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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Just tell him to bring the Stop-Switch back in operating Position ....
  2. Squeeze
    I'm sorry to say, but there's no Relation between VIN and Key Numbers.
  3. Squeeze
    Well, I'm not on to embarrassing you, but i think other than dismounting the Carbs, a bit more Experience in Carb Work would be a good Thing. Not to forget, after working on the Carbs, a Carb Balancing Job is necessary.
  4. Squeeze
    Warming up Procedure is a whole different Animal on each and every Bike. There are a Lot of Parts involved, mechanical Slack in each Part, Rubber Parts, misadjusted Choke Levers inbetween the Carb Set, Engine Compression and whatnot else ... As long as the Bike starts good and picks up normal Behaviour shortly after starting, i wouldn't bother too much with it. Next Time you have the Covers off, it may be time to check Linkages and look a deep Look into the mechanical Side.
  5. Squeeze
    I believe, on the '85 isn't a YICS System anymore. If you have been in the Carbs, probably you interchanged the PAJ#1 and PAJ#2 on some or all Carbs. The PAJ#2 is behind the Slider Diaphragm and should be 160 to 170 in Size. The PAJ#1 is in the Carb Throat and is much smaller, 75 to 90 i think. Better to check the Shop Manual for exact Sizes of these. No I've been there, done that ...
  6. Squeeze
    Sound like a partially stuck Floater Valve to me, or the Air Jets in the Carbs are clogged somewhat and therefore the Bike is running rich.
  7. Squeeze
    Good Job Mike, i like it the Bike and the Effort you've taken to get it done. :thumbsup2::thumbsup2:
  8. Squeeze
    Take Compression Readings on all 4 Cylinders. If there's one drastic out of unison, pull the Engine and fit another running Motor. If there's Con-Rod or a Valve bent or one of the main Bearings shot, it just isn't worth bothering anymore. But i'd check the Oil Level before proceeding with Compression Check.
  9. Squeeze
    You're right. If there's no Connector for the CA-Canister, it should be a non CA-Carb Set. 4.5 Turns out from the bottom is not a good Thing. The complete Range for adjusting Purpose is around 5 Turns and because of the Design of the Jet(here the Tip of the Mixture Adjustment Screw) there's almost no Difference anymore at the upper End of the Range. It's like "almost everything" at 4.5 Turns and "everything" at 5 Turns. You want to keep the Adjustment up to 3.5 Turns. Above that it more or less dump everything minus some Percent. If your Setting needs more than 4 Turns on the Mixture Screw, there's something wrong. Chasing Vacuum Leaks is the first Step, then Diaphragm on the Sliders, Pilot Air Jets in the Carb Throat, Pilot Fuel Jets inside the Floater Bowls for clogging and basically correct Dimension. Sure the Settings of the Air Mixture Screw have Influence on the Mixture of complete RpM Range from Idle to full open Throttle. That's because the Settings of the individual Sub-Systems of the Carbs add up through the RpM Range. The Idle System(Air Mixture Screw) is the only System in work from 1000 to 1500 RpM. From 1500 to 2800 RpM the Pilot Fuel Jets add up their share, from 2500 the up to 5000 RpM the Needle Jet/Jet Combination Needle take over a Lot of Work, above 4500 RpM, the Main Jet gets involved. Of Course when you have a Problem on the upper End, the Influence of the Idle System is diminished versus all the other Sub-Systems, but if there is too much Air or too much Fuel coming from the Idle System, the A/F Ratio is out of whack. Those are the Basics, but since there are some more Subsystems in the Carbs and all they all serve their Purpose. I think, after a thorough check for Vacuum Leaks on the Mainfolds, a complete Cleaning and checking of the Carbs is in Order. Of course this means ripping the Carbs completely apart, cleaning everything and check all Jets for their Size also.
