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Denden

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Everything posted by Denden

  1. Denden
    There is one that it not the same...that's the one for the '83. Best to go for a '84 to '89 TCI. '90 to '93 was different, they are digital.
  2. Denden
    Try changing the final drive oil. Maybe use a synthetic gear lube, like Mobil 1.
  3. Denden
    Very much like the Bunkhouse. Looks to be about the same price. Trailmaster has been around a long time. For many years around Goldwingers, the best bang for the buck cargo trailer was the CM2000. I like the looks of their "Arizona" cargo trailer. I miss my Bunkhouse, I wish I'd never sold it. The wife and I have fond memories of the many trips, and many campgrounds we stayed in. It makes touring much more of an "experience to remember". Motels are nice, air conditioning is becoming a MUST the older we get, but the PRICES of motels, compared to state campgrounds, or KOA. Link to website: http://www.trailmasterinc.com/ Oh, by the way, my personal experience...the best tent pegs are the ones that look like giant nails, about 12 inches long, with a plastic collar at the head. Never had one blow out. But they can be stubborn to pull out when it's time to pack up. I carried a variety of tent pegs...including some that looked like pointed angle iron (for sandy soil), big plastic ones, the thin and mostly useless ones that come with the tents...a variety to use depending on the soil you are on. But the giant nails worked good on everything except rocky soil.
  4. Denden
    Yep, I seem to recall this coming up a while ago. Read the question someone asked. The 1200's ('83-'85) have the clutch that uses 6 coil springs. The 1300's ('86-'93) uses a diaphram clutch spring. The outline of the clutch cover is the same, but the depth is slightly different.
  5. Denden
    I have often read about carb problems coming up, after turning the petcock to reserve, after reserve hasn't been used in a long time. The petcock has 2 inside tubes feeding gas, the "run" tube is slightly longer than the "reserve" tube. So if you leave it on run and never use "reserve", dirt, crud, rust and water will settle into the bottom of the gas tank below the level of the "run" tube. Then when you get into the situation and turn it to "reserve", you get all that old crud going into your carbs, or clogging the fuel filter (or both). The way to avoid this is to leave the petcock on "reserve" all the time, and pay attention to the gas guage, and also reset the trip odometer each time you fill up, so you have 2 things telling you how much gas is left.
  6. Denden
    it's not a gate valve, it's a restrictor, or "snubber". It's purpose is to even out the peaks in the vacuum pulses. The carb syncronizers use the same thing in the lines, whether it's a mercury stick sync tool, or the Carbtune.
  7. Denden
    There wasn't one on my '83 when I bought it from the 2nd owner with 32k miles on it. I'm pretty sure that it was completely stock at that point. Since only the '83 uses vacuum from the base of the #2 carb (differnt from all other years), I don't think there is supposed to be a restrictor in the line.
  8. Denden
    I think you are right, Gearhead. Anyhow, the PAJ #2 for 1200 and 1300 is the same...180, at least in the spec sheets. but I seem to recall working on some 1300 carbs with a PAJ #2 that was 170. But PAJ #2 wouldn't have any affect on slide movement. The "outer" side of the diaphram is vented directly thru a big slot to the top of the carb, open into the airbox. BUT...the 1200 and the 1300 have different jet needle and needle jet. So it is best to keep the slide hole the right size for the needle jet/jet needle. Also, 1200 and 1300 have different length diaphram spring. It would get pretty complicated trying to sort out all the variables. I try to keep it simple, keep it stock. At least for the diaphram slide and needle and needle jet. But to tell the truth, I put in the 1300 slides before I noticed the difference in the 1200 and 1300 slides. Then after I noticed the difference, I filled in the hole with epoxy and drilled it to the correct size. But I can't say I noticed any difference in performance...power or mpg's, maybe a slight difference in throttle response (maybe, I don't remember).
  9. Denden
    Using a drill bit to measure...the '83-'85 slide has a bleed hole that is 3/32 inch (2.381 mm). The '86 to '93 slide has a bleed hole that is between 1/8 inch and 9/64 inch...best I can do. The 1/8 inch drill bit is a little loose in the hole, the 9/64 won't fit in the hole. That makes it roughly 17/128 inch. (3.374 mm) HOWEVER...as far as I know, you can't get the '83-'85 part anymore. If you order the 41R-14940-09-00 it will be updated to the '86-'93 part. What I did to replace the diaphram and slides on my '83...I got the '86-'93 part, and filled in the bleed hole with Plastic-Weld epoxy. then I drilled it out to 3/32. (I still have the original slides from my '83, and some old ones from a '86 Venture, so I'm measuring them now, not guessing.)
  10. Denden
    Right, all models '83 to '93 use the same 34mm Mikuni carbs, but there are some jetting differences. There is also a difference in the carb slide. The bleed hole in the '83 - '85 is slightly smaller than the bleed hole in '86-'93. The bleed hole is the hole in the bottom of the slide that is next to the hole that the needle goes into. The bleed hole allows the venturi vacuum to lift the slide. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect
  11. Denden
    here's a few pictures of the custom collector that Mark McDade makes...the one SilvrT posted about. I have one on my '83 (ceramic coated steel). A bit louder than stock, not bad. More low end torque, more power in upper revs. Best if you re-jet the carbs one size larger main jets.
