Denden
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Everything posted by Denden
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1. When do you expect to arrive? We'll be there Thursday afternoon. 2. How many to expect for the picnic Thursday evening? Two, me and Vicki.
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Help! rear drive for 86-93?
Denden replied to beckyanne19's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The big change was made in '86. All '83-'85 rear drives are the same. And you CAN make it work, as I said in my post #6. If the $$$ makes it worth it. The thing is, with the '83-'85 final drive, the driveshaft splines are not lubricated. You have to remove the final drive to put grease on the driveshaft splines. Not really a big deal, it can be done easily with each rear tire replacement. But if not done, the driveshaft splines will eventually wear out...then you go nowhere. With the '86 model year, Yamaha redisigned the final drive so that the gear oil in the final drive also lubricated the driveshaft splines. And with the redisign, they had to change the length of the driveshaft. -
Help! rear drive for 86-93?
Denden replied to beckyanne19's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The 83 final drive can be made to fit...you will need an '83 driveshaft, and '83 plastic wheel cover (covers the splines where the wheel mates to the final drive. Your '88 plastic cover won't fit.). But I wouldn't recommend it. The '86-'93 final drive has some improvements in lubricating the driveshaft. -
Do a compression test. Check/adjust the valve clearance before you do anything else.
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Vicki and I have gonne to the Hoot many times. From the Detroit area, Knoxville is about a 12 hour ride, so it's one long day or 2 short days away. We spend a day shopping all the vendors (indoors and outside). You have to pre-register early to go on any of self-guided group rides, no last minute sign-ups allowed. Their rides always include a lunch at an interesting place. And the Smokeys are near enough for a day trip. Smokey Mountain National Park, the Cherahola Parkway, Blue Ridge Parkway...some of the best motorcycle roads in the U.S.A. It's a great way to spend a week. Book a motel early (now), the rooms fill up fast. All the parking lots are full of bikes, and all the bikers are friendly and like to talk. We always have a great time there.
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Let me know when you get home, I'll come and give you a hand with the trailer, and unloading the bike. You'll probably be too sore to do much yourself. At least let everyone know when you've made it home safely. We are all concerned about you two. Drive careful, now. Don't push it.
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Hi this is Vicki (Denden's wife). I just got a call from Squidley and he and Lona were in an accident. To quote Brad, "all is good, we walked away from it." K Brand is at the hospital with them in Baton Rouge. They were on the freeway and the back tire blew out sending them into the median. Brad is bruised up and Lona hurt her shoulder and clavical. The bike is a total. They are about 5 hours from Marks and Brad hopes to take care of business then head north. Squidley said they are OK. He plans on leaving the totaled bike there and will call us when they get to Michigan. Sorry that is all the details we have right now.
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You don't HAVE to re-jet, it will run fine. Many Ventureriders do it that way (don't re-jet). But if you choose to re-jet, you can get some better performance.
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Yep, you're in the right place. If you measure the inside diameter of the hole where the air goes "in", you will find that it is smaller than where the air goes "out" into the rubber tube that connects to the airboxes. If you make the "in" hole bigger than the "out" hole, you will have less restriction (at high rpm's). Some guys removed enough material to make the hole a "D". My personal opinion...just making the "in" hole bigger than the "out " hole is going to make it less restrictive. By the way, the Yamaha parts list says that part is a "silencer". I think they made it that way to eliminate induction noise. I didn't notice any difference, but my mufflers get pretty loud when I crank the throttle, so I doubt that I would be able to hear the carbs sucking air.
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I think it's just the 1st gen's that have a metal sleeve inside the rubber boot. I never checked the 2nd gen, I guess Yamaha saving money. It depends on which mufflers you have. If you have stock mufflers, then, yes, just replace the pilot jets...stock is #15, replace with #17.5 for more low end torque and throttle response. If you have free flowing mufflers, like drilled out Road King, or Bub's, or Baron's...It's not necessary to re-jet, but if you do, you can get better power and torque. I tried shimming the needles after re-jetting, not much change except a little lower gas mileage. It depends...stock mufflers and jets, not good for power, but might get you more mpg (MIGHT). If you have free flowing mufflers and K&N airfilter and re-jetted main and pilot...if you don't modify the airbox you get more low end torque and a little less mpg. If you modify the airbox (make the enter hole bigger than the exit hole, use a dremel), you get more high rev HP, a little less low end torque than if you didn't, and gas mileage would be pretty close to what it was stock. Well, that's the way it was with my '01 RSV. I had 2 sets of airboxes, one stock for around town (fun), one opened up for long trips (for better mpg). They are not too expensive, and easy to change.
