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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Well, I know what I am about to say will not sit well with all those folks who swear by whatever extra special super priced battery is getting the current press, but I'm a bit different. My batteries ALL last at least six years (usually more), but that requires proper monitoring of the battery load and charge condition at all times. The standard Yuasa battery that comes with the bike is just fine, as are most direct replacements with the same model number. I consider even 10 cents more for some "special" battery with a fancy name totally wasted money. Last year, Sam's (and therefore Walmart) were selling a no-name battery that turned out to be a real Yuasa when I opened it up to check. When I looked a few months ago, they were selling Interstate. I'm not a huge fan of Interstate, but neither do I have any strong reason to avoid them. Frankly, if I needed to buy a battery for my RSV today, I would buy whatever was on the shelf at Sam's. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    As others have already said, the most likely cause is the battery cables. Battery terminals often develop a hard glass-like coating on the lead surface that must be scraped with a knife to expose bright lead for a good connection (and the cable ends too). The problem can also be internal to the battery, but that does not often clear up after it starts. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Made it home to Texas from MD last night around 11:30pm. We took it easy on Sunday and just did 300 miles on back roads down to Lexington, KY. But Some family issues came up that I need to take care of, so yesterday we just kept riding - ended up doing the full 1,000 miles straight through in exactly 16 hours. It got prretty darned hot in the afternoon coming through those nasty rice fields in Missouri and Arkansas, but not really all that bad if you keep drinking lots of water. I've been riding long distances for 40 years, so the occasional 1,000 + day is no big thing, but Al has only been riding for the last six years since we bought the Venture, and this is the third unplanned iron but she has done - quite a few 500-700 mile days, but we do try to avoid the 1,000! I'm continually amazed at how she happily sits on that bike for 16 or even 24 hours straight and always wants to ride more when I suggest we stop for the night - what a partner!! It was great to see y'all in Ohio - lookin' forward to next year. Now, who wants to ride to Phoenix with me tomorrow? Gosse (and Mother Goose)
  4. V7Goose
    I have no idea what kind of bike you have, how old it is, how many miles, or how long you have owned it - all of that information would be necessary to give you any good information. Based on the little bit you have told us, the fuel starvation could simply be clogged screens on the petcock inside the tank. The smell of gas could be high float levels, poor line connection to the new fuel filter, stuck float/leaking needle valve, etc. etc. Your declining fuel mileage could be lots of things, but most common would be a dead cylinder. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    All four coils have a two-color wire and a solid color wire. The two-color wire is the same for all (might be red with green tracer, but I really can't remember and I'm not gonna look it up right now), but the solid color is specific to each, and that is the correct terminal for a tach trigger. The one most commonly used is the top coil under the tank - connect to the top terminal. Make sure you have a tach that will work for a Hardly with a standard dual-fire ignition (one pulse per revolution). Even though our bikes have four coils, each one has a wast spark on the exhaust stroke. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Sounds normal for this bike. Without trying to carefully understand your exact post and comment on the specifics of which cam is which, I can tell you that when you follow the manual to find TDC, two of the cylinders have the cam lobes pointed up but away from each other, and two of them have the cam lobes pointed up but towards each other. I also seem to recall that the cam alignment marks are quite confusing with two marks very close together that are not well defined. Also be aware that the Yamaha shop manual is FULL of errors, some of them quite significant. I do not recall if there are any errors on this particular subject, but if something doesn't seem right, research it more before you believe the manual (just like you are doing here!). Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Pulling the carbs is a big job on this bike the first time, but not really hard. The valves, however, are a really big job. I have a detailed writeup in the tech library on doing the valves. There are a number of options for carb synchronizers - lots of folks love the Morgan Carb Tune, but I think it is a terrible tool. I prefer the mechanical four-gauge set you can get for about $50. There are lots of threads here about the two tools, including links for where to buy them. Use advanced search and look for posts by me with the word "vacuum". A chemical like Seafoam can only work while the treated fuel is being actively run through the carbs, so letting it sit overnight does not have a lot of benefit. There is some good if the treated fuel has actually been run through the carbs a little to get the deposits wet, but the real cleaning is only happening while the engine is running. The jets are very easy to take out of the carbs once you get them off and on the bench - just pull off the float bowls. Be sure to read my tech article on properly setting the float levels, absolutely GUARANTEED that your floats are set way too high right now. And be careful to not mix up the jets! All four pilot jets are the same, but the four carbs have three different sizes of main jets, so best to only pull one out at a time. