03 for a new 09, and got 5 keys after I got home 1 key worked the ignition and trunk and 1 set works with one set of bags the other set work with the other bag. So I called the dealer and talked to salesman he said to stop in and talk to him and he will get me a nother key for ignition, stoped in and salesman is with someone so I walked over to parts dept. They said they can't help only the salesman can get me a key, or charge me $10 for a key. So after 1/2 hour salesman makes a key. I know they would never do this at a Harley dealer. My 03 had the same key for everthing, do most of you you have the same key for ignition and bags?
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So ... went out to the cold garage this morning (36 F. - ouch - Winter is definitely coming!) to start the bike and...no dash lights. The radio was coming on, as was the alarm but no dash lights and no start. As I was in a hurry (Club breakfast.) I started the Triumph and headed out on that. Oh the irony! Had to use my English bike because the Japanese bike wouldn't start. The exact opposite of the 70's! When I got back, I pulled off the seat and checked the battery - 12.71 V. which, given the temps and my efforts to start it earlier, seemed reasonable. Tried again and got a flash at the dash. Aha! Played with the key and, sure enough, everything is on! Moved the key a bit and off it all goes. Damn. The ignition switch! There is a tiny 2 or 3 degree arc between working and not working. I guess I waited too long to install a relay on the passing lights (I have them on all the time...gets cagers to notice me.). So...has anyone successfully repaired this switch or am I looking at a replacement? I've checked most of the main threads to date and it seems everyone either puts in a replacement or uses a permanent bypass. I wouldn't mind using a bypass that still requires the key to be on, but wouldn't that also require a properly working ignition switch? At least my gas tank was nearly empty, so removal should be a touch easier.
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Horn Wiring Question.
GolfVenture posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The stock horn works good. Installed a set of Stebel Electric horns on the existing wires and they work good. I installed a relay 30 to Horn 87 to Battery 85 to Ground 86 to Horn Button. When I turn the key on the horn goes off without me pressing the horn button. This is how I determined which of the origional black horn button I would hook to the horn button. I turned the key on and used a troubleshooting light and found the wire that lights up. I took that wire and hooked it to 86. After thinking about the 86 wire I asked why the horn wire is hot without pressing the horn button. I doubled check both sets of horn wire and sure enough when the key is on one wire from each set is hot. This would then activate the relay when the key is on Shouldn't that wire only be hot when the horn button is pressed? What do I look at? -
I recently picked up a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic and I'm unable to work the seat lock. I have an ignition key and a key that releases the fuel cap. Which key is used to release the seat lock? Neither key seem to go in very far. I sprayed a small amount of PB Blaster into the lock, but still no luck. Thank you, ~Jason -
So... I was riding home ('08 with 30k miles) from work this evening... and out of the blue, It acts like it's running out of fuel. Spitting and sputtering and finally just died. I took off the fuel cap and peeked in the tank... PLENTY of gas. Cycled the key... heard the fuel pump running... but it was running "slowly".... after several attempts and key cycles.... she fired up and ran fine the rest of the way home..... anybody have any Ideas???? I checked the battery connections and they were tight. Not sure what else to check...especially since it runs FINE now...... I know it's under warrenty.... but if I bring it in... they won't find anything since it's running fine now.....
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Stuck in traffic today going to work. Some idiot decided to park upsdie down on the interstate. anyhow, bike stalled 3 or 4 times while idling. Started right back up, but it was like some one just turned off the key. As long ans I held the throttle crakced a little or pulled the choke a hair, it was fine. Is it just running too lean? Any over heat or lack of good cool intake air issue? Thanks
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I have a 2006 RSV with 35,000 miles. I have had an on again off again problem with trying to start the bike. I will go out to start my bike, I pull the choke, turn the key on and I will NOT hear the fuel pump. The bike will fire and start but never make it to a fast idol. The funny part about this is 2 hours later I come back flip the key and I will hear the fuel pump engage right away. The first time I noticed was after a good wash. After a day of sitting I got the bike running, turned the hose on, and sprayed down the engine with water like it was on fire. NOTHING.....did not choke, spit, sputter or die....kept running like there was never a problem. This morning I went out to start the bike to ride to work. The bike sat in the garage for two days (rained all weekend) and had not run since Friday. The bike was a dry as dry gets. I pull the choke, turn the key on, and NO noise from the fuel pump. The bike cranks, fires, and starts but stays at a low RPM. Slowly the bike chugs out and dies. I placed my hand on all for exhaust pipes and all four were hot. I have thought for a while I either have fuel pump or fuel pump relay issues. Any thoughts??
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today on a short errand, headed out of town turned the radio on ...... nothing controller didn't light up nothing. Pulled in the clutch turned the key off coasted a ways turned key on started bike let clutch out tried radio everything ok??????????
