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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    I would not go back to that dealer; he is an absolute liar and thief. All of those issues are regularly covered under warranty by any honest dealer. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    The manual is available for free download on Yamaha web site. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    This is a very old thread, and IMHO it is very wrong. The stock fuel filter on a 2nd gen is extremely easy to change without removing anything at all except the seat and battery covers. The idea that this is a hard job is a very old rumor that really needs to be out to rest! Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I do not have any strong recollections about the spring. I have had these apart four or five times and never had an issue putting the spring back in. I do not think it needs any extra pre-tensioning beyond just what it takes to hold everything in place. I think the spring's only purpose is to keep slack out of the cables when the throttle and cruise mechanisms are not pulling against each other. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    This is a little hard to explain in words, but the fix is quite simple. The bottom wheel has a couple of tabs in it, and the top wheel has a bar that contacts those tabs, so if the top wheel is turned it will then turn the bottom wheel. If you put the top wheel in with the bar on the wrong side of the tabs, it has no way to turn the bottom wheel. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I have no idea what you were trying to show us in the videos. Your fuel pump was working, but it did not build up pressure from filling the carbs. If your pump is actually bad and not working sometimes, them maybe you just did not give it a chance to fill the carbs (there is an automatic timeout when the engine is not running, and it usually takes several cycles of the key to fully fill empty carbs). Otherwise, the most likely problem is clogged fuel filter. Other possible causes are open float valve, gas turned off, or dirty screens in the tank. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    I have never opened the carbs on the '90s Royal Stars, so I do not know if they are like the 1st gens, 2nd gens, or some completely different animal. Because of that, I cannot advise you on specific locations of various parts. And I understand that many things could have been changed or messed up by prior owners on a 15 year old bike. But the symptoms you described fit absolutely perfectly with plugged pilot jets (or any other problem that restricts fuel through the pilot circuits in a CV carb). The jets may have been cleaned by somebody in an attempt to fix the problem, but maybe the carb passages are fouled? Did you try to spray carb cleaner through the pilot jet passage and get a strong stream out into the carb throat below the butterfly? I doubt that float levels could cause the symptoms you describe. Generally a carb will run pretty well on a wide range of float settings. If they are WAY too low, the engine would still run very good until it starved for fuel under hard acceleration. If they are way too high, you would be running rich - very different than your symptoms. The most simple test of pilot circuits is to just turn the mixture screws in to hear the idle speed drop. If it does not drop from any carb before the screw seats, then that carb is not providing any fuel from the pilot circuit. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    You probably do not need to do anything more than simply clean the pilot jets. Most of yours are probably totally clogged. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    FYI - your bike has a Barons lowering kit on it instead of the stock brake caliper bracket. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Yes, absolutely stay with the lower pressure pump. Too much pressure can cause higher fuel levels in the float bowls and damage to the float needle tip. Thanx for pointing out I had the part number wrong in the tech library - I have updated it. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Yes, it absolutely should be there. If it is not, make a big deal out of it for price negotiations - no way to use the intercom or CB without it. (After you buy the bike, you will probably find it coiled up under the plastic cover around the key ring or under the tank.) Goose
  12. V7Goose
    There is a ton of information on your concerns on this site. Here are some high points - All 1999-2011 Ventures are virtually identical. Only two major things for you to watch out for: Make certain the bottom of the rear shock is bone dry. Any oil or oily dirt on the bottom shock mount says the shock is bad - $600+ part and a known weak point. Do a good test ride and listen for engine whine. These 4 cylinder engines tend to make a bit of whine or chirp at certain RPM bands. Not all of them whine, and the vast majority are fairly quiet and totally acceptable. BUT, a few of them virtually scream, and the surprised buyers hate the bike for it. Just be sure to do a good test ride so you can see if there is any sound that you do not like. You should be happy these bikes are carbureted instead of EFI. Carbs were perfected many many years ago, are easy to tune and relatively cheap to maintain. None of that is true about EFI. This bike has been made unchanged for 12 years - an absolute guarantee that all parts will remain available for at least another 10 years (by law in the USA). You will absolutely enjoy this bike. Welcome to the site! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Technically, Yes, you SHOULD turn off the fuel at every stop. A leaking float valve can lead to diluted engine oil or hydrolock. In reality, however, most of us never do it. Yes, you can change the fuel petcock on the fly with no problem. Never EVER shift at the speeds shown in the owner's manual - written by some stupid drunk fool. I am generally a big proponent of RTFM - you learn a lot. But unfortunately, whoever wrote that part of the manual was one of the most stupid people on earth. See my comments here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61360&highlight=shift Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Wally, I don't know why I missed your original post, and I am very sorry you had to go to the trouble and expense of trailering your bike. But like Don said, this is very old information that is often discussed here, and the tech bulletin is available in the tech library. As you have seen, there are two different subjects discussed in that bulletin, the alignment and greasing/seating the clutch drive pins. Lack of regular grease on the drive pins is the cause of this noise virtually 100% of the time. Alignment of the final drive is generally only needed one time, and then only iff the axle does not slide in without friction. For anyone else that runs into this problem - there is no known risk of riding your bike with the clicking noise until you can get it looked at. Usually the problem is not bad enough to hear when the bike is running - most of us first find it when pushing the bike backwards in the driveway. Bottom line for all 2nd gen owners is that they REALLY need to make sure those drive pins are properly greased with EVERY rear tire change. Seems like very few Yamahaha dealers ever do this, and virtually no independent shop or dealer for a different brand would even know about it unless someone specifically educated them. Thanx for bringing this back to our attention! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    It sounds like you have already done all the normal and appropriate things to try to resolve this problem. I do not have any new ideas on what is causing it at this time, but if it happens again, there are only two very simple tests for you to do on the side of the road to isolate the bike system that is causing you grief. Once you know which system it is, we can zero in faster. Combustion needs just three things - fuel, air, spark. From your description, it seems almost impossible for this to be an air problem, so that just leaves fuel and spark. When it dies, open one of the carb drains - if you get a normal amount of fuel (it will drain for 10 seconds or so), you can quit looking at the fuel system. As a secondary test for fuel, if the pump is still hooked up, turn the key on after the carb has quit draining, but with the drain still open. You should both hear clicking AND get gas running out of the drain. For this test, you only need to make sure you have a long allen wrench with you to make drain access easy. Spark is even easier to test if you are willing to take a little pain for the cause. Have an old plug in your pocket, pull off one of the back plug wires, stick in the old plug and hold it against the engine. Hit the starter and watch for spark. There is a good chance you will feel the spark as well as see it (if it is there), but that won't hurt you none (not real damage, anyway), and you will know for sure if you have spark! If you don't see the spark (or get bit), then try it again while actually holding the metal base of the plug - yes, this virtually guarantees that you will get bit if the spark is there, but if you already think the spark is missing, isn't it worth the risk? Just make sure you are holding it in such a way that when you jerk your hand away, it isn't gonna smash against something hard! BTW - if you haven't actually remove the plug caps and checked them for If I can come up with any new solid ideas that you haven't already tried, I'll give you a call. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    The best way to test the speakers is to use a headset - if the headset works, then the problem is in the speakers, not the radio/amp. If you don't have one, find someone with a wing (same basic cord) or an RSV and ask them to plug it in long enough to see if there is sound (but do not forget to switch the system from SP to HS!). Goose
  17. V7Goose
    The stock fuel filter is extremely easy to change without remove ANYTHING except the seat and battery covers. Only four simple steps to take it out: Remove the seat. Remove the battery covers (both sides and the front, but I'm still only gonna count this as ONE step!). Take the fuel line off the top of the filter. Use your finger to simply push the filter out the bottom. If you want a little more room to take the fuel filter off the bottom fuel hose, just slip that hose off the fuel pump. That would make it five steps, but technically, that last one is not necessary. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Actually, putting multiple words inside double quotes DOES absolutely work exactly like what was requested. The search engine will still highlight each individual occurrence of an single word anywhere in the threads that it returns, but it will ONLY return threads that have the full string somewhere. Test it with "again redrider" and then the same two words without the quotes. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    That is an excellent suggestion, but I wouldn't bother just bleeding it - that bike is at least six years old, and the fluid should be changed every couple of years. If yours has old fluid in there with lots of moisture in it, then you could easily be loosing some clutch action when it is hot. Change that fluid. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    This is not a particularly common complaint on these bikes. First step would be to lube all the joints/pivot points in the shift linkage. You might start with WD-40, just to clean out the joints, but that is not really a lube, so after you blast them good with WD-40, use something like a spray-on grease or chain lube. And do not ignore the shift arm - pull it off the pivot arm above the floorboard and grease it (that is what that groove in there is for). Next, I'd change the oil - sticking clutch plates often cause such a problem in motorcycles. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Make sure the CB is off. Make sure the volume is up. Try a headset to see if the problem is the speakers or speaker wires. Try different bands on the radio to see if it is radio related. Try the Aux input with an mp3 player. Try a cassette. Goose
  22. V7Goose

