Smilerider

Ok, I just got done doing the install of the Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch kit and the Barnett pressure plate. I used a Harbor freight 1/4" torque wrench to tighten the bolts. I had it set for the 70 inch pounds. I have no way to test if the wrench is actually accurate. If the torque was off by say 5 inch pounds more, would that cause any issues? I see the comments about not over torquing and now I'm concerned since I can't verify it. I have not yet finished the oil change or started the bike since installing the parts tonight. Plus what bad things would occur?

Thank you for the continued advice and help. I have yet to start this project as work has kept me busy 6 days a week. I had planned to do this before the weekend but other projects took over. I'm regretting it with the weather so nice and having my first 3 days off since last June. Maybe tomorrow I can tackle this project and give her a rest ride

Thank you both for responding. I also purchased the Barnett Spring Conversion Kit as well as a new gasket. The only thing I'm not finding is the retaining wire that I see some say to break or cut to remove. Once I have that, then I'll be able to tackle this project

It is time to replace my clutch, so I ordered the Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Kit with Steels. When I opened it up I notice that none of the clutch plates have any reference marks on them. I have watched several videos on here and YouTube showing the process to replace and all mention and show these notches. It appears that the new plates must be put back in the same way. My question is shouldn't my new plates have these marks? How would I know I installed them correctly in the correct position without said notches? Thanks for any assistance JM

Last year I discovered that the right side windshield bracket mounting tab on the inner fairing was broken. I took this to the dealer and after some back and forth with Yamaha they finally replaced the inner fairing.. Well I have only ridden it about 5000 miles since then and well again the tab is broken off.. This time however bother sides have snapped which means the bracket is no longer supported by the fairing.. I have no idea why this is happening and can't wait for the impending struggle to get it covered a second time under warranty. Any ideas ?? Thanks JM

As I'm outside tinkering on the bike I thought of a couple more questions regarding the tire pressure. Are you using the 40 -41 for 2up riding as well, and is this just for the E3 tires or are you suggesting this for all tires?

As I have sat and read all of these posts, I am wondering where you are getting the higher tire pressures from? Where has the 40 -41 numbers come from? I have installed an E3 on the rear and have been keeping it at the recommend pressure based on the sticker. I have been happy with the tire except in rain. It appears to hydroplane and become more slippery when wet. This has been a noticeable change over past tires.. So much more noticeable that it is a bit uncomfortable when I hit heavier rain. I have no problem adjusting the pressures to see what happens, but do you believe this will address more wet handling or make it worse? I have started to see a slight cup (very minor) to the tire and am currently at 9500 miles. I also ride solo 98% of the time(this is an issue and probably deserves is own post!!! LOL) and weight about 180lbs. I have a metzler on the front (11,000 miles) and have had odd handling since around 2500miles (again a separate issue). I have just started to look to replace the front with the E3 but the wet weather issues with the rear has me concerned. I also have 0lbs in the front forks. I should also mention that I have a sport bike as well, and on that bike i am running the tires 5-7lbs less than sticker.. This is help the stickiness and keeping the tires warmer during use. This has made a huge difference in how well it handles and how hard I can take the corners.

Thank you all for responding and helping me out here. Could someone tell me where I find these drains? Do I need to remove the tank to do this or can the carb tube be drained without any extra work? JM

If this was a gas only issue, would it have done this throughout that day even trying to start it I'll say 10 more times without luck? I really wasn't sure what was going on and well I thought coils? or something else? The bike hadn't sat long prior to this and honestly I can't tell you now whether I had filled up prior to that or not. I certainly just want to feel safe and content that I will make my trips to here there and everywhere and back. I ride up north in NY and without cell, and even radio reception I don't want to be stuck..

Thanks for responding! I know the two right cylinders weren't firing because there was no heat and after running it for a bit there was fuel coming out the tail pipe. Of course the bike would barely run (and I do mean barely) when this happened. I have replaced the gas, and have treated it as well. I will drain the carbs as you have suggested. I took the bike out for about 40miles without issue, but it just isn't sitting well with me that it did it in the first place.. Since the one and only day it hasn't worked right, it seems to be starting better than ever.. Running better than ever, and seems strong.. Only about 37,000 miles on her, so I expect her to be good. :-)

This happened on one day only and I'm not really sure what or where to start looking for a problem. Early this past winter I started the bike and only the left side cylinders were firing. Needless to say, this bike wouldn't stay running. I shut it down and started it over and over the course of the day several times with no change.. Next day I went to work, thought about this all day as I knew I couldn't ride it on the nice days coming, and as soon as I got home tried it again... To my relief it fired on the first rotation. It has started every time since that day and has seems to start faster and stronger like when it came out of the showroom.. So with all that said, I'm not sure where to go from here. I love the fact that it hasn't occurred again, but at the same time I just started being able to use it again. Now entire time I'm supposed to be enjoying my ride, I'm wondering if i stop if it will fire up or am I going to be stranded on the side of the road... Any ideas ??

Thanks everyone for all the help. I ordered the Avon today and should get it Wednesday of this coming week.

Thanks guys for the continued information about the tires. What kind of mileage are you getting out of the Avon's??

Thanks for the information. I wasn't sure that it was something I was going to do, but thought I would inquire and see what others thought. I had also heard of the concerns with the M880 and have been told by Metzler they have made changes to the tires compound to prevent this. I hope they were honest. I currently have a E3 on the bike and love the way it has lasted and the way it handles on DRY pavement. However on my first trip last year with the E3 I hydroplaned all over the place.. Over the last 10,000 miles I have run into the same continuous issue during wet weather riding... It isn't even an issue with speed, but the bike would slide in turns, and even as of yesterday, taking a turn onto 87south in Lake George, the back of the bike slid out.. It is and was the first time I ever thought I was actually going down.... My buddy behind me pulled up next to me and said "I can't believe you didn't go".. The front of the bike held true, and seems to handle the water just fine. Since that is a M880 I thought I would try the rear..

It is time to replace my rear tire. AS I have been looking around and planning to purchase a Metzler, I noticed there is a "stage 1" upgrade for RSV that changes the size of the tire to a Metzler 180/70hr-15. It states this goes on the same rim..... Is this true? Has anyone actually done this?? If you have done this does it make any difference good or bad? Any input would be greatly appreciated here as the tire needs to be replaced very soon. Thanks JM