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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Now Don, that's not nice at all . . . Some people just don't want to hear it from me, so pointing it out is kinda like forcing them to swallow their cod liver oil! Besides, Ponch is WAY nicer than me. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    I was responding to both. Despite the OP's insistence that he already moved every cable every way possible, the problem IS, in fact, cable position. I don't often get so 'positive' about a specific problem without being able to actually touch the bike in question, 'cause it is way too easy to get fooled by the way people describe things. But nevertheless, I know this bike too well to just ignore this problem and let the owner suffer unless he wants to do so. Of course the owner is free to just spend his time or money looking for other things, and I hope he finds it that way. But he won't. The problem is cable position. And I know he has heard me now, so I'll back out of this thread and not respond anymore unless he asks me directly. Here's hoping I'm wrong and he gets it fixed quickly and easily no mater what it is! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    This is VERY dependent on what tires you have and how heavily the bike is loaded. And independent of the specific tires, I have found that an over-inflated rear tire makes the RSV unstable in long, fast sweepers if it is heavily loaded and there are any bumps in the road. If you have Brickstone tires, the best tire pressure is zero (the most effective thing you can do with those POS skins is to stick 'em with an ice pick). If you have Dunlop E3s, the max pressure for the rear is 40, and that is where I would keep that tire all the time. Front tire abut 34 if all my riding was solo and moderate load, 38 for loaded touring. The Avon Venom rear tire has an 80H load/speed rating (do NOT buy the V rated version of the same tire), and a max sidewall pressure of 50. In my experience, keeping 50 in this tire produces very poor handling under high load, but lowering it to 48 cures all ills. If all my riding was solo and unloaded, I'd probably run the rear Avon at 45, but for mixed riding or heavy touring, I'd just always keep it at 48 - never higher. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    The person you were talking to is nothing but a dishonest LIAR and THIEF. I cannot even be charitable enough to consider that maybe he was just misinformed - if that was the case, he would have responded to your concern by actually looking up the Yamaha service interval for you. Do not let dishonest people anywhere near your bike. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    It is the wire position, guaranteed. There is no point in trying to ad any chokes or condensers to this bike like was done with cars back in the 70s, they just are not needed. Move the spark plug leads for the front cylinders, particularly the left front. goose
  6. V7Goose
    No, this is not correct. Although a floating caliper can hang up on the rails and cause just such a problem, that is not what is going on here. On the 2nd gens, both FRONT brakes are floating calipers, but they wear perfectly evenly. The REAR brake, however, has active pistons on both pads, so there is absolutely no logic that can explain why the majority of them wear heavily on the inside only. But we know they do, so we learn to watch them. Stock pads rarely last more than 10,000 miles on the rear, but EBC HH pads tend to go at least 35,000 miles in the same calipers. I have always kinda wanted to do some research and experimentation to try and find the cause/cure for this anomaly, but since the HH pads do provide acceptable life, it has just always been a lot easier to simply use them and leave the question unanswered! Goose
  7. V7Goose
    I agree, sometimes they do need to be changed - I just ain't never found that time yet. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    A VMax does not need to be faster, but it DOES need to be prettier (tried to dig my own eyeballs out first time I ever had the misfortune to look at one). You know any way to do that short of putting it in a crusher? Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Yes, those are the correct Avon tires for the RSV - AM41 front and AM42 rear in stock sizes. And no, I have never changed out a valve stem on an RSV, not on my own bikes in 120,000 miles, and not on the 30-50 others on which I have changed tires. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    I know this is a repeat of some other fairly recent threads, but I noticed that Pioneer Motorsports has EBC HH pads for sale in the classified for a very reasonable price, so I thought I would mention this again. I am sorry that we did not make a point of organizing the inspection of the rear pads on all the 2nd gens at Don's recent maintenance day - it only takes about 1 minute to open the saddlebag lid and reach behind it to pop off that plastic cover and inspect the pads with a little flashlight - No need for any tools! I want to stress the need to do this - the last time I had 5 RSVs/RSTDs together before Don's maintenance day, none of the owners had even given a thought to their brake pads with less than 20,000 miles on their bike, but THREE of the five bikes were already metal-to-metal on the inside pad! Please do yourself a favor and make this quick little inspection - new pads are sooo easy to change, and new rotors are sooo expensive. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    There is no circuit in the ignition switch that would only affect the radio. A good check would be power to either of the two aux power jacks - if they are hot when the radio is not working, then it cannot be the ignition switch. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Can't be there - unfortunately I don't think I will be able to leave Phoenix in time. But I do have a couple of suggestions - When you buy spray carb cleaner - stick with Gumout brand - it has shown the least amount of problems ruining rubber parts for me. And DO absolutely bring at least one big can! If your left rear carb shows a noticeable amount of grunge on the outside as most do, you will use most of the can just cleaning off the outside of the carbs before you want to open them (spray down, wait a few minutes, then blast with compressed air, repeat). I like to do this in a big metal drawer from an old refrigerator 'cause you will have a lot of oily gunk left, but a wash tub or trash can will work nicely too. Try to avoid too much spray on the taped up wires - it will eat the tape. When you have the carbs open, I suggest you ALWAYS remove the pilot jets and soak them in a bit of spray cleaner in a little cup while you are setting the floats, then blow them out with compressed air. You can tell if they are perfectly clean by looking through them to a bright light - the tinny hole should look PERFECTLY round - if you even think it might not be a perfectly round spot of light, trust me, it is NOT clean; soak and blow some more. I didn't always do this in the past, but frankly, with today's gas, many many pilot jets are partially clogged even if you think all is running fine. And since you already have the carbs open on the bench, it just makes sense. