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RossKean

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Everything posted by RossKean

  1. RossKean
    40 or 50 wt Amsoil? Would be worse with the heavier oil but I don't find the behavior unusual; especially when the exterior temperature drops or if the bike has been sitting a few days. I would suggest its not a problem as long as it doesn't happen with the bike warmed up. A clutch bleed wouldn't be a bad idea. I have had the SS lines for over a month and haven't gotten around to getting them installed. Ross
  2. RossKean
    There were also a few fine cracks spreading from the upper attachment point. The mounting point was broken when I bought the bike a year ago and at the time, I used some JB Weld. It broke again and the cracks developed - think I hit a bird or small critter of some sort. I have tried cyanoacrylate adhesive (Krazy glue) in the cracks and reset the mounting point with JB Weld. We'll see if it holds up. If not, I'll have to clean out the JB Weld and try some sort of ABS patch. $200+ for the part plus paint. Ross
  3. RossKean
    "You could fix it or you can go back to the dealer and tell them you want it replaced on warrenty.." Bike is a 2002 - don't think the warranty would cover it!
  4. RossKean
    I have a crack in the lower fairing; radiating out from the main (upper) bolt that secures it. Is the best repair something like JB Weld or some sort of ABS welder product - possibly with an ABS patch to prevent it from propagating? If anyone has something that has worked for them, I would appreciate the information. Thanks Ross
  5. RossKean
    Under the conditions I am riding (i.e. not particularly dusty), once per year should be OK. When I did them last time, they weren't bad after 30,000+ km (20,000 mi). Good spring (or fall) maintenance item. Just make sure that you don't over-oil the filters. A fairly light spray applied to the COMPLETELY dry filter medium is enough. (I usually use a hair drier to make sure the filters are fully dry before oiling.) Ross
  6. RossKean
    Advice taken! I guess there is a little more incentive to remove a possible point of failure for a two cylinder Roadstar than the four cylinder Venture - The Roadie doesn't run on one cylinder but the Venture will do OK on three. As you mentioned, it seems like a good idea to thoroughly check out the caps (and the resistor) before deciding that a coil is in need of replacement! Ross
  7. RossKean
    Goose Did you test any of the resistors from "failed" coils? For the Roadstar, it is a fairly common practice to remove the resistors and replace them with a slug of copper wire of the appropriate diameter. Since the plugs we use are resistor type plugs, it didn't mess up any of the electronics on the R* (not much on the R* other than the ignition). However, the Venture has a lot more in the way of electronics (radio, CB, cruise etc.), I'm wondering if there would be any problem in doing away with the resistors. People were replacing the resistors as preventative maintenance because there had been reports of failures of the resistors. I assume that the resistor in the Venture is similar and "might" be a possible point of failure. Ross
  8. RossKean
    The 5W40 Rotella Synthetic seems to work well for me and even at the $30 regular price, it is still less than half the cost of the Mobil1 or the Amsoil MC oils. Although not up to your level of riding, I am close to 20,000 miles (over 30,000 km) this year. Pretty good since I work fulltime and the season is painfully short. I don't think Yamaha recommends a 50 wt oil for the V-4. 5W40 or 10W40 should be good. The synthetics seem to have a longer range of viscosity and they will go longer before oxidation and viscosity breakdown (but you still have to consider contamination and depletion of additives). The Rotella is a diesel oil and is supposed to be pretty good in severe service (i.e. motorcycle) applications. Does not contain "Energy Conserving" additives which can spell trouble for the wet clutch. Ross
  9. RossKean
    Seaking Probably more than you ever wanted to know about oil!! http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G-2156.pdf Keep in mind, this was published (and paid for) by Amsoil. They don't like the Royal Purple too much. I found the RP in Fredericton, but the place wanted a lot of money for it. Also this http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html Lots of other great MC information on this site as well including this oil summary http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html Home page is http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/index.html I have been using Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 (blue jug) in my MRSV for over a year without problems. Although they don't always carry it, I found some at Canadian Tire a few weeks ago for $22.00 for 4 litres. In the past, I have ordered it by the case from a truck supply place; again, way cheaper than the MC specific Amsoil or Mobil 1. (Note: There is a Rotella 0W40 in a black jug that I would not use) Depending on what kind of riding I am doing, I usually change it between 6000 and 8000 km, but don't worry about it if I go over. (4-5 oil changes per year) Riding a lot of kilometers in a relatively short time in a moderate (cool) climate is a LOT less hard on oil than short riding intervals, few km and hot ambient temperatures. Ross
  10. RossKean
    If you get a chance, do an actual comparison with another Venture. If it is much hotter, you likely have a major problem with the cooling system. Either a thermostat that doesn't open or a water pump that doesn't pump (or a lack of coolant). Any of these things could spell disaster for your engine. Get it checked out ASAP and don't ride any distance until you know its right! Ventures are NOT known for excessive engine heat making it to the tank or rider. My legs get a little warm stopped at a light on a hot day but thats about the extent of it.
  11. RossKean

