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Showing results for tags 'mold'.
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From what material and what method do you use to make a mold to make a replacement tab ... those tabs that, for example, hold the side covers on on a 1st gen.?? I'm thinking a mold where you'd pour the Plastex into and then once hardened, the mold could be either simply removed (such as a 2-piece mold) or just broken off. Pics and instructions would be great... do we already have this somewhere???
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'91 Venture Royal. Stupid thing stands almost straight up when its on the kick stand. Makes it kinda difficult to put the stand up with a passenger aboard 'cause I have to lean the bike to the right. I took the stand off and used a grinder to flatten the foot. Apparently the mold is shaped so the foot has a "peak" at the mold line. This gave the bike a little lean, but not as much as I'd like. Question is, is this an inherent design characteristic, or is the stand too long. HINT: The stand was replaced by the pervious owner. Thanks! Y'All ride safe....
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Some have asked me on how I built the BEERCART . I searched through my photos and was able to come up with these . I may have more , but these should explain enough . First I started with the floor , made of 7/16" OSB plywood . I built a box and ribs of same material . While constructing the internal box and ribs , I used screws to fasten them together and also made in such a way that when the time came , I could take apart and remove after I fiberglassed the body . In this first 4 photos , I had already laid the floor , constructed the inner framework and ribs . I then laid layers of 1/2 foam board on which I cut into widths that would maintain a thickness that when I sanded/molded , it would still hold it's rigidity . I used Elmer's glue and 3" drywall screws to secure the layers . I used a belt sander with 50 grit and a larger wasp to shape the mold . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT1.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT2.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT3.jpg In these next photos , I needed to be able to maneuver the mold to work around . So I placed a pipe through the mold to form an axis and made a stand to form a rotisserie likeness to spin the mold to work much easier . Also at the time of when the photos were taken , I had already proceeded to my next step in the mold shaping of finer lines at which I used drywall compound to smooth out the body lines and to define the shape of the BEERCART . There was a large amount of hand sanding at this stage ! http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT6.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT8.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT9.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT10.jpg The pictures show above is what I believe was the funnest of all the steps it took to build the BEERCART . Because at this time I was able to express on how I wanted the BEERCART to become . It was also a challenge not only to form the mold , but to balance each side to mirror itself . Although I know that I did not exactly match each side to be a perfect match from one side to the other , I know I got pretty darn close for a homemade project . Now I did not get photos of the next step , but I can explain it to you very simply . After I finished "all" the modeling , I used latex house paint to paint the mold on which I used at least 2 heavy coats of paint . For the reason of that fiberglass resin would dissolve the foam that I used to make the mold . This paint became a barrier between the chemical reaction which would occur such as pouring gasoline in a Stryo-foam cup . After the paint dried , I applied a generous coat or 2 of Turtle Wax . This became the release agent that would allow me to take the mold apart after fiberglassing . We do not want the fiberglass to bond with the mold , as we will be removing the mold eventually . Fiberglassing : There are numerous websites that will show you what you need and how to apply . I was fortunate to have some experience and also help from a friend whom builds boats . On the BEERCART , I used multiple layers of fiberglass matting and cloth . I applied the fiberglass in strips and layers to eventually form an 1/4" wall throughout the construction . In some places I either applied more for bracing and/or sheer strength . Here is a photo after we glassed the BEERCART and removed the mold . It has a greenish tint to it because of the Turtle Wax we used as a release agent . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT11.jpg Removing the mold . ; After we glassed the BEERCART , I started unfastening the inner box , then the ribs , and then prying out the foam .. Then I used sandpaper to scuff up and remove the release agent and wipe away with an acetone rag . After we removed any of the waxes from the release agent , we started on filling and body work . Filling ad sanding , filling and sanding until we gained a smooth prime finish . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT12.jpg Meanwhile and to take a break from the bodywork , I started on the trailer frame . I used thick wall 2"x2" aluminum square tubing . I did a layout on plywood , then cut the tubing to match the layout . I used 500 lb torsion axles on the BEERCART . After all the cutting , we weld the aluminum tubing . It took me 45 minutes to cut the frame pieces and 3 hours of welding . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT13.jpg After the frame was all welded , we went back to the body . Just like in the auto repair body shop , we prepped the BEERCART , primed and then painted . We finally assembles the frame and body and then added accents , lights , mags/tires , undercoating , and other bells and whistles . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT16.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT20.jpg To say to this date , the BEERCART is still not finished . I am constantly adding new bells and whistles . I added a linear actuator with remote to open the hatch this past summer . I plan on adding an extra fuel cell to help extend my range . Wife says I still need to add the satellite dish and Mailbox ! The BEERRCART is 45" wide , 6' long with 3' tongue . Weighs approx 190 lbs dry and pull great . I have pulled it approx 33 K so far without any issues other than having to reposition my load now and then . Total cost in materials have run me an estimated $900.00 and about 5/6 months of fun in labor . But keep in mind that I did get a few Good Buddy deals along the way . I may have missed a few step explaining the process in building the BEERCART , but I think you can fill in the voids . If not ask away , will be more than happy to explain . BEER30 .
