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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
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I have a 2006 RSV. In the last day I have used my vacum pump to flush my rear brake and clutch and now getting ready to flush out my front brakes. Does it matter what caliper I flush first? Any thoughts/tips/suggestion would be greatly appreciated!
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Going to be a long post. I have an 08 RSTD and lost the rear brakes a week ago today. This is what I have done. 1: Bleed breaks traditional way 2: Replace Rear pads notice pistons were frozen on curb side. 3: Removed rear caliper cleaned and split caliper. Cleaned all cups and visual check of all o rings 4. Reinstall Caliper bleed brakes still no luck (Pistons are functioning now.) 5: Clear fluid from lines back bled brakes This worked for a day and back to the pedal to the floor. Last night I drained all fluid and back bled again. I have pedal until I push on it twice and then no pedal. I can pump it up only to loose the pressure at the next test in say 60 yards. I have no fluid leaks, hoses appear to be fine. If when I bleed the brakes leave it set overnight I have pressure in the line until I use the pedal. Seems to be failing under load. I have not rebuilt or replaced the master cylinder. Stressing I have a 500 mile ride next Saturday and would like rear brakes. Any suggestions other than take it to a stealer? Thanks in advance SJ
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I read a post from Goose and he stated that you can inspect the rear pads from behind the right rear bag. I did as he said and it was no problem. Just get you a long screw driver and pop the plastic cover off, then have a bright small flashlight and your spectacles to see the brake lining. The cover pops right back on with the use of the screw driver to push down upon the cover once placed in position. My pads where in the 1/4" use range. The inside was around 3/16" while the outside was 1/4". So for those of you whom have changed and have experience with brakes. I am wondering though, just how much pad can I depend upon until change time ? Do the original pads have rib-bits in them, or are they clued? If clued then I may be looking at about another 4,000 miles till change time? The bike has 13,000 on it now, 2007 model. I also checked my Avon Venom tires with a bright flashlight for cracks. There was none. So I am pleased. They are two years old and 8,000 miles. So I am happy about that. But I am somewhat concerned about the brakes, since I have no prier experience with them. Thanks to Goose for the information on checking the pads. Thanks to all in advance for any help deciding on the pads to change. I do know that when I change, I think I need to use the EBC double H sintered pads. I saw some here in the classifieds for $ 27.00 . Fuzzy -
My rear brake system was not working so I removed the MC and replaced it with a spare that I received when I got the bike. Grabbed a can of Brake fluid of the shelf and bleed the breaks and walla I have rear front brakes now. This was all time consuming (started around 8:30 pm and finished about 12:30 am) but not real difficult. (By the way the Speed Bleeders work really well). This morning the bike would not start so I removed the TCI (it's relocated to be under the false tank) and put it into the oven on warm for 15 min. Re installed it and the bike started right up. So off to work I go. I'm lucky that my commute is only 10 miles. At the 8 to 9 mile mark the bike starts to bog down like it's under a heavy load so I shift down which help for about 10 seconds so I pull the clutch in to shift down again and the rear tire locks up...hard. I could not free it even with the engine. The cage behind me was a little close but they never hit me. I did the best I could to get the bike out of the street but I only got it out of the main traffic pattern. Luckily it was just a busy residential street. I turned the flashers on got off the bike and tried to assess the problem. (The engine is off by now). Well I figured that I did something wrong When doing the brakes last night so I checked the rear brakes (I hadn't put the panels back on just in case I had to get back into there) and sure enough the MC plunger would not move. I stood around for 10 to 15 min trying to figure out what to do. I finally went to the house that I was stopped in front of and asked to barrow their hose to cool down the brakes. So here I am practically out in the middle of the street looking like I’m washing my bike with the flashers going I'm sure people passing by thought I was insane. Well the water cooled the brakes down enough that I was able to get the bike out of the street. I was not able to get the bike to start because the flashers wore the battery down. Well if you have not guessed by now the lesson I learned is to NOT use old open brake fluid!!! I'm lucky that it didn't lock up on me while I was on the highway. So I walked the remaining mile and a half to work stopping at the auto parts store along the way and got everything I would need to bleed the brakes at lunch when I go retrieve the bike. By the way the whole time I was out in the street not one person offered to help or even asked what I was doing. Although no one on a bike came by.
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Does anyone else out there have a second gen venture that souds like a city bus coming to a stop, if so what can be done to quiet the frront brakes ? Thanks for your help
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I have a 2004 RSMV and the front brakes are extremely noisey and very annoying. The bike only has 22K KM (approx 13750 Miles) and still has the factory pads. Even though they are still good I want to change them to get rid of the noise. I as thinking about going to the EBC and was wondering which pads,the organic, ceramic, ????? Please advise.
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Found an old '49 Chevy pickup just wondering around on eBay and couldn't help but fall in love with it. Picked it up yesterday in Augusta Ga. and I am now visiting some friends in Raleigh NC. Heading out this morning for home. The truck was restored in the late '90s and still looks and drives real nice. It's old school with the old Chevy "Stovebolt Six" but has a late model 5 speed with an S-10 rear end and disk brakes. No power steering, no power brakes, no a/c and the radio don't work. So far I'm love'n it.
