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Denden

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Everything posted by Denden

  1. Zanotti's prices are good if you order multiple items at once. The handling charge is just about the same for 1 item as it is for 10. What I do is keep a list of the stuff I want, and when I get enough items, I place my order.
  2. This is just a suggestion...I haven't tried it. We all know the RSV rear brakes lock up and skid WAY to easy. So maybe if you use the EBC Kevlar brake pads on the rear, instead of the HH (high friction), it might be easier to avoid rear brake lockup. The EBC Kevlar pads for the rear are FA123 (without the "HH"). I use the EBC Kevlar pads on my 1st gen to avoid ruining the hard to get rotors. The Kevlar brake pads have less initial "grab", but still have good braking power.
  3. The jet sizes Fred posted are for the '86-'93 Ventures, the 1300cc motor. The '83-'85 (1200cc) used different jets. Main jets are 117.5, pilot jets are 42.5 on some early models non-Royale ('83-'84), and Royales ('83-'85) have 37.5 pilot jets. My '83 (also '84) has a 180 pilot air jet. All '83-'84 Standard and Royale have 180 pilot air jet.
  4. As Pegscraper mentioned, the V-Max rear drive is a direct bolt on replacement...lower gearing, more acceleration. Also, There is a guy who makes a tubular exhaust collector to replace the stock box collector...better exhaust flow, good for more low end torque. http://markspipe.com/index.htm Here's a picture...stock collector is the top one, Mark's is the bottom one (I have one on my '83). Add some low restriction mufflers (I have Jardines), K&N air filter, and some carb re-jetting, and you will like the results.
  5. Just so you know, there are two types of hitches. The hitches for the '83-'85 are different than the hitches that fit the '86-'93.
  6. Mine cost $160, but that was quite a few years ago, when he first started making them for Ventures. The last I heard he was selling the ceramic coated ones for about $200 (might be more now), and the Srainless steel ones for $300 (that was a LONG time ago). These are just ballpark prices from a long time ago, but it gives you an idea of how much they cost, I don't know his present prices). You should probably just call him. He answers his own phone, nice guy to talk to.
  7. I think Don changed something, so we can upload sound files. Here's my '83 with Mark's tubular exhaust collector and Jardine mufflers with the downturn cut off to make a squared off end.
  8. OR, you could have a single pickup, but with 4 "nodes" on the timing wheel, with one node longer than the others. I've seen that too.
  9. Just a thought, I don't know for sure, but maybe it fires 2 plugs at once, one at the correct time,( at near tdc compresion ) and one that is on the exxhaust stroke.(?) Some other motors do that. Called, I think, waste spark system.
  10. I think there was a black/grey sold in europe only. It was called a '94, but (I seem to remember) it was actually left over '93, or built in '93 and called '94. I saw a picture of one a long time ago, they were pretty rare, even in Europe.
  11. Best price I found for the stock replacement K&N's is here... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&viewitem=&item=120164453589&_trksid=p3907.m32
  12. Top this for a speeding ticket... Two British traffic patrol officers from North Berwick were involved in an unusual incident while checking for speeding motorists on the A1 Great North Road. One of the officers used a hand-held radar device to check the speed of a vehicle approaching over the crest of a hill, and was surprised when the speed was recorded at over 300 mph. Their radar suddenly stopped working and the officers were not able to reset it. Just then a deafening roar over the treetops revealed that the radar had in fact latched on to a NATO Tornado fighter jet which was engaged in a low-flying exercise over the Border district, approaching from the North Sea. Back at police headquarters the chief constable fired off a stiff complaint to the RAF Liaison office. Back came the reply in true laconic RAF style: "Thank you for your message, which allows us to complete the file on this incident. You may be interested to know that the tactical computer in the Tornado had detected the presence of, and subsequently locked onto, your hostile radar equipment and automatically sent a jamming signal back to it. Furthermore, an air-to-ground missile aboard the fully-armed aircraft had also automatically locked onto your equipment. Fortunately the pilot flying the Tornado recognized the situation for what it was, quickly responded to the missile systems alert status, and was able to override the automated defence system before the missile was launched and your hostile radar installation was destroyed. "Good Day."
  13. That's good news, Eddie. Did the factory service rep say if they did anything else to the bike besides just replacing the rear drive? Replace the swingarm? driveshaft? rear axle? Adjust swingarm bearings? Anyhow, if I was you, I'd replace the oil in the rear drive after 200 to 400 miles, to make sure it doesn't self-destruct from break-in metal filings. And I'm sure you're gonna love those Avon's.
  14. I think Rick is right on the early oil change for the rear drive. I bought a used '06 with about 4k miles on it. When I change the final drive oil, it was obviously not changed since new. The oil was BLACK and the magnetic drain plug was covered with more metal mud than I've ever seen, covered the whole drain plug about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Of course the rear drive now has a whine. I pulled the rear drive and found that the lash was WAY out of spec...hold the spline drive still and see how much you can turn the input drive back and forth. The amount of lash is what will cause the whine. I'm sure that the lack of an oil change in the first 4k miles has ruined this rear drive. I compared it to a V-Max rear drive that I have with about 8k miles on it...the V-Max rear drive has almost no free play (near zero lash, about the best you can get it) and it makes no noise at all.