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As far as I know, there is no kit. I have re-built a few sets of Venture carbs, and I always order parts needed individually. As for the price, $250 to rebuild the carbs would be a fair price. But your post makes it sound like they want $250 + shipping for the parts? the price would depend on if you need to replace your carb diaphram/slide assemblies, they are about $50 to $70 apiece, depending where you order them from.
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He sure would have saved himself a bundle of money if he had just got a RSV, all that stuff is expen$ive. And no radio, CB, cruise control... It's my thinking that when Yamaha stops making the RSV, something similar to this will be the replacement. This V-Twin was designed to meet future EPA emissions standards. For all the guys who wish for a RSV with 1800cc and fuel injection...there is your dream machine.
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Here ya go...how to plug the AIS in the tech library: http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=485
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What's a "GT Vert"? Anyhow...you would have to wait until maybe April or May to get it sold. Nobody buys a bike in the winter, unless the price is a "give-away". Tartan Terror tried to sell his much customized Honda cruiser type bike, about a month ago, and he didn't get even half of what he wanted...didn't come close to his reserve so I think he still has it. Even though he has a bad back and can't ride it anymore. Kelly Blue Book shows a "retail price" (if sold by a dealer in excellent condition) $11,325. I doubt if you could get even close to $20,000 even next spring. $20,000 is "new Harley" territory. I know what a BEAUTY you have, and how much you have into it. And you've pretty much run out of stuff you can add to it. And you enjoy the customizing. If you really want to sell it, you have to realize that a lot of the money you spent on it was for your own enjoyment, you won't get it back. I'd say keep it for a few more years, at least until you get that new house you want.
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The tips like that look really good. But I think you better be careful when you walk around the rear of the bike. Looks like they could take a nice chunk from your shins...owww
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Putting the caps back on would be darn near impossible, without removing the carbs. I never put the caps back on, and I have done this with several bikes (for the other Ventureriders in the area). But why put them back on? Adjusting the carbs won't void your warranty...(or I guess I should say "shouldn't). The dealers know that adjusting the pilot screws help eliminate the popping, and help "driveability" (low end torque and throttle response). I have read that some dealers will refuse to do it, because it changes the emissions (it's probably actually illegal for a liscenced mechanic to alter the emission controls). The caps are actually there to make the pilot screws "tamper proof". I have also read that some dealers will do it to keep a customer happy. And some dealers might give you a hard time if the caps are off when you bring it in for service. I guess it depends on your dealer, and if you have the dealer do the work on your bike. I do all my own work, but I had to take it in to get an "I" basket since that's the only way to get one. And had some other warranty work done (rear drive). The 3 dealers I ever let near my bike never said a word about my "mods". But if you worry about things like that (voiding the warranty) for your peace of mind leave the bike stock. It runs OK stock...it just runs better with a little adjustment.
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That should be in the 1st gen tech library.
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I don't want to be nit-picky, but I disagree with this part of your post. "It is only natural"...no it isn't. It isn't natural to me, or my son, or anyone who has learned to use their motorcycle brakes properly. EVERY braking situation, whether just gently slowing down, or full out emergency, I use both brakes. I practice emergency stops. Every stop, I ease on the rear brake a split second before squeezing the front brake. You can develope a rythym to it. I have learned to modulate both brakes, got a feel for them thru practice, if I feel a wheel start to lock-up, I can ease off just enough to avoid the skid. The idea of avoiding using the front brake because someone told you something ridiculous decades ago...just ridiculous. There are 2 big disc brakes on the front of your bike for a reason. Weight transfer in a braking situation shifts most of the weight of the bike to the front wheel. On a bike like the RSV, 80% to 90% of the braking power is on the front wheel...no matter what speed. Weight transfer on the front wheel equals more traction, and less traction on the rear wheel. To be a truly safe rider, you must learn to use the brakes the way they were designed to be used. But you are right, take MSF riders course, and practice a lot, until it is instictive to brake properly when that time comes that you don't have time to think about it, you just react. your reaction will be the right one, if you use your brakes properly all the time. OK, I just re-read this post, and it sounds kind of "preachy". Sorry about that...But I think it is important to get this point across. This is the braking technique that you will learn in any MSF course, or any racing school. I have talked to other Ventureriders about this privately. More than a few of us have agreed that it is about time to have a "brake school"...or at least a discussion on proper braking techique, for all Ventureriders. Too many "single vehicle" accidents happen because of slamming on the rear brake. It's not the bike's fault, it is the riders fault. In the aviation industry it is referred to as "pilot error", when a crash is investigated and it is found that the cause of the crash was nothing other than the pilot doing the wrong thing at a critical time. I have seen this happen more than enough times to suit me, being first on the scene, helping someone who locked up the rear wheel, and went down. And then says "I had to lay it down...(for whatever reason)". No, you didn't have to lay it down, you screwed up. I really think it comes down this...if you can't use your motorcycle brakes properly, you are a danger to yourself and to other on the road...maybe it's time to find another pastime, sell the bike. Or at least get a bike with ABS and let modern electronics keep you from screwing up and hurting yourself.