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ughhhh..I hate brakes. I rebuilt my calipers on my 84 and have been bleeding or attempting to bleed the brakes.. the front right is fine, but I simply cannot get the air out of the left front/ rear...no matter how much i bleed with a vac, i still get a steady stream of bubbles....much more than normal.. I have to be getting air in the system somewhere, but can't find where...checked banjo bolts and bleeders....calipers are working.....rear seems to have less air than the front left... any idea where i might have a leak.. i never messed with the junction near the steering neck. darn.. this is beyond frustrating.. I've been battling this for days... clay -
I am going to take my front wheel into the dealer to get a tire put on because they want a fortune to do it. I had a quick look tonight and it doesn't look that difficult. Is there anything I should be aware of? Do I have to remove the brakes before removing? Do I need to do anything with the bearings? 44,000 Kms (26,400 Miles) Thanks, John -
Well as of yesterday I have had my 83 on the road. I have a few problems that need adressed. The first is the @#$% brakes. They stink. I went through and rebled them and now they are worse. I know I am missing something here but when you cant stop 900 lbs rolling down the road you have a problem. The second is the cooling fan, why does it wait until the gauge is at the red before it will come on? Third is it is running rich, smells like gas when you start it and as long as it idles you can smell it. After you ride for a while it clears up, why? Fourth is there a taller windshield for the early MK1's? The top edge is right at eye level. Other than the brakes these are minor problems. Thank you for all the help. Shaun
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Commuting to work today about 65 mph with cruise control on and felt a slight hesitation and then a very loud squeal. Pulled over to the shoulder to check things out. Did not see anything abnormal. Got rolling again and when I started passing 40 MPH the sound came back again and the entire bike seemed to be very rough. Called a tow truck and had the bike dropped off at the shop. The shop could not find anything wrong. Anyone else ever experience this? I suspect the front brakes were binding or a bad bearing. Shop said the brakes and bearings were good. John in San Diego
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Well I got into the brakes again. Now that I know how to bleed the left front out. I started by getting the resivor open. This I thought was going to be a pain but it popped right loose and was not bad at all. After topping off the fluid I started to bleed it out. I did it old school but still cheated. I made a check valve that would allow the air to exit but not re-enter. After 2 cups of coffee and 45 minutes of pumping the pedal up and down I had all the air out and good clean new fluid throughout the system. I want to thank you all for informing me how the brakes were set up and how to bleed them out. Shaun
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Does anyone know off the top of thier head what the part number is for ECB brakes, front and rear for the RSV?
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By any chance someone recorded how many strokes of the lever one needs to pump before new fluid is bleeding out? I bleed my clutch, front brakes and rear brakes. All the fluid that came out seemed really clean, being that I have only put 1000 miles since I purchased my 89 VR, I do not know when they were last bleeded. I pumped 4 times then refilled the Reservoir until I guessed it was enough. I also made sure that each Reservoir ended up half full for expansion.
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Scared myself today. Instead of my 89 venture, I decided to take my Kawasaki Concourse out for a ride. I bought it for my son to ride so I haven't been on it that much. I was in the middle of a corner doing 65 and three deer are walking across the road. No problem. Plenty of time to slow down. So I touched the brake pedal like I would on my Venture with its integrated brakes. They do a good job of slowing you down in a controlled way. Ooops! These are just the rear brakes and they are a lot touchier than the Ventures. I hear the rear tire lock up on me just as I start to fish tail back and forth about 3-4 times. I pulled my foot off the brake pedal and thank God, it straightened out. I would have stood up on the pegs to shake the stuff out of my shorts but the pucker factor was well into the upper 8s (0-10) and I couldn't raise my butt off the seat. Well, I will be conscious of that issue from now on. Whew!
