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RossKean

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  1. RossKean
    Got an hour in on Saturday morning. Rain from hurricane/tropical storm Danny put an end to that! Had a maintenance day - new iridium plugs, rear diff oil, bled rear brake, installed levelling links, cleaned and lubed splines and drive pins... Still gotta find time to install new SS front brake and clutch lines - maybe the next rainy day. Ross
  2. RossKean
    Any idea of the size/spec for the crush washers? As advised, I will see if I can find a pump locally for a reasonable price. Ross
  3. RossKean
    I recently purchased replacement braided SS hydraulic lines (front brake and clutch) and plan to install them as soon as we get some lousy weather - perhaps this weekend. I was having a look at the stock setup and noticed that the rubber lines run inside a soft rubber sheath for part of the run. Is it necessary to keep this sheath to protect the plastic covered SS lines? Any tricks or things to watch for while making the swap. Any issues or major dis-assembly needed to run the lines (I haven't had a really good look yet). I don't have speed bleeders or a vacuum pump so I am hoping I don't run into trouble getting all of the bubbles out! Thanks Ross
  4. RossKean
    I have had a similar problem and I found it is related to the contacts in the socket. If you look at the front signal lights and compare one side to the other, you may find that the filament for the running light stays on while the flasher filament cycles normally on one side. (may have to take the lenses off to see) On the other side (fast flashing side) the filament for the running light is on until you hit the flasher and then it cycles on and off - the flasher filament stays off. I still have the problem from time to time and I suspect there is still corrosion in the socket despite my best efforts to clean it up and liberal doses of dielectric grease. I'll probably have another go at cleaning it up and then replace the socket. When I bought the bike (used), both turn signal sockets were badly corroded and it took considerable effort to remove the bulbs and free up the springs. Of course, it could be any of the other things suggested. If you get what I described, try wiggling the bulb while it is flashing and see if it works normally at any point. Ross
  5. RossKean
    I have never tried the Google search option within the forum. Will do that next time I want to find out anything about oil!! Thanks Ross
  6. RossKean
    Do you keep this stuff in your oil all the time or could you, for example, add it a couple of hundred miles before an oil change and still get some benefit from a "treated" engine? If it works without hurting anything in the clutch, I'm in favor. If it would still be effective after a treatment and then an oil change, that would be my preferred route. When it comes to clutches, I'd rather hedge my bets. Interesting stuff, to say the least. Ross
  7. RossKean
    Why does the search engine refuse to use any search term with fewer than four letters? I can think of lots of searches that might need a three letter key word: Oil Fan LED or LCD Bar Air Gas DOT, SAE, JIS, ISO (and other acronyms) Cap (i.e. gas cap can't be searched) I'm sure I could come up with a bunch more if I tried - I have actually hit several of these on more than one occasion when searching. Is this part of the forum package or is it something that can be changed? Thanks Ross
  8. RossKean
    I just noticed yesterday that the local Canadian Tire is also carrying the synthetic Rotella (5W-40) in the blue jug. (They used to just carry the dino oil in the white jug) They want almost $30.00 per jug for it but it beats the price for Amsoil or Mobil motorcycle synthetics by quite a bit!
  9. RossKean
    Get it done ASAP. At this stage, you may be just dealing with a weak spring but the more slipping that goes on will further damage the friction plates and eventually the steel plates, probably crud up the oil with wear material as well. (From what I've heard, you have to really burn it out to wear the steels below spec) I guess I think the same as you - if there's any appreciable wear to the friction plates, I would probably change them out while I have it apart; just for the peace of mind. I also put a fair number of kilometers on my Venture and I'm just waiting for the first signs of a slipping clutch. Current preventative maintenance (in the next week or two) is to replace brake and clutch hydraulic lines with braided stainless - I think the lines are original in my 2002 RSMV. (Hopefully, I can stave off problems for at least a little while.) It had 33,000 km on it when I bought it less than a year ago and I'm pretty close to 65,000 km now (almost 20,000 miles in a short rainy Maritime riding season). Give me a ring if you find yourself in the Fredericton area; my cellphone # is in my profile. (Is Seaking meaning you are looking for something or is it a reference to a Canadian Navy military helicopter?) Ross
  10. RossKean
    I asked in another thread but I think it got buried... I am replacing my clutch and front brake lines with braided stainless (2002 RSMV) and, of course, flushing the systems thoroughly with clean brake fluid. I'm flushing the rear brake but not planning to replace the lines. As far as I know, these are the original lines and I have no idea whether the previous owner ever did any service on the systems. I don't have any obvious issues but its definitely time for some preventative maintenance. Anyway, Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinder (every 2 years, I think). Does anyone do this if they don't have a problem? Is it easy? What about any seals in the slave cylinders? Anything else I should know before I dive in? Thanks Ross
  11. RossKean
    I think my spring is OK - no evident slipping but its time for me to do some long-needed maintenance and hopefully prevent future issues. I was just going to bleed the system and replace fluid but thought it might be time to change the hydraulic line as well (bike is a 2002 and has original lines) so I bought the braided stainless line; was told that the upgrade is worthwhile. (doing the same for the front brakes as well.) Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinders (brake and clutch) every 2 years - does anyone do this? Ross Sorry; didn't mean to hijack!
