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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. There are no lights in the handlebar control pods. RR
  2. Oooohhh, a 2000 MM. Beautiful bike. I have the 2000 red one - it's faster - with 160k miles. Would trust jumping on it tomorrow and heading to California. You should be able to get a >100k Gen 2 for $2500 or so. My son picked up a 2007 with 45k miles for under $3k last year. They are out there. But to be fair, if you're going to have the bike for 5 or 10 years, what does a couple of hundred bucks matter? Buy what puts a smile on your face. RR
  3. If you are needing a long oval for forehead clearance, there are a few selections. LS2 has a complete line of oval and long oval in FF and modular that are very reasonably priced. Order one size up from what you wear in HJC. Also, the Arai SignetX is a long oval but expensive - FF only. Motorcyclegear.com has excellent customer service and will exchange for a different size. They often have last year's models on sale. Revzilla (they also own CycleGear) also has good customer service. As for getting a drink, set up a Camelback and use a right angle bit valve. It fits easily inside a FF helmet. Attach the bit valve end of the hose to a retractable key holder mounted where you can reach it. RR
  4. This is the setup on my new-to-me long distance steed. The hose is plumbed under the seat into the tank. Again, gravity feed. The tube coming out is from the Camelback mounted atop the tank. You can see the bite valve next to the water bottle. TT
  5. Puc, The hose that appears to be coming out the top is actually my hydration system coming from the Coleman next to the tank. The fuel line comes out from the bottom on the clutch side. You can see the petcock and inline fuel filter for the aux tank mounted to the black board. The fuel line runs down the clutch side and T's into the fuel line just behind the main tank petcock. The metal thing sticking out of the aux tank cap is the tether anchor. I could get a little over 325 miles before stopping without hitting reserve. RR
  6. As one of the old long distance riders used to say - "You can only have too much gas if you are on fire." If you are riding one up, I suggest going to an auxiliary gas tank mounted on the passenger seat. It is easy to plumb in by installing a T between the petcock and the fuel pump. Gravity feed. I had a 5 gallon spun aluminum tank mounted on a board (was actually cut from a support board under the belt from an old treadmill). Drilled holes to mount U-bolts that clamp around the passenger grab handles. Solid as a rock.
  7. Mr. Rooster, I believe I have one. I am de-farkling my bike to sell it this spring and just removed it tonight. Let me know how you would like it sent to you. No charge. RR
  8. I have two large pump bottles of orange hand cleaner - one in the garage/shop, one in the house. They last about 2 years each. It has gotten better since I started wearing nitrile gloves when working on really dirty stuff. RR
  9. So a search on here for an ignition switch bypass circuit. It is fairly easy to implement (and remove back to stock). This would be much simpler and cheaper than changing out your ignition switch just to see if that's the problem. RR
  10. Thank you. That may work since my daughter is on a dental fellowship at the tech school in Eau Claire. Will let you know when the time gets closer. RR
  11. My son purchased an '07 Venture and I'm about to retire my 2000. Before I sell it, I want to move all the goodies to my son's bike. One of the items is a Hagan shock which will require getting both bikes up on a lift. I have one lift adapter but will need another. I know I could use wood blocks or hockey pucks. However, I really like the stability of the lift adapter. Anybody have one in east-central WI I could borrow for a weekend? It will likely be in April or May as he can't ride up here until the weather clears up. He lives in Baton Rouge. RR
  12. Just one. Keep the other one in my tank bag in case it falls off. Hasn't fallen off in 3 or 4 years of being installed. However, I think I'm needing to up the magnification for this year. Gettin' old isn't for sissies.
  13. Primary GPS on the throttle side. Secondary GPS on the clutch side. If I'm not in rally mode, only use the primary which is wired into the bike for directions and XM. BTW, if you need cheaters to see up close, use a stick-on bifocal lens on the bottom of your helmet faceshield. Works great. Search for 'stick-on bifocal' in Amazon and choose your strength. I place mine a little off-center so it isn't in my normal field of view. Tilt my head a bit to check the GPS and it is clear. RR
  14. I'll have to look. At one time I had a set that I removed. Don't know if I kept them or tossed 'em. More than likely kept them if you look at the mess of stuff in my shop. Will check later today and advise. RR
  15. I use a SENA 20S headset in my FF helmet which only allows BT. It hooks up to my GPS and phone so I can get directions and music at the same time. When I was hard wired, I used the J&M headset. Works fine although not loud enough with earplugs in. RR
  16. You can search on this site for a write up on the fuel pump contact points. Cost about $30 and easy to change out. I too carry a spare fuel pump but have never needed it. Common problem with an easy fix. RR
  17. Unfortunately, no. I still have OEM pipes on mine. Way back before the earth cooled, I sent my Bub pipes to @Squidley in exchange for OEMs as the Bubs were a bit loud for my taste. (Or did we trade them in person? It's been a while). RR
  18. Looking for a windshield in decent shape to replace the old scratched and stickered shield on my 2000 RSV. I believe it is about time to pass Ol' Red on to someone else as it just doesn't get ridden much any more. Going to cull the herd from 4 bikes to no more than 2 and the Venture no longer makes the cut. However, I want to keep the windshield with all the rally stickers and need one to replace it. With @GoldenRider getting a really nice 2008, I can move the 2000 nice additions to him (Hagan shock, chrome radiator grill, volt meter, Russell Day Long saddle, engine guard supports, Carbon One lift, etc., etc.) and put the OEM items on Ol' Red for the sale. However, I need a windscreen. Sometime later this summer will be a really well maintained 2000 RSV with 160k miles for sale - along with a 2009 BMW GSA and a 1986 BMW K75. That will leave me with a 2008 KLR and money to buy something to do my long distance rallying (Triumph Trophy, BMW R1200RT, Kawasaki Concours 14, FJR, ???). What do you have laying around your shop that may fill my windshield need? RR
