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RossKean

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Everything posted by RossKean

  1. I have had the "fast flash" before and in my case, it turned out to be due to corrosion in the front signal socket. With the lenses off, I discovered that the wrong filament was flashing, despite the fact that the bulb was good. It was OK after I spent 20 minutes cleaning up the socket and contacts. Used dielectric grease to hopefully prevent further problems.
  2. All batteries are not created equally. Having said that, there are four major things that have a large effect on battery life 1) Vibration - unfortunately nothing can be done about that other than making sure the battery is mounted properly (and don't ride a Harley). 2) Deep discharge - batteries "hate" it and just a few deep cycles can kill a battery. Similarly, batteries like to be kept near fully charged to prevent sulfation. Leaving a battery at half charge (or less) will dramatically shorten its life. The use of a battery tender can help - just make sure it isn't over-charging the battery (that's really bad too). 3) Maintenance - If you have a non-maintenance-free battery, make sure that the fluid level is kept up using DISTILLED WATER ONLY. Also, in the maintenance category; never charge the battery at a high rate. C/10 is the term used for friendly charging - this is a rate that is one tenth of the battery capacity. So, if the battery is rated for 18 ampere-hours (typical MC batt), an appropriate optimum charge rate is 1.8 amps (constant current charge). Should taper to a lower rate as charge is completed. 4) Climate - This is one area where Northerners have an advantage. Batteries simply last longer in cooler climates. I typically get 5 years out of a battery in car or scoot.
  3. Not normal... Check assembly order; especially the washer. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515]Rear Wheel Removal - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Ross
  4. I don't have a problem with a good patch/plug repair on the tire tread but a 3/16" deep gash in a sidewall isn't something that I would even consider riding with. Just my opinion, but I would replace it before I rode anywhere. Ross
  5. If you charge it at a ten amp rate, you will cook it; or at the very least you will shorten its life. Lead-acid batteries do not like to be charged at a high rate. They also "hate" deep discharges. I should note that a 10 amp charger may be able to charge at a slower rate, depending upon the unit. As a rule of thumb, I try to keep the charge rate for a lead-acid battery at no more than "C/10". One tenth of the full battery capacity (rated in ampere-hours) per hour so a full charge from flat would require 10-12 hours. Obviously less time for a partially charged battery. This link will probably provide far more information than you will ever need (or want) for batteries. Oriented to car batteries but the same principles apply. http://www.batteryfaq.org/ Ross
  6. Might help to bring it back to life a bit for a short time but nothing is going to fix a bad battery! Actually, I have never heard of using Javex but aspirin is a favorite folk remedy to "fix" bad lead-acid batteries. I assume that this is a liquid electrolyte rather than an AGM battery? Do youself a favor and replace it before it lets you down at an inopportune moment! Ross
  7. See the following article (Marshall mod)... http://bludolphintravel.com/gmg/marshallmod.htm These are not the very short antennas but at 3', its better than the stock ones. I have not done this but the setup is reported to work very well. There is an article in our tech section for conversion to a single antenna as well. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11486]Conversion to Single Antenna - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Ross
  8. 27 °F is just -3 °C - still OK for a ride!! Just about freezing here today so I might get out for an hour or so... Ross
  9. I got out on Sunday for 160 km (100 mi) in Fredericton New Brunswick. Temperature didn't go above 3 °C (37 °F) but it was sunny. Cold night last night and they salted the roads so I won't take it out again until we get some rain to wash it away (if we get rain again). Hope for at least one more day sometime in the next week or so. Very unlikely to get another chance until mid-March (at the earliest) around here. The salt they use on the roads keeps me off the scoot until spring, even if we get an unseasonably warm day. Ross
  10. I'd like to see them replicate the gear whine!
  11. I changed my pipes because they were too loud for long trips! (I bought the bike used with aftermarket pipes on it.) Don't know what they were but they looked great with a downturn at the ends and idling or around town, they had a nice throaty V-8 sort of sound. The noise, however, really got to me on the highway after a couple of hours. Changed them for some used stock pipes - did not notice any power difference but the "whine" is a little more evident! Ross
  12. Been there and done that... This is one of a series of nasty trojans that hijacks the computer. I had a variant that blocked many useful websites; especially those that would enable a fix. It locked the desktop so you couldn't remove the desktop screen it installed, disabled restore points and kept telling you to buy their "fix" to get rid of it as it continually did fake scans that informed me how badly infected my computer was. Picked it up while innocently "surfing" - no downloads and nothing opened from an email. I believe that it even blocked safe mode, but I can't remember for sure. In any case, it could not be removed by any software on the computer and essentially rendered the computer useless. I was just about to reformat the hard drive and start over but decided to try one more thing... I removed the drive from the computer and installed it as a slave in another machine with the latest fix programs installed and updated on the primary drive. I used Malwarebytes to scan