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Some have asked me on how I built the BEERCART . I searched through my photos and was able to come up with these . I may have more , but these should explain enough . First I started with the floor , made of 7/16" OSB plywood . I built a box and ribs of same material . While constructing the internal box and ribs , I used screws to fasten them together and also made in such a way that when the time came , I could take apart and remove after I fiberglassed the body . In this first 4 photos , I had already laid the floor , constructed the inner framework and ribs . I then laid layers of 1/2 foam board on which I cut into widths that would maintain a thickness that when I sanded/molded , it would still hold it's rigidity . I used Elmer's glue and 3" drywall screws to secure the layers . I used a belt sander with 50 grit and a larger wasp to shape the mold . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT1.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT2.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT3.jpg In these next photos , I needed to be able to maneuver the mold to work around . So I placed a pipe through the mold to form an axis and made a stand to form a rotisserie likeness to spin the mold to work much easier . Also at the time of when the photos were taken , I had already proceeded to my next step in the mold shaping of finer lines at which I used drywall compound to smooth out the body lines and to define the shape of the BEERCART . There was a large amount of hand sanding at this stage ! http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT6.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT8.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT9.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT10.jpg The pictures show above is what I believe was the funnest of all the steps it took to build the BEERCART . Because at this time I was able to express on how I wanted the BEERCART to become . It was also a challenge not only to form the mold , but to balance each side to mirror itself . Although I know that I did not exactly match each side to be a perfect match from one side to the other , I know I got pretty darn close for a homemade project . Now I did not get photos of the next step , but I can explain it to you very simply . After I finished "all" the modeling , I used latex house paint to paint the mold on which I used at least 2 heavy coats of paint . For the reason of that fiberglass resin would dissolve the foam that I used to make the mold . This paint became a barrier between the chemical reaction which would occur such as pouring gasoline in a Stryo-foam cup . After the paint dried , I applied a generous coat or 2 of Turtle Wax . This became the release agent that would allow me to take the mold apart after fiberglassing . We do not want the fiberglass to bond with the mold , as we will be removing the mold eventually . Fiberglassing : There are numerous websites that will show you what you need and how to apply . I was fortunate to have some experience and also help from a friend whom builds boats . On the BEERCART , I used multiple layers of fiberglass matting and cloth . I applied the fiberglass in strips and layers to eventually form an 1/4" wall throughout the construction . In some places I either applied more for bracing and/or sheer strength . Here is a photo after we glassed the BEERCART and removed the mold . It has a greenish tint to it because of the Turtle Wax we used as a release agent . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT11.jpg Removing the mold . ; After we glassed the BEERCART , I started unfastening the inner box , then the ribs , and then prying out the foam .. Then I used sandpaper to scuff up and remove the release agent and wipe away with an acetone rag . After we removed any of the waxes from the release agent , we started on filling and body work . Filling ad sanding , filling and sanding until we gained a smooth prime finish . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT12.jpg Meanwhile and to take a break from the bodywork , I started on the trailer frame . I used thick wall 2"x2" aluminum square tubing . I did a layout on plywood , then cut the tubing to match the layout . I used 500 lb torsion axles on the BEERCART . After all the cutting , we weld the aluminum tubing . It took me 45 minutes to cut the frame pieces and 3 hours of welding . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT13.jpg After the frame was all welded , we went back to the body . Just like in the auto repair body shop , we prepped the BEERCART , primed and then painted . We finally assembles the frame and body and then added accents , lights , mags/tires , undercoating , and other bells and whistles . http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT16.jpg http://www.meangene.us/beercart/MCT20.jpg To say to this date , the BEERCART is still not finished . I am constantly adding new bells and whistles . I added a linear actuator with remote to open the hatch this past summer . I plan on adding an extra fuel cell to help extend my range . Wife says I still need to add the satellite dish and Mailbox ! The BEERRCART is 45" wide , 6' long with 3' tongue . Weighs approx 190 lbs dry and pull great . I have pulled it approx 33 K so far without any issues other than having to reposition my load now and then . Total cost in materials have run me an estimated $900.00 and about 5/6 months of fun in labor . But keep in mind that I did get a few Good Buddy deals along the way . I may have missed a few step explaining the process in building the BEERCART , but I think you can fill in the voids . If not ask away , will be more than happy to explain . BEER30 .