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I ordered and had installed a Pirelli MT66 rear tire on the front of my 05 RSTD. Had thoughts about changing the tire myself, but a local tire place did it for $15, the deal of the day. Also installed dynabeads. Don't know for what reason, but the steering changed completely. Much, much quicker than the Metzler 880 I took off. I think about turning and I am in the other lane, either the new tire or the mold release compound, but will take some time to get used to. Also took all of the air out of both front and rear shocks, so I am riding a different bike now.
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I have ordered the cast Pewter Guardian bells with our VentureRider logo. I will take orders for the laser engraved black bells later if there is enough interest. The price isn't quiet as good as I had hoped and is costing me a fairly significant amount up front for the carving of a wax model and then the molds make from the model. For that reason, I am going to start taking the orders now in hopes of defraying some of that expense out of my pocket. The price will be $12.00 per bell plus $1.80 shipping per bell. For those ordering more than one bell, please add 50 cents shipping for each additional bell. So, 1 bell would be $13.80, 2 bells would be $26.30, 3 bells would be $38.80, 4 would be $51.30 and 6 bells would be...well...you get the idea. I'm sure that shipping will be more to Canada but I don't know how much. I will try to get a shipping price to Canada tomorrow. It shouldn't be too much higher. I WILL ship only USPS. PayPal will charge me 2.9%+.30 cents per order but I will absorb that. No problem. So, that's the deal. I have ordered 250 bells for this first order. If I run out, I can get the next ones quicker as the molds will already be made. Delivery time for this first order is estimated at 3 weeks. I know that some of you want to receive these as gifts and do the exchange. You can work that out and start another thread for the swaps or however you wish to do it. If you buy bells and want them sent to somebody else, just include the address where you want them sent in the "notes" section when you PayPal or with your money order if you pay that way. I'm also going to send an email to all our members in case there are those who have not seen the info on the bells. So, those of you who are willing to do so, please get your payments in starting now. You may send payment via PayPal to dnelson@axcesswave.com or by mail to: Don Nelson 16898 Hawley Road Oberlin, OH 44074 Thanks I did a lot of searching and got a lot of quotes before I proceeded with this project. To be totally honest, I could have gotten these done at a better price had I ordered them from China. I had some very good quotes from China and I'm sure that they would have been fine. The thing is though, I'm not 100% sure what they were made of. I was told "zinc alloy", "nickel plated", "pewter type process", etc. and etc. and I'm sure that any of those would have worked but just wasn't sure what we were getting. The other thing is, I really do like to deal with a USA or Canadian company if at all possible. So, I ended up paying more for these but I think I made the right decision for us. The USA manufacturer that I am dealing with is hand carving the model from clay. He will then make an epoxy or silicone mold from the wax model. From that mold he creates a sterling silver mold as the final mold. They are then cast with 100% lead free pewter.
