Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    You should have absolutely no problem finding that bolt size at Ace; it is quite common. I'd suggest you stick with the Allen head bolts, as you will find that getting a socket or even flat a flat wrench up in there isn't particularly easy either! As long as you have the ball-end wrenches, the Allen head bolts are fine. And replacement bolt heads will problably use 6mm wrench, so they have less chance of stripping. As for spacers - I just silicone 5 flat washers together and buy slightly longer than stock bolts. This moves the lights out about 1/2", just far enough from the fairing to allow adjustment and keep them from rubbing, but does not spoil the looks by sticking them out in front of the headlight. Silicone, hot glue, contact cement, or just about anything else will work fine for the washers - it does not have to be pretty - just hold them together in a stack until you can get the bolt in. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    You really did not tell us much. How long has the bike been sitting? Did you use the choke when starting? How did it act with choke on vs choke off? The few symptoms you gave us are classic plugged pilot jets. Start it up and spray a little starter fluid or carb cleaner (just a quick spritz) in the vacuum ports for the front cylinders - if the engine briefly picks up, you know the problem is with the carbs. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Yes, you do need to drop the light bar unless your bike has one of those ugly aluminum brackets that move the lights way down and forward (well, the bracket is not ugly, but the position of the lights sure is). The stock mounting has the passing lights right up to the fairing. You remove the mounting bolts with a ball-end allen wrench - that is the only way to get on them. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    You should not have to touch those plugs again. The problem is that the pins get a surface corrosion that affects good contact. Just unplugging/plugging them several times cleans the pin connections and fixes the problem, but it can come back. That is why you used the dielectric grease - it should prevent moist air and other contaminants from ever reaching those pins again. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    No, that is not normal - should be 1/2" or more between the edge of the floorboard and the tab on the side stand. Sounds like somebody butchered yours. I'd suggest you get together with another owner and compare your bikes - best way to see what it should really be. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I commuted on my bike every day of the year, in any weather - about a 30 mile ride each way. And as an executive, I typically wore a suit every day. I didn't do much special for riding gear - I'm ATGATT, no matter what. Well, almost - I never ride without boots EXCEPT when I wore a suit - just wasn't worth the effort to me to change my shoes, so I considered leather dress shoes acceptable (where tennis shoes would not be for me). The heel/toe shifter prevented any problems with scuffing the top of my shoes. I wore my chaps over my suit pants, and my leather or mesh riding jacket over my shirt and tie. I simply took my suit jacket and gently folded it in half to lay on top of my briefcase in the trunk. When the weather got wet, I just took the FroggToggs out of my saddlebag and put them on over whatever else I was wearing. Goose
  7. V7Goose

    vibration

    V7Goose replied to yamatime's topic in Watering Hole

    Maybe some of it is just a difference in the words we use, but these bikes just do not have any significant "vibration" at any RPM. Improper carb sync or something wrong with the power produced by one or more cylinders does cause vibration, but you cannot blame that on the bike or say it is a characteristic of the engine - it is simply something wrong that needs to be fixed. LUGGING the engine is something very different. Lugging is defined as asking the engine to produce too much power too low in the torque curve. This is not running the engine too slow, since the engine is designed to run fine all the way down to idle. It is when you ask the engine to work harder than the available torque at any RPM, and under those conditions, lots of bad things happen, including heavy vibration. This situation is especially bad on an engine with timing that is controlled by a throttle position sensor (like ours). Again, this cannot be blamed on the engine - it is nothing more than improper operation by the human jerking on the throttle. "Over-square" engines with fairly short strokes in general produce most of their power at higher RPM, so you simply need to avoid asking for all the expected power unless you have the RPMs up in the power curve. On our bikes, that power curve is typically 3,000-6,000 RPM. In typical city traffic you can ride this bike all day long without even hitting 3,000 RPM and never lug it. But if you want to accelerate fast in any gear over 2nd, you better down-shift! As for the temperature of the pipes, there should be no significant temperature difference on any cylinder at any time - they all heat up quickly and evenly. If you are feeling the bottom of the header pipe right next to where it connects to the cylinder head (the inside pipe, not the chrome shield), it WILL burn your finger within 30 seconds of cold start if all is working fine. