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Showing results for tags 'running'.
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After having my carbs of for the second time I finally noticed that three of my pilot jets were completly stopped up. After much work I managed to clear them out. I got my carbs back on the motorcycle Saturday morning. After a few minutes of cranking, it finally cranked up. This time it was actually running on all four cylinders. Before it was only hitting on one. Since the bike had sat for a very long time you can imagine what my shop looked like. I couldn't even see for the smoke. I shut it down and went to town and got oil and filter and came back and changed the oil. I started it again and let it run for about 15 minutes and smooth out some as well as burn off all the oil on the engine and pipes. Hearing it crank and run was one of the sweetest things I've heard in a long time. I said all that to get to my question. It seems to be running fairly smooth and the throtle responds good but it is idleing at 3000 rpm and I can't get it to come down. The idle screw is backed all the way out. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
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so what are the differences between the 83, which i have, and an 85vr? i found a bike locally, running, but always could use some parts. besides, my 2nd gear just went. will it work? -
Well, I went to my first "Slimey Crud Run". It's a motorcycle rally that takes place just west of Madison, goes from Pine Bluff to Leland, WI. Lots of different bikes, from old to new, show ready to barely running, Brit, American, Asian, and the people to match them. I saw some 2nd gen Ventures, but only saw a couple of 1st gen ones. Unfortunately, mine wasn't there. I fixed the shifter cam issue, but since it had been "abandoned" for several months, I couldn't get it running in time to go, so I took my other bike, a 650 Maxim that I've had for 18 years. Yes, it is green. -Andrew
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My "new to me" '03 Wing has Cobra mufflers on it. Just wondering what others are running and what ya'll think about them?
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As some of you know I have been battleinga rough running issue in 4th and 5th gear under a load for 3 months now, also popping and some back firring when slowing down or coasting down hill. Anyway on our trip it got worse and really hammered under a load in 4th and 5th gear. My mileage also dropped from 41 mpg to around 37mpg. Over the last couple of months I have done everything I could think of to fix the problem but it just kept slowly getting worse. I had also noticed that the gas cap was becoming a little hard to take off and put back on. Well today I happened to look at the bottom of the cap and noticed there are two little screws tjhat hold the locking part to the top of the cap. Well one of the srews were missing and the other one was 4 turns loose. After tightening it up it went back on like it was suppose to and low and behold my problem was solved. The bike ran smooth again and 2 tanks later I averaged 41.7 MPG. What a wonderful feeling to have it running the way it used to. So everyone check the little screws in their gas cap to be safe. Not sure where the one went that is missing but will take off the tank and drain to see if it is insidce or not. Evidently the tank needs to be sealed tight by the gas cap for it to run correctly.
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noticed my brake lights on trailer not working nor turn signals but had running lights. read all the forums but didnt run across my problem. checked power going into 5 to 4 connector under back seat and had all,everything right. checked power coming out and only had the running light wire hot. so bought a new 5 to 4 connector and installed it way and had power for a bit till i touch brown and green or something and had a spark while wiring trailer plug back up and now the outlet on the new connector is the same as old one, only running light wire hot.it blew a fuse[head] when i did that, can you fry the 5 to 4 connector that easy? for now i took connector off and wired brakes to red and running lights to brown right off bike wires so i at least have running lights and brakes.want to fix it right but need to know if that spark could take out my new $28.00 5 to 4 connector. help! before i spend $28.00 again and blow it.
