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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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I'm helping a Friend add the Kisan vectraLight - Brake Light and Turn Signals to his 08 Electra Glide Classic. I'll need to splice into the existing run, turn and brake wiring. To simplify this, Does anyone happen to know what the color code for these wires are? Thanks, Rich
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Run Turn Brake LED - problem
Mike G in SC posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Months back, a lighting guy installed a Signal Dynamics module and LED's on my 2006 RSTD in my rear signal lights to make the Run/Turn/Brake. Really bright and works perfect. Last week he installed the same module & LED's in my 2009 Venture and gets different results. When you hit either turn signal, the other side lights up bright as a brake. When you turn off the turn signal, both lights stay on brake for 10 seconds then go back to run. Also, when you press the brake, and let go, the brake lights stay on for same 10 seconds then go back to run. Signal Dynamics says it's due to the 4 way flasher unit of the Venture and has no cure. The RSTD does not have 4 way flashers. The tail light (a 100 light LED) operates correctly. He is going to try a Badlands module to see if he gets different results. But if it's due to the hazzards, may hit same snag. Anyone else hit this snag. Basically when you trip the turn or brake, the brake lights stay on for 10 seconds after you release. This could fool a following bike into thinking you are riding brakes or just stupid. Probably the latter. Thanks, Mike G in SC -
On the 1st gen instrument cluster there is a reed switch mounted above the speedometer cable input. This reed switch senses the turning of the front wheel and outputs a signal to the cruise control & turn signal cancel circuit. Picture attached below. Does anyone know if this reed switch pulses 1 time per revolution of the speedometer cable or a different number? I don't have a spare cluster head to check for this, and don't want to dig into the one on the bike. I am working on a digital circuit to replace the flasher/hazard relays and the turn signal cancel circuit. I will use the count output by this reed switch to determine the distance the bike has traveled and use this input to cancel the turn signals at some distance traveled point. I know the front wheel circumference and the number of revolutions the cable makes per wheel rotation. With this info and knowing the number of times per cable revolution the reed switch pulses, I can calculate distance traveled. I am going to replace the bulb in the rear turn signal housing with 15 LED's arranged in a pattern that can produce five independent arrows circuits of 3 LED's each. Second picture below. These five arrow patterns will be sequenced to give the appearance of a moving banner in the direction of the turn. At this point I plan to light first the inboard arrow, then at about 1/5 second intervals light the next arrow until all five arrows are lit, then turn off the first arrow, then each of the other arrows at the same 1/5 second interval, until all are off. This will give a full sequence every 2 seconds. This sequencing will be repeated as long as the turn signal switch request is on, or the self timer cancels signals. Also, there will be a brake light circuit that will activate all the LED's steady in both turn signals when the brake is activated. If a left or right turn signal or hazards are activated, the brake light for the corresponding side in the turn signal housing, or both in case of hazards, will be deactivated allowing the side to flash. Center brake light will function as it does now. If I have room in the turn signal housing, I will also mount lower wattage LED's for tail light function. I have an analog (relay) circuit designed that will do the sequencing and brake functions using the existing outputs from the turn, hazard & brake switches. I will convert that design to a digital version which will be fairly compact and low power consumption. I am estimating about the size of a cigarette pack. This controller will also control front signals and dash indicators without the sequencing or brake light features. Gary -
Here are some pics of my new moto-lights. Steve -
Just installed motolights on front caliper now have no front brakes. Lever is extremely soft. Brake lights do work. Any ideas? Steve
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I found this Ebay seller located near Toronto. The brake lines are stainless, covered with PVC. After shipping it would be about $40 per line. I haven't even looked to see how many lines we need but it seems a long way from the price offered in the classified. In fairness. it's comparing apples to oranges because of course this vendor is not offering the de-link kit. Not sure if I want to de-link or not. Any thoughts on the product, price or comparison? Any thoughts on to de-link or not? http://cgi.ebay.ca/YAMAHA-XVZ13-VENTURE-CUSTOM-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAKE-LINE-/190403794950?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c54f35806
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Earl (SkyDoc) had been trying to sell me those "special calipers" for my bike, well I finally purchased his complete brake system and I must say fellows, it does make a difference and even though I questioned was it worth it before I bought the calipers and steel lines, I can tell you it is. My braking is soooooo much more smooth and yes, it will throw you into the windshield. Not trying to push this for SkyDoc, just passing along my experience.