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I lost my key at a routine rest stop this past weekend. I looked everywhere back tracking my steps but it just wasn't found. I couldn't believe I had lost it and we were 2 1/2 hours from home. Fortunately I had a spare hidden on the bike that had been there for a few years and never used. That saved our weekend. My lesson learned was that I will always have a spare key hidden on the bike and my in use key will be on a key chain. The rest of the story is that on our return trip we stopped at the rest stop and the lost key had been found and turned in. I'll never know how it got out of my pocket or who found it and turned it in but I learned a lesson. Bill
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Well folks, this morning mine finally gave me the firm signs that my ignition switch is on the way out. For a long time my trip odo would reset itself and I would have a flicker of the electronics when turning on my high beams; I had isolated that problem to a weakly connected and very corroded ground. BUT, in the last week or two I have noticed a flicker on my speedo when I turn the ignition ON (before starting) and didn't think much of it until this morning... I turned my key to the 'ON' position and then noticed that the display went completely out. When I went to turn the key back off to further investigate I found that it came back on when put a little pressure on the key to turn it from the "ON" position back to 'OFF'. So, now the experimentalist in me comes out and checks to see if I can duplicate the symptom/problem. Sure enough, when turning the ignition to the "ON" position, if I turn it all the way to the right it acts as if it is in the 'ACC' position and a little pressure counter-clockwise puts it back to functioning as if it is in the 'ON' position. Hmmm, so not the question is: 1) Disassemble switch, attempt cleaning/repair, reassemble and ride on? 2) Permanently install the by-pass I built and just let it go? 3) Dump 280+ at my local dealer for a new ignition switch? (haha- NO.) 4) Partshark and get a replacement switch for ~160 5) E-bay/pinwal get a replacement switch for 170 (don't believe me, go look for yourself - what a joke) 6) Of course there is always the "pretend like it isn't a problem until I am in the middle of BFN and my bike dies 'unexpectedly'". -- (haha -- this too is a big ol negatory) I think I will likely go with option #2 and a #1 planned in the near future and #4 as a back-up plan. I actually have a switch all wired up and ready to go where all I would need to do is snip the current wires and tie the bypass in. What I would like to come up with is an easy setup that would allow for my switch to be installed and ready to go allowing for a simple 'unbolt the tank and plug in the switch wires' solution, that way there is not the risk of someone flipping the switch and riding off with my bike without the key (I realize that is VERY unlikely to happen but still a possibility). So, I guess I'll need to get out the trusty old 'dingy' wiring diagrams (THANKS AGAIN!!!) and some thought. I guess I am venting more than anything here, so don't mind me and my mindless writing; although I wouldn't argue with suggestions -
Anyone have some helmet locks laying around they are not using? The previous owner of my 06 RSV took them off along with many other things and I would like to have some back there. Of course I would need a key to go with them. Let me know what you want for them and I am sure we can work something out. Thanks Mongo
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Need advice before I do anything. I ride a 2006 RSV with 12k miles. 3rd owner. Getting ready to leave work today and I jumped on the bike to take off. Put the key and it won't turn. I had tge bike locked. Had to move it back and forth and pulled the key in and out and it finally turned. I did wash the bike last night but no hard water spray. Thoughts? Replace, WD40,
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I'm about to have my ignition switch replaced again (44K miles). The first time was around half that mileage. The first time Yamaha also paid for redoing the locks on the saddlebags, trunk & helmet locks. This time they'll fix the ignition, but, said they won't do the other part. This really annoys me. They wanted to know how this has happened twice to me, never to anyone else. They think I must carry a wad of keys. I don't. Only the bike key, not even on a key ring. I don't want to carry 2 keys &, yes, I know I can have 1 key cut on one side for the ignition & the other side for the saddlebags, etc. That is what I will most likely do, as it's the cheapest way to solve the problem for me. Regardless, I still think Yamaha should fix the problem at their expense under warranty. I guess I'm looking for advice. Thanks in advance for any insight. I only feel a little better after venting this.
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Do we have any locksmiths here? It seems as though I remember a while back that we had a member or two who could cut us some keys. I ran all over the place looking for someone who could make a couple duplicate keys for my Maxim and the kids scooter locally. Not even any of the steelerships could cut a cycle key. I have the keys in hand and I'm assuming they can be made if the locksmith has the number stamped on them? Even if I can just get the blanks would be nice. Then I could take them to the local hardware store to have them cut. Thanks, Bill
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Here it is in a nutshell. One time I will get on and the compressor will start as soon as I turn the key, but adding very little air the the suspension. The next time I turn on the key it dumps the air. Any ideas? This is getting very frustrating. Oh yea, the display shows either 8.8 or 0 all the time it is on. Shaun
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Is there anyone that can tell me if there is a accessory pluge in so I can have running lights in the front that would come on when I have the key on and go off when i trun the key off Ron:whistling:
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I hope someone can help me. I have a 2004 RSV and I need to wire my gps. I don't have a owners manual. I would like the gps to have power only while the key is "on". Where is the best place to run the wires. Thanks.
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History, 83 venture. PO battery junk and replaced with AGM dec09 from batterys plus. April 2010 battery blew up like basket ball(case swelled)-likely my fault, charged with auto battery charger at about 10A. Battery Plus honored warrenty and replaced april 2010 Currently working on electrical mods, and about 1 month testing on bike(key on, test, key off....)battery down to 10V, never any power problems during any testing. Mods done and working great, last night decided to charge (4A) and ride in AM. AM charger shows failure, key on and everything dead.(clock display on key off then disappears key on). V check battery=9V, amp check accross battery(20A scale)=.1A try to recharge, and computer charger detects fault and fails to start. Back to Batterys Plus, they test simular readings, are trying to recover battery but likely hopeless-not responding correctly to charger, warrenty expired, purchase new battery and tender(battery minder plus). If they manage to recover will be spare. pictured 1-battery using, 2-computerized charger using, 3- new tender Now the question, What could have caused the AGM to go completely dead overnight while on computerized charger, and it was fine power wise prior to charging? Do I need to be leary of my computerized charger? Fixing to go out and check key off load test, and amp test computer charger(on auto battery) to verify 2-4-6amp readings are correct. will post update. Not having much luck with AGMs, what am I doing wrong? update key off=.6mA charger at 2A=2.7A, at 4A=4.0A, at 6A=5.0A, charges for just 1 pulse then quickly detects complete charge and shuts down charge complete on all 3 cycles
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