RedRider

Forgot about the Butt-Butler. Takes a stock seat from 100 miles to 200-250 miles. Big improvement for very little money. Rick did/does nice work. If you are going to spend $700, get a Russell Day Long (day-long.com). If you look through the parking lot of the Iron Butt Rally (1000+ miles/day for 11 days) you will see 80% RDLs. If you want all day comfort regardless of miles, there is no substitute. I have one on my Venture and have done 6000+ miles in 6 days and my butt was ready for more. RR Edit: Looked at the Diamond site and they do make a good looking saddle that appears would be significantly better than stock.

I'm pretty sure Mustang does not make a seat for the Venture - only the TD. As to what is the best seat? Depends on what kind of riding you intend to do. Saturday poker runs where you might run a half tank of gas? Stock seat will be fine. Commute 40 miles per day? Stock might be OK but might want to add a gel pad or sheepskin. 200-400 mile days? Corbin, Saddleman, Airhawk pad 500-700 mile days? Corbin, Saddleman, Russell Day Long 700-1000+ mile days? Russell Day Long is the only choice. RR

Jake, I suspect your bowl floats are not adjusted properly. Fairly common with the second gen's and I assume the same issue with the RSTD. Search the site for the procedure to set them correctly. Kind of a pain, but not hard. Good luck. RR

I usually call it 'clutch side' and 'throttle side'. Never heard these noises on my Gen2. I too am very curious as to the cause. RR

I have found the HF torque wrenches to be pretty accurate when tested against my Snap-On. Just make sure you unload the spring before you store it. 70 inlb is just right. Finish the oil change and enjoy many miles of clutch-slip free riding. RR

Going by memory here - 27mm. Will check it later this evening. And the Allen wrench to turn the axle out is 10mm (again, memory only - will advise). I went to Sears (remember them) and got a combo wrench that I carry in my right saddle bag with my tool roll. RR

If this is the same as for the Venture, the fuel pump is a weakness. Didn't know it would throw a code though (perhaps not on the Venture). Often is is only the points in the rear of the fuel pump that are fairly easy to change out. Do a search in the tech section if you find this is your issue. Procedures and sources for 'points' are listed. RR

Have you replaced the fuel filter? Kind of a pain to get to, but not hard to do. RR

Barnett also sells heavy duty springs for their pressure plates. I was going through a clutch every 20-25k miles (spring weakening) and then did a Barnett. Lasted about 60k miles so it was a good upgrade. I then replaced the springs with the Barnett HD springs and I am good to go. With pulling the tug, I would suggest the HD springs. It WILL be a bear riding in rush hour Chicago traffic (harder clutch lever pull). DAMHIK. RR

Hope you're feeling better Don. RR

Just thought I would throw in here a plug for the HF lift table. It has held my RSV up all winter at times. Often on sale for $300 it is wonderful not to have to get on the ground for anything. And I have a Craftsman jack with CarbonOne's lift adapter (with legs). Excellent when needing to remove the wheels (and one of the other bikes is on the lift {humble brag}). RR

Depending on when it is, I may have to actually ride my Venture to this one. RR

I have one on my 2000 (installed 2002). Have 175k-ish miles without issue. It isn't a problem and will provide protection. RR

While I'm pretty sure I can't afford a new BMW, I know for sure I can't afford a used one. Owned one that was out of warranty. Fun to drive when it was running right. Ridiculously expensive to fix (indy shop too). Never again. BMW motorcycles? Now that's a different story. RR

Ahhh, right. RR

Didn't there used to be a VR member named Patch? Sold the gauge set that mounted in the cassette deck opening? Maybe? RR

As for the cord clip, it is just double sided tape holding it on. A piece of fish line or dental floss will allow you to 'cut' it off. Goo-B-Gone, WD-40, etc. for any remaining adhesive. RR

You bringing that up to FDL to fly in the spring? Would love to see that go. RR

Wear a long sleeve shirt and you should be fine. Low of 40 - we are months away from seeing such balmy weather. RR

Wait just one darn minute. You're in LA. What the heck do you need heated gear for? Send them to me for some real testing. RR

Don't know the number, but.... First, do you have a Heat-Troller? It will help as it regulates the power (PWM) to the various articles. From the Warm and Safe site (who I believe makes the FirstGear stuff), the jacket is 90-100 Watts, pants liner about 50W. Glove liners are 22W for the pair. Socks are 9W each. Heated gloves are about 20W each. Turn off your auxillary (running) lights should gain you 35-ish watts each (70 total). I have run an older 90W jacket liner and full gloves with a Heat-Troller - along with aux lights - without any difficulty. Suggest you add a voltage meter to see if it is draining beyond charging capacity. RR

1277 here. Joined Oct. '06.

Congratulations, Jeff. Where did you land your new job? RR

Perhaps, but it has given me 162,000 miles without a hiccup (dino oil too). Doesn't burn any oil (had to add a smidge after a long run at 90 MPH - main tank and a 5 gal aux tank). The Kia/Hyundai filter is intriguing though. Will look for it next time. RR

Fram PH6017 is available at Wallyworld and works well. RR