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Hi to all, I did some work on my forks and put it back together today all was working fine last night. Now i have no lights, headlight, turn signals and rear brake light. Now when i hit my turn signal they work fine and when I apply my front or rear brakes the brake light works. Headlight completely inop and no driving lights at all. Looked at harness no pinched wires at steering stop. Any help woud be welcomed. Screaming red
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I'm looking for extended brake and shift levers for my 98RoyalStar. I'd like to keep the boards just extend the brake pedal an inch or so.(my foot all ways seems to be stuck under it) The same with the shift lever,eliminate the heel shift and extend the lever an inch or so. I found the Soft Brake site,they offer a brake pedal but I dont see a shift lever for the RoyalStar just the RoadStar. Any one know of another company making levers for the RoyalStar? thanks jim -
Ok here'e the poop. I just bought a Dart trailer. The trailer has 4 lights, 2 brake/running and 2 turn signal. It has a 5 pin connector. I picked up the mating connector, wired it into the harness of my 07 RSV. After each connection I checked to make sure what I was hooking up worked. After it is all said and done, I have running lights, turn signals and brake lights. Sweet........not!! We noticed that when the running lights were on and I turned on a turn signal, the running lights would dim ever so slightly with each blink of the turn signal. Ok, needs grounded better. As I checked the ground at the harness under the seat and trying it out again I see my radio goes out when I hit the brake or turn on the turn signal. So I unsoldered all of my connections at the bike wiring harnes and now the radio still goes out when I hit the brake or turn signals. I was trying to get this ready for a weekend get away, now I will be driving a cage instead of riding the bike. Any ideas on where I went wrong? How can I fix this? Electrical on a bike is not my strong suit, but I thought it was pretty straight forward. I need help!! Randy
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Where does it plug in at??? Under the tank or somewheres else?? I ask because my brake light is stuck on, I disconnected the foot switch and it stayed on so it pretty much narrowed it down to the front.
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the frames at the sand blaster, and i just fired up the new motor for it. i bought a new 13 hp, 389 cc, overhead valve, electric start motor, from harbor freight. that along with the cvt, comet clutch, should set a cruising speed around 65mph, top speed around 75 mph. i'm using a zx-14 rear disc and caliper for the front brake and the original drum brake in the rear. it should stop good and run with the hardleys uo to 50 mph., with it's low weight of 275 lbs.. getting excited about getting my frame back so i can start machining parts for the drive train and get the motor mounted. i'm also going to 10" polished aluminum wheels with michlein tires to improve the handling. to finish things off i am going to paint it silver and blue clear coat to match my nomad. it will look original except for the wheels, disc brake, and fancy paint job. should be a real sleeper at the cushman meets. for all you folks that had and loved cushmans when you were young , they are still very popular. there are thousands of them around. check out some of the cushman sites. it makes a great hobby. there are alot of meets, and nice people involved in them.
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Hello, what does the second light down on the left of my 1989 venture royale mean? It kinda looks like a small bulb surrounded by a housing. Does it mean low brake fluid? Or could it mean I have air in my brake lines?? Is it a symbol for a drip of something? I don't have my manual, so I'm at a loss.
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Saturday I was riding with a group (6 bikes) on a trip and we were in Wilke-Barre PA and met a bike and the guy was waving to us and looking at our bikes and wasn't paying attention and slamed into the back of a car. Thank god it was in the city and he wasn't going fast. He lost a little meat on his leg and I'm sure he will be sore but was ok for the most part. The bike took a hard hit on the throttle and brake cables and lines and a few scrapes but wasn't to bad. We waited for him to get help and went on our way. He was awful lucky not to be hurt worse. The whole thing happeded right in front of me.
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Added the last tail light bulb so that all running and brake lights are now LEDS...Those Harley 90 degree bulbs sure are expensive. Added the chrome shift pegs and brake pedal also...Told TATERS she should feel a little safer now with the added SAFETY CHROME....
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I've searched and cant really find anything on my problem, usually people have the problem that the brake light wont come on.... my issue is it wont go off. I tried doing some trouble shooting and I unplugged the foot brake switch with no avail so its looking like its the upper switch. I took the upper off and it seems to be moving freely, if I knew where it plugged in at I would unplug it to see if the light went off. So.... anyone know where it plugs in or have any idea what it could be???? Almost forgot... 2006 RSTD with 30k miles.