    Insurance

    RossKean replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole

    Because of insurance rates, I elected to keep a good level of liability insurance and comprehensive/fire/theft (with a fairly high deductable) on the bike. I dropped collision because of the cost and on the theory that if I had an accident bad enough to require a claim beyond the (high) deductable, I would probably be too messed up to ride anyway. Also, the bike is paid for and as a 2002 does not have a very large "value". If totaled in a collision, my future insurance rates would likely increase by more than the payment (accumulated rate increase after a few years). Ross
  12. RossKean
    First start of the day (temperature below 75 F or so)... Choke out, start, drive off, close choke within 30 seconds. On a warm day, I rarely have to choke on subsequent restarts unless the bike has been parked for 5-6 hours. Choking is usually necessary below 60 F if the bike has been parked more than 2-3 hours.
  13. RossKean
    The fan does not come on very often. At idle, you will definitely notice it and (as far as I know) my fan has never come on while riding anything above an in-city crawl. If there is a problem, I think it is far more likely the thermostat than the fan. I assume that there is actually the correct amount of coolant in the bike and that the water pump works as it should - I would like to think that your dealer actually checked this stuff. (Probably should not assume anything) I could shoot some temperatures of the tank on my 2002 Midnight but my case may not be a very good comparison for you. At this time of year, we are getting daytime high temperatures only in the mid 60's. In any case, the tank should NOT get too hot to touch comfortably; unless you have a dark bike, nearly empty tank, parked in direct sunlight on a hot day. At those temperatures (> 120 F) gasoline will actually start to BOIL, or at least simmer a bit - absolutely not a good thing. Note: If you are using an infrared optical thermometer, shoot it at a non-reflective surface. You won't get an accurate reading on a chrome gas cap - put a piece of black tape on it and shoot at it after it has warmed up to the substrate temperature. How does the temperature compare between a full and a nearly empty tank? Good luck with it. Ross
  14. RossKean
    No doubt about it - your bike is a chick magnet!
  15. RossKean
    Any chance your clutch is slipping under load giving a shuddering vibration and no acceleration? Does the engine speed up without yielding acceleration? Otherwise plug or coil are possibilities. I would say fuel pump but wouldn't expect vibration. Downshifting with heavy loads is probably a good idea. Ross
  16. RossKean
    Let us know if it can be removed. I might get the Scorpion if it can be "debadged".
  17. RossKean
    Less than 1600 miles per year!! Have to watch for cobwebs in the carbs!
  18. RossKean
    I considered one of the Scorpion helmets but hated the look of their stylized "S" logo on the front of all of their helmets. I also liked the hideaway visor on the half-helmet.
  19. RossKean
    They look good to me. Very little erosion and look like the mixture has been pretty good. No need to replace, in my opinion.
  20. RossKean
    I don't know about these ones but at least some Mikuni carbs have an "acceleration duration" setting which sqirts a little fuel when the throttle is cracked. Prevents a momentary lean condition under acceleration. Otherwise, an overall lean condition might be the issue.
  21. RossKean
    Thanks Goose I may try the Pure One filter the next time. Hard to find in this part of Canada but I'll be making a run across the border sometime in the next week or two. Ross
  22. RossKean
    Goose From this information, it would seem that the ML filter bypass opens at too low a pressure (might not be good, could be by-passing too much) and the PL is slightly too high (possible overpressure?). What filter do you use?? (I have been using a Wix filter so far without any problems but was thinking about trying the PL14610). Ross
  23. RossKean
    Just bumping your message - I would also be interested in borrowing a Canadian shim kit and tool if one is available. I have a 2002 RSMV with 70,000 km that has (as far as I know) never been checked. I bought the bike last year (August) and half that mileage has been put on since then. I am slightly concerned because I am noticing some top-end noises at idle and would like to get it checked out before any damage is done. I'm not in a panic but it would likely become a winter project. Does anyone know what a dealer would charge to do this and I have to wonder about the liklihood of it being done right? Ross
  24. RossKean
    Sombody might as well give you a serious answer! For what its worth, I stay with the Rotella Synthetic 5W40 all the time. (I just bought some at Canadian Tire for $22/jug; much less than half the price of the motorcycle-specific synthetics) Good protection at higher temperatures but doesn't turn into goo when the temperature drops a bit. I usually ride until they start salting the roads (early December) and I'm back on the road after the first good rain in the spring (aluminum bike parts hate salt). Usually good to go any day the temperature is a couple of degrees on the plus side of freezing and haven't had any issues so far. Sorry, I have no abuse to pile onto what you have already received - they took all the good lines!
  25. RossKean
    +1 on the leveling links. Raises the back of the bike a little more than an inch but seems to have very little effect on the seat height. Changes the effective rake just enough to make the slow speed handling much better. I just installed them yesterday and tested them on a 200 mile ride today. Really worth it and they are an easy install. I also agree on the tires. I have had Bridgestones (crap) and Metzelers (good but there seem to be some quality issues lately). I am currently running the Dunlop E3 and I really like them. Avons and Michelin Commanders are also supposed to be pretty good on the Venture. All of these will outlast the 404s and from what I have heard, they handle better. One more thing - some people have gone to a skinnier front tire which is supposed to help as well. Ross
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