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    My wife and I did 1325 straight through from Pigeon Forge to Fort Worth in December a couple of years ago - I think it took us about 26 hours riding two-up. And Ponch and I "accidentally" rode about 1200 straight through coming home from Don's maintenance day last year! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    At a minimum, you have carb problems. Could be a dead cylinder too, but let's not jump to that yet. But you need to face it - an 8 year old bike iwth only 3,000 miles has done a lot of sitting and rotting - your fuel system is a mess. From your description, you definitely have some pilot jets at least partially plugged. Seafoam is good stuff, but when it is as bad as you have, it will take a LONG time to clear it up with that, if it ever does. I really suggest you pull the carbs and take the jets out for specific cleaning. Make sure to dump all the old fuel and use only fresh, and change that fuel filter! And make sure you find/read some of the threads about how to ride that bike - you MUST ride it differently than the twin you are used to. It needs lots of revs. A search on "limiter" should find the threads. Here is one to start with: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58942&highlight=limiter Goose
  10. V7Goose
    You cannot accurately check the forks unless you have a gauge with a zero-loss chuck. For proper handling, it is critical that the forks be EXACTLY the same - even 1/2 lb difference makes a noticeable change in handling. 0 lbs works perfect for most riders, but spirited cornering or max load will benefit from 5 - 7 lbs. The HD pump is just the Progressive pump with their logo - that is the most common one we use.
  11. V7Goose
    Yes, 7 lbs is MAX on the front forks. If you do not have a small hand pump for suspension with a zero-loss chuck to check/set the pressure, then you need to just let all the air out until you get one. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Clogged fuel filer or screens in the tank pickup. Goose
  13. V7Goose

    computer help

    V7Goose replied to rod's topic in Watering Hole

    If you are having significant problems, I would not try to upgrade the computer. You are going in the right direction to run the HP recovery first. The recovery is available through the Start menu - probably in a folder labeled HP. If you cannot find it, go to the HP web site, enter y our computer model number in the support section, and search for recovery - all the information will be there. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Y'all are too kind - y're making me blush! I'm very glad I was able to provide information that you found useful. I'm not much for the chit chat stuff, but I do enjoy technology and mechanical things. Seems like e4verything is a puzzle to be worked out, which I enjoy. But after I find the answer, I like to share it too. Ride safe! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    As many folks have already stated, the missing bolts are a very common issue - absolutely no excuse for such shoddy work, but it is something we know about. Even if the bolts are in there, the tabs that connect to the ends of the windshield bracket WILL break on all of these bikes - just a stupid design. See the article in the tech library here for a fix: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20293 If anything at all is broken, Yamaha will replace it all under warranty. But those outside tabs will just break again. My choice was to not bother with a fairing replacement just for the outside tabs, since I would need to do the same modification even on a new one. But I certainly would have demanded it if anything else was broken where the windshield is attached, like other folks have found. I do not think you bought the wrong bike. These things are absolutely reliable and good for many hundreds of thousands of miles. But there are a few idiotic design points that the owner needs to know about, as well as certain bolts that need to be periodically checked. It is all documented on this site, so just keep reading and your love of the bike will continue to grow! Personally, I have about 100,000 miles on my RSV, and I have no interest in replacing it for a long time. If something were to happen to it, there is absolutely NO OTHER BIKE MADE TODAY that I would even consider; my replacement would be another RSV, either new or used. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I use the ShowChrome 5-Function digital meter which mounts perfectly between the two handlebar riser caps (actually on top of them with velcro). It has both an internal and external thermometer; the sensor for the internal temp is wherever the meter is mounted, and the external sensor is on a long wire. I have it glued with a spot of hot-melt to the bottom of the brake line T right next to the right front fork - always out of the sun and in full draft of the air when moving. