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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    I know you think you know about your own bike, but in this case, I do not believe you are correct. All RSVs actually do hold 6 gallons of gas - I have proved this many times, and unless you are just droning along on a flat, straight highway, all six gallons are actually useable. But unless you have vented your filler neck, it is almost impossible to get more than 5.5 gallons into the tank. So it is totally understandable for an owner to think their bike does not hold 6 gallons. A bit more puzzling is disagreement on the reserve amount. Although the book says the reserve is 1 gallon, every RSV I have checked actually goes on reserve with 1.5 gallons left. And this is completely independent of how much gas you actually started with. Of course, it is much easier to believe that the petcock and fuel sensor could be off for the occasional bike than it is that maybe they just made a smaller gas tank once in a while! If your tank filler neck is not vented and you fill up as soon as the bike goes on reserve, you should be able to easily get only 4 gallons of gas in the tank. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? How about removing the petcock and cleaning the screens? Just for reference, I have about 100,000 miles on my 2005, I ALWAYS push way into reserve before I fill up (generally 40 miles on reserve, which I always consider safe), and I have NEVER run out of gas except the few times that I specifically intended to push it beyond the safe limits (and had extra gas with me). Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Do not fail to check for all four cylinders firing. It is unlikely that would be the problem on such a new bike, but you never know. Many owners just dismiss this idea, thinking that they would absolutely know if their bike was only running on three, but it just ain't so. This engine runs fabulously on only three cylinders - the only real indication is terrible gas mileage and 5th gear tends to top out around 85 MPH. I have found people who have been riding on three for months and just couldn't believe it when I told them what their problem was. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    All model years are identical. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Assuming his bike has the Yamahaha lights, the RSV lights are not wired the same as the RSTD; they have independent power and ground lines. So if both lights are going off, the problem must be a wire in the fairing. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    The standard switch for the driving lights on an RSV is installed on the inner fairing next to the aux power jack. But your problem won't be that unless you are always plugging things in and out to accidentally hit it (not easy to do). You have a bad wire connection in the fairing. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    30 or less generally indicates you are running on just three cylinders. Do a fingertip test on cold start. Reach behind each header pipe and touch the pipe right next to the header flange - be quick - as soon as you feel any heat, go to the next one. They should all heat up evenly and very quickly; within 30 seconds you will burn your finger. Also make sure you are riding that engine correctly - you absolutely cannot ride it like a big twin. Keep the revs up and do not shift too soon. Most of the power in this engine is above 3,000 RPM. Just going from memory, 3,000 RPM is around 70 MPH in 5th (that is why you cannot roll on the throttle hard at 55 in 5th). You CAN ride it all day long in 5th gear anywhere from 40 MPH to 120 MPH, just do not try to accelerate too fast in 5th gear unless you are running over 65. If you are shifting too soon and doing any acceleration at all, that thing will perform like a dog and your mileage will suffer. Shifting points - the owner's manual has suggested shifting points in it - but DO NOT EVER try to use them. I have no idea what drugged out fool wrote those down, but this bike CANNOT be ridden in any reasonable fashion with the shift points shown in the owner's manual! For MODERATE acceleration, here are some good shift points to shift INTO the next gear: 40 MPH => 3rd gear 50 MPH => 4th gear 60 MPH => 5th gear Of course, it is fine to upshift sooner if you are done accelerating (or are simply going to keep pace with the usual city traffic). And if you are accelerating hard, you should run it much higher in each gear than those points I gave you above. Remember, 3rd gear will take you all the way to 96 MPH before you hit the rev limiter at 6,000 RPM, so I wouldn't consider hitting 4th until at least 70 if you are trying to move out quickly! Goose
  8. V7Goose
    You talk about smoke from the exhaust about three inches from the cylinder - I assume you mean coming off the pipe near the battery cover? There is a gasket under that clamp where the Y pipe connects to the header flange, so if it is there and the clamp is tight, any smoke in that area has to be coming from something burning on the outside of the pipe. Even on the very unlikely chance that the gasket is missing, you would not be seeing smoke there unless there was so much smoke coming out the tail pipe that you couldn't see the back of the bike! It is certainly very possible that something has gotten lodged under the chrome heat shield. I suggest you simply remove the Y pipe and inspect it - it is very simple to do. On an unrelated note to the smoke, I have found that coils very rarely go bad - it is usually just the plug cap. Did you replace both the coil and the cap, or just the coil? Would you be willing to send me the old coil for testing? I'll be happy to send you the $5 postage for a priority mail envelope. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    That is quite easily fixed with ABS pipe solvent from your hardware store. Just make sure you get something that specifically states ABS - either the universal stuff or specific ABS pipe compound will work fine. It needs to be fresh, so if you have an old can sitting around, do not use it if there is any hint of thickening. This stuff will simply weld the two pieces of plastic back together, and it will be at least as strong as new. No need to scrape anything - the broken ends are clean plastic. Just use plenty of compound on both sides and kind of work it together to mix the melted plastic, then let it sit in the sun for a MINIMUM of four hours. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    What do you mean by "not staying constant"? If it was surging, that indicates a too-rich condition, probably caused by the choke partially on or one of the plungers hung up. The vacuum leak from the caps is generally only significant when the throttle is chopped at high RPM (like shifting or deceleration), which creates a very high vacuum state in the intake, enough to cause the minor leak to get significant. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I do not know what "the" bead seat would be ... seems you have a specific one in mind? I made my own from a seat cover I bought at Walmart. I just mapped out the area I wanted by laying it on the bike seat and marking the outline that I wanted to keep, then studied it for a while to see how the beads were connected. I cut the line several rows of beads outside of the ones I wanted to keep, then unraveled the outside edges to get the final shape, re-weaving some of the excess line back into the final outside row of beads. Took me about 20 or 30 minutes to do the whole thing. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    There generally will not be any other detectible changes. The vacuum leak from old caps is very slight - not even enough to noticeably affect idle. But it IS enough to upset the total fuel burn enough to cause the afterburn on decel. That is because the engine is already set up to run on the ragged edge of too lean to start with (as all new engines are). Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Not sure how much I can help, but I'll tell you what I know and what I did. I know nothing about the 1002 lite or the new N90. I looked at and tried the fit on the N103 and N90 at a local shop. I really cannot find details on the difference between the N103 and N90, but I got the impression that the N90 was a "cheaper" model than the N103 - probably a strong power of suggestion because it is priced significantly less!). I used the Nolan size chart, and my head measurement at 24" falls right between a L and XL (most charts say 24" is XL, but I usually wear a 7 3/8" hat, which is an L). My N100E is a Large, and it feels pretty similar to the N103 in XL except the older one is tighter on the upper forehead. My N102 is an XL, and it was never completely comfortable - I had to actually relieve some of the styrene shell in the upper forehead area to wear it. When I tried the N103 at the shop, surprisingly both the XL and XXL felt pretty similar to me; I guess that is because the liner is very thick and plush. I bought the XL, and it seems to fit perfectly - absolutely no pressure on the forehead like I had with both the N100E and N102, and after wearing it most of the day yesterday in very hot temperatures, it was just as comfortable at the end of the day as the beginning. I HAVE noticed that the chin bar is a bit closer on the N103. It is not a lot closer than the N100E, but I can feel the difference when I jut my chin out - enough so that the mike is always touching my lower lip and the bar just barely clears my chin. Neither of these is a problem for me since I use my mike without a windsock and always keep it against my lip anyway, but it is something to be aware of, and one of the reasons I strongly suggest finding one to try in a shop before ordering on-line! I have seen some internet discussions that say the N90 has significantly more chin room if that is an issue for you. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I am partial to flip front helmets, and I have been using Nolan helmets for a number of years and 100,000 miles, first the N100E, then the N102. I just recently purchased an N103, and if you have either the N100 or N102, you REALLY need to try the N103, it is a great improvement! Combined with the J&M 584 or 629 headset, this thing is fantastic. I really liked my N102 with the integrated headset and extra sun shade that flipped down over the normal shield, but the N103 is WAY more comfortable, and the new internal sun shade is fantastically better than the old external one. I didn't use the dark flip-down sun shade on the N102 very much because the dark top half and light bottom half of the sight pattern was very distracting. With the new internal sun shade on the N103, it works much more like a military flight helmet with a sun shade that covers your eyes like a pair of sunglasses. This give you the darker shield when you want it, and without the distracting dark/light split. And with the choice of also wearing regular sunglasses at the same time, you can easily select four or five different levels of darkness to match whatever conditions you are in without having to stop and change the face shield on the helmet - very flexible and convenient. And if you do want to change the main shield for any reason, it is now one of the easiest ones to change that I have ever used - another great improvement. Nolan was the first company to offer a helmet with an integrated headset capability and the extra dark sun shade, but now lots of others have copied them. Nolan sells their own n-com headset and bluetooth system, but I have never tried them. I buy the J&M unit that is made specifically to fit just like the n-com does. I thought it was nice in the N102, but the updated system in the N103 is way better still. The mounting of the speakers is really slick recessed into the inner liner and behind the screen in the ear piece. Finally, I am very pleased to note that the vents on the N103 work much better than they did on either the N100 or N102. They look pretty much the same in location and size, but I could feel a significant effect from them on my first ride, even in 100 degree temps. And the top vent is soooo much easier to operate now. I only bought this new helmet because I had worn the old one so long that the liner was completely collapsed, allowing the helmet to move around and create hot spots and itches. After seeing how nice the N103 is, I wish I had bought it sooner! Goose Oh, one more thing - Sierra Electronics had the best price on BOTH the helmet and the headset, didn't charge anything extra to mount the headset before shipping, and has always provided me with great service. They shipped this helmet the same day (and I didn't even place the order until 3:00 pm!). http://www.sierra-mc.com/nolan.asp