  12. Denden
    In my opinion, a Superbrace fork brace is a MUST HAVE for any 1st gen. It will help avoid the "wobbles" that you can sometimes get at interstate speeds, especially when you hit a bump in the middle of a sweeper.
  13. Denden
    If you have to turn the pilot screws out THAT far, it's a good bet that the jets are clogged. Also, gum and varnish built up in the float bowl will make the floats stick, and that's probably why the gas is coming out the overflow hose. It sounds like the bike has been sitting for a long time with gas in the carbs, and the gas has turned to varnish. You should get some Seafoam, and pour the whole can in the tank. run the engine until you are sure it has gotten to the carbs, then shut it off and let it sit overnight. Run it again the next day, ride it if you can. If you can't ride it, at least let it warm up real good, rev it (quickly) a lot, then let it sit overnight again. I can't say this will definitely get your carbs clean, but it is a good start. If Seafoam doesn't work right away, it might work after a while. But the best thing to do, if you want to be sure it's gonna run right, is to pull the carbs, separate them, and clean them. And by all means get a carb sync tool. This V4 HAS TO BE SYNCED TO RUN RIGHT.
  14. Denden
    Yup, fits all 1st gens...'83 to '93. Well, except the ones that have rubber gators on the forks, but even those, you can trim the rubber away and make them fit.
  15. Denden
    That's an early SuperBrace brand fork brace. I have one just like it on my '83. The newer SuperBrace looks a little different.
  16. Denden
    Is it possible that having different psi in each fork leg would cause or amplify a wobble? I installed the Progressive Suspension fork air equalizing kit on my RSV, it links the air valves in the 2 fork legs together...that makes sure that they are both the same. But as for the clutch whine...definitely try going to another dealer, if there is one in your area. In S.E. Michigan, the quality of customer service varies a LOT from one dealer to the next...from "sucks" to "what can we do for you".
  17. Denden
    You might consider just replacing with stock Yamaha parts. The stock clutch is very good. You will need to order the friction plates, the diaphram spring, the bolts for the diaphram spring (6 of them), and replace the wire retainer, and the clutch cover gasket. The steel plates will probably look shiney from wear, but you can use some emery cloth on them to take the shine off. Rick H at Buckeye performance can fix you up with everything that you need, plus any advice. www.Buckeyeperformance.com If you do the job with the bike on the sidestand, you don't even have to drain the oil, because all the oil will go to the other side of the bike. Here's a link to the tech library article... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1062
  18. Denden
    Just so ya know...the chrome covers that you have on your forks were an aftermarket product made by Rivco for many years. I have them on my '83. But Rivco quick making them about 5 years ago.
  19. Denden
    I agree with JGorom...one of the best additions to my RSV. They are a bit expensive, but they are worth it. I got mine at: https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html $146.35, you might shop around and find a slightly better price, but not by much.
  20. Denden
    MrRadi8...I made my RK brakets using the diagram you posted. I bought some 1/4" thick 2" wide steel at Home depot to make them, I think it comes in a 6 foot length. But I didn't go exactly by the template. The RK mufflers will fit slightly differently on each RSV...it depends on how much the entry end of the RK muffler slips over the RSV header. So hole #1 and #2 will be about right, but drill those first, mount the brackets on the mufflers. Then test mount the mufflers, measure and center them side to side on the bike, then mark where hole #3 should be. It will be close to the template, but not exact.
  21. Denden
    Carlos...I just installed a over-ride fan switch in my '83. I wired the switch to be in parallel with the fan relay contacts. So if for some reason the relay fails, my switch will still turn on the fan.
  22. Denden
    Hey Dave...was the Napa part #FS-147 an exact replcement, or did you have to modify something to make it fit?
  23. Denden
    The hub has 6 "pins" that fit into the rubber snubbers built into the wheel. Each rubber snubber has a steel tube center, that the pins fit into. It can be difficult to get the pins out of the snubber tubes, there will be some corrosion. Try some penetrating oil, let it sit for a while, then gently pry a little at each pin. This link is from the 2nd gen tech library, but the 1st gen rear wheel is exactly the same. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705
  24. Denden
    Yes you have to remove the tank to pull the diaphrams out. I don't think you should mess with the mixture screws...but you can get to them with the tank on. The best thing to do at this point is sync the carbs, first. This V4 runs best with the carbs synced, out of sync can cause a number of problems, depending how far off they are. Poor gas mileage, sluggish acceleration, vibration and shaking are all possibly caused by out of sync. And I wish I could have gone to Ft. Collins, too!
  25. Denden
    There is a good post in the 1st gen tech library on how to troubleshoot the TCI... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10640
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