Denden

yeah, cimmer is right...replacing the plug caps with the NGK 5k ohm caps and new plug wires really helps. NGK plug caps are (style no.)XD05F Stock No.8072. The plug caps have a prong inside like a sheet metal screw, they just screw into the end of the plug wire. Just unscrew the old caps and screw in the new ones.

Yeah, Randy, I'm listening. It sounds like a problem with the pilot screws, that's what the carbs are running on at that speed. But it might have something to do with the pressure sensor (vacuum advance). A lot of them get a vacuum leak in them, and with an '83, that would throw off the spark advance. I seem to remember you changed something...the TCI or the pressure sensor? If you have one of the Mite-Vac brake bleeders, you can use it to check your pressure sensor to see if it holds vacuum. You can also use it to check your YICS chambers to make sure they hold vacuum. My '83 seems to run best with the pilot screws set at 2 turns out. With the bike running, you could try turning each pilot screw IN until you hear the motor start to slow down or miss. Then back it out until you hear it pick up again. Then add 1/4 turn. But even if you do this carefully, you'll probably end up about 2 turns out, or pretty close. Vicki and I are thinking of taking a little trip down your way, maybe this week. Knoxville, Smokey Mountains, Blue Ridge Parkway. Not sure yet. I'll let you know, maybe we can get together for dinner or something. Never been to Johnson City. I hear you have some good roads around there?

I would try synthetic 20w50, maybe Mobil 1 Motorcyle oil, or Amsoil motorcyle oil. Also, make sure the carbs are sync'ed very well. As a last resort, remove the air filter element (just for the test) but leave the airbox cover on...in other words, stock airbox with no filter in it. Then put the filter element back in after the test. The synthetic oil 20w50 should be what you use in Phoenix in the summer anyhow. Don't they have a limit on how much you spend for emmissions repairs, then they give you a waiver. (They used to when I lived in Tucson many years ago).

In the instructions that I got with my Motion-Pro mercury sticks many years ago, it said that if the motor sucked in the mercury, the best thing to do is go for about a 20 mile ride right away. But the "why" this instruction brings up...I dunno.

No, it won't hurt at all. A mixture on the rich side won't do any damage. Well, except use up more gas, and stink up the air. If you're getting 34 mpg, it's not extreme. As a matter of fact, you could probably skip the re-jetting and go on as you are, if you don't mind the gas mileage and slightly poor performance. I was wondering...how much time do you spend at 5000ft, and how often do you ride at lower altitudes? For instance, my bike is tuned for near sea level. But a coule times of year I head for the mountains. I don't get as good mileage up there, and I feel the power drop. How does it go in your position. If you get your bike tuned for 5000 ft, and go on a trip to the plains, your bike will run slightly lean. Would an extended trip at sea level be lean enough to cause engine problems? I don't know, I'm not experienced with how much of a jetting change is involved. Anyone have any input on this? I'm just curious.

Gibvel...there is another article on the Venturers.org tech library under "performance". It's about how to open up the hole in the airbox so the engine breathes better. it will allow more air in, and might work to lean out your engine a little. It might be worth a try if you don't want to get it re-jetted for $400. Copied from Venturers.org tech library: ------------------------- Air Inlet Hole At the front of the air filter housing, where the air enters, is a 1-1/2" hole behind the D shaped cover. The engine needs air, so I got a Dremmel tool and cut out the opening to match the D shaped cover leaving a small lip for support. It makes a big difference. The small hole from the factory is there to keep the noise level down. I heard no increase in noise, just more power. I did not rejet the carbs or install different mufflers. Yamaha spent millions of dollars in time and R&D to make it run the way it is. This just makes it a little better. -----------------------------

Hey Jim, all the Royal Star Ventures and Royal Star Tour Deluxe 2005 and up use the same carbs. The idle mixture adjustment screws are hidden under a brass cap, about the size of an empty .22 shell. Described in the article I copied from the Venturers (above).