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Personally I will never never buy a Metzeler product. Their tires are way too poorly made and dangerous for me (documented very well on this site in many many threads), so making such a decision would simply defy logic with the other choices available. Some people continue to maintain those tires are wonderful, and they have the same right to love them that I do to hate them - I just point to the ample evidence to support my opinion. Furthermore, I would not knowingly do business with any company that insists that 100% of their customers who have problems with their products are fools, idiots, and liars. But each of us gets to spend our money with whomever we want. But as for the size upgrade - about 50% of the people I have heard of who tried this with Metzeler tires on a 2nd gen have had problems with bad rubbing on the drive shaft housing, including one who bought the tire and had it mounted by Metzeler at a rally - his tire rubbed so bad he had to go back and force them to exchange it for a tire of the correct size (only possible because THEY told him it would work in the first place). I do not know why only some of them rub - maybe it is the same shoddy manufacturing that allows huge chunks of the tread to fly off? Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Check the backup fuse in the main fuse box on left side of bike. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    So maybe, just maybe, based on the fair treatment you received from this establishment, you should call them a DEALERSHIP instead of a stealership? Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I have never touched that particular bike; in fact, I do not even know if it has carbs or FI, but it sounds like a lean-miss to me. Considering how lean engines are set up to run at idle now to meet federal regs, this might just be normal operation for that bike. But a vacuum leak could cause it too. If it has carbs, this would be very easy to fix. If it has FI, you will need a new map to change the mixture, or maybe it has a bad O2 sensor? Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I didn't see anything in the OP to support that conclusion. 35 is a very reasonable speed to cruise in 3rd, as is 65 in 5th. In fact, even 35 in 5th is just fine as long as all you are doing is holding steady speed on level road, like in town traffic. He did not say he was trying to accelerate at all. And even if he was accelerating, i wouldn't call that feeling a "buzz" - it would be much more of a shake and pound. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Wise move (ordering new jets, not sticking something in there). Also important to make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    JCW still sells shields for those old antiques. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Yes, a plugged pilot jet could easily cause that - At anything below 1/2 throttle, the pilot jet does provide a noticeable amount of fuel along with the main jet, so if one pilot jet is significantly clogged, that jug will not be pulling equally hard even if your sync is perfect. The pilot circuit is actually ALWAYS providing a fixed amount of fuel, it just becomes an insignificant percentage of the total fuel over 1/2 throttle. Why did you order new jets? Cleaning them is quite simple with a little spray cleaner and compressed air. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    2" is a lot of gap there, and it is not right. Both left and right rear pipes should have the same size gap at the top of the heat shield, and it is about the width of my finger tip. There is no piece that could be missing, and the heat shield goes all the way down to touch the other one at the Y junction, so it can't be positioned wrong. It sounds like the heat shield was just made wrong. Your bike is still new - take it back to a dealer and tell them you want it fixed under warranty. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Well, everything certainly points to fuel flow, but you know that from the beginning. And you proved it by turning the petcock to reserve and it ran. Knowing that you have some history with this bike means that the recent smell of fuel is probably something actually different instead of just the first time that you happened to notice it. As for the fuel pump - it could be weak, or it could be having a hard time getting gas; it certainly should NOT be making noise right after the bike is turned off and back on. And if it is running for 10 seconds or so, then I don't think it is shutting off from full carb bowls, just from the normal time limit if you don't have any gas (or it is shut off). Either the gas is just being pushed through the carbs, which is doubtful or you would have seen it by now, or the fuel is having a hard time getting to the pump. My bet is still on the petcock screens inside the tank. Next, I would focus the fuel pump. I wouldn't mess with anything else until you get it working so that there is no fuel pump action after the key is shut off and then back on. Then let it sit overnight and see if the pump is STILL quiet when you turn the key on - that will verify that the carbs are holding fuel and keeping the pressure up. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I wouldn't know - try giving us a hint of what bike you have - maybe somebody can actually respond based on their personal knowledge of that machine. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Glad you finally got the bad jet out. You have received lots of good advice in this thread, and I only want to re-emphasize a couple of things. The symptoms you described (won't run off choke, won't accept throttle) are absolute CLASSIC for blocked pilot jets. And one caution: poking anything harder than a broom straw into a jet is the worst thing you can do - those jets are very soft brass, and any other metal will damage them instantly. Just pull the jets and soak them in a small amount of spray carb cleaner for an hour or so, then blow through them with compressed air - repeat as necessary. You can tell when they are clean just by looking through them to a bright light - clear jets will be a perfectly circular little spot of light. If you think that light spot looks a little flat or funny shaped, then it ain't clean - repeat! Goose
  25. V7Goose
    I have no disagreement with you at all - I was simply saying that I thought the best choice for a replacement battery was whatever best price you can find for any standard AGM battery. Sounds like that is just what you did. And I don't much care about Sam's or any other store - I have simply found that Sam's has decent prices on the bike batteries. I assume Walmart would be the same, but I have never looked. Goose
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