    Air flow

    V7Goose replied to Whistler's topic in Watering Hole

    You can remove both the deflectors mounted under the turn signals as well as the deflectors mounted to the fairing edge. Those on the forks (turn signals) absolutely do block a lot of air - without them you will get a large flow of air up and over the front of the tank and into your mid section. Just be aware that if you ever ride in the wet, even just road spray after the rain has stopped, you will get an equal amount of water blown right up to the same place! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    You need to read the instructions with your switch, SOME switches with three connectors have lights in them, and then the third connector is for ground to the light. But other switches with three connectors are simply single pole, double throw switches which are essentially two switches in one, meaning if you throw the switch one way you can turn on device A, and when you throw it the other way you get device B. You can use that kind of switch and just use two connectors and it works exactly like a simple on/off switch. The point is that you need to read the instructions on the package or look for a diagram on the switch itself, not just blindly assume that all three connector switches are the same. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    FYI - this thread is a year old; not much point in replying to it.
  25. V7Goose
    Just an FYI for you - the tank is VERY easy to take off, either full or empty. Just three bolts and it picks right up. Goose Oops, forgot to mention that you do need to remove the plastic key cover and disconnect the fuel gauge plug and tank vent hose. Figured you were smart enough to know you had to disconnect the fuel line! The main point of my post was to stress that I doubt you would find a full tank any problem to remove.
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