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Showing results for tags 'remove'.
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I know I seen it here somewhere? someone HELP! please. -
Mine is cracked and rattles. I could probably remove it but I would like have one if someone has one for sale. I looked but couldn't find a part number for it. Thanks! Ray -
I am going to be stripping & cataloging the parts bike. The engine has 60K mile & I would like to remove it, crate it & store it for future rebuild. What is the best way to get it out of the frame. My available lifting tools are a car floor jack. car transmission jack, a bottle jack, as well as a full car engine crane. Now on my 81 CB750 I found the easiest way to remove the engine was to remove all the mounts on the left side, lay her down & remove the right motor mounting points. When I lift the frame up, the engine is sitting nicely on the floor w/o a problem. I read Scott MacMartin's write up http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39013 but it really doesn't clarify the actual removal. So to the ones on here who have pulled their Gen1 engines, how did you do it?
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While taking off my forks to get Progressive springs installed, I checked the bearings and found the lower cup showing wear/damage lines. Since I could feel the line with my fingernail, I believe it is time to replace these bearings (probably only the lower needs replaced, but I am replacing both while in there). I took the lower tree with the lower bearing cone (inner race) to the dealer along with my forks. They are doing the spring replacement since I do not have the proper tools to remove and install the seals. They are going to remove the bottom bearing for me. However, I am looking at a way to remove the bearing cups (outer races) from the neck. The shop manual says to use a long drift for the lower. Nothing in my tool chest comes close to fitting in there. I borrowed a tool from the dealer to remove the top cup. We will see tonight if it will work. My questions is: What do you use to remove the lower cup in the steering head tube? RR -
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What are the black plastic panels on top of each head? I would like to remove them. -
I have to remove the gear cover to get at the slave cylinder to replace clutch line I removed all the bolts but before i go and try to pry it off I need to make sure theres nothing else to look for I only found 7 bolts and the service manual IS NOT very clear as to what to remove any one done it before???
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I'm in the middle of trying to remove my carburetors. Its kind of tough getting the carbs off of the bike. I've got the owners manual and it really isnt much help. i figure one your threads can help, maybe with picture. anyone with any insight would be much appreciated! -
I need to charge my battery for my 09 RSV. It it under the seat? I understand from a thread that there are two bolts to remove under in front. A little help please, Curby
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I am helping a friend get his 1986 Yamaha Venture up and running again. It's been sitting for 2 1/5 years. I need to remove the seat and for the life of me I cannot figure out how. It's embarassing but I just can't figure it out. Plese help -
This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks. -
I haven't been able to find a write up on here on the r/r of the slave cylinder. I will document my job with pix & post it here for others that follow. Looking at the service manual, I have been able to surmise the following must be done. But I have some preliminary questions I will post in red: 1. Remove bolts on the left footrest-shifter. 2. Remove the 6 allen bolts on the middle-gear cover.. Do I have to drain the oil? 3. Remove the bolt that attaches the clutch line to the slave What size are they? 4 Remove the two allen bolts holding the cylinder to the engine. What size are they? Can I use Allen Wrenchs or will I need to buy metric hex sockets? Also is there a preferred bleeding technique or is it a pain like bleeding my Honda's front caliper? (not enough pressure) Basically That is all the questions I have to prepare for this. I looks simple enough. Andy -
Malibu Headlamp Replacement Rob Spiegel, Senior Editor, Automation & Control 11/23/2011 GM seemed to get a lot of things right when it introduced the new Generation 7 Chevy Malibu in 2008. I got one of the higher-end models with a six-cylinder engine and a very smooth shifting six-speed automatic transmission. I was generally happy with the car until a headlamp bulb burned out. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a replacement bulb for about $12. Then I popped the hood and found that I couldn't get to the back of the headlight assembly. The owner's manual was no help at all -- its advice was to consult the dealer for bulb replacements. A quick Internet search revealed the awful truth: To replace the headlight bulb, you needed to remove the front bumper (among other parts). The dealer confirmed this and quoted $150 labor to replace one bulb. The steps needed to replace the headlight bulb are as follows: Open the hood and remove the plastic cover above the radiator (14 screws). Jack up the car and remove the wheel (five lug nuts). Remove the wheel-well liner (15 screws and pop-rivets). This exposes two bolts that hold the bumper in place; remove these bolts and slide off the end of the bumper. Now, you can reach the three bolts that hold in the headlight assembly; remove the headlight assembly and replace the bulb. Replace everything (29 screws, nuts, bolts, and pop-rivets). If you think you might as well replace both lamps while you're at it, you'll still have to remove the other front wheel, wheel-well liner, the other side of the bumper, and the other headlight assembly (25 additional fasteners). In my Toyota Camry, I could replace both headlight bulbs in less time than it takes to read this paragraph -- without needing a single tool. Just open the hood, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn to remove it, and plug in the new bulb. What's next? Will we have to remove the dashboard to change the oil? Remove the rear seats every time we get gas? I can't believe that there wasn't a way to provide easier access to parts that require replacement many times over the life of a car. Maybe the monkeys who designed the car don't think it's going to last very long?
