Jump to content

Denden

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    160

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Denden

  1. Denden
    thom440 is on the right track. Also... Read post #5 (with picture) in this posting... http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12413 -------- But probably the best thing to do if thiese 2 things don't work, is to remove the TCI, open it up and let it dry out, either in the sun or in an oven (at low temp) 120* for 1/2 hour. Some guys have re-located the TCI to the top of the airbox, it keeps it dry there. There is a problem with where it is located...heat and then cools can cause condensation.
  2. Denden
    I would take a look at the rear wheel bearing, the left one is a special caged roller bearing. Most likely suspect. You have to remove the rear wheel, and pull the splined hub with the fingers that go into the wheel rubber snubbers.
  3. Denden
    That's a great write-up, Cowpuc. This should definetly be in the tech library. I know Don is out in Colorado right now. Is anyone filling in for him?
  4. Denden
    You've covered a lot already. It sounds to me that it is time to pull the master cylinder out and give it a good cleaning. Probably that tiny return hole is plugged. It would be a good idea to put in a re-build kit while you're at it.
  5. Denden
    :rotf::rotf:
  6. Denden
    It could be what Yammer Dan said. there's another possibility...if the brake pedal is adjusted too high, it won't allow the master cylinder piston to return all the way, and that will block the tiny return hole in the master cylinder. There are 2 adjustments for the brake pedal...one is at the rear of the pedal itself, that adjusts the hieght of the pedal. There is another adjustment for the pedal free play. If you follow the pedal linkage where it pivots thru the frame, there is a bolt that is at an angle, just inside the frame. It will adjust the free play, so the piston can return all the way. I always adjust it by taking the black plastic side cover off, and adjust the bolt while looking at the master cylinder, where the linkage pushes the master cyl. piston upward. You want to make sure that the pedal moves slightly before it starts pushing the piston up.
  7. Denden
    Why? How long did you say your last rear tire lasted?
  8. Denden
    Yes, a little "stouter", but more important to racers, more controlable by the rider. An experienced drag racer wants to be able to control the amount of clutch slip himsself for a good hard launch. The anti-chatter feature of the clutch is so that inexperienced riders can take off smoothly, without the bike "bucking". An experienced rider doesn't need that feature, can feel what the clutch is doing. Also without the anti-chatter, the clutch will "grab" exactly when the racer wants it to hook up. AND it makes showing off by lifting the front wheel a lot easier...lift the front wheel hitting second gear, too. Or if you do it right, light up the rear tire and paint a black line on the pavement. (But I don't do that anymore:whistling:)
  9. Denden
    I had a Bunkhouse camper that I pulled behind my '98 'Wing. I went to LOT of GWRRA events looking at all the different campers other Wingers were camping in before I bought my Bunkhouse. IMHO, it's the best..king sized bed, lots of storage room, lot's of windows for ventilation, top quality canvas, never a leak, easy to set up and take down, room at the foot of the bed to stand up and change clothes, additional add on canvas room available. but if I was to do it again, I'd get one with trailer brakes, it's a little heavy when you want to stop. but it pulls real easy, but stopping is a worry. http://www.bf-specialties.com/
  10. Denden
    Superbrace fork brace, Progressive susp. fork springs, solid motor mounts, Progressive susp rear shock, re-torqued all frame bolts (yes with a torque wrench), cleaned and greased and carefully adjusted steering bearings, replaced all shock linkage bushings, original owner had frame replaced under warranty. There's more, I can't remember, been tweaking it since '96. Wobbles used to scare me, especially on the interstate in a sweeper, hit a bump, wobble, pucker (with Dunlop Elite II, by the way). Doesn't do that anymore. I tend to ride at full throttle a lot, so I kept at it until I was satisfied with it. handles like a sport tourer now, no sweat. The Avons were a BIG improvement over the Dunlops as far as handling, wet or dry. But especially the Avons are better in the rain.
  11. Denden
    The petcock assembly has a fine screen tube that goes up into the tank. Then there is a fuel filter on the left side just at the front of the tire just inside of where the passenger footpeg is, but you have to have the sidecover off to see it. It's hard to change unless you have the rear wheel off.
  12. Denden
    I have Avon Venoms on my '83. I run 38psi front and 42-44 psi rear. I've made a lot of improvements to my bike to get rid of wobbles, so I can't compare to others. But I've had it up to 130mph and completely stable (speed checked by my son on his YZF600R).
  13. Denden
    The '83 is different from the rest, the petcock only has "off" and "on". No reserve setting.
  14. Denden
    It's not a common cause of slippage. As long as the clutch plates and springs are in good condition, the stock clutch (with the anti-chatter) works just fine. It gets removed by gearheads like me who want to go a little faster, put more power to the ground, lift the front wheel...basically, it's sort of a hot-rod thing to remove it. Some people just like to tinker.
  15. Denden
    it's purpose is to make clutch engagement smoother. An anti-chatter clutch. It provides a small amount of slipping at the point of engagement. I removed mine long ago (on my '83), replaced those parts with full size clutch plates, did away with the wire that separated the thinner plates from the rest of the plates. I never noticed any difference.
  16. Denden
    I'd try some Seafoam inthe GAS, not in the oil. Pour in a whole can to a full tank of REGULAR gas. Do it a couple of times. And run her HARD. Some things that can cause a buildup of carbon are using Premium gas and riding real easy, always shifting at low RPM's, never going to full throttle, and idling a lot. This V4 likes to be run hard, and use the rpm's, go to redline at full throttle once in a while, when conditions allow. It keeps the combustion chamber, valves and rings clean.
