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Neil86

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Everything posted by Neil86

  1. Neil86
    Giga.. Nope...just plug it. 86-93 did not use YICS and run fine. I think Yamaha decided the benefit was minimal to the YICS setup....and dropped it. Mike... If the YICS chambers aren't leaking you can still run with it....the problem is getting a good test on them.....probably a vacuum test with chamber hot and engine running to get the vibration best. They tend to fail on the seams as they age.
  2. Neil86
    The coolant selector valve is the drain valve under the radiator......theres a lock screw on the side...loosen it, rotate valve to "ON" for draining and filling, "OFF" for normal operation, tighten screw. You still drain via the plug under water pump.....this just ensures a complete drain/refill. Set valve, refill rad....then reset valve. Your boiling problem may be that the wires for thermo-unit (temp gauge sender) and the thermoswitch (fan temp. switch) aren't hooked up from working around them pulling/reinstalling head.. Remove right side grill from rad....the wire with round connector is for temp gauge...the connector for the fan has two wires pointing down.
  3. Neil86
    wishing Bob a speedy recovery.
  4. Neil86
    Sure sounds like the horn is somehow wired incorrectly. From the starter relay, the blue wire has to ground for the relay to close and crank the starter. It appears somehow that wire is grounding without going through the starter button. Unhook the connector at starter relay.....test blue wire for continuity to ground with key on.....if there is continuity, repeat test with horn wiring totally unhooked and wire ends insulated. If continuity is now lost......try pushing starter button......if continuity returns...it should start normally with connector reattached. If continuity was still there after unhooking horn wiring, check the starter circuit cutoff relay for a short. Just sounds like the horn or relay was tapped off the blue wire somewheres.
  5. Neil86
    You might want to have a look around the steering stops for the steering head....they tend to work like wire cutters on any loose wiring.
  6. Neil86
    Squeeze.... Just a hunch, looking for more air flow with K & N's, mods.
  7. Neil86
    If all was well until you changed filters and modified the air box, and putting original filters back in didn't fix it....the mod probably is affecting how the slides are responding. Just speaking from 1st gen experience, most who opened up the airbox ended up reversing the mod as the bike performs worse.
  8. Neil86
    Just install the fittings from a standard (non Royale) Venture.
  9. Neil86
    any mods made to airbox when you installed the K & N's? or is everything back to stone stock now?
  10. Neil86
    Was the tire mounted at a shop? Any chance a part fell out and is missing on the axle assembly?
  11. Neil86
    Yes make sure you are on the #1 cylinder wire. Since the pickups for signalling the TCI to fire are looking at the crank mounted rotor....about the only things that could throw it out are misaligned pickup coils or the TCI. Any recent work done on the stator vicinity? Was the TCI changed? If an 83 TCI box was used I can see a possible timing problem, since the vacuum source was different on the pressure sensor.
  12. Neil86
    Actually the bushing problem is pretty common...and the same bushing is used from 83 right thru the new 08's. You have to give the bushing a fingertip dab of grease periodically or else it will wear out fast.
  13. Neil86
    Condor... does the mystery engine have 1300 intake runners with just the synch ports....or has the YICS ports as well as the synchs?
  14. Neil86
    Kim... unfortunately I have an 86 standard...which has no cruise. So I can't help you there except to say...look at the wiring diagram...list the wire colors & number attached to the unit....and go looking. One other thing...I edited my above post....the black/white leaving clutch switch goes to the "cancel" switch then to the cruise. But do the brake/clutch ones first...see if you find anything.
  15. Neil86
    Part of my oil change routine is to turn the key on as the oil drains to see that the low oil alarm comes on the CMS display. The float can get hung up with sludge over the years.
  16. Neil86
    There are 2 sets of contacts on the switches of cruise equipped 1st gen Ventures (wiring for 86-93) On the clutch switch, one set is for the starter interlock to allow starting in gear with sidestand up, the other is for the cruise. The brake switches have one set for brake lights, another set for cruise. On the clutch switch, you want to look at the black/white wires. Essentially the power for the switches starts at the rear brake switch, flows to the front brake switch, then the clutch switch, then to "cancel" switch then to the cruise control. So.....this should help track your problem. Check for 12 V at both the 2 black/white wires at clutch switch with key on. If BOTH have 12 V, all 3 switches are closed and satisfied. If only ONE wire has 12 V, the clutch switch is open. If neither wire has 12 V you have a problem with one of the brake switches or wiring. Check and repair those and retest at clutch switch. Keep in mind.....these are normally closed so any wiring break/ bad connection opens the circuit.
  17. Neil86

