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VR Assistance

Found 13 results

  1. My 89 started ..oh about 2 weeks ago, where it seemed that when first started the clutch would engage "very early" upon the slow release of the clutch lever. But it seemed to return to normal after a shift or two. Yesterday, when I pulled in the clutch to shift into 1st after starting it for the first time, it almost seemed to move without releasing the clutch. Upon releasing the clutch, it immediately engaged, i mean it did not take anything at all to engage 1st gear. Again, after several shifts it seemed to be okay. Haven't seen any leakage of fluid and there appears to be enough fluid in the reservoir. So..??? any ideas ? ( and no... I'm not buying a slower 2nd Gen! )
  2. Had the bike out today, tried to engage cruise control.. and remembered that there was a quick trick to getting the cruise to stick to the desired speed, without waiting for the system to catch up (lagging).. but erhmm can't remember what it was.. double tap the set button? Double tap the Accel button? Regardless, the shake down cruise went well.. lots of mods and adjustments made to the bike this past winter and the bike performs well, almost like a different bike. But I couldn't get the cruise control to engage properly or stay on.. 3000 rpm at 60 mph in 5th.. with heavy winds.. wondering if that had anything to do with it.. Does anyone remember what that quick set trick was on cruise control? Cheers
  3. Went on a nice ride from Colorado Springs to Castle Rock and back with my wife today. It was still a little chilly in the morning but afternoon wasn't too bad (except through the higher country). But we didn't need any chaps or overly heavy garments, so I count that good. Two issues I did have. 1. First time using my JM headsets...they are the original pair I got from previous owner. They seem to work well (although had to modify helmet because they were so think they pressed against my ears). The only issues is when I turn the IC up loud enough to hear well, I pick up so much wind noise it's crazy. I guess it's wind noise because I don't hear it when stopped but when going highway speeds it sounds like white noise... 2. Something's wrong with my cruise control. I turn it on, hit the set button let go of gas and it will drop 5-10 mph before trying to engage. Then it will attempt to engage but as soon as it does, it drops out of cc and the Res light comes on...I can click on the Resume button and the Res light starts to blink, but once again, as soon as I feel the cc start to kick in, it drops back out of cruise and the Res light comes on solid again...not sure what's going on...I tried it when I first got the bike from PO 6 months ago but haven't really used it since then...
  4. Hey gang, I've got the plastic off from working on the carbs and thought I'd lube the cables and check my cruise control that doesn't want to engage. Electronics seem to work but the cruise won't engage. I've opened up the cable cover where the pulleys are and noticed quite a bit of slack. See attached. Is that normal? Also, another problem I introduced is the spring fell out. What is the proper orientation of the spring. Any pics available?
  5. I needed to grease the splines, so I also took the drive shaft out,,,, not a biggie,,, I done this before, even wrote on how to do it the easy way, without extra tools. Now it WON"T go in,,, it just won't go in,,, I mean it just won't engage. I can wiggle the u-joint, turn the U-joint, see the u-joint, get the shaft started into the u-joint, but it won't engage. Anybody have any ideas???????? 4 hours at this, and I'm a little frustrated.
  6. 08 rsv left rear saddlebag latch is hard to engage can this be adjusted? thanks again steve
  7. Hello everyone, Did the clutch upgrade(2nd gen). Installed new extra disk, removed wire, half disc, 2 rings. cross sanded the plates, soaked all the disk in fresh Rotella. re-installed with two notches on disc all aligned, installed pressure plate to marks, put new spring on, ring that holds bolts. Bike has 45k, but was barely slipping in 3rd gear with two up and pulling trailer. NOW watched the pressure plate move freely with clutch handle engage, disengage. put the cover back on, fill up oil. Took for a spin..............slips with barely any throttle. must have missed sumptn.!!!! Any good suggestions on what I missed .....hate to think I have to find another gasket. Leaving on the 3rd of June for a 3000mile trip. Clutch lever feels even weaker than before...also clutch doesn't engage until it is almost totally released. Jim
  8. Some of you have seen the thread on the upgraded starter enage clutch that was the brain child of Squeeze and assembled by Dano. If you have had problems with your engage slipping, chattering or banging this is the answer. I installed mine today and it works great. My bike has not been started since the second week of December and suffered through a lot of subzero temps sitting in the garage. The first crank was solid and no chattering or slipping. The second crank she was turning over like she has never done before. The third try I gave it half choke and it was instant on. Everytime I shut her down and hit the button it was instant on. No hesitation at all. This is my third engage since I bought the bike. And I do think it is going to be the last one the bike will ever need. This thing is a monster!! Pics tell the story. Thanks to Squeeze and Dano for sharing this project. Mike
  9. Here is a weird one. First of all I might mention my engage clutch was new this spring along with the 72 tooth gear and the battery is not suspect at all. This just started after the last oil change from 10/40 to 20/50 oil, that was the day before this problem started. The bike has always started great. Touch of a button. Hot or cold. Since the change to 20/50, which I have never used before, and when the temps drop down into the mid 40's or so the bike has been difficult to start in the mornings and after long cooling off time where it gets back to cold to the touch. What I am finding is the starter is spinng but the engine is not turning when it's cold. No compression so no spark. It seems the engage clutch is not taking hold. After say 5 minutes of on and off cranking it will catch and fires right up. After it warms up a bit I have no problems at all with it starting again. If I leave the bike parked overnight I go through the same thing in the morning when it's cool out. After the first cold start, it's fine again. What this tells me is the the cold oil might be thick enough to keep the pawls from engaging properly to grip the face of the 72 tooth ring gear. But with that in mind as the engine warms up the oil should be a bit thicker. However the oil would be more fluid as it heats up so that may be a null point. When the engine is warmed up or up to running temps it starts with a touch of the switch. Cold. not so good until the engage clutch has been spinning for a while. Then it hits and off we go. By the way.....the engage clutch is quiet. None of the knocking common with a failure. So, anybody else run into this? There ya go Condor. You wanted some new problems. I'm here for ya buddy. Mike
  10. Hi All, Just wondering if this is a common problem and/or a difficult one to troubleshoot. I push the on button, all lights come on then after a couple of secs they all go out but the power. This is normal so far but when I engage the set button while riding, nothing!! Any quick fixes? I do have a manual, just hoping it is simple. Thanks in advance, Kim
  11. I have the PCW racing clutch upgrade. When I installed it, I left the last flat spacer in, getting in to big of a hurry. I found this out because the clutch lever would not engage. I went back in and removed the spacer. After reinstalling my clutch lever still will not engage. How bad have I messed up here, and has anybody had this experience so that I might get some suggestions. I appreciate this site and the imfo I get.