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Now ,It would have gone faster If I had the Original windscreen on it. Im 250 lbs All bags were removed no wind 241.8 KPH recordered on a Garmin Street Pilot Thats 150.1 mph At around 210 kph I wanted to see how the brakes would do, well Im impressed with the 8 pads of stopping power it has well actually 6 the other 2 is operated with the back pedal Its nice to do it once in a while to pump up my 57 year old body
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gee, look sleeperhawk,i think i got my money out of these. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/picture.php?albumid=800&pictureid=5040
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Well, I became a supporting member Wed, and Thurs I went down, so I guess I gotta send another donation in. I was on my way to work and people were all and out not driving worth a darn. I had to slam on the brakes and one second later I'm sliding on my left side. Probably was going 25-30 mph. Helmet got some scratches, jacket, glove and boot just got some "character" added to them, pants got a small hole. Bike lost it's left mirror, sanded some paint off and chipped the edge of the turn signal. Highway peg, saddlebag bar, and pipe took most of the abuse and had the most wear. Guy behind me stopped, helped me right it, and push it to a nearby parking lot. Me, I got some bruises on my left side, some rug burn most likely from my shirt moving (jacket kept it from being road rash) but the worst injury was my RIGHT thumb must have hit something because it was swelling and hurt like a sob. Wife picked me up and took me to the dr. Nothing broken, just sprained. But now I can't grab the throttle. So after work, I had a buddy come and drive it home for me. Started ok, rode fine, he liked the power of it (1st gen rule!). So for now, I put in on winter insurance, will have to fix the mirror, I want to repaint & repair all the cracks in the fairing, and will de-link the brakes, which is what I'm sure put me down. My son asked if I was getting rid of it. I told him "No way". -Andrew
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I was coming home from work tonight on the freeway, when all of a sudden it was like I put my foot on the brakes. I started to slow even with more throttle. I got off the exit and stopped at a light. Pulled over and looked all the way around the bike in the semi-darkness of a gas station. It had smoke coming from underneath but no oil or anything. definite burning rubber smell but I couldn't see anything stuck somewhere. started it back up and it revved fine. pulled out and it ran just like normal. when I got home I shined a flashlight all the way around and can't find anything. 86 Venture with 28,000 miles. I replaced the brakes and tires about 1500 miles ago. Rear end was lubed about 5,000 miles ago and the oil changed last month. I wonder about a dragging rear brake, but the peddle felt fine and I pushed down hard on both front and rears before stopping. Anyone ever have this problem? I worried I might be melting a clutch but I would think that it wouldn't go away like that
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OK all, I have the beast on the road (without plastic - see pic). I love the de-linked brakes, but, I will probably replace the long rubber hose (master-to-coupler) with a braided line to firm the front brakes up a little. The 1300 engine with Vmax cams and springs is a real hoot. The power is impressive! I need to do some fine-tuning on the carbs. They are from my 1200 and all I have done is to add 1.6mm spacers on the needles. It starts easy and runs good. The idle seems to wander a bit and I have not checked the mpg. Next - PAINT
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My Dad has a lot of health problems, thanks to Agent Orange. He is finally on VA 100% disability for it. A while back, we sold his 2006 Road King, as it was too heavy for him to hold up. He has neuropathy in his legs, and he also has Parkinson's. After selling the RK, he bought Midnite's 1100 Vstar, because it was much lighter, and had a lower seat height. Although it was easier for him to ride, he still had problems with it, so he sold it also. We decided it would be safer on four wheels, and since he probably doesn't have too many good years left, it was time to just say "%&$@ it", and just go borrow the money, and buy himself a nice car. The car is a 1948(same year he was born) Ford Super Deluxe Coupe. It has had a LOT of work done in the restoration, and it sports a mildly built Chevy 350. It also has power steering, power brakes, front disc brakes, and cruise control. We are going to add air conditioning. He is a happy camper now.
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:confused24:OK,I just finished servicing the final drive on my 99 RSV.I used instructions I down loaded from this site,everything worked out just fine until I noticed that my brakes are not mounted the same way as the brakes in the pictures in the instructions.my rear calipers are mounted below the swing arm.Ever picture and diagram i have seen shows the caliper mounted above the swing arm.my mounting bracket is totally different.everthing hangs below the swing arm.Can anyone explain this????
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I'm researching the best way to drastically improve front brakes while keeping my integrated brakes intact. I really like the integrated system as it keeps the rear from locking and does a pretty good job stopping the bike. My front brake is "OK", but I know it can be a lot better. Options to consider mixing and matching R1 Caliper 14mm master cylinder from 03 FJR or newer Star V Twin EBC HH pads in stock caliper Stainless lines I know I can use the 14mm master in conjunction with a pair of R1's as many have done, but then I lose the integrated brakes. Anyone put on a single R1 right front caliper and did you use stock or 14mm master? Stainless will be a must. Any real world experience is appreciated. -
Has anybody done the upgrade to R1 brakes on a 2nd gen? I went with stainless brake llines shortly after I bought my bike, 'cause the brakes felt awful "soft" after my FJR and Duc. The stainless lines really helped, but I am curious about going to the R1 brakes. They "should" help quite a bit. Ideas?
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10925.1 i"ll try to make this short as i can.i bought an 06 black cherry venture with 59760 miles on it and thought i checked it fairly well,no compression check,pull plugs etc but did test drive and seem to run well other than front brakes wernt to good and the clutch was not right and it would idle fast sometimes and seemed to be a little to cold nature.(hell i guess i didnt check it out to well after all!). after talking to the service department i did get them to replace the clutch,fix the front brakes and clean out the fuel tank,clean out the carbs and replace the fuel filterand syn the carbs,twice.heres what it done.had cruise set at 75 pulling a slight incline while low on fuel and it cut out on me.chalked it up to possably to low on fuel. filled it up ran good for two days and once againg pulling a slight incline with no cruise this time runnimg about 73 rolled off the throtle till about 62 and gave it some more throttle and it just about chocked out but i did get it to take fuel after i slowed down to 41 and like to got ran over. the dealer lokked at it againg did there deal rand good for three days and cut out on me again leaving drive way. i think its the choke some how closeing and smothering it,can someone help? thanks. i know other people have had the same problem but seems like i did some of the thing people suggested with no possative results.
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