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    It all depends on what it is made of - I know the chrome windscreen strip is ABS, and I have repaired those with perfect results. I have not had to do one of the signal rings, but I assumed it was made of the same material. It is important to realize that Pipe "glue" is not an actual glue - it is a solvent that welds the pieces together by melting the surface of the plastic. All of the plastic I have found on a Royal Star is ABS, and you must make sure to have a pipe compound that is specifically labeled for ABS. The universal stuff is fine, but it MUST say ABS on it, not just PVC or CPVC. To test if a specific piece of plastic can be repaired that way, just put a drop of the pipe compound on the bare plastic (NOT on the chrome) and rub it with a toothpick. If you can get a little bit of the melted plastic on the end of the toothpick, then it can be repaired as strong as new. To get a successful repair you must have fresh solvent that has not started to thicken with age, you must use plenty on both pieces, when you put the pieces together, a little wiggle to mix the melted surface together is good, and most importantly, you must let the part COMPLETELY cure so all of the solvent is gone from the plastic. At a minimum this will take about four hours in the sun, but I like to let it sit overnight. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    You can repair that ring just fine with a bit of ABS pipe glue. Use plenty on both sides, hold the pieces together tightly for thirty seconds or so to fix the position, then set in a warm place to dry for a minimum of 4 hours. Should last forever, and often the joint will not even show. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I do not know the answer to this, but I would like to. I suspect that finding a standard auto replacement would not be a problem. The opening temp is probably stamped right on the thermostat - just pull it out and take it down to your local auto parts store. For reference, the RSV thermostat has an opening temp of 180 F. That is probably the same as your bike, but I do not know that for a fact. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Well THAT ain't gonna work - if it's pourin', I'm liable to just hang out in his garage for a few days 'till it stops!
  21. V7Goose
    I suspect Don screwed up and only asked for good weather through Saturday (the official day of the event) - it looks like we gonna get wet on Sunday. I know he is busy and all, so the mistake is understandable, but jeeze, it seems like ya can't count on anybody these days! Or maybe it was not a mistake? Maybe he just don't give a snot, since he don't haveta ride home!?!?!
  22. V7Goose
    First, I'll just say right up front that I do not trust ANY dealer to clean carbs these days. I think a lot of the kids are too ignorant about carbs, and when you consider the amount of time it takes to pull the carbs from this bike, a lot of shops will just flat lie about doing it. Trust, but verify, is always good advice! So even if you do not want to do this work yourself (a good 4-gauge tool will cost you about $50), it would be smart for you to pick up a cheap vacuum gauge and test the vacuum on any cylinder (they should all be the same if it is in sync). You can probably get a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about $10, or maybe even borrow one for free from an auto parts store. You cannot sync the carbs with just one gauge, but you CAN get a quick idea if the carbs are clean and functioning with just one. The process is unbelievably simple - you just pull the rubber cap off one of the vacuum nipples below any carb and connect the vacuum gauge, then start the bike and let it idle. The gauge will jump like crazy without any restriction to dampen the vacuum pulses, but for this test, all you need to do is squeeze the hose almost shut until the gauge needle just wiggles a bit. The reading at idle should be 280mm or 11" - anything below 10" indicates a problem. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Certainly sounds like uneven cylinder power to me - a carb sync is a mandatory first step. But you have a 5+ year old machine with only 6,000 miles on it - it has done a HUGE amount of sitting and rotting. I'd bet your carbs are a mess inside. If the sync process does not show at least 10.5" Hg, then bet your primary circuits are in bad shape. In that case, your best bet is to pull the carbs and clean them properly. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Nobody has ever suggested that the Yamaha RSV steering bearings are lifetime lube - quite the contrary. As for installing a grease fitting on the RSV frame - I personally do not support that, but if an individual owner decides that they personally want one (or 2, 10, 12, etc.) grease fittings installed in their frame, well, that won't hurt anything as long as they do not contaminate the bearings with metal shavings. I do feel that two or more is absolutely pointless, as it will in no way change the amount of grease you can inject or the distribution of that grease. But just like adding a single grease fitting, adding 10 more also will not hurt anything if done correctly. But kinda like Don said, all that is just my opinion, and anybody is free to have a different one! Goose
  25. V7Goose
    The fuse for the accessory socket is behind the lower right front cowling. Goose
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