    Gearhead...

    re: cruise cutting out randomly.

    One thing that gets overlooked is the bushing in the clutch lever....made of brass, if not greased periodically it wears out....causes free play in lever....wind pushes lever back enough to hit clutch switch. The bushing is about $4 part. Remove plastic guard covering clutch lever...you'll see the bushing sitting towards the top side of the lever. The pushrod to the master cylinder sits inside the bushing.

     

    Neil

    (Neil86)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Neil

  18. Neil86
    Have you noticed if the self cancelling feature on turn signals still works? Both cruise and it use the same speed sensor.
  19. Neil86
    but how did they designate an 83 Royale built in 83.....without repeating serial numbers.
  20. Neil86
    Yes the dash went to the stopwatch vs clock, CMS went to gear indication in 84....the choke lever changed from under switches to alongside the grip like yours. It sure looks like an 84. You mentioned the engine is a 1300 yet its number matches the bike's VIN....are you sure its a 1300 or has 1300 badging on the covers? I think you'll find the engine displacement cast into crankcase ...I remember it being somewhere.
  21. Neil86
    this is what you're looking for... http://www.stockers.com/NEWYS23.htm I'm sure other sites have the kits...haven't tried them myself.
  22. Neil86
    Condor....any pics of new bike?
  23. Neil86
    Condor... I know of a couple of guys who had a low mileage bike in one color, found a high mileage bike in a color they wanted and swapped plastic with the lower mileage bike, resold the higher mileage bike with their original plastic on it. That might explain yours...or of course accident scenario, changed colors while replacing panels. I'm surprised they would still be building 83 models that late in calendar year.
  24. Neil86
    As mentioned before....the voltmeter is reading the voltage off wiring in the signal fuse circuit. When you have a heavy draw on that fuse the voltage on that circuit will drop below the other circuits....I think if you were to test the actual battery voltage when this "low voltmeter" reading occurs, you'll find the battery voltage is much higher that the voltmeter reading. The proof you have a hi line draw on this circuit alone is that only that fuse is blowing. The reason I suggested horns earlier is they are out in the elements...getting rain, eng vibes etc....so a short there is likely. Even though you tested by turning key on.....you don't have the vibration and heat that the wiring harness is subjected to when the bike is running. George's suggestion of trunk light is a good one....my wiring diagram is for a standard without that light. Another method would be to wiggle harnesses with engine running....to see if you can simulate the short. Turn handlebars lock to lock, etc. So the fuse blows just riding along without doing any maneouvers...ie braking, turns, etc...correct? What year Venture do you have? Any recent repairs to bike....mods, etc?
  25. Neil86
    Brian... first verify it is the brake switch itself thats faulty..... -unhook the brown and green/yellow wires.....test with voltmeter with key on that you have 12 V on the brown wire.....if all is good.... -jumper between brown and green/yellow to see if brake light illuminates....if no light....you have a problem in the harness going to the CMS. The front and back switches are wired in parallel for a portion of the harness, so that is the section to inspect. If light is working jumpering switch....switch is the culprit. I don't have my bike handy to check...but I think the brake lever switch has a plunger like the clutch lever.....when you pull on lever, it uncovers the plunger, which extends out to complete the circuit. Make sure the plunger is free to move.....work it back and forth to free it up if it isn't. If you still can't get it to activate light, to remove it there should be a spring loaded pin on underside in a hole....you depress the pin with a small screwdriver and the switch should pull off.
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