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V7Goose
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Everything posted by V7Goose
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2008 rstd cruise control not working
V7Goose replied to bjstone's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Do you have tassels on the clutch and brake levers? Goose -
I would not expect that combination to cause any problems. Personally, I am going the other way - an E3 on the rear and an Venom on the front. I currently have E3s front and rear, and I have really grown to hate the E3 front tire. It did not last near as long as my Venom front tires have, it has cupped a lot, and it did not retain a good rounded profile like the Venoms always have. The result, now that the front E3 is down to the last 1/4 of its life, is that it is beginning to handle very similar to one of the HORRIBLE stock Brickstone Excedra front tires! YECH!@!! I generally buy tires from either Motorcycle Superstore, Southwest Moto Tires, or Jake Wilson, whichever is cheapest a the time. Goose
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Shifting w toe hard, heel easy
V7Goose replied to Sandbagger's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Lubricate the shift linkage. Goose -
This is a good start, but you loose all the historical data. I just keep the laptop open and record date, time, shift speed, RPM, and road condition in a spreadsheet. This way I can run analytical reports and get a historical perspective on average gear use. Of course it does get a bit exciting when trying to enter that data while kicking down twice and trying to pass a tandem semi in the rain! But hey, every system has some flaws, right? Goose
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I have no idea what manual you are looking at, but the actual Yamaha Owner's Manual for the 2008 XVZ13TFX© and XVZ13TFSX© (includes California models) specifically says this on page 3-11: "Your Yamaha engine has been designed to use regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number [(R+M)/2] of 86 octane or higher" Doesn't leave much room for interpretation... Goose
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I have never considered the front brakes on my RSVs to be weak. Since we do not often see people complaining about this, I do not consider it a typical problem with this bike. On the other hand, the rear brake is considered too touchy by many owners - very easy to lock up that rear tire - TOO easy in a panic situation. Can't say if your issue is a problem with your bike or simply that you expect something different than most of us do. I'd suggest you try and find another owner to get together with and compare the bikes. Goose
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I have not heard of this test, nor do I believe the stated results. This oft-repeated claim is nothing but pure hokum. Facts are easy to find by anyone interested in doing even minor research. Here are a couple of links: http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/regular_vs_premium.html http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=fact-or-fiction-premium-g http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2003-07-30-premiumgas_x.htm Note that the ONLY references to any loss of power on regular fuel all refer to engines that are specifically designed for a higher octane. Usually this comes from an engine with knock sensors and electronic timing adjustments or variable valve timing. The reason an engine like that can loose some peak power with non-premium fuel is because the engine controls dial back the timing advance to stop the knocking. But like we said above, the owners manual tells you this engine is specifically designed for 87 R+M octane fuel. So there is NO improved economy and NO reduction in engine wear if you choose to spend the extra money on premium. Goose
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Freebird's Maintenance Day Parts/Accessories Thread
V7Goose replied to michellea's topic in Watering Hole
I know you are planning on having these, but just wanted to reiterate the need - don't know how many sets you can sell to 100+ bikes, but we had 7 bikes last Saturday in Dallas and had to go out to find 3 sets of EBC FA123HH pads! That suggests you could sell a whole case of them in Ohio. Goose -
EBC brand, Double-H type, part number FA123HH, for the rear.
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Your bike is specifically rated for use with REGULAR fuel (87 R+M octane). Unless your engine knocks on regular fuel, use of any higher octane has absolutely ZERO value at all (except to the oil companies taking your money). It will NOT run smoother, you will NOT get better fuel economy, you will NOT get more power, etc. etc. etc. And since your engine is rated for 87 octane fuel, it will NOT knock when using it unless there is something wrong with your bike. And in the Rocky Mountains where they sell 85 octane regular, you will find that your bike runs fine on that, too. Goose
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It seems that not all new owners of these bikes are getting the timely warning about how fast the stock rear brake pads wear out. Last Saturday we had three relatively new owners show up at the mini maintenance day who had not heard this - all three had between 12K-17K miles on their bikes, and the rear pads were shot on ALL of their bikes! At least two were actually metal-to-metal on the inside pad - can't say for certain on the third - his looked to be down that far when I inspected it, but I did not see the pads changed. Anyway - consider this just another attempt to get the word out to anyone who has not heard it yet - the stock Yamahaha rear brake pads will be GONE by 12,000 miles (especially the inside pad, which always wears faster)! If your 2nd gen bike has less than 20,000 miles on it and you do not KNOW that the rear pads have been changed to something other than stock Yamahaha pads, check them NOW! Goose (This is not a problem with the front pads - even stock front pads can be expected to last 40-50,000 miles.)