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I have looked at the threads about wiring in spot lights / running lights. I will be using a relay, mounting it under the seat, fused, etc. I am thinking that the blue wire for the taillight should be in a harnass running under the seat. Would it be sufficient to power my relay from wire running to the taillight so the spot lights are only on when the key is turned on? I am also going to wire in a manual switch up front. Will this wire / circuit handle the load of the relay? Thanks. R. -
I just put some nasty boys on the venture Sunday. I rode it to work and back home, about 27 miles each way. When I got home I let it idol in the drive while I waited on my daughter. Well I noticed the coolant on the ground maybe about a couple of ounces not much but like she was running a little hot any ideas? The pipes had the baffles taken out when I bought them used. They. Sound great and she seems to run better just need the carbs synched. Thanks for any ideas
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I got my 83 venture the 4th of July. After running a couple of tanks with sea foam in it I was getting 40 mpg. Now getting 37 mpg or a little less, I thought I might be running into some problems. Looking into a few things my problem is self inflickted. The more I ride the more comfort I have in the bike. So my driving a little harder and faster is more then likly the problem. Things are not as they seam.
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I've had my project Venture up and running for a while now but I am having problems getting up to 14 volts when running. My head light is dim and signals slow. Battery is fully charged and the bike starts and runs fine. Volts will read a max of 13.8 at 3000 rpm. Is it the stator or something else that I can look at? Mike Smegielski Waterbury, CT -
Went to drop something of on the bike, it started just fine in the (AC-ed) garage, drove about 15 miles and when i got done with my errand, it acted as though the battery was dying, forgot to raise the kick stand and she would barely turn over. Had to roll it of to start and the voltmeter just barely touched the top of the "12" at 3500-4000RPM. Temp was at the top of the green too, but at 95 degrees on new blacktop I kinda doubt that is an issue. so before i start tearing into anything i thought I'd ask for opinions. I have the new RR from the last group buy mounted on top of the airbox. I have the stator wired straight into the harness. I do have a new stator if need be. All running lights and brake/tail are LED. Headlight is modified to the two bulb system. No blown fuses I can find. Battery shows 12.87 off and running at 3K 13.8 +/- (at the battery terminals) It would seem there is no problem, but I don't want to get stuck and lose my new job.
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So me and the misses are coming home at dusk and I notice my running lights are not on....Headlight, Tail and Running lights...Brake and Turn are OK... A couple of week ago I wired for a trailer behind the tail light....SOOOOOOOO] Pulled into driveway....Checked the 15amp fuse and it was gone....replaced and all is well...Running lights work again....Got on the beast to move it into the garage and I have to run up on a slightly elevated concrete edge....When I bounced over it..OUT GOES THE RUNNING lights again...by this time its. dark... My though is that my connection in the taillight must have worked loose and it is shorting our....I'll check tomorrow PM after I get home from work. Question..Does this make "electrical guru" sense? Note: Leaving on first long distance trip the first of Sept and HOPE this is all it is.... Long Tall Lynchburg, VA
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I have been out of circulation for some time now. bike is running fine, but since I am on the road every week with this new job when I get home I am just plum tired and I doubt the bike has run 100 miles this year yet. It runs - I can't! so at least I can get back on the forum and catch up with all the craziness running around. Stay cool and ride safe.
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I started my 2006 Tour Deluxe this morning and noticed a really strong gas smell. It turns out that fuel is coming up out of the front left carb and running down to the fairing, then out on the ground. It only does this when running, so I'm not sure if the inlet is stuck open or what may be going on. I've searched here, and tried letting it run out of fuel with the fuel cock set to off, but am not able to do much else. I'm quite incompetant when it comes to locating where these parts actually are inside the carb casing. The carbs were rebuilt by the previous owner about 2 days before I came to pick up the bike. It's ran fine for about 3-4 months now until today. Any suggestions would be welcomed. -
I was sitting in the living room yesterday and noticed that it seemed unusually hot. Looked at my thermostat and it had gotten up to 83 in the house. A/C showed to be running but I looked outside and saw that the fan was not running on the outside unit. So....A/C is down. Did what checks I could do but didn't find the problem. Finally called the repair folks and they are supposed to be here this morning. It did cool off to 81 by this morning. Could have been worse I guess. Temps yesterday were in the 97 range with 50% humidity. Now to see what it is going to cost to fix this thing.
