Jump to content

Papa Fred

Supporting Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


33 Excellent

About Papa Fred

  • Birthday 02/08/1954

Personal Information

  • Name
    Fred Barnett


  • Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada


  • City


  • State/Province


  • Home Country


  • Bike Year and Model
    2000 Royal Star Venture

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Add me to the "probably brake fluid boiling" club. Couple of years ago, I spent some quality time in a large parking lot working on basic ideas from Motorman Paladino's playbook I've practiced over the years.... low-speed stuff in the friction zone with light rear brake..u turns, tighter u turns, circles, high speed panic stops etc. After a steady 5 minute session doing The Intersection turns, the rear brake took a holiday. No pedal feel and no brake. I let the bike sit for a few minutes then did a few brake-free trips around the parking lot. Brake came back, and I flushed the brake line and Master when I got home. Fresh, clear fluid makes for happy brakes (and clutch).
  2. Thanks for the tip on that Prestone rad cleaner, Ben. I've been toying with the idea of a flush and fill event for some time now as my fan seems to be coming on in stop & go traffic a lot more often than last year. Might be able to blame it on Climate Change, but the rad cleaner is somewhere simple to start. 👍
  3. Gas leaking on the engine seemed kind of interesting while it was leaking. To put it another way, it was pretty much my focus once I discovered it.
  4. After a few days and several hundred miles, The Toy looks like it's keeping the gas where it belongs. I tried a bit more aggressive pulling on the brass fuel nipple at the petcock, and with the aid of a bright light and a pair of padded channel-locks I noticed a slight movement in the tube when I twisted it. It came out with remarkably little effort. The light pressure I was applying with just my fingers in earlier tests didn't show any movement, but with a good grip on the tube, it basically pulled right out. Hats off to everyone who had suggested the fuel nipple as the culprit, and my apologies for not working that thru earlier. Here's my "fix"... I scrubbed the brass tube with Scotchbrite to clean it up, likewise the socket on the petcock. I applied a light smear of JB Weld to the tube and pushed/tapped it into place. The JB Weld squeezed out around the barrel of the tube to form a seal. ( it looks like an O-ring around the base of the tube.) Let it set overnight before attaching the fuel hose..using a single spring clamp (😉)..and hit the road. I checked it every time I stopped after short or long rides over the next few days, and as of this morning everything is still dry. Thanks to all for weighing in, and I look forward to not talking about this again. Cheers...
  5. Our typically polite Canehdian way to describe a royal PITA! 😏 😎 I'll be looking for less rigid gas friendly hose tomoro...hopefully have a positive result to share.
  6. Thanks for those points, Patch. I figured the pump pressure didn't really factor into the fuel seeping out at the petcock, unless it was somehow allowing some sort of back-pressure to make its way up the line. I double (triple?) checked the petcock itself to eliminate it as the problem..zero leakage from around the tank seal or the fuel nipple into the petcock ( I've seen a few posts about those coming loose). As for the tubing itself, I've got a pre-formed piece of plastic tubing with a 90 degree bend that slips over the fuel line and curves it from the nipple inboard under the tank. From there the line takes a gentle turn toward the back. Your mention of the tubing size got me thinking, however. When I originally replaced the line a cpl years back, I probably used the old line as a guess for the new tubing. Being old and worn out, it was likely a bit larger ID than required. I'll measure the fuel nipple and get something that needs to stretch a bit to slip on. That way the spring clamp is just insurance, not defence. Thanks for the memory jog... Cheers
  7. Thanks for the reply Carl... When I pull the gas line off, there isn't any fuel coming from the petcock itself... either around the seal to the tank, or the outlet...with the fuel valve shut. It only weeps out around the hose when in use. If I shut the fuel off and let the bike run for a couple of minutes to use the gas in the line, or it sits overnight and cools down, there is no leak. I'll be doing a bit more research today into the fuel line I'm using. Maybe it's a simple solution. 🤞
  8. Looking for ideas here on a possible cause of fuel leaking (seeping) past the clamps on the fuel line at the petcock on my 2000 RSV. I replaced the old line a couple of years back and till a few weeks ago didn't really notice any issues. What got my attention was the fuel stain on the front left cylinder fins and the dog-bone. When parked for a short time I have been leaving the fuel on...when stopped for the day the fuel is off. Recently, when parked with the fuel on or off, gas is weeping out past the clamp. Thinking the hose I replaced was a cheap grade or something, I replaced it with a more rigid hose from the petcock back to the filter (in-line under the seat..installed a couple of years ago) then from the filter down to the OEM pump. The pump appears and sounds to be working fine. I've tried regular screw clamps, the spring-type clamps, a type of fuel injection line clamp...all with no success at stopping the leak. I tried tightening down a clamp on a spare piece of the new hose as well as the one I pulled off. Both seem to distort slightly when under