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I'm embarrassed to say this but I tried to remove the left side crankcase to install my new clutch spring. I got the clutch installed on the right side but only after I screwed up the gasket and the starter clutch wiring on the left side crankcase. How hard is it to remove the left side crankcase and replace the stator coil wire since I think I damaged it while trying to remove the cover? Also it feels like the (left) crankcase cover has something keeping it from coming right off ( springs back when pulled on). Is there something I need to know about when removing that cover?
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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I am going to remove my rear wheel this weekend for a tire replacement. I have a jack and the carbon one adapter and a tire. What all do I need to remove before the wheel? The manual I have, says to remove the muffler, saddlebag guide bar (left and right) exhaust pipe, rear brake caliper, and of course the axle. This sounds like a major job. Do I need to take off BOTH saddlebag bars? And, does the exhaust pipe have to come off? I figured, I'd just remove the Right saddlebag and muffler, then remove the caliper and snatch out the axle??? I'm sure once I get into it, I will realize what has to come off. Just wanted some input, so I would be prepared. Sometimes, I spend too much time trying to "NOT" remove something that would have been easier to just remove in the first place. Thanks, for any tips that might make the job easier. dana -
does anyone have a stock clutch spring laying around from an upgrade? I have a friend who wants to remove the heavier spring and replace with a stock one.
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Do you have to remove the tires from the bike to balance them?
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After three months of inactivity, I've finally gotten back to the fork seal replacement on my '87 VR. Can't see how to remove the air ride collars on the upper tubes though. I've loosened the bolts a bit, but now the rubber tubes on them spin the bolt back with each turn. I need to get these off to get the upper tube out to finish the seal install. I tried the method from the tech library section, but I just can't get the seal and bushings seated properly that way. This is my "last gasp" effort as I have pretty much had it with this job. I'm not certain I can even get it put back together now, but if I can at least get the fork together and the wheel back on, it will be easier to move the bike. Failing that, I will completely strip it and put the parts on ebay. It was running quite well when I stored it last November and everything still works, so I may be able to get some decent money for the pieces, but I need to get it out of my garage and somewhere else to dismantle it...so, I need to get the fork and the wheel back on so that I can move it. Now then...how do I remove the air ride collars? The description in the manual says "Remove air ride collars." Wow...that's really helpful! Sorry, but since I'm not that bright or talented, I need just a bit more info. Right now, my angle grinder with a cutting blade is looking mighty attractive! Andy
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So, Saturday I decided to take my 01 BMW F650 GS Dakar out for a ride. Great bike and a lot of fun. The battery'd been fading for the past few months and everytime I'd start out it would "drag" a little and then light off. Well, Saturday I found I'd waited too long-no cranking. That's OK, 'cause it was my own fault for waiting too long. Anyway, got the new battery today and went to change 'em out. Never done that on this bike in the three years I've owned it. Get the manual out. OK, let's see, unlock trunk bracket and remove trunk, unlock and remove tailpiece, remove seat, remove right front TURN SIGNAL(?) (4 bolts), remove right side trim (5 bolts), remove center trim piece (2 bolts) and voila, there's the battery! What the ?? Must be getting old, 'cause I remember doing a ring job on an H2 750 Kawasaki and only having to pull 18 bolts to drop the exhaust and pull the Heads and Cylinders!! It's like the little elves in the black forest hung the battery on piano wire and then built the bike around it. No wonder BMW service is so pricey:whistling:
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I need to remove the Reflector with the word Yamaha in it. It is located between the two side bags at the rear/bottom. Can someone provide some general steps of instructions so I do not dismantle things that are not needed. I tend to do that alot, remove things that are not needed. -
Hi. This is the first time I post on this forum. I need to know the part number for the bleed screw that bleed the carburator on a first gen 1983. I have one badly round off and cannot remove it at all. I would like to know if it's available before attempting something '' drastic'' to remove it! Thanks. Denis
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Is there a secrete in how to remove the left and right lower air vents on an MKII?
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Is there an easy way to remove my TCI? It looks very hard to get at.
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I'm sure this has been covered, but I thought it bears repeating. My starter cranked very weak. All connections were great and little loss through the solenoid. Skydoc_17 suggested that I install a VMAX starter (4 brush vs. 2 brush), which he sold me at discount (thanks). This Totally solved my problem-period! I read a tutorial somewhere that detailed removing exhaust pipes (it's not that involved and you don't need to disconnect the exhaust)! You DO need to remove the radiator and lower hoses. The bypass tube leading from the thermostat housing and the housing itself (remove the plastic elbow from the water pump and take the entire assembly out). Use new O-rings for everything and use some vasoline to lube them (or something similar). I have a first Gen and I needed to remove the air dam and it was easier with the right side crash bar removed. I spent about 3 hours, but I changed the thermostat and did some other things as well. I should have taken pictures, but that would have cut into my drinking time!
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Need to get to fuse panel. The inner cowling screw near the brake pedal just turns with no in or out movement no matter which way I turn screw.. Pressure against the cowling plastic doesn't help. Any trick to this? Seems like threads or nut? behind this is fubar. First time for me to try and remove. I guessing it has been off before since middle bottom push screw is missing. Wally