  15. V7Goose
    I have no idea what you have there, but that picture is of used pads for the front brake. No way I can say if they are from a matched set or two different sets. I have never seen nor heard of any pads that come with one slotted and one not. In general, the slots in brake pads have absolutely nothing to do with the performance or wear rate - they are only there to show when a pad is worn to the point of needing replacement. I will also note that the font brakes on a 2nd gen almost never wear unevenly. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Jake Wilson is normally very good, but also check Southwest Moto Tires. I just ordered a new front tire, and SWMT was about $10 cheaper than Jake Wilson (but the three tires before this one, JW had the best price). Tire came in three days, just like normal, and has a date code of 1711, so at least the RSV size is very fresh! Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I do not do anything to fasten mine - they have just been sitting there through all types of weather for about 100,000 miles with no problem at all. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    It makes a big difference just exactly WHERE "gas running out the bottom of the bike" is seen. Is it running out of the bottom of the left lower fairing, the right lower fairing, or both? But even without knowing that, I'd suggest you start by taking a screwdriver handle and rapping the bottom of the float bowls on each carburetor a couple of times. Now turn the key on and see if the gas has stopped. If it is still getting pumped out the overflow hoses, use that screwdriver to rap the float bowls again while the pump is running. If that does not free the float (or floats), then you can try filling the carbs with a 50/50 mix of Seafoam/gas and let that sit overnight. Here is how to do that: Open the drain screws on each carb (but be sure to close each one when that carb stops draining!). While you have the first carb drain screw still open, take the fuel line off the tank and turn the key on to let the fuel pump clear the line of any existing gas. You may have to cycle the key a couple of times until you hear the pump click and no more gas gets pushed through that carb drain. After you finish draining all four carbs, then mix one cup Seafoam with one cup fresh gas. Now take the fuel line off the tank and put it in the mix and turn the key on. Let the pump fill the carbs until you first see some of the overflow, then shut the key off and forget about it until tomorrow. While filling the carbs with the Seafoam mix, remember that the fuel pump has a timer that will shut it off after a few seconds, even if the carbs are not full, so be sure to cycle the key a couple of times if you need to until either you see the overflow or the pump quits clicking (meaning it is fixed!). Tomorrow, rap the float bowls again and see if the problem is gone. If not, you are pretty much gonna have to pull the carbs and clean them by hand. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    In general, you should not hear the fuel pump unless the bike has been sitting for over a day (often several days). Until enough fuel evaporates from the carb bowls to take the pressure off the line, the fuel pump will not run before the engine is started. If you regularly hear even a single click after the engine has only been shut off for a few minutes, that means you have a problem with the fuel supply - probably dirty fuel filter. The only SURE test to always hear the fuel pump click is to either pull the fuel line off the carb input or open one of the carb drains. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    I'm sorry, but the words you use just don't make any sense to me - specifically "shooting gas out of the carbs." Could you be a bit more specific on just where you see the gas? If you have a stuck float, the gas would be running down the inside of the front lower cowlings below the air filter intakes. Most new owners do not even know that the overflow hoses from the carbs are routed up there, so is seems unlikely that someone would describe that as "shooting gas out of the carbs." But I really cannot think of any other place around the carbs that you would see gas leaking unless you had some really strange problems, and "shooting out" certainly sounds like a strong stream of gas, not just a leak. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Mufflers generally will not affect this problem unless they are essentially straight pipes which allow free back flow of fresh air into the header. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Your problem is quite common - LOTS of discussion of this in many older threads. Most common causes include dirty carbs, bad carb sync, vacuum leak, and exhaust leaks. I'd bet your carbs are both dity and out of sync, AND that you have a vacuum leak. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Yes, just dump the oil out the top (be sure to pump the forks several times to expel all the oil). The shop manual actually has decent coverage of this. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    There are no separate seals on the steering head - the lower bearing comes with a rubber seal. There are no drain holes on the forks. Do not try to remove the lower bolt - that holds in the strut, and you must have a special tool to reach inside the fork and hold the strut to properly torque it. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    For normal riding with moderate acceleration, those are perfect gear choices. But if you are trying to step out quickly or show somebody what that bike can do, you should not even consider leaving THIRD until you hit 80 (you won't hit the rev limiter in 3rd until 96MPH)! Goose
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