clamp pressure, and I got to thinking that I may have created the problem by using a heavier hose than I need. The new hose is a good snug fit over the flare on the gas pipe coming out of the petcock, so I figured a clamp would be insurance. I'll mention here that I pulled the hose off the petcock to see if the petcock was leaking. Bone dry when turned off. Also, the vent line at the top of the tank is clear...blew compressed air thru with no restriction. I noticed a couple of times when I removed the fuel line there was enough pressure in the line to blow gas out of the hose. I thought that some type of back pressure in the carbs was forcing the gas back up the lines, but with the pump being effectively closed when the power is off, that seems odd if even possible. Anybody have any ideas , or experience, with this. I've noticed on other bikes the fuel line at the petcock is held in place by that simple spring clamp. Could it be as simple as installing a thin rubber tube instead of the heavy-duty stuff?? Thanks in advance, gang. It'll be interesting to see where this goes. Cheers...
  9. Dead mic update...we got our hands on an audio cable from a wrecked RSV, tested it, cleaned all contacts, bit of dielectric and installed it. Everything works as it should. Odd that one circuit in the old cable took a holiday. Gotta love Things Electrical. Cheers...
  10. Thanks for that....I'll pass it on. Any collection of 20 yr old wires is worth a look. I'll update this after the fairing "dive" is complete.
  11. Chasing a little mystery here. A friend of mine has a 2003 Midnight Venture with a dead microphone in the front audio socket (on the gas tank). His helmet audio and microphone work in the rear socket on his bike and both sockets on my bike (2000 RSV). We tested 3 helmets on both bikes. All helmets have audio and mic in both positions on my bike, but only the rear socket on his bike. When any helmet is plugged into the front socket of his bike, that helmet receives radio and passenger audio from the rear socket, or CB audio from another bike, but has no microphone transmission. We used a multi-meter to test continuity of the microphone pins in the socket, following a Clymer Service manual, and got continuity readings in all sockets. ( I tested my bike as well...similar readings to his.) He's planning on splitting the fairing to get a look at the other end of the audio cable and whatever it's plugged into, and I'm wondering if anyone here has experienced this odd failure and has ideas on what else to look for. Cheers...
  12. You may have already tried this, but I'll pass it on regardless. Occasionally, my bike (2nd Gen RSV) will crank as usual with no fire. Everything seems to work as far as the dash and other lights, and whether it's been sitting for days, or just long enough to put in gas....it'll crank like normal but won't start. If I turn the key fully "off" then back on it'll fire. Sometimes just holding the key and giving it the slightest twist, and I do mean Slightest...it'll fire. I first experienced this a couple of years ago and working the theory that it was the contacts in the switch, I removed the switch and cleaned them up. I don't recall having the problem last year, but it has happened a couple of times this year, so last weekend I pulled the ignition and dressed the contacts again. Only ridden once since then, and the bike started with no drama. Time will tell for how long.
  13. Hi Dave... I just saw the updates on the shock topic. I installed the rebuilt shock at the beginning of April...about 1500 miles on it to date. Still clean and dry and doing what it's supposed to do. I had sent you my old shock after swapping in the new one, and haven't heard whether or not it actually got to you. It would have arrived by the 2nd week in April, so if you did get it that might be your "spare". Cheers...
  14. We do what we can to get where we're going. Looking forward to meeting you at George's Kitchen across from the Timmy's this summer. Stay well.
  15. As a counterpoint to the above posts, but definitely not to dismiss them, I use that same jack in your 2nd link (albeit under a different name from Princess Auto (Canada)). It's a very useful and small tool for working on the bike, and in my opinion, for what I use it for, the jack with the 2 frame saddles is a more useful jack. The saddles line up on an ideal spot on the frame rails. It seems to me that a flat platform style of jack would require an adapter to get around the various bits of mechanicals that extend below the frame. With those saddles lined up, you can lift the bike just far enough off the floor to take the weight off the rear shock, making it very stable for any general maintenance or gremlin hunting... or hoist it up to clear the tires. You can move the jack fore and aft under the bike, clearing either front or rear tire depending on jack placement. I have had the front high enough on the jack to pull out the front tire, stabilizing the bike with a couple of jack stands under the lower bar of the rear crash bars. Sliding the jack a bit to the rear of the frame, lifting the bike to get the front tire planted on the floor, and with a little creativity in removing saddlebags, bag bars, and hitch frame parts, the rear wheel will come out as well. Would I have used a different setup if I had another jack? Absolutely. But having one jack at my disposal when I installed a VMax pumpkin last year meant using what I had at hand to get that rear wheel out. If your workshop space is a bit snug, it's an inexpensive addition to the garage and it works. If room isn't an issue, get what you think you need.
  • Create New...