Yeah, that's a good article. It's what Spud was talking about. But the article is just a "ballpark" adjustment that will work in most cases. I think Spud meant going into it a little more. But this article will work in most cases. BUT, not in your case. Changing alltitudes like you did usualy means re-jetting, and re-adjusting the pilot screws more exactly. The pilot screw just adjust mixture at idle, and at very small throttle opening. Re-jetting adjusts the mixture for the entire throttle range. Your gas mileage will end up better, and probably slightly more power and all around better running. I'm sure you noticed the soot build-up on the outlet of your mufflers. There is an article in the Ventureriders Tech library on how to re-jet with pictures.: http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=502 But an altitude change re-jet will reqire different jets than are in the article. If you are mechanically inclined, re-jetting isn't really all that hard (if you have the article and pictures to help). Ask on the forum if there are others in your area, what size jets they are using. Your dealers $400 is only a little high but in the ballpark for the time it would take. You could do it yourself in a day, or at least in a weekend. but the question would be what size jets to use. ------------------- (from the Venturers.org tech library) (For second gen Ventures and 2005 and up RSTD) Adjusting the Pilot Circuit Contributed by Dan Abbott The backfire is caused by too lean a setting of the pilot circuit. This causes hotter exhaust gas temps. which ignite any unburned mixture in the exhaust pipe. On a cold day, these temps would be lowered by the ambient temp enough to prevent backfiring. This is no mystery, it just confirms the too lean pilot circuit. So, how to fix your backfire problems in the 99 venture? 1 - Why The Backfire is caused when coming off or going on the pilot circuit of the Mikuni 32bds carbs. In other words, coming of idle or decelerating with the throttle closed. The pilot circuit mixture is preset to a too lean position at the factory. Too lean means that the fuel air ratio is more air than fuel, resulting in high combustion and exhaust gas temperatures. When the super heated exhaust hits any unburned fuel mixture which is in the exhaust pipe/muffler, it ignites it and your bike says Pop POW Bang etc. 2 - How to fix it a. Fire your mechanic and learn to fix it yourself. b. Get a service manual and 4 tube mercury manometer for syncing carbs available in any city or by mail order from any one who sells motorcycle tools (try Vance and Hines or motorcycle accessory warehouse.) c. Read and understand the simple procedure for synchronizing the carbs. This can be done without removing the tank seat or anything except the two rubber caps covering the intake manifold vacuum access tubes on cylinders 2 and four and the two vacuum hoses on cylinders 1 and three. d. Synchronize the carbs. You should do this annually. Note: YOU CAN FIX THE BACKFIRE WITHOUT SYNCHRONIZING THE CARBS WHILE WAITING FOR YOUR SERVICE MANUAL BY DOING THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE FIRST. BUT DO THE SYNCHONIZATION AT THE FIRST CONVIENIENT TIME. Now for the good stuff, which is not in the service manual, but which every mechanic who is worth a rat's behind should know. e. Here is how you change the mixture in the pilot circuit quick and dirty. The pilot mixture screws are hidden behind removable brass caps which look like an upside down paper cup with a 0.1mm hole in the bottom of the cup. These are about the size of a pencil eraser. These are located on the insides of each carb (toward the center of the bike). You can see and access the ones on the right side carburetors #3 and #4 by looking through from the left side of the bike, and access the left carbs #1 and #2 by looking through from the right side of the bike. Using a long slotted screw driver, pry off the brass covers (they come off very easily). Throw the covers away, you won't be replacing them. You now will be able to see the pilot screws with a cross pattern on each head. Turn each pilot screw counter clockwise exactly 1/4 turn out (90 degrees) Note the original position of the screw and be sure you turn it only 1/4 turn. This will fix your problem. The complex way to adjust the pilot screw is to use an exhaust analyzer probe on each cylinder and adjust for 2 to 2.5 % CO and 600 to 800 PPM hydrocarbons. But since the factory gets it close, but too lean, the 1/4 turn method will work fine for you.

Most dealers won't actually make the adjustments that Spud mentioned, because it would change the emissions...an EPA no-no. They will probably sync the carbs and tell you they did the adjustment you asked for. But if you follow Gibvel's suggestions, you will probably get rid of the popping, and not have any problems. Many, many Ventureriders have done this (the way Gibvel suggests) and I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the valves. Spud is right that the engine is lean to start with, and the changes you made make it slightly leaner, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. He is right that the carbs SHOULD be re-adjusted, but most of the guys here don't do that.

