I watch this video the other day and I got to thinking of an old post some years back.
I think that many of us old timers have techniques that are more reflex then we or I can explain and put into words.
My son does not enjoy a touring bike period. He is very much a technical rider and simply does not the like weight and slow response of the setups touring rider enjoy.
The 2 MKll we ran were different then stock setups up front. The 91 was the most difficult for me to get to my liking and so I used springs and shims along with air pressure to hit my marks.
Before doing so I found the 91 to unpredictable, for me. I like a quick ride and I enjoy the end of the line the most, standing her up again. So some years ago I noted in a post I favor the rear brake leaning in to, then during I count on ratio and throttle for pulling it thru and maintain my predicted line. But why the rear and not the front brake?
Rowling mass and momentum (s) this is where touring bikes are different then the sport bikes in a lean. If I slip my rear wheel, I simply keep looking thru, if I slip my front I'm in trouble. I have of course needed to use the front brake at times to slow the energy up front but, if you are running linked brakes then that rarely an issue. Of course if you are pointing your right knee the peddle is a hard reach but that thru the curve not before. Thru the curve we have ratio and throttle to adjust our leans, something we have in common with sport bikes because that's the physics.
Exploring the rear brake a bit further: picking a line then using the rear we tend to stretch the bike out, making it tighter. Why, all the joints, bearings and bushings. Next up is the rake. These front fork on this kind of rake with the long reach add a hard to understand added flex. Setting your bike for a line thru is more time and effort. That spells a slower speed thru it. I think that is acceptable for a touring bike. Remember we are down shifting and braking with a long reach more weight and more forward moving mass so inertia and that is all the moving parts taking time to sync up.
Progressive as in the type of coil are slower acting than non progressive, non progressive are more trying on a touring bike.
Tire pressure matters. We tend to max them on touring bikes for tire life. But have any tried to lower that till you find a sweet spot. Lower tire changes the patch contact area, also reduce vibration throughout the fork, so it acts as a damper.
Tire selection. I enjoy sticky vs. twice the tire life or what ever that turns out to be. Same for my cars, not worth the savings in my way of thinking.
Genll all I know is what i see, I'd rather ride ahead or keep them far enough ahead that I don't see them pushing and scraping thru too close to the yellow/white lines like their heads are replaceable. My Cade is the heaviest I've ridden and shes solid when on her line, but I would not keep up with a MKl or ll. Trying to would make a fool of me, so I make up for the gap by beating it to the next curve;) snooker move
Anyways I'd enjoy reading the clubs thoughts and tips for tour riding.