the afflicted drive - also ran Spybot for good measure as well as the Microsoft Security Essentials - new free software from Microsoft. Once reinstalled on the original computer, it ran OK and the trojan did not reinstall itself. Had to do a direct registry edit to restore the ability to change the desktop wallpaper (instructions available if you do a search). Individuals who create such trash should be strung up!! I wasted about four hours but managed to get the system back without losing anything. Easier than a new install of the OS and all programs - not to mention what would be lost in terms of email, photos and MP3 files. Note: if you do have to reformat, you can at least install the drive as a slave in another computer and retrieve any files that have not already been backed up. As long as you are not running anything from the infected disk, it is unlikely to infect the other computer. If you are anything like me, good intentions for regular backups are often put off until too late. Good luck Ross
  13. I had exactly the same problem with a gas weedeater. The fuel lines essentially crumbled to the point where I couldn't tell what line went where. Couldn't find a manual so I went to a hardware store and looked at a similar model on the shelf to see how it was supposed to work. I managed to buy new fuel lines (2 different sizes) from a local small engine repair shop. Fixed up the lines, primed it well and it started on first pull - first time it had run properly in two years. Almost threw it out because it had been very unreliable for awhile - must have been sucking air in the months before the lines disintegrated completely. Ross
  14. Just over 20,000 miles this year. Not too bad for someone who isn't retired and living in the cooler climate of Eastern Canada. I ride from early April until the snow and salt are on the roads in the fall - mid to late November. This time of year, rides are shorter but I hope to manage another 1000 miles or so before I put it to bed for the winter. Tomorrow is looking pretty good. I managed a trip down to New Hampshire last weekend - fantastic late season riding. Ross
  15. I hate to suggest the obvious but... Is there any chance you simply "toggled" the screen off? Most laptops can have the screen on or off with a Function + other key to turn the screen on and off.
  16. This is the article that started it: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=492]Raising the Rear of the RSV - VentureRider.Org[/ame] I believe that mild steel was used but my preference would be to use stainless - for corrosion resistance rather than strength. Mine are stainless and were fabricated and given to me by a generous fellow Venture Rider. Ross
  17. Park beside a Harley. No accounting for the taste of the criminal element but I suspect a well-farkled Harley is more attractive to the average thief! I wonder how the theft statistics compare?
  18. A motorcycle battery should never be charged at a fast rate. I think the best bet (as stated above) would be to put it on a constant voltage charger and charge it at a rate that DOES NOT EXCEED 2 amps - this will taper to a few milliamps as the charge approaches completion. Maybe 10 hours; depending on initial charge state. I ususally use a one ampere charger to top off batteries and they seem to last me a very long time. Fast charging (i.e 5 amp rate) and complete discharging are the kiss of death for any type of lead-acid battery. A few complete discharges (i.e. leaving the ignition on overnight or over-winter storage without occasional top-up) can kill a battery completely after just a few cycles. I never use a battery tender but make sure that the battery is disconnected if I'm not riding regularly. I will do a top-up charge about once per month during the winter. Ross
  19. Thanks I'll give them a call later in the week. Ross
  20. What is included in the "kit" from PCW? Do I have to get the gasket from the local Yamaha shop or is it included? Other than a torque wrench, appropriate allen keys and something to scrape off the old gasket, is there anything else I need? I don't think I am going to replace all of the friction plates but my 2002 RSMV just started slipping a wee bit a couple of days ago. What is the cost? - kit is not on their website and I thought I would get the "scoop" from here before i called them. Ross
  21. If a Yamaha Vista is anything like Windows Vista then it would only run very slowly and a backrest (or any other accessory) for this bike wouldn't fit anything else. Might find it prone to crashing as well.
  22. According to the MSDS sheet, in addition to the naptha, Seafoam contains "pale oil" (a heavier hydrocarbon distillate) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). The alcohol will help dissolve "polar" constituents and help get rid of water. The heavier hydrocarbon would likely behave as a lubricant. In essence, Seafoam's "active ingredient" is not simply naptha but the camp fuel would work well IF what you want to dissolve is soluble in a moderately agressive organic solvent. i.e. probably good for varnish but less useful for salt/water etc.
  23. RossKean

    winter

    This is one of the most thorough write-ups I have seen on the subject. Overkill in many respects but it should give you some ideas. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html
  24. Thanks to Goose, we now know when the heaters are on and when they're not. I would be interested to know if anyone has ever had a problem with carbs icing. I assume this would be a problem only when temperatures are low enough and the relative humidity is high. Ross
  25. Be prepared to check (and possibly replace) rear brake pads. Take them out and have a good look; the inner will be worn more. If both still have some life in them, swap inner to outer. You can't go by the appearance of the outer pad - it might be OK while the inner is grinding away the rotor. Bleed rear brake while you are there if it hasn't been done in awhile.
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