The best thing I've found is riding boots with Gore-Tex lining. Gore-Tex keeps water out, but still breathes so it lets your foot moisture evaporate out thru the leather. There are quite a few brands on the market now, at sorta reasonable prices...between $100 - $150. I've had mine for about 3 seasons now. They are great. Waterproof in the rain, but they let moisture out, so your feet stay dry whether it's hot, and when it's raining. Mine are sort of like this, only not this brand. I paid about $200 for them 2 or 3 years ago, well worth the money. But I've seen other brands lately on sale for less. http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=402&productId=p3406040&leafCatId=40201&mmyId=

If the coil primary resistance isn't correct, you run the risk of frying your TCI. Primary side resistance should be 2.7 ohms +/- 10%. Secondary side resistance for stock is 13.2 k ohm +/- 20%. But I'm not real sure the secondary resistance would have any affect on the TCI. But make sure the primary side is in the range.

Sounds like Squidley has ya covered. But what I did was go to Sears and bought the type of holesaw that uses a 1/4 inch bit for the pilot, and the holesaw attaches to the pilot with a set-screw. Sears also has 1/4 inch bits that are extra long...get the one that is 14 inches long. Then you just put the holesaw on the 14 inch long bit and tighten the set screw. 14 inches just barely makes it to the end of the inlet perforated tube, but it's enough to remove the thin metal plate that blocks the end of the tube.

Just one thing...you might want to re-check your carb sync after you drill them out. Mine needed re-adjustment. The RK mufflers changed the 1-2 sync to the 3-4 sync for some reason.

NOTE...this is about the Road King mufflers, and more specifically, the Road King mufflers that don't have the metal honeycomb catalytic converter in the left side muffler. Tom E...this thread started about drilling out the stock Yamaha RSV mufflers. Double D asked a question about how to get more sound out of Harley Road King mufflers. OK, I hope we are on the same page now? If you look in the front end of the RK mufflers, the end you attach to the header pipe, the end the exhaust goes into first. There is an open chamber, and then about 6 inches into it, there is a doughnut shaped plate that holds the front of a perforated tube. If you look into the perforated tube, you will see that the end of the tube is blocked at end, forcing all the exhuast gases to go thru the perforations. What I was telling Double D...the inside diameter of the perforated tube is 1 1/8 inch. If you put a 1 1/8 inch holesaw onto a 14 inch long 1/4 inch drill bit, you can reach the end of the perforated tube and remove the silver dollar sized plate that is blocking the end of the tube. This will give you a slightly louder, slightly deeper rumble. I think that's what Double D was trying to do. I did this without telling my wife, and she didn't notice the slight increase in noise, but it has a nice mellow burble. Then a couple weeks later, I went one step farther. Looking in the end of the muffler that the exhuast gases come out, there is another perforated tube ablout 6 inches long. It is capped off at the end, too. Just like the one at the entrance. I drilled this one out, too. Used the 1 1/8 inch holesaw. With both the front and the rear plate removed, you can see all the way thru the muffler. It isn't really LOUD like this, just a nice low rumble...until you crack the throttle. THEN you start to hear it bark. Not obnoxious loud, but a nice sound. You can control how loud with the throttle. But even at the loudest, it isn't as loud as most Harley guys seem to like it. If you just drill out just the front plate and leave the rear plate in, you don't get the full throttle bark, just a nice mellow deep sounding muffler. The exhaust gases are still forced to go thru the perforations at the outlet of the muffler. A little louder and a little deeper than a stock Road King muffler.

drilling a couple half inch holes, you probably not even notice the difference. A lot of the guys have drilled 4 half inch holes in the doughnut shaped plate that holds the perforated tube. It makes it just slightly louder, but a lot who have done this have ended up with a "chuffy" sound that they didn't like. For slightly more rumble, slightly more of a deep sound, very little change in volume... Just drill out the front baffle with a 1 1/8 inch hole saw. That's what I did first, and ran it that way for about a month. You won't get the big increase in sound that you get if you drill out both baffles. Just a nice, low pitched rumble that is by no means loud. A nice mellow burble at cruise. My wife didn't even notice the difference between stock RK's, and when I drilled out just the front baffle. After a month, I took them off and drilled out the rear baffle too. Then, with both baffles drilled out, I was really surprised the first time I nailed the throttle. At normal throttle and cruising, it wasn't any different. But when you hit the throttle hard, it really starts to bark. But if you remove just one baffle, it doesn't do that.