  12. Just want to relate a few things about the clutch upgrade I just did on my 01 RSV. Instead of replacing the fiber disc's as I have in the past on several bikes I opted to add the extra (it's not really an extra one just a full size disc) remove a couple of washers at the rear of the clutch as well as the wire retainer and install a new and stronger spring. All the information is in the Tech section of this forum. The tension on the clutch lever is a bit more but manageable. Now when the clutch bites it bites a little more than I would like, I don't drag race. The thing that is bothering me the most right now is the engagement point has changed quite a bit, it use to start grabbing about 1/3 of the way out. Not it starts to engage at about the same spot but then releases and doesn't engage until the lever is out to about 2/3's of the travel. Maybe this is something I need to get use to? I'm really thinking about putting the 1/2 disc back in along with the washers and wire retainer but leave the heavy spring in there. I have bleed the brakes just to change the fluid, there was never any air in the system. So for the guys that are running this system, does this sound like the way yours is acting? Jerry
  13. First Generation Venture Starter Clutch Repair Thanks to GeorgeS for the GREAT write-up On my 89, I completed pulling the Rotor and Starter Engage Clutch Assembly today. --- Here Is what I found ---- ---- One of the three mounting bolts, was--- loose---- and backed out about 1/2 turn!!!!! It appeared to have not had any Loctite applied at the Factory. ---- The other two mounting bolts were Tight, they -- Obviously--- had Loctite applied at the Factory Installation. -----One of the small springs was bent, another had damage on the end, and the third appeared to be OK ----- One of the spring caps, had lots of wear on the open end, and tip. Other two, not bad. ----- The about 1/2 Inch thick material that makes up the Center of the " Starter Engage Unit " ( which appears to be Brass, its copper color, but much harder then copper) Has a Crack completely through it !! Another photo of Cracked engage Unit. Also the ElectriX After market Stator. ( For anybody who may be interested, note the larger diameter wire, than they used on the Stock Stator units ) Another comment, on pulling the Rotor, It did not move Until it finally came off. It Flew Off. After applying heat for about 30 seconds, on the 4th try, of heating and Tapping with hammer, it flew off, went about 2 feet. ( I used an Automobile harmonic balancer puller, you will need to buy 3, 8mm bolts, 3 1/2 inch long, fine thread ( 1.25 pitch ) ( High Strength Steel bolts ) for the rotor pulling job. Also a butane soldering torch will come in handy ( map gas, whatever you have for heat ) I did not find any Damage on the 72 tooth Gear, behind the Rotor. -----I'm adding a close up view, of the three Mounting Bolts, so you can see the " Staking method " used by the Factory, as called for in the Service Manual. One bolt was loose so, obviously they did not Do It Right. Note: In the photo below, see the 8mm 1.25 thread pitch " Tap " I used to clean out the threads in the bolt holes. This is the best way to remove the Old Loctite there, before reassembly, be sure to clean threads with solvent, before reinstalling the " NEW " bolts that you are going to order , when you order your New " Starter Clutch Engage Unit " -----Also adding Photo close up of the springs + weights that fit into the assembly. ( Note: the Crack in the Brass material ) -----Also Photo of Starter, and Gear Drive to the 72 tooth sprocket. ----- Also view of Entire Engage Unit as to how it fits to the flywheel ( rotor ) -----------My, Entire Engage Unit, needs to be Replaced. --------- -------The Unit has 57,300 miles on it.------ ------- The first time I heard the noise was around 20K. -------- I have Done All the Other Fixes as discussed on this web site: This is the first time I have pulled the Rotor Off. It took me about 4 hours, but I'm retired, and I don't work fast for anybody anymore !!! ( that includes the wife !!! ) Still waiting for the New Parts to get here. ( Going to be 50 F tomorrow !! well I guess I will just have to ride the Busa until I get this job done , Darn !!! )
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