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    You can download the owner's manual for free from Yamahaha's web site. But in regards to your poor acceleration issue, be warned that you absolutely CANNOT ride that bike like a big twn, nor can you believe the shift points in the manual. Here is something I posted in a different thread on a similar complaint: You CANNOT hurt this bike by revving it. Period. The stock rev limiter is at 6,000 RPM, and the actual red line for the engine is easily around 8,000. So even if you run it to the rev limiter every time in every gear (neither recommended nor necessary), you have nothing to worry about. But like I said above, you really do need to run it up there a couple of times to understand how different you should be riding this bike. Most of the power in this engine is above 3,000 RPM. Just going from memory, 3,000 RPM is around 70 MPH in 5th (that is why you cannot roll on the throttle hard at 55 in 5th). You CAN ride it all day long in 5th gear anywhere from 40 MPH to 120 MPH, just do not try to accelerate too fast in 5th gear unless you are running over 65. Shifting points - the owner's manual has suggested shifting points in it - but DO NOT EVER try to use them. I have no idea what drugged out fool wrote those down, but this bike CANNOT be ridden in any reasonable fashion with the shift points shown in the owner's manual! For MODERATE acceleration, here are some good shift points to shift INTO the next gear: 40 MPH => 3rd gear 50 MPH => 4th gear 60 MPH => 5th gear Of course, it is fine to upshift sooner if you are done accelerating (or are simply going to keep pace with the usual city traffic). And if you are accelerating hard, you should run it much higher in each gear than those points I gave you above. Remember, 3rd gear will take you all the way to 96 MPH before you hit the rev limiter at 6,000 RPM, so there is no reason to shift into 4th at 50 MPH if you are trying to move out quickly! Goose __________________
  9. V7Goose
    Here's the short vrsion - adjust the cables at the carb for no slack at all - just make sure they allow free return of the throttle when the bars are all the way to the right as described by gibvel above. Be aware that if you have risers and stock cables, you probably will not be able to avoid binding at full right lock - even on new bikes with stock handlebars this is not uncommon. The cruise cable is also adjusted for no slack. The only slack or free-play is adjusted in the cable from the thumb wheel at the throttle. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Sounds like tire imbalance to me - and VERY significant imbalance. I can detect a slight imbalance, usually a speeds above 70, but the way you describe it, I'd think you are several ounces off on one wheel. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I used to recommend Loctite for the shift bolt, but I think I have a better idea now. The problem is that the shift lever pivot (where this bolt is located) needs regular lubrication or it will wear a big egg-shaped hole and wobble like crazy. Loctite only works on dry threads, so this becomes a problem. I now just take the bolt to my vice and give the side of it a quick smack with a hammer, slightly flattening several threads on the end. This creates a self-locking bolt without damaging the female threads. It does not need a lot of deformation - if you can feel any drag at all when you put the bolt back in, it will be enough. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Normal coolant temp while moving is about 210F. Fan comes on somewhere around 240. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Like I said, this is very common on new bikes. When you put the screw back, a dab of Loctite will ensure it never comes out again. But I have also found that just properly tightening the screws will last for 100,000 miles. That screw is one of about six or ten you are guaranteed to have come loose unless you get to them first on a new RSV! Well, that particular one only affects about 25% of the bikes, but there are others that will get 80% or more. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Well, the good news is that you dealer has to fix it for you if you cannot. The problem is a common one - one of the little flat head screws on the arm catch mechanism has come loose and is jamming up the works. Probably all you need to do is jiggle it up and down a bit until the screw moves enough to allow the trunk to open. Maybe if you just take a long ride the road bouncing and vibration will do that fore you. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    The word picture is still puzzling - if it was just laying on the rotor, then it could not have been in that place while it was on the bike, as it would have just fallen off when the wheel was vertical, or the brakes would have pushed it off when the wheel turned. So that means it had to fall off of something when you laid the wheel down. At just over 1" in diameter, it sounds about like the size of a typical neoprene oil seal - all of them have a spring like that inside the lip of the seal to maintain good contact with the shaft they are sealing. Could be from one of the wheel bearing seals that got ripped out by sloppy mechanical work, then was lodged inside the left side of the wheel next to the final drive. When you pulled the wheel, it fell on the rim, then when you laid it down, it fell off the rim onto the rotor? Goose Another possibility - there is also a large thick rubber seal on the wheel near the drive splines. I seem to recal that it is a lot bigger than 1.25", and I have no idea if it has a spring inside of it, but I'd also check there.
