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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. Put the new tire on and keep the old one around. When the new tire wears out, put the older tire back on and run it until the tread is uncomfortably low. Win/Win. RR
  2. FYI - If you are jumping the bike from a car/truck, make sure the car/truck is not running at the time. The amperage put out by the car/truck alternator is substantially higher than most motorcycles can handle. RR
  3. I intend to at least put them in the freezer overnight. Not sure where to get dry ice around here anymore. Good idea though. RR
  4. I was also going to use the long threaded rod and come washers to press the cups back into the neck. What time is a good time to call? RR
  5. Company vehicle that covers gas for me. Now, if you asked what I spend on parts/farkles for the bikes....... I will never write that down in case SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) sees it. RR
  6. Once I chat with Ruffy I will write up the reinstallation of the bearings. RR
  7. There certainly was no trick. Pure brute force with the Dremel. In the service manual it shows a couple of recesses supposedly allowing access to the rear rib. However, I didn't have a drift that was skinny enough to get on it. Ruffy, would you please post a picture of the drift you used? Preferably next to a ruler or pencil for scale. Also, where did you get it? RR
  8. Ruffy, I'll give you a call when I get ready to reinstall the bearings. They are still on order from the dealer (just ordered them yesterday) and my forks are being done. Likely won't be until this weekend that I get around to installing them. That said, if you will be around this evening, I may give you a call to discuss. Yes, and I tried the brand new drift at the two recess points. Either my drift was too big or the recess cutouts were too small. Could not get purchase enough to hit it. Before I reinstall the bearing I may Dremel out the recesses a bit to allow another bearing change at 200k miles. RR
  9. Well, I don't have a welder, but I do have a Dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel. That finally did it. Have filled the overshoot slots with JB Weld and will smooth them out before reinstalling the new bearing. Only worried about the slot where the seal rides. It won't make any difference behind the bearing. The ice didn't loosen it enough to fall out. Didn't think it would, but it was worth a try. Also heated the outside with a hair dryer while the ice was on the inside race. No go. Dremel to the rescue. RR
  10. I was able to get the top one out with a drift. There is enough of the rear rib showing to get the drift on it. With the bottom one, not so much. I have a bag of ice (with liberal application of salt) on the ID of the lower bearing now. Will eat some supper and then go out and see if I can get it loose. RR
  11. Passed 100k miles last year. It was time to do the fork spring. Probably could survive with the current steering head bearings, but they were a little notchy and since I was already in there..... RR
  12. While taking off my forks to get Progressive springs installed, I checked the bearings and found the lower cup showing wear/damage lines. Since I could feel the line with my fingernail, I believe it is time to replace these bearings (probably only the lower needs replaced, but I am replacing both while in there). I took the lower tree with the lower bearing cone (inner race) to the dealer along with my forks. They are doing the spring replacement since I do not have the proper tools to remove and install the seals. They are going to remove the bottom bearing for me. However, I am looking at a way to remove the bearing cups (outer races) from the neck. The shop manual says to use a long drift for the lower. Nothing in my tool chest comes close to fitting in there. I borrowed a tool from the dealer to remove the top cup. We will see tonight if it will work. My questions is: What do you use to remove the lower cup in the steering head tube? RR
  13. 39 yo. Bought an '83 Venture. Had it for about a month, took the MSF class, and traded it on my 2000 RSV. RR
  14. First I've heard of it. Sure is purdy though. Although it certainly looks like one of the modern RSTDs. Don't think they made that in 1997. Would be interesting to look at the neck sticker and see what year is listed there. RR
  15. I was going to advise the Bunny Ranch and put a link to their website. However, WOW, would not pass the PG rating. RR
  16. I don't think that is the finger you are supposed to put up to signify being number 1. RR
  17. RedRider

    GUNS

    The Judge RR
  18. Dan and I have been discussing this over the past few days. The Idaho location is a little too far west for me in the time allotted for my trip. However, if no one can take advantage of the generous offer from skzoid, is there someone who can get it from Idaho to Great Falls, MT (or Billings, or Butte, or Helena) , and someone in GF, MT who can hang onto it until I come thru July 1st? I can take it from there. Let's get this back up nort' where it belongs. RR
  19. It's Valentine's Day. Let her Super Size it, Mr. Romantic. RR
  20. The boots are a sandwich of rubber outside/inside with a steel lining. Mine have been cracked on the outside for years and many miles. Never a problem. If you are concerned, spray some carb cleaner at the cracks and see if the RPM changes. If not, no problem. If it does, they need replaced. RR
  21. Yup, heading down tomorrow. My Dad is coming from Ft. Wayne with a couple of friends. Looking forward to slobbering over the new cassette players in the new 2012 Venture. Actually, interesting in seeing the new adventure bike from Triumph. RR
  22. If you want GPS, CB, XM, IC, and BT/phone all to work together at the same time, it is possible. However, you will need some auxiliary equipment. 1) GPS that can handle the XM and BT. Garmin Zumo family can do this. 550 or 665 will take care of it. 2) Get the BuddyRich cable to connect the sound output from the Zumo to the bike system and the bike (helmet) microphone back to the Zumo. 3) If you have BT headset, you may be able to avoid the mic connection. The 550 does not have stereo BT output so it wouldn't work for XM. However, I believe the 665 has stereo BT. 4) While the BT may work with the Zumo, it will not work with the CB and/or bike IC. You will need to hardwire for that or get some BT adapter. Never seen one, but never looked. RR
  23. The squeaking is just the rod seal asking for some lube. Won't hurt anything. If you want to shut it up, use a hypodermic needle (or meat injector) to squirt some 50/50 ATF and 20wt fork oil in there. Do a search in the tech section for how much. IIRC, it isn't much. RR
  24. They will last if the motor is designed for use with a VFD. The problems with a standard motor occur at either high speed (high switching frequency causes the wire varnish to wear) or at low speed (can't get the heat out of it cause the fan isn't turning fast enough). RR
  25. Brushless DC motor would be $$$$ (but would work beautifully). It would be overkill for this application IMHO, but oh, so cool. RR
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