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I finally got to see the Beercart up close and personal at MD. Geez, that thing is huge! It was sitting there opened and my buddy and I were looking at it. We had just discoverd that the lid was electrically operated and the thing started closing. Then I looked over and Beer30 was sitting there watching us and smiling. Beer, that's a great looking trailer you got yourself. If I had one that size my wife just might be able to fit all her stuff in it. As it is she takes up all the room in my Neosho and I get a little space on top of the trailer for my clean underwear. Just doesn't seem fair to me. This was the first MD I have been to and you guys are the best. V7 did my carbes for me and I am most appreciative. I got to meet Beer30, Squidley and many other people who came up and said hi. I can't wait until the next MD! God bless and ride safe.
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As if I do not have enough things to do ! Earlier this week , the BEERCART sustained some scrapes and dings . Items I had suspending from my garage ceiling fell on top of her . Rather than repairing the damaged area , I chose to repaint it . Being I had paint left over from the birth of the BEERCART , I repainted it the same color . But this time I added the clear coat to it . Yesterday , I stripped her down , repaired the dings , masked her off . Repainted her this mourning and removed all the masking tape and paper . Though the paint isn't dry yet , I see that it is a closer match to the scoot . Tomorrow night , I will replace the spoiler back onto her , add a layer of rattle can bed liner to the front of her to help with the flying debris chipping her front side . Re-insulate the cooler and paint the bell-crank linkage I installed for the auto-opening lid . I had decals made this summer put onto the BEERCART . I had to remove them to repaint and they are not reusable . Thoughts of pin stripping or maybe even some air brushing on her . Decisions ....decisions ? I'll post pictures when I get her all back together . BEER30
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Hey Eck , first off "Thanks" on informing me of the linear actuators . I finally finished the mods to the "BEERCART" , other than securing down the aux battery inside , installing one limit switch and paint . I can now manually control down pressure with push button control until I get the limit switch installed . Now I need a robotic arm , that will fetch me a beer from the cooler and hand it to me on the scoot ! Got an extra one laying around at work ? Now I can raise/lower the lid and lock the lid to the "BEERCART" remotely . Call me lazy , but having to lock and unlock 2 locking mechanisms located directly under the spoiler was getting difficult at times . Project cost me around $165.00 . Linear actuator is rated 200lbs. with key-fob remote control . I made the "Bell-crank" out of steel , 3/4" axle and 1 1/2"x 1/4" flat stock . Total weight less than 8 lbs. . I place a lawn mower battery inside the "BEERCART" as it's sole power source with parallel wiring from the scoots battery via a 2 prong connection plug to recharge the battery while "on the go" or with use of a battery tender in storage . The linear actuator draws less than 2 amps under load . Circuit is protected by fuse link . I will also install a pin puller to release the actuator , just in case a malfunction occurs . Here's some pic's . BEER30
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Well till the wife can handle longer MC trips ,we will have to trailer a bit so I am building a trailer rack for the BEERCART. I have her worked up to 3-4 rides now , but going to Vogal is a bit longer on her , so we will trailer to Sleeperhawk's and Mechanic's house and ride scoot from there on . Now my MC/Ult. trailer is not large enough for both scoot and the BEERCART . So I'm in the process of building a rack to set the BC (BC = BEERCART) onto . Here are some photos of what I have accomplished so far . I still have to finish cleaning it up , finish the loading ramps , place a boat bow roller , hand crank wrinch , some minor bracing and paint . Should take a couple of more afternoons . The scoot will ride directly behind the BC . I had it on the trailer last night for adjustments and have 3-4 inches of clearence between it and the BC . By the way , if was just myself the scoot would not be trailers . I'm only doing this for the love of my wife ! But there will be no cage at Vogal . Gene