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A Few months a go(5K mile) I dd the skydoc clutch mod and replaced the valve cover gaskets on his 99RSV. All as put back together and running Great. Now hes complaining of poor running and his pals smell raw fuel behind him and 37MPG when he used to get 43MPG. Ill have the bike again this weekend but besides something falling into teh carbs Im lost and thinking this guy has another issue not caused by my hands. Im at a loss for words because its mid summer I work 70 hours a week and now I have to cancell plans with my family thi weekend over it.
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So... I was riding home ('08 with 30k miles) from work this evening... and out of the blue, It acts like it's running out of fuel. Spitting and sputtering and finally just died. I took off the fuel cap and peeked in the tank... PLENTY of gas. Cycled the key... heard the fuel pump running... but it was running "slowly".... after several attempts and key cycles.... she fired up and ran fine the rest of the way home..... anybody have any Ideas???? I checked the battery connections and they were tight. Not sure what else to check...especially since it runs FINE now...... I know it's under warrenty.... but if I bring it in... they won't find anything since it's running fine now.....
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I am looking for a kit to convert my turn indicators into running lights, any suggestions? I'm looking for an easy install if possilbe. thanks
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I wasn't sure where to post this. It's about tires, but it's on a sidecar rig and it's got a little bit of darkside throw in for good measure. I decided to put it where I thought it might get the most eyes. I have a '83 with a California Friendship I sidecar. I've been getting about 3k miles out of a Dunlop 404 on the rear. Ideally with a sidecar rig I'd run a car tire but after doing MUCH digging, it appears that a car tire isn't an option with the 16'' wheel. So I'm looking for the meanest, nastiest, live forever tire I can find. It looks like a lot of people are running Avon Vemon's or Dunlop Elite 3's. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I see a lot of chatter about the Avon's cracking so I'm shying away from them, but the E 3's in 1st Gen sizes aren't radials. I don't know why, but I think I should be running a more modern radial tire. Any issues with running bias ply's? I even looked into swapping in a 15'' Vmax wheel but couldn't find any one that had actually done it and there is very little clearance between the swingarm and the stock tire. So even if you could get a Vmax wheel on there, I doubt that I could find a car tire that would clear. Thoughts? Comments? Rude remarks? -
We'll be at Deadwood sunday July 3rd at 1:30 pm. Rocket and Rod will be here so this would be one way to have a group meet up with them from our area. Such a busy summer with Canadians, Australians, and Icelandic folk running about the states. Hope some of you can make it. I'm gonna post it to the calendar as well. Margaret
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This makes no sense at all. The PO installed running lights. a wire comes off the fuse block to a switch...then to the lights. Simple right? So why does turning on the running lights cause my sidestand warning to come on? Not right away....and not after any kind of predictable time. They come on after a random time period...but will stay on until I turn off the running lights. Turning off the running lights turns off the red warning light and computer graphic. Turn on the running lights and the warnings come back on...sometimes right away....sometimes not for quite awhile. When this warning comes on, it does not kill the engine( it works as it should when the side stand IS actually down) Its only a minor annoyance....but it's got me completely baffled! -
Rumor has it that Congressman Anthony Weiner is going to run for president. He has chosen Attorney General Eric Holder as his running mate. Get your Weiner-Holder bumper stickers early, before they are all gone
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Went out riding yesterday and on the way home ran slap into a major downpour:depressed: (***note to self: stop and don rain gear :doh:before you hit wall of water:rain2:) Anyway, stuff in the trunk and bags got wet, I know there is a "gasket" running through the lid, can these still be had and if so where? If not, what are the alternatives? Thanks
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Well, I managed to find a nice harley rear light unit off Ebay. Got the item and now for the wiring. I find that this unit has 1157 bulbs which of course means stop and running lights. The wires are only marked in the manner noted below. One is copper and the other is aluminum? Its silver anyway. So which would be stop and which would be running? Some one out there knows for sure.
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I came on to the bike at an intersection tonight, pounding through to third gear, and saw a little red light come on , on the lower left side of the instrument display. What was that? It only stayed on for a few seconds. then when I got home, the bike seemed to be running fast.
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