  15. :stirthepot: I agree with Redneck. Bigger carbs will increase power at the high end of the rpm range. And actually bigger carbs MIGHT hurt the low and mid-range power by lowering the velocity of the air flowing thru the venturi, although not as much with our variable venturi carbs (the carb slides change the size of the venturi according to air velocity). Air velocity thru the carb is important for proper atomization of the gas into the air. Here's a quote from Rider magazine Oct. 2007. On their road test of the Kawasaki Concours...."Kawasaki used several innovations to better suit the ZX-14's 1352cc inline four to touring...the bores in the four throttle bodies have been narrowed from 44mm to 40mm for increased intake velocity and better low and midrange throttle response" So the sport bike that needs power at high rpm uses the 44mm throttle bodies and the Concours is a sport/tourer uses 40mm for more low and midrange.
  16. I got some good gains in low end torque with my '01 RSV. I installed Harley Road King mufflers with both baffles drilled out. Then I re-jetted the carbs...went up one size on each main jet, and replaced the stock 15 pilot jet on each carb with a 17.5 pilot jet. Also adjusted the pilot screws (idle mixture). I had very snappy throttle response, from right off idle. Smoother low end cruising. More power all around. MPG's went from mid 40's to low 40's. there is an article in the 2nd gen tech library on how to re-jet your carbs...not very hard to do if you have a little mechanical ability. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7830 -------------------- http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=502 ------------------ I can give you the Yamaha part numbers for the jets if you want them. I order the jets from an online vendor, not very expensive. http://www.zanottimotor.com/ And the Harley RK mufflers sound great. ----------------- OK, if anyone wants to do this, you need: 4 pilot jets 17.5 part number 4KM-14142-17-00 2 main jets 125 part number 3G2-14231-25-00 -------------- By the way, I didn't shim the carb needles as it says in the article. I tried it and all it seemed to do was lower the mpg's. So I put the needles back to stock (no shims) and got some mpg's back, and no noticable change in power.
  17. Yep, the pressure sensor is the same for all years. The difference in the '83 TCI is how the pressure sensor signal is used at idle. The '83 needs to sense zero vacuum at idle (the port on the '83 #2 carb is above the throttle plate at idle...zero vacuum until the throttle is opened. If an '83 TCI has vacuum at idle, the ignition will be advanced, and idle speed will speed up and be erratic.) All other years, the TCI reads manifold vacuum at idle. Actually, the biggest problem comes if you try to mount '84 to '93 carbs to an '83. The problem then is, you have no place to connect the pressure sensor to the #2 carb...the '83 #2 carb is the only one of all years of Venture that has the port at the base.
  18. The '83 TCI is different from all other years. The pressure sensor (vacuum advance) uses the vacuum from the #2 carburator base, all other years use vacuum from the #2 carb manifold. You can use later year's TCI in the '83, but you just have to relocate the vacuum line to the pressure sensor to the manifold port that is used for carb sync. And put a cap on the port below the #2 carb.
  19. Well, that's why I wrapped it with electrical tape. I replace the tape, maybe once a year or so. Hasn't been a problem. Chrome still good. In fact, the Jardine chrome is some very high quality stuff. Mine still look like new after maybe 7 or 8 years. One exception is where the mounting tabs are welded on to the muffler body. I had to re-paint that weld, after about 5 years there was a little rust there.
  20. No jetting changes necessary, going from stock mufflers to Jardines.
  21. I've got jardines on my '83. I had the same problem at first...the rubber bumper kept the centerstand low enough to drag pretty easily in a left turn. So I finally just took the bumper off. With it off, the centerstand is at just about the stock position, and the spring holding it up isn't putting a lot of pressure on it. No problems with it rattling. I wrapped some electrical tape around where the bumper attaches, that area doesn't seem to get hot.
  22. Great work, Kit. Thanks for your effort. I'm printing this and keeping it.
  23. Thanks for posting that, Randy. A real good lesson on defensive driving, and the need to pay attention at all times and ANTICIPATE bad situations. What you did comes from years of experience. By the way, I agree 100% with what KitCarson said. BAD idea, Cowpuc. Your one man crusade is NOT going to change anything, and it might get you seriously hurt someday. It's just not worth it. Control your emotions, forget about it, keep going, enjoy the day. I try my best to not take the dumb actions of others on the road personally and let it affect my emotions and therefore affect how I ride. Stay calm and in control. I try to react to dumb drivers, emotionally, the same way I would react to a tree falling in the road in front of me. It's just another danger to try to anticipate and avoid. No anger, no revenge, no "teaching a lesson", no thought of "how dare you do that to ME?" If you are angry or emotionally upset, you are not riding at your best, not keeping your mind on your riding, and the situation around you.
  24. I just sent the money thru PayPal for 4 bells. I have a lot of gremlins to chase away.
  25. That's the one. give him a call, he doesn't put the Venture pipes on his website. Last I heard, about $200 for ceramic coated. He can also make Stainless Steel, more $$$.
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