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Neil86

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  1. Neil86
    The 83-85 Venture had a rear end with a level fill hole.....those came with a plastic dipstick in the toolkit (had a new 83)....and because the rear end was common to the XS-11, the dipstick was common and had two ends....one for the separate middle gear case on the XS-11 (the Venture uses engine oil) and one for the rear end. Here are the measurements from the XS11.com site http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=72 The 86-93 Venture has the rear end fill plug on an angle and should be filled on the mainstand so the oil is just ready to spill out with the fill plug removed. Rusty mentions greasing splines...the rear splines on an 86-93 Venture are lubed by gear oil from the rear end. The 83-85 required manual greasing of the rear driveshaft splines (the grease zerk wasn't effective).
  2. Neil86
    In order for the thermostat to work properly on a 1st gen you need the flow through the metal tube mentioned. Keep in mind the t stat is after the radiator on a 1st gen. The bypass (metal tube)flows directly from inlet (top) of rad to the t stat (below it) and then to the water pump, so the t stat is getting flow and can monitor and control the temperature. If its too hot...it opens allowing colder coolant from the rad to mix going to the water pump. In order to drain the radiator there is a drain valve which opens from the bottom of the rad to this bypass line so you can drain the rad when the t stat is closed. When the drain valve is ON it blocks the bypass from inlet(top) side of rad and opens to the bottom of the rad to allow draining. When the drain valve is in the OFF position it blocks the drain from rad and opens the bypass from top of rad. So....if you leave the drain in the ON position you get colder coolant (from the bottom of the rad) flowing under T stat which tends to keep it closed. If the drain is in the OFF position (as it should be) and the tube is plugged....the only flow through the T stat is the tiny bleed hole on the T stat itself, plus the water pump has virtually no supply. Both issues will cause overheating.
  3. Neil86
    Amen to that Ramblingman...
  4. Neil86
    The power for headlight and dash bulbs goes through the headlight fuse, then the headlight contacts in the starter switch before splitting up to feed the dash bulbs and the reserve lighting unit for the headlight supply. You should recheck voltage on the headlight fuse and verify that the starter switch is fully releasing to close the contacts to the headlight and dash bulbs. Try pulling the button further out. The CMS solder problems can affect the headlight, but shouldn't keep dash lights from working.
  5. Neil86
    Jim.. I believe you need continuity to keep the alarm off. The manual isn't too clear, but I would think they designed it so that any wire break etc would cause the alarm to activate rather than needing continuity to activate the alarm. Ensure level is good on both front and rear brake reservoirs, as both have a float switch. So if you unhook the CMS harness and you have have continuity on the white/black wire to ground the alarm should be off. No continuity...check each switch , and then the wiring to ground. If you have good continuity and reconnected the CMS continues to alarm.....then as Thom pointed out...probably a solder crack in the CMS unit.
  6. Neil86
    I use a shallow Wedco oil drain pan /container...has shallow funnel that stores on the side of the container...holds about 7 US quarts....can store the oil till disposal. Looks like this one [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Wedco-Quart-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000I2UVPE]Amazon.com: Wedco 7 Quart Oil Drain Pan: Automotive[/ame]
  7. Neil86
    As Denden points out the chirp can be caused by an out of round component........the problem lies in the fact there are two gears (actually 3 if you consider the balancer shaft) meshing...the clutch basket is the easy attempt at repair....if its the crankshaft gear its a r & r and a total case split.
  8. Neil86

    Mini Amplifier

    Neil86 replied to BradT's topic in Watering Hole

    Actually a 1st and 2nd gen stock stator only deliver about 30 amps output.
  9. Neil86
    Kit... Perhaps your mechanic friend didn't realize it....but the clutch basket not only contains the clutch discs but the smaller gear on the backside drives the oil pump. If you were running the engine with the basket totally removed...the oil pump wasn't operating.
  10. Neil86
    It should be Reserve Lighting Unit. It is standard equipment on a 1st gen....if one headlight filament fails...it switches power to the remaining filament and you get the headlight icon alarming on the CMS display and the Headlight Indicator (the white one) on the dash will be light up.
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