  12. RossKean
    The first part of Route 6 really sucks but I think the 6 and 16 is the nicest route across Maine - right to Gorham NH and down to Conway (I have done the #1 (traffic and slow), #2 (boring), #9 (also boring), I95 (really boring) etc). Kancamangus, Franconia Notch, Mt. Washington, Laconia area etc. is some of the nicest riding in New Hampshire. I usually make it down there a couple of times per year. Planning to go again this fall with a trip to include significant riding in New Hampshire, Vermont and a swing through the Adirondacks in New York. Don't know whether I'll venture any further west than that. Probably close to a couple thousand miles by the time I make it back. Ross
  13. RossKean
    The problem is that the camera figures an average exposure for whats in the frame (some cameras do center averaging but this still isn't enough). The moon is very bright compared to the background and only takes a small portion of the frame. You actually need proper exposure for just the moon and unless you have a very fine spot meter, you will greatly overexpose the moon. As others have said, you need to switch to manual exposure and either increase the shutter speed or decrease the aperture by several stops. A lower ISO setting for the sensor sensitivity might also help. The beauty of digital photography is that you can try a bunch of different settings without cost and zero in on the optimum for a particular condition. Again, as already mentioned, use a tripod.
  14. RossKean
    Goose Please tell us that at least the rug is in the garage; not your livingroom!
  15. RossKean
    Goose Thanks for the heads-up on the Elite III pressure. I may have read it but obviously forgot and aired the rear up to what I used to run. Will fix it but I'm sure it has nothing to do with my problem. Ross
  16. RossKean
    SilverT I am also enjoying the bike but I really want to get things fixed. I replaced the front (Metzeler) when I first got the bike with no improvement in "pull". I just replaced both tires with Dunlop Elite IIIs. I am running 40 psi front and 42 rear. Nice tires but no improvement. I have also messed with air in the front shocks - anything from 0-7lb; making sure both are equal - no difference.
  17. RossKean
    Mine was pretty "notchy" feeling when I pulled in the clutch. Replaced the bushing, greased well and all is good. Something worth checking for sure. Ross
  18. RossKean
    Goose Interesting... I had not really considered the dynamics of the "crown effect" but (in my case) this is not the explaination. I have experienced the pull on flat roads and while riding the crown. Squeeze Whether its swingarm, forks, axle or frame (or other) I don't want to start just trying stuff. I would like to find the root cause and repair or replace as necessary. Moving the swingarm to one side might make the front and rear tires track more in line but may not affect the pull. I think it has more to do with the apparent "tilt" of the rear wheel vs. the front. Again, I don't mean to hijack SilverT's thread, but this issue has been somewhat frustrating for me in terms of not being able to get any sort of definitive answer from Yamaha. Ross
  19. RossKean
    SilverT Don't mean to hijack, but my experience may be relevant, if not particularly helpful. I have the same issue and have looked at a number of things. I bought the bike (2002) last summer and although it is rideable, the pull is always there - slight but persistent to the left. In response to other comments: Road crown would take it to the right (not left), no change with new tires, no loaded saddlebag on one side, never been in an accident (as far as I know), forks are even and fork pressures on both sides are equal, steering neck is tight, forks are at equal height, swingarm bearings are good, not a crosswind situation, I sit straight in the saddle etc. I posted on this subject last year ( See Post ) and I have not had much luck. (Note: Made a mistake in the original posting; pull is to left, not right as per the title.) Yamaha (both dealer and corporate) haven't been any help. On my bike, the front and rear wheels are not perfectly lined up (checked with a straightedge) but someone from Yamaha Corporate says that this is "normal". Also, with the front wheel blocked with the brake rotor perpendicular to the floor, there is a perceptible "tilt" to the rear wheel (top to the right and bottom to the left) checked using a carpenter's square. The forks were "checked" by the dealer and I was told everything was OK but in the absence of specifications, I'm not sure how they could tell. I have not been able to get any alignment-related specifications from Yamaha to find out what the range of "normal" might be. Dealer hasn't been able to get this information either. The only thing that someone at Yamaha (Corporate) suggested was to take it to a motorcycle alignment specialist such as Computrack http://www.gmd-computrack.com/ I guess Yamaha feels their responsibilities do not extend to helping someone after expiration of warranty. (I may yet end out at Computrack but the only Canadian location is in Toronto; 1700 km from where I live. Costs would not be trivial) There is no provision for alignment adjustment in the rear end of this shaft-drive, unlike belt or chain drive bikes. At this stage, my best guess is a problem with the swingarm; either bent from a bad bump or defective from day-one. Either that or there is an issue with the frame and I have no idea how to check that. This would have to have been a manufacturing defect. It might be front end, but the measurements I have made suggest that the problem is with the rear - when the rear rotor is set perpendicular, the chassis seems to have a slight lean to the right. As I mentioned, this handling issue is slight but it isn't "right". I suspect that this may have been the situation from when the bike was new and perhaps I am a little fussier that the previous owner when it comes to performance/handling. Within reason, I would try anything. I would even change out the swingarm at my expense if I knew that would be the solution. Again, no specifications and can't seem to find anyone who can help diagnose or repair. If you get anywhere with this, I would really appreciate finding out. I like the bike and would like to keep it for awhile. Ross Edit: In my original post, I mentioned Metzeler tires - same issues with new Dunlop Elite III. Oscillation of handlebars was eliminated by replacement of front tire and tightening of steering neck.
  20. RossKean
    Newfoundland would be a separate side trip; its not on the way to anywhere. You would have to ride Nova Scotia to the northeast end and take the ferry from North Sydney to either Port aux Basques or Argentia. Make sure you ride the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia (Cape Breton). Newfoundland by itself is a great MC destination and to spend less than 4-5 days there would not do it justice (a week or more would be better, if you have the time). If you would only have a couple of days on the island, I would suggest taking the ferry to Port aux Basques (shorter crossing (~6 hr) and less expensive) and focus on the western part of Newfoundland; especially Gros Morne National Park on the Northern Peninsula. North-central coast (Twillingate, Fogo) and east coast (Bonavista, Terra Nova Park, Avalon Peninsula, St. John's) are also great. If you want information on motorcycle riding in Newfoundland, try this website. Ask some questions and I'm sure you will get a lot of responses and suggestions. Newfoundlanders are among the most friendly people I have met anywhere. (Watch out for Moose on the highways, especially during evening hours!!) I was there last year and I plan to go back in a couple of weeks. The ferry is a good long day's ride from where I live so getting there is not a big deal for me. Ferry reservations are STRONGLY recommended. Check here. Sounds like a great trip. Ross
  21. RossKean
    After a mega dose of Seafoam, it is probably a good idea to change your oil. Depending upon the state of the upper end of your engine, a lot of crud can make it into the oil. Ross
  22. RossKean
    Since you are most of the way there, you should plan a few days in Newfoundland - only trouble is where to spend the time. Some great riding there.
  23. RossKean
    I am also long legged. Because of the angle of my knees/ankles etc., I cannot brake with my feet on the boards. When I use the rear brake, I lift my foot completely off the floorboard. I don't use a lot of rear brake in normal driving, other than slow speed maneuvering - sometimes in combination with front brake and downshifting if I have to bleed off speed ina hurry. Its far too easy to lock up that rear brake! Ross
  24. RossKean
    Dave I hate doing a trip with major time constraints. As it is, I will be doing three days of almost 450 miles on secondary roads. No time for side trips but would consider alternate routes - have already changed my mind a few times. As it is, I may find this is too much; especially if I find a good reason to stop for a couple of hours somewhere along the way. I'm trying to cram as much as possible into a couple of vacation days and an unprecedented (for this year) three day window of favorable weather forecast. Ross
  25. RossKean
    Reaney I would be delighted to take you up on your offer of accommodation!! I think it will work with a slightly modified travel itinerary. Only one thing... You pick the place but dinner is on me! I'll send you a PM confirming details and get your contact information. Thanks Ross
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