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Quick question, I used to ride a BMW RT1200P and was spoiled by the adjustable brake/clutch levers. Im 6'00 and can reach the brake lever on my 04 BUT...does anyone know of a lever that reduces the reach a little bit. I've looked through the threads and only saw new levers mentioned based on appearance (chrome or flat blade). Thanks for any help. Clint:Venture:
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just an observation. Yesterday I took my sons '05' Black Cherry 1800 to get a rear tire installed. The first thing I noticed was the size of the mirrors, I LIKE them He has foot boards on his bike and that brings up the second point. You have to raise the foot board to get to the kickstand and then put it back down. On the other side is the brake paddle and EVER YTIME I raised my foot from a standstill to put it on the foot board I hit the brake. Then I had to bend my knee more than I'm used to just to place it on the board. Very uncomfortable ! The third item is a second positive ! I absolutely love the fuel injection response when I twist the throttle :thumbsup: Didn't like the seat at all
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Just curious how many miles you guyz are getting on a set of rear brake pads. I just pulled mine @ 27,660 kilometes (17,187 miles). These are the OEM "original" pads (first time change). I swapped them side-to-side about 8,000 km ago and now the outer is almost to the metal and the inner ain't got much more than that. I do use my front brake a fair amount and they still have lots of wear left.
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There were lots of things I like about my Venture...the brake pedal is, (or rather was), not one of them...so I decided to change it. The original was too high and too far back. It seemed to me that it would be much easier to use if it was in front of the footboard instead of above it. This was all a lofty concept until I got too close to a chop saw and a welder. I cut the pedal from above the hub. Then I welded a length of steel below the hub and welded what remained of my pedal to that. The brake pedal arm is now about twice as long so to keep the stroke at the footpad about the same, I drilled a hole above the original which connects the pedal to the master cylinder lever. I also chopped the footpad off of the pedal, and moved it forward and up about an inch each. The results, in all their, (yet unpainted), glory can be viewed in the attached photos. Now the brake pedal is convenient, effective and allows me to use the entire footboard comfortably. All in all, I consider it a great improvement.
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Started home Sun morning and "Brown Sugar" showed me why she let a couple of those other bikes get close. Started lagging when I let off gas and soon just wouldn't go. Rear/Front brake locked up. Opened rear bleeder and got no fluid. Opened front bleeder and got no fluid. Master cylinder? Brake released while we were there and I rode it home with only front brake. If it released it seems to me calipers are ruled out?? Can you imagine what that thing would do if the Brakes weren't holding it back???
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Has anybody done the upgrade to R1 brakes on a 2nd gen? I went with stainless brake llines shortly after I bought my bike, 'cause the brakes felt awful "soft" after my FJR and Duc. The stainless lines really helped, but I am curious about going to the R1 brakes. They "should" help quite a bit. Ideas?
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I have had this on the bike for about 3 years now. It worked fine until last year. When I have the turn signal going and hit the brake the light stops blinking but when I release the brake it starts right back up. I hooked the trailer to the car and it works fine. I have checked all the wiring connections and they all look good. We want to get everything working before we take our 10 day trip :biker:in October so am I over looking anything? If not I will just have to buy a new modulite. Thanks
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I have been brake doing maintenance on my 83 VR.I changed my front pads and changed my fluid.No problem with that part. I changed my rear Brake pads ,drained my fluids and bled my system.It was working but now I have no rear brakes. I undid my Rear bleeder and did a reverse bleed with a fluid pump I had figuring I had an air bubble or something.Filled the rear reservoir too .I took the caliper off and inspected it.I pushed on my break pedal and there was no pad movement.I losened the rear bleeder on caliper and pushed the bake break.No fluid movement.When I take the bleeder out I can see fluid in the chamber. Could there be a problem with my rear master cylinder?Anybody have ideas or have I just missed something? Thanks all. Ray -
Last night, I went ahead and replaced my Amber colored clutch fluid. I bought a set of Speed Bleeders and they are the best your money can buy. There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder. I had to refill the reservoir at least 4 times to be certain that I have clear liquid coming out the other end. As a beginner, it took me almost an hour being careful not to spill any brake fluid. Next in line is the rear brake reservoir...it does looks dark from the exterior.