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Trying to fill the tank to the exact level every time is obviously very important for accurately calculating fuel mileage. And YAMAHAHA has deliberately made it very difficult to fill the tank higher than the bottom of the filler neck. Many of us have vented the neck to facilitate getting more gas in. You can find this discussed in many older threads, including here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36392&highlight=punch And as mentioned in that thread, there is also a tech article on exactly how to do it. Goose
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I make it a point to buy my gas only from places that sell gas.
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Well, the connector on the cable is standard for CB or military HF radio antenna output, but I have never seen that spooky looking spiky phallus like thing before! Goose
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OK Boss, you win the Kewpie doll This year - haven't seen any other significant interest in other specific projects, so let's do your steering head bearings on Friday. How 'bout we start about 11:00 am? That means we will probably get to the actual steering head (after stripping off the fairing) somewhere in the early afternoon - about 1300, allowing for plenty of beer time! Goose
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That must mean he wasn't really there. Wow, I guess that's proof that these bikes are actually geared correctly! Who woulda thunk it. . . LOL:big-grin-emoticon: Goose
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I cannot explain your results from this test - too many variables and I wasn't there. But I can tell you that I performed such a test many years ago on my 05 RSV, and the results were very different - MUCH lower fuel mileage for an entire tank of all freeway riding in 4th. Your test might have been flawed; my test might have been flawed; both tests might have been flawed. Who knows. I have done a lot of side-by-side comparisons with other RSV riders, and I am convinced that the ONLY way to get a valid test like this is to do some long distance riding with someone else on the same bike. Compare careful full-up amounts between both bikes for several tanks with normal riding so you know how the two bike/rider combinations compare in efficiency, then have just one of them change something, like never using 5th, and do the same side-by-side comparison for at least one full tank. That is the only way to remove all the other variables such as traffic, wind, road condition, elevation, etc. Goose
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No, it is not simply disrespect for the law, it is disrespect for the safety and lives of others. I have held my tongue on this thread, but just cannot do it any more. In my opinion, those disgusting excuses for human beings that exhibit the behavior shown in the pictures have absolutely no business in our society. It makes no difference if they are riding a bike or driving a big rig, or anything in between. I believe that anyone who deliberately crosses the line in a dangerous situation should be prosecuted for attempted murder and locked up for at least ten years. I also believe that anyone who does it due to stupidity and inability to control their vehicle should loose their license for at least five years and also be publicly humiliated. OK, off rant and back to my hole . . . Goose
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Cylinder Fin cover gromets
V7Goose replied to Condor's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The part you are interested in is #9 on the Crankcase parts breakdown. 90338-11152-0 4ea Goose -
It only takes one accidental tap of that center button to do it - glad you got it fixed so easily! Ride safe Goose
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Absolutely no way to do anything more than just guess without more info. You did not tell us if both tires are wearing out that fast, or just the rear tire. You did not say if there was any strange wear patterns on the tire. If it is something wrong with the bike, you would almost certainly be able to see something odd - feathering on parts of the tread blocks, cupping, uneven wear spots, etc. If it is you instead of the bike, you would have to have some really pronounced bad riding habits that would be evident to any riding buddies. How often do the tires break loose, and in what circumstances? If you are constantly on the brakes, you would have to be burning though a set of rear pads in 5,000 km too. If you do a lot of hard engine braking with early down shifts, you should have a darned sore neck for all the jerking back and forth. And if you just like to race from stoplight to stoplight, then you are riding the wrong bike! Goose
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Did you accidentally toggle the headsets on instead of the speakes? Goose
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"There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy."
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Could be either, but after you drain the carbs, you will know for certain it should be clicking. In normal use, it will only click when you turn the key on if it has been sitting for several days. This is because the carbs will be full when you shut it off, and they will not need more gas until quite a bit has evaporated. If you use Seafoam that regularly (and you are using the correct amount), I'd bet on either your pump or the fuel filter. If it was the filter, you would still be hearing the clicking. The bike will run fine on simple gravity feed as long as you have at least a couple of gallons of gas in there. Just run a straight line from the petcock to the fuel inlet at the right rear carb near the frame. Goose
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Only two possibilities - either your carburetors were not full, or the pilot jets are gummed up. Open the bowl drains to verify they have gas - might as well let them all drain to flush any contaminates that might be in there. Then close the drains and turn the key on - wait for the clicking to stop, then cycle the key off and on again. Keep doing this until no more clicks when you turn the key on - then your carbs will all be full. Should take about three cycles. Now start it. If the symptoms are the same, your pilot jets are the problem. Possible to fix this with something like Seafoam, but much better choice is to pull the carbs and clean the jets properly with carb cleaner and compressed air (NEVER stick ANYTHING in a carb jet). The problem with trying to clean them by just adding cleaner to the gas is that jets can ONLY be cleaned while the gas is running through them. Since they do not sit submerged in the fuel, if even one of them is completely blocked, it will never get clean. Goose