  10. Squeeze
    Or you could ask somebody else to grow your Plants .... Some Guys in Malaysia will gladly turn down some Acres of Rain Forrest to grow your Weed, uhh sorry Corn ...
  11. Squeeze
    Outstanding Job Bob !! I'm sure you won't need the Cage. Why ?? Because if a Man is ready to tackle that Job, he's going to do just about anything to get it done in Time. My Hat is off to you. I sure would have bought another Wireing Harness.
  12. Squeeze
    I'm just glad you found the Culprit. Chasing Faults in the Charging System is always a bad Situation, just because there are so much Items invloved and you can't test them on it's own for a complete Judgement. I would do a Stator test with unhooked R/R, but hey you found this d...ed Thing and that what counts. On a Sidenote, you changed and cleaned everything, made sure to have good Contact in half the Bikes Wireing System and that most likely will give you the tremendous charging Voltage.
  13. Squeeze
    That's a very good Idea, that'll deliver even more Ammo for bashing the other Bikes ... :rotf::rotf:
  14. Squeeze
    You need to undo the Center Bolt of the Rotor. There should be a Steel Wire sticking inside the Bolt. But be careful, the Bolt gets 130 Nm Torque, better use a long Tube as an Extension to open it up. You'll need a 32mm Box Wrench to hold the Rotor. The Cooling Kit Bolt has a tiny Boring in the Center of the Bolt Head.
  15. Squeeze
    A bad Rotor can occur, but it's very very seldom. The Magnets inside the Flywheel are permanent and to make them weak, you really have to hammer on the Flywheel or set it under AC Current. Extreme Heat might be an Option, but the Rotor would look blue at least and all the Main Bearings would have been gone by now. At this Point, i have no further Idea other to exchange everything from the Stator up to Battery. As the Battery is proven good and it don't believe in three bad R/R, the Stator might be the Culprit. While you have the Stator Cover open, you could check ,if the "Stator Cooling Upgrade" is mounted on your Bike.
  16. Squeeze
    I'm sorry to see this Bob, really sorry. Hopefully you can get it done soon, because it riding Time now. I'll keep my Fingers crossed fer ya !! !!
  17. Squeeze
    I'm glad that i reada Life Sign from Jonas, was wondering about him yesterday.
  18. Squeeze
    How Popular is Your Last Name? Type in your name to see where it ranks and view a profile of those who share it with you. You can also click "Search" to see the 25 most popular names among 150,000 on the list. This database includes all surnames occurring 100 or more times in returns from the 2000 Census. Click “search” to see the entire database or narrow your search by choosing a category. Click column headers on your results page to see information ranked in order. No records found
  19. Squeeze
    Did you try to bypass the hot black Wire ? And again, what's up with the Starter Clutch ? Is the Starter getting hot while the Bike idles ?
  20. Squeeze
    There'S a Snake sitting in the Tree, but what Snake, i don't know , never will. I don't like Snakes at all. May a Boa but, no biting Snakes in my Surrounding.
  21. Squeeze
    All those missing Hoses just fulfil one Purpose .... saving Weight :crackup:
  22. Squeeze
    Those Filters as well as the Canister are Part of the Dyna Stage7 Kit for the Vmax. There's a Engine Breather Hose feeding back to a special Oil Fill Plug from the Canister.
  23. Squeeze
    I'd try to run a Bypass Wire to the black Wire which gets hot. What about your Starter Clutch ? Probably the Clutch is shot and isn't disengaging as it should and therefore, the Starter is acting as a Generator and screwing up normal electrical Function. This has happened before but not with that weird electrical Problems, afaik. Doesn't mean i can't happen.
  24. Squeeze
    A Buddy i mine has a Shark Evoline, he very satisfyed with it. If I'd be in the Market for such a Style of helmet, I'd sure take a close Look at it and buy one if it would fit my Noggin. I like the Style and the Way the Chin Part is folding away.
  25. Squeeze
    Buy or borrow a Bearing Puller Set for blind Holes.
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