1990 might JUST be what's on their website. I'm pretty sure if you give them a call, they can come up with just about any stock color.

Very cool idea:thumbsup2:

The charging system is 30 amp max at 5000 rpm. In 5th gear at 60 mph, the engine will be revving a little under 3000 rpm...so at that speed, a little less than 30 amps, about 27 amps.

I carry the "Pocket tire plugger w/CO2" with me all the time. Same company. It's on their website. ( http://www.stopngo.com/plugger.asp) (scroll down the homepage ). I bought it at the last Honda Hoot. The vendor demonstrated how it worked, and that sold me. Similar to what George's pictures ( thanks for that, George), but instead of the gun looking thing to insert the plug, it uses a much smaller tool, that uses an allen head screw to force the plug into the tire. The nice thing about it is the very small size of the pouch that everything fits into. 5 in. x 7 in.x 1 in. Small enough to carry in the saddlebag without taking up a lot of room, and includes CO2 cartridges to inflate the tire after plugging. It's a nice kit. I recommend it.

Here's another good piece of advice from a long time Venture owner/mechanic...for getting the most out of your Venture (from another topic in case you missed it) http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=43678#post43678

Right, right. My '83 is a little different than most, but I seem to get the best MPG's when I'm riding 2-up with my wife, on the 2 lane country backroads. Why? Because she doesn't like me to twist the grip. Best I ever got was 51 mpg, ran thru a whole tank without going over 60mph and not much stopping. Worst mileage I get is one-up when I'm riding beside my son (more like trying to keep up with my son). Mostly WOT and redline. Fun, but not good for MPG's.

Once you get it cleaned out enough that feels like it's running right, you should sync the carbs again. They were synced when the pilot jets were clogged, so now that Seafoam is working it's magic, it will change the vacuum readings, and needs to be synced again.

I've read the whole 4 pages of this...it sure sounds to me that the carbs aren't synced. You said you drilled the mixture screw plugs and synced them.(???) You really need to get a carb sync tool, either the Motion Pro mercury sticks ot the Carbtune. This V4 really needs to be synced to run smooth. I would never trust a dealer to get it right. You say that it feels like one cylinder thumping harder than the rest...that sure sounds like it is out of sync. It will also affect your gas mileage. Close isn't good, that's what a dealer will do, just get it close. It's got to be right on.

I've got the Bestem trunk rack bag (bought off eBay) that is an exact replica of the Yamaha bag, that looks like this: http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/products/modelscitemdetail/5/4/83/406/2007/1/210/0/0/detail.aspx --------- It attaches with velcro flaps on each side, and 2 velcro straps on the rear of the bag. I've always used it with just the velcro holding it on, it has never budged. There isn't much, if any, wind back there. In fact, I think there is a little swirl that actually blows forward. Anyhow, just Vecro straps for many thousands of miles, and it has never come loose, always just as tight as when I put it on. And I load it up.

Who was your lecture given to? What level of students? It seems to be basically a review of the present operation of hybrid vehicles as they are in use today. And you didn't connect the first part of the lecture...use of a turbocharger to drive an alternator, to the second part of the lecture...hybrid vehicle drivetrains. Would the turbocharger driven alternator be added to the hybrid powertrain to re-capture the internal combustion engine's lost heat as electricity to power the electric motor(s), and help re-charge the elctrical storage unit? Thereby increasing the efficiency of the overall power train? Of course, that is the inference. But you should connect the 2 ideas. By the way, I liked the last frame, where you borrow one of my favorite quotes from Gen. Patton. Powerpoint presentations are THAT bad? --------------- To add overall efficiency, wouldn't it be more efficient to replace the (supposedly) gasoline powerplant with a deisel? I believe that as an engine that runs at a constant rpm, or to run over a limited amount of rpm, the deisel is more efficient than a gasoline powered engine? But maybe that is beyond the intended scope of your presentation...back to my first question, who is your audience?