  16. V7Goose
    How big is it? This size of a golf ball? Tennis ball? You said it was behind the rotor - does this mean it was like a rubberband that smeone stretched over the rotor so it was between the rotor and the wheel, or was it on the other side of the wheel, where the drive splines mate with the rear drive unit? Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I do not suspect the fuel pump at all, but since they had everything torn apart and seem a bit questionable in their competency, I suspect they have put something together wrong or damaged something. It would have been quite easy for them to kink the fuel hose, or maybe they just forgot to connect the TPS plug. The main reason I stressed hearing the fuel pump click when you turn the key on is to KNOW the carb bowls are full before you start the test. Your bike has four coils. There is no way I know of that it could be fooling itself into thinking it was running faster that reality. Not to say that there couldn't be a problem with the ignition module or coils, just that it is not likely under these circumstances. As I said in my first post, nothing about the primary circuit could cause your symptoms. I understand where you are coming from, and there is a certain (faulty) logic to your thoughts, but it just ain't so. I have worked on several bikes where the primary jets were 100% clogged, and the owners could only get them patrially running by keeping the choke on and the idle screw turned way up, but they ran pretty darned good when they got out on the road and had the throttle way open. If you are worried about the mixture screws being messed up, just set them all at 4 turns out and forget about it until you get the rest sorted out. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Not the pilot jets or screws - if that is all that was going on, the engine would run better and stronger the more you opened the throttle. Fairly easy to check the overall fuel supply to the carbs (tank screen, filter,pump). All you need to do is take the bike out where you can quickly get it up through the gears, then pull over and shut it off. Now turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to stop clicking, indicating the carbs are full. In actuality, the carbs should already be full and you should not hear any click at all, so you may want to shut off the fuel supply about 1/2 a mile or so before you pull over, that way you will be able to verify that the fuel pump is actually working when you turn the key on for this test. OK, back to the test. Pull the bike over and shut it off with the key. Now turn the fuel back on, then turn the key on and wait for the clicking to stop. Cycle the key off and on again to make sure the clicking is all done and the carb bowls are full. The bike will go several miles on just the gas in the carbs, so if the problem is with the fuel supply instead of the carbs themselves, you should be able to start the bike and quickly run up through the gears without any problem at all at first, but two miles or so down the road when the carbs begin to dry up the faltering should start again. But if this test shows the faltering starts immediately, then the problem is inside the carbs. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    This is a very interesting suggestion - to be honest, it initially sounded pretty weak to me; in a response to a PM from BigBear I had already told him I thought it was almost certainly a head gasket. But after seeing this post, I pulled up the oil routing diagrams for this engine, and I now think that a bad head gasket is very unlikely! Unlike a typical car engine, there are no high-pressure oil passages running up through the block-to-head joint where a head gasket can develop a leak into a water passage. Looks like the only high-pressure oil line is an external connection directly to the heads. In contrast, the water pump driven gear and impeller shaft are prominently shown and labeled in several places in the lubrication diagrams, making it clear that they have a direct access to the high-pressure oil galleries. I now think that M61A1MECH's diagnosis is quite likely correct. Good job! But you still need to get that to the dealer ASAP to get it fixed before something else is damaged by the oil and water being where they do not belong. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Yes, the five year unlimited mileage warranty will fix it for him, no cost. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    I personally do not believe the drive shaft needs to be pulled and greased more than once every 100,000 miles, but nevertheless, it is quite easy to do. On the other hand, the drive clutch pins really do need to be lubed with EVERY rear tire change. If we have anyone who plans to change a rear tire on maintenance day, we can demonstrate both of those. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Y're ight, that is certainly a big job. Takes starting pretty early to be sure and wrap it up all in one day. That is a big concern with some folks wanting to arrive on Friday morning to observe. But with you, we have the benefit of not being overly concerned about finishing it on Friday, so we can potentially wait to start until mid day. Let's see what other suggestions we get, but his is a good possibility. Quite easy to put in a zerk fitting (but it is not something that I suggest). If you can drill and tap any hole, that is a simple job. While there are techniques to do that without even opening the steering head, I REALLY do NOT NOT NOT suggest that for the average person - just too much risk of contaminating the bearing area with metal particles. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    For the past few years I have conducted a special pre-maintenance day clinic on the Friday before the official Maintenance Day at Don's in Ohio. If I remember correctly, last year we demonstrated how to do a valve adjustment on the 2nd gen, and the year before we did a carb float clinic. So for all those who are considering showing up a day early, I'm taking suggestions on what we should do for the Friday clinic this year. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Planning on making the run up from North Texas - probably a Wednesday and Thursday run up there. If anyone is coming from further south in Texas and wants to join us, you are welcome to spend Tuesday night here. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    In my experience you cannot get reliable readings on the exhaust headers with an IR thermometer. Just moving the aim point by 1/4" can produce wild changes in indicated temps, and you have already identified how difficult it is to even access the front headers. Goose
×
×
  • Create New...