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Neil86

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Everything posted by Neil86

  1. The issue is the 83-85 use a 2 piston caliper, while the 86-93 use the 4 piston caliper. 83-85 uses one model master cylinder, 86-93 another model. (This applies to both masters, front and rear). The main problem isn't the reservoir, its the volume the master cylinder displaces when you apply the brakes. If the earlier master can't displace enough fluid you don't get full braking pressure to the pads since its going to move 8 pistons now instead of 4 the older calipers housed.
  2. Actually the 83-85 Venture and the 86-93 Venture used different diaphragms and springs.
  3. Looks like the switch is still available online for around $30. Its good to know ballpark price before visiting dealer.
  4. Actually from what I recall there is a hole in the bottom side of the pivot...you have to push in to release a pin thats spring loaded, then pull out the switch.. Its been a few years...and bike isn't nearby to verify.
  5. I don't recall an installed TCI being wrapped.....I'd remove the wrap, let the unit dry out inside for a few days. I relocated my TCI to top of airbox to get it away from the moisture.
  6. The 83 Venture had a 15 Amp signal fuse...86 up uses 20 amp...I'm guessing the increase was for the antidive (the antidive relay runs from signal fuse power, triggered by brake switch) As far as a load issue.....typically brake application is brief (aside from being stuck in traffic on an incline).
  7. When you checked starter switch continuity...did you test at the switch or the connector? By testing at the connector, you check for a harness short as well as a short at the switch.
  8. The other alternative as far as protecting the CMS would be to have a separate power supply for the LED strip that uses a relay triggered off the stock light wiring. As far as the voltmeter dip...a significant amount of the draw isn't from the brake lights....the antidive solenoids on the front forks are energized when the brake switches close. The earlier 83-85 Venture antidives were hydraulically (Brake fluid) controlled.
  9. KYCaveman... The YICS uses a 4 chambered plastic reservoir that the hoses go to...the seams on the chambers can fail over time, so as the engine vibrates you get intermittent or continuous vacuum leaks. Yamaha dropped YICS with the 86 1300 update on the Venture. Kevin... Make sure you got the plug caps tight on the wires and tight on the plug terminal. A very common exhaust leak on a Venture is at the stubs at the rear cylinders....you'll see a ring clamp around the joint.....they use a copper bevelled gasket (looks like a washer).
  10. Mike....yes the Venture shims are smaller......the following bikes use the same 29 mm shims as the XS750 though...(if you want to use them on another bike) as per http://www.procycle-online.com/hotcams/valve_shims.htm VALVE SHIM KIT 29mm diameter - Includes two valve shims of each size 2.30, 2.40, 2.50 2.55, 2.60, 2.70, 2.80, 2.90, 3.00, 3.10. 20 shims in total. From K&L Fits Kawasaki and Yamaha 2 valve shim over bucket motors, BMW K-bikes. Z1 KZ900 KZ1000 KZ1100 KL600 KL650 KLX650 KZ1300 ZN1300 Yamaha XS400 XJ550 FJ600 FZ600 YX600 XJ650 XJ700 XJ750 XS750 XS850 XJ900 XJ1100 XS1100 KL13-7007
  11. Best guess would be the driveshaft splines have worn out, and are skipping.
  12. Don't know if this helps but remember that a 4 stroke engine is at TDC twice during the 4 cycles....once on compression, once at end of exhaust stroke. If the cams are facing each other...if you rotate crankshaft another 360 degrees so the mark shows on the crank again...the camshafts will have rotated only 180 degrees (camshafts turn 1/2 crank speed). This should put them facing away from each other.
  13. I find having a set of those small screwdriver kits for electronics from Radio Shack is handy.
  14. There is a small philips screw in the center of the knob that must be removed Jim, then the knob pulls off.
  15. Pretty sure the front left caliper is linked with the rear caliper, right front runs from handlebar lever.
  16. The crankcase vent hose on a 1st gen ties into the bottom of the airbox so the fumes can be drawn into intake and burnt. There is also a drain hose to drain accumulated oil back to the crankcase that tees into the vent hose going to the airbox.(85 and newer). A few things to check..... The crankcase vent tends to carry more oil into airbox if the oil level runs above the 1/2 way mark on the oil window (on main stand engine warm and off a few minutes). Remove air box lid and inspect for abnormal amounts of oil sitting in the airbox. Possibilities are plugged/kinked drain hose. See if you can see that the crankcase vent hose is properly connected to the bottom of the airbox. Its not too unusual to see some oil residue on the left carbs as the oil runs to that side when the bike is on the sidestand and the drain is in one corner of the airbox. Sometimes removing the boots from the airbox, thoroughly cleaning and resealing with RTV sealant helps.
  17. Another area to check is the gaskets on the rear cylinder exhaust stubs. Look at the rear cylinders...you see a short piece (~2") exiting the cylinder and then a flange with a clamp around it. Under the clamp and between the pipe joints lies a bevelled copper gasket. Its a fairly common failure, will produce backfiring easily due to the high exhaust temp so close to exhaust port. You can try snugging the clamp, but if its been leaking very long the gasket erodes and won't seal up.
  18. I have a spare set of used coils still mounted in their rack and they are all the same wires: red/white & orange. If you look up the coil part number there is only one part number for the coils...so they are all built the same wiring color wise....it simplifies spare parts inventory. I think you will find the wiring at the harness connectors the coils hook up to has the proper wiring colors as per the wiring diagram. Best bet is to change out one coil at a time to prevent a mixup wiring wise. If the plug wires are originals you will see they have number tags on them for #1,#2,#3,#4.
  19. Actually Brad...I'm pretty sure all the head bolts are under the camshafts 1st and 2nd gen. To retorque you have to remove small plastic caps from the cam bearing caps....and with the camshaft rotated to the right spot...there is a hole through the camshaft journal to allow getting a special allen wrench on the headbolt. So retorquing is do-able with the cams installed in the bike. Lifting head to change head gasket when the engine is in the bike is something else.
  20. It does 2 things........input to cruise control on those models that were equipped with it....also inputs to the turn signal self cancelling unit. Its been about 5 yrs since I replaced my speedometer, but I'm sure the speed sensor attaches just above where the cable enters the speedo housing. The cable drives the speedo and spins a magnet and the sensor has a reed switch that opens and closes once every revolution of the magnet. I can't see it actually affecting the needle movement unless the sensor has loosened off and dropped into the speedometer head.
  21. you're right about that.
  22. I would disagree Zach....most never use their front brakes to maximum potential.
  23. TSB's are usually only distributed to the dealers to assist in repairing problems that are historically common in a particuliar model. Recalls can include TSB's but require the manufacturer to notify the owners of the bike to bring unit in for inspection and repair of defects that could compromise safety, for no charge. While a recall would include a VIN number range, TSB's might not. This site has some of the TSBs and the recalls. http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/
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