  17. Denden
    Right all the way:thumbsup2:
  18. Denden
    Right, all the same...'05 and up RSTD and '99 and up RSVenture You need 2 #125 main jets...3G2-14231-25-00 4 #17.5 pilot jets...4KM-14142-17-00 I get my parts from: http://www.zanottimotor.com/ You can also order Mikuni main jets and pilot jets from http://www.factorypro.com/ FactoryPro also sells a "jet kit". But I wasn't happy with it...too much $$ for what you get, and their suggested jetting was way off. Howerver, you will get 4 adjustable needles. But I found the stock needles worked just fine. You will have to call them, no way to order online. I think Baron's slip on's or any other aftermarket slip-ons will probably work out about the same as far as jetting and performance...they are all straight-thru, same as Harley Road King with baffles drilled out. Road Kings are the least loud and (IMHO) the best sound, and, by far, less money. Road King "Classic" has the slash-cut end. Regular Road King has bullet end, looks like stock Venture. These v4's are set LEAN from the factory to meet emmission standards. BTW, if you have to get you tailpipe sniffed to get a liscence plate, you don't want to do this. Re-jetting up one size with straight thru mufflers, and K&N stock filters, stock airbox, will give you real good low-end and midrange TORQUE. Open up the airboxes and you loose a little low-end, but maybe gain a little at high revs...especially with a Dynatek ignition. Open up the airbox, and you might want to go up 2 sizes on the main jets, one size up on the pilot jets should be enough (and 2 turns out on the pilot screws)...just my guess. I can only tell you my set-up. High rev gains are hard to tell with butt-dyno, but you will feel the low-end torque and throttle response. Most of your riding is at low or midrange, unless you want to race. I tried shimming the stock needles, and tried FactoryPro adjustable needles. Didn't notice any gain, just lowered mpg's. FactoryPro needles set at their suggested setting fouled the plugs bad within 10 miles. Stock needles were best...I might have 1 shim, I don't remember, but not much difference.
  19. Denden
    I plugged my AIS by putting a marble in the rubber hose where the metal tube comes out of the head. But I did that before I re-jetted. It sounds like Carbon_One has found out blocking the AIS isn't necessary, after re-jetting. It doesn't affect performance one way or the other...only needs to be done to get rid of the backfires and popping if you have it.
  20. Denden
    I rejetted my '01 RSVenture. It's engine and carbs are all exactly the same as your RSTD. I run Harley Road King mufflers with the baffles drilled out. I rejetted one size up on all the main jets, keeping the staggered jetting that is stock. I also went one size up on the pilot jets. They are all #15 stock, I put in #17.5, all four. The re-jetting made a big difference in throttle response and low end torque. If I'm one-up, I can smoke the rear tire...2-up I can lift the front wheel. With the rejetting, my mpg's is 38-41 mpg. I tried opening up the airbox, too. But that cut down on some of the low end punch, but slightly increased the highway mileage, by a couple of mpg's. So for around town, I use my stock airboxes (more fun with the throttle). If I go on a long trip, I swap to the opened up airboxes, for better mpg's on the highway. ( I have 2 sets of airboxes) If you want to really tweak it, get the Dynatek ignition module...model number D3K7-5, it fits both the Venture and RSTD. Watch for them for sale on eBay. http://www.dynaonline.com/english/cruiser_dyna3000.htm The rev limiter is programable, along with the spark curve. I didn't put one in my RSVenture because I just didn't really need the extra revs...I don't race much anymore. The re-jetting was enough, more than enough.
  21. Denden
    Here's what is in the Yamaha Service Manual...
  22. Denden
    Just so ya know, the Venture V4 runs like crap with the airbox top off. I think the Yamaha engineers designed the airbox as part of the induction system. Very much different from other bikes. If you want to try a free-flowing airbox or individual K&N filters, you will have your hands full trying to get it jetted right to run at all. I'd suggest using a stock replacement K&N filter until you get other stuff sorted out. You might find that the Venture's reputation as the "hot rod of touring bikes" will satisfy your quest for speed...a good running '83, run it to redline thru the first three gears...will take your breath away...really.
  23. Denden
    The YICS system shoots a small jet of air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber at an angle. it is supposed to induce swirl in the combustion chamber. When the intake valve closes, it creates a small positive pressure, which goes up the tube into the plastic YICS chamber for that cylinder. On the next cylce, when the intake valve opens, that positive pressure shoots into the combustion chamber...swirling the mixture for more complete combustion. I've tried blocking it off...the motor seems to run just fine and smooth. But as I recall, I got very slightly less mpg's, and a little less punch in the higher revs. Not a big difference, but enough that I keep my YICS hooked up. If you want to try something, connect the hose from #2 to the nipple on the cyl. head for #1 (the hose isn't quite long enough to reach, you have to jury rig a slight extension). And do the same on the other side...connect the hose from #3 to #4 YICS cyl. head nipple ( I think this side fits with no extension). Also known as "the Jason Mod". It will idle kind of funny, but throttle response and low end torque will be, well, better. How much better depends on how well you bike is tuned.
  24. Denden
    The rear header heat shield (on my '83), broke at one of the mounting holes. I don't remember at what speed or RPM it rattled, but I remember having a heckuva time finding the rattle. My solution (the easy fix) was to run a big SS hose clamp around the heat shield and header tube. It has been held in place like that for many years and many miles...and no more rattles.
  25. Denden
    Many possibilities...my first thought would be cam timing chain slack. Maybe the tension ratchet is stuck or the chain guides are worn. But you have to locate the general area first. I like Yammer Dan's suggestion, but I think that would rattle all the time, upright or on the sidestand.
×
×
  • Create New...