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Another thing you can do to help eliminate some of the popping is to turn out the carb pilot screw 1/4 turn each. The pilot screw adjusts the idle mixture (and just off idle mixture). Backing them out 1/4 turn (counter-clockwise) will slightly richen the mixture (set very lean from the factory to meet EPA emmissions). The pilot screws are hidden under brass caps that come off very easily. Just put a flat blade screwdriver next to the brass cap and twist it to put a little sideways pressure on it. It is about the size of a .22 casing, but tapered a little, with a tiny hole right in the middle. You don't have to remove the carbs or the gas tank. but you need a flashlight to see in under there between the carbs. Here's a picture with the carbs off and turned upside down, to help you see what you're looking for. Remember, this picture is upside down from what it will look like without removing the carbs. After you remove the brass caps, the pilot screw is brass, and has a cross slot (uses a flat blade screwdriver, but with 2 slots)
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Right, Kit. Not necessary, but it can increase power and response IF that's what you want. Here is a link to the tech library with step-by-step pictures included. You can swap some main jets around, so you only need to get 2 new main jets...two 125. part numbers...125 main jet: 3G2-14231-25-00 (2 needed) Pilot jet #17.5: 4KM-14142-17-00 (4 needed) http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=502
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About re-jetting...I have read for many years that RSV owners putting free flowing mufflers on don't have to re-jet. My experience with my '01 RSV...I put on Harley Road King mufflers, drilled out both baffles so it was straight thru. I didn't re-jet at first, and it ran OK. Gas mileage went up a bit, a couple mpg's. But it did seem to loose a little high rev power. I had read (on a couple of forums) the guys who re-jetted said they got some suprising power increases when re-jetting with free-flowing mufflers. So I tried it, I'm no stranger to carbs. Went up one size on each main jet, and up one size on each pilot jet. And they were right, there is a very nice power increase, from right off idle all the way up. Throttle response and low end torque made around town riding a lot easier. And mpg's went from averaging about 42mpg completely stock to about 40 mpg after re-jetting (also a K&N air filter). So here's my point...re-jetting isn't necessary, the RSV runs fine without it. But if you DO re-jet, you will find you can have a lot of fun with the throttle! For me, loosing a couple mpg's was worth it.
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There are 2 different seals in there. The one for the clutch shaft is more like a rubber grommet. The one for the shifter shaft is a regular oil seal, with a hard outer rim. I had to get the shaft out of the way in order to pry the old seal out (with a big flat blade screwdriver). Once I got the old seal out, I had to drive the new seal in...I think I used a socket of the right diameter to tap it in, but that was a long time ago. On mine, it was the shifter shaft seal that was leaking. I think the "O" ring on the clutch shaft keeps the oil from coming out.
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If it's the shifter shaft seal, replaced mine ('83) without removing the oil pan. I removed the shifter shaft after pulling the clutch basket (the shaft has to come out the right side), then used a screwdriver to pop out the old seal. That seal is right above the collector, so you have to remove the collector, too.
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No VMAX Rear for an '85?
Denden replied to GigaWhiskey's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I put a V-Max rear drive on my '83. You need the V-Max driveshaft, to go with it. And there is a difference in the plastic dust shield that is attached to the wheel. In order to make the wheel dust shield match the plastic dust shield that is on V-Max rear drive, you will have to order the plastic dust shield that goes on the '86-'93 wheel. It fits on the '83-85 wheel and that allows the wheel to match up with the dust shield on the V-max rear drive. Or you could just take the plastic dust shield off the rear wheel and that would work, but it looks better with the right dust shield on the wheel. Other than the driveshaft and the dust shield, it fits fine. -
About re-syncing...when I changed from stock mufflers to drilled out Harley mufflers, I had to re-sync. I don't know why, but changing the mufflers seems to change the sync. If I remember, it change the side-to-side sync. At least I would recommend checking it if you have the sync tool.