  19. I have one of the narrow ones (bought off Amazon for $40-ish) and use it extensively. When the bike is on the HF platform lift, front tire in a wheel chock, I can tie down the front and lift the rear to get additional clearance to remove the tire. It also works this way for my BMWs and KLR. Have not tried it all by itself. It would be really scary having your 900 lb Venture precariously balanced on that small jack. No way. Although, you mentioned using both at the same time. Maybe. RR
  20. Goldenrider and I got the rear head reinstalled and timed up yesterday. Hoping to have it roadworthy later today. Hopefully, no one will need to deal with this. But if you do, here are some things we found (in no particular order): - The rear head can be removed without pulling the engine. You get about an inch of clearance and it comes out easily. Don't know about the front head, but it looks like it should make it. - The Yamaha replacement head gasket has a coating already on it. - The inside edges of the head casting are very sharp, This makes it very difficult to slide in the long chain guide (front side). We used a jeweler's file (Harbor Freight set is nice) to put a small chamfer on the inside edge. This allowed the chain guide to slide in much easier and without damage. It is a really tight fit getting this guide in place around the frame neck. - The small rolled positioning pins for the cam shaft caps are easily damaged - AND VERY SHARP. We found using the smooth end of a drill bit to roll the edges back out works. A 1/4" bit should just fit inside. Be wary of these pins while spinning the wrenches. They can, and do, leave a nasty cut on your knuckles. - Put a little oil on the pins before installing the caps (you are also to oil the journals and inside of cam caps). This helps the caps slide on much easier. - Setting the correct timing positions is a PITA. It took a couple of tries as the positions of the cam shafts move when the chain guides are put in place. - Use a paint pen to mark the cam shaft sprocket and chain position. This helped to judge moving the sprocket teeth one tooth in the chain. - Having never done this before, we preinstalled the head with the old gasket just to see how it would go. This was a good thing as we weren't experimenting with the good head gasket. - Have a good service manual. We had both a Yamaha Service Manual and Clymers. They were in general agreement but one or the other will have the illustrations/pictures you want to see. - Don't set the labelled muffin tray of bolts on the floor next to the bike. As we were really concentrating on what we were doing (radio-and-TV-off level of concentration), pictures were not taken. Sorry. I will add additional points to this list as I think of them. RR
  21. Flash, It could be a few things causing it to run rich. First (and easiest), check the mixture screws on the carbs. If you haven't dealt with them previously, they may be covered by a small brass cap. Just knock those off and throw them away. Make sure they are all set the same. Mine are 2-1/4 turns out (IIRC - haven't messed with them for a while). You will need a long flat blade screw driver - same as you need to sync the carbs. After adjustment, sync the carbs. Second, make sure the carbs are seated properly in the intake boots. I had one carb that was always difficult to sync and was getting gas smell when riding. After removing the carbs to do a valve shim check, I noticed the boot has folded in the last time the carbs had been installed. Reinstalled the carbs correctly and it sync'd right up and the gas smell went away. Third, the float height adjustment might be off. This is not uncommon. Of course there can be other problems with the float/needle too. There is a thread here that discusses setting the float height properly. Good luck and let us know what you found. RR
  22. Bratman, I've never had to change the seal, but here is what it looks like. Appears the Tenere' Youtube procedure would work.
  23. There is a center tab on the bottom of the trim. It can get worn or broken and no longer holds. Take and old keyboard key (or some other ABS plastic) and melt it onto where the tab should be. Shape it until it fits into the mating clip. RR
  24. My son had an '83 blonde Venture I 'won' in a St. Judes fundraiser on this site. Don't recall who ran the fundraiser. Story time: My wife and I were vacationing in San Antonio (2013) while this fundraising auction was going on. It got down to 2 people bidding with just a few seconds left. I looked to my bride and she nodded yes - I bid again and won. After we headed home, I then asked the question that should have been asked initially. "Where is this bike, anyway" Houston. At the time, my son was living in Austin and didn't have a bike. He rode mine before he moved out and had an endorsement and a helmet. He took a bus to Houston to pick it up and rode it back to Austin. Starter gear started acting up and I bought one from Bongodave (IIRC) and had it shipped to my son. He rode back to Houston and I rode down from Wisconsin and we met at @Squidley's place to do the change out. Went great. Son rode that '83 (with an '86 engine due to previous owner's 2nd gear problem) until early 2020. He had moved to Phoenix and turned into a pretty good Venture wrench since it was his principal mode of transportation. At some point I convinced him to join VR and he chose @GoldenRider as his screen name. The bike I won has only been in my garage once when GR rode home to visit. It was really nickel and diming him and he found it a new home. Purchased a distressed Honda Valkyrie and got it running well. However, it didn't really fit him comfortably. Recently found a really nice 2008 for a better than fair price (had a reported stator issue). He picked it up in southern Illinois and brought it to our house. The stator problem was a poor soldering job in place of the stator connector and the plug for the R/R was forced in backwards. Resoldered the lines, turned the plug around, and we were getting 14 volts charging. That's when it was decided to do a complete maintenance job including the valve shims. It has gone seriously pear-shaped from there. Besides, I'm not ready to retire yet. Another 5 or so years. Just have to keep the 2000 going until then so I can finally put some real miles on it (only 160,000 or so on it now).
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