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Neil86

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Everything posted by Neil86

  1. Neil86
    Another common issue...is if the YICS chambers are still attached....are they leaking...they tend to develop leaks on seams that appear and disappear as the chambers flex with engine vibration.
  2. Neil86
    Does the SET light come on when you try setting cruise? If not, try letting the cancel button pop out a few times......still no luck....see if theres any freeplay in the clutch lever.....push out on the lever with a finger and try a SET. If it works...inspect clutch lever pivot bushing for wear...(round brass bushing under the plastic guard of the lever) about $5 from Yamaha.
  3. Neil86
    I seem to recall seeing diagrams showing that the charcoal cannister (CA spec) bikes had a solenoid valve that permitted (I think) purging the cannister with fresh air to the carb. I'd be a little concerned since part of the system is capped...that your fuel tank has a path to vent properly.
  4. Neil86
    The 1st Gen is wired so the meter lights and headlight go out when you push in starter button.
  5. Neil86
    The gear train greasing Mike mentions would require removing windshield and the "hood" covering top of instrument panel. You'll see the white plastic gears that drive the odometer.
  6. Neil86
    Is the odometer actually still working...as Mike mentions the gears (which are plastic) pile up....my speedometer still read but odometer quit. I have greased the speedometer head by putting grease on fingertip and pushing into the cable drive end of speedometer....you are trying to lubricate between where the cable rotates and the outside where cable screws on.
  7. Neil86
    Could be speedometer cable....or the bearing in the speedo head where the cable rotates is dry.
  8. Neil86
    Kandaje.... black plugs are from running rich, causing carbon to deposit on the tip.... You say #2 cyl looked brand new...if you mean still white....that generally means running very lean causing high firing temps and overheating tip....(or is that cylinder actually firing??) A tan brown color is what a normal plug tip should look like after being in service for awhile. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp
  9. Neil86
    Guess I'm confused ...I understood the bike is running fine??...just instrumentation has failed, correct???......with the Signal fuse pulled Tach, turn signals, Voltmeter, Temp gauge, speed sensor for turn signal cancel and Cruise Set all fail. I can see the ignition fuse or TCI being issue if the bike is actually misfiring.....I don't see any mention of the cruise Power light faltering when the tach acts up (the main power for cruise does run through Ign fuse as mentioned). I'd fix up the signal fuse clips first....then see what still isn't working. Test the voltage on both sides of the Signal fuse to see if thats the issue.
  10. Neil86
    If popping on acceleration...check for vacuum leak....the caps that seal the ports you hook your manometer hoses to, or the hose going to the pressure sensor for timing advance might be cracked or left off...sucking in air, leaning out intake.
  11. Neil86
    I think looking at your "Signal" fuse and fuse clips will be a likely culprit. All the components mentioned take power through that fuse. Look for the fuse in the main fusebox with Brown wire on both sides of the fuse, in case the label has fallen out of the box. The speed sensor also fails when the Signal fuse fails, so cruise won't set. TCI failing will cause the tach to bounce....because it taps the #2 cyl firing cycles....but you would feel the cylinder kicking in....or check the exhaust pipe on your front left cylinder when you lose tach reading...if its still hot, its firing.
  12. Neil86
    Buddy... did you refuel at end of trip before parking bike....maybe bad fuel?
  13. Neil86
    Keep in mind when you do a repair on the charging system.....chances are the battery is discharged from the previous issue. Until the battery is fully recharged, re-testing the charging voltage will be erroneous as extra current will be flowing into the battery to try and recharge it.....which will give you a lower reading and more drop when you add load if there is no more available current being shunted to ground by the rect/reg at that stator rpm. Another test of the stator besides the resistance and short tests is AC voltage with plug unhooked. You test the 3 pairs of white to white......voltage will start around 20 V at idle and go up to approx 50-60 V (AC) at 3000 rpm.....again looking for consistency. This isolates the stator readings from being affected by anything going on in the rectifier. I believe its in the troubleshooting guide from Electrex. If the readings look good...I wouldn't replace the stator.
  14. Neil86
    How do you have the new horn disconnected? You mentioned installing a Wolo horn and a relay. The pink wires that went to your old horns are hot electrically anytime the key is on and the signal fuse is in, (they ground through the black to the horn button). Are they unhooked and insulated? If you are going to redo the splice on the stator wires....why not heat the bike up....retest AC voltage and when unhooked to redo splices, test the stator resistance with it hot. So for resistance you would test each white to each other, and each white to ground. The resistance will be higher than the book spec due to temperature but consistency between the windings is what you are looking for.....and hopefully not a short to ground.
  15. Neil86
    There is a plastic reed valve (looks like a duck bill) where the hose from compressor connects into the solenoid valves. The reed valve can crack and leak backwards from system....Yamaha had a service bulletin on this way back in 83. I think thats the compressor discharge valve you are asking about.
  16. Neil86
    What about the coasting enrichment diaphragms....are they new?
  17. Neil86
    Jason.... Its been about 4 years since I had the water pump out on my 86. I'm trying to remember about the driven plastic gear.....can it only be installed one way or can it be flipped over so wear pattern doesn't match and may cause some noise.
  18. Neil86
    Does the Engine off (kill) switch feel normal when you rock it off and on....snaps into place....no looseness? The cruise control power flows through the kill switch. Does this problem occur with just cruise powered up...or powered up and set? You may have an issue with abnormal current flow in the cruise circuit that is causing the kill switch to heat up...the expansion causing it to pop to off. Dirty contacts in the kill switch might be an issue....but it should drop voltage exiting switch and since that also feeds ignition system, I'd think the bike would run poorly. You might want to verify you have the correct amp fuse in the ignition....in case someone has bumped up the fuse to "band aid" a previous problem and you are overdrawing on this cicrcuit.
  19. Neil86
    Jason.... Did you have mod off while setting mixture screws?
  20. Neil86
    Monty.... are you sure that both headlight beams are okay and the Reserve Lighting Unit isn't kicking in when you switch to the failed filament? Is the "headlight" (the white light) on dash dimly lit to indicate its functional? The RLU sends power to the functioning filament to prevent losing your headlight when you switch to a failed filament....but normally the Headlight light will be bright...if its working, when you switch to the failed beam.
  21. Neil86
    Ross.... pretty common for the round brass bushing to wear out, look on the parts fiche for #2 master cylinder (from mrcycles.com) the bushing...item #4 BUSH 3GM-26455-00-00 $6.20 the pushrod that sits in the bushing...item #3 ROD,PUSH 3GM-26464-00-00 $6.38
  22. Neil86
    Venture rear ends since 86 have used the rear end oil to lubricate the rear driveshaft spline....thats why theres an oil seal on the shaft. If you are greasing that spline, you'll block the oil holes as its a gravity feed. Ventures from 83-85 relied on greasing of the rear shaft splines to prevent wearing out.
  23. Neil86
    Any provision to move the whole trunk back on the trike kit?
  24. Neil86
    The signal flasher doesn't have a left and right side....power goes thru it then to the signal switch. Could have some buildup on the switch contacts allowing some current to flow to the bulbs but not enough to cause the relay to cycle. WHen you say "Stuck on" you mean doesn't flash..when you select left....or its staying lit all the time? Does the switch feel normal....springs back to the center position easily? Is the hazard flasher switch totally off.....and do the lights blink normally when you have the hazards on?
  25. Neil86
    I think you will get minimal volume from the speakers when you are on Headphone setting to protect the amp if the helmet cords are unplugged. Cycle thru the control settings to see if its on HP or SP....you want to be on SP.
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