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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    Inside and out Actually, this is a good time to double check the tightness of all the bolts. The bolts along the rear fender rail that support the trunk are susceptible as are the bolts up underneath the trunk. Blue loctite is your friend. Also, raising links if you are so inclined (pun intended). RR
  2. RedRider
    Wow, Eck. Does that connector look familiar - in all the melted glory. Have installed a bypass relay along with replacing the connector and have had several years and several thousand miles of trouble free starting. RR
  3. RedRider
    Had a similar problem hit my bike a couple of years ago. Under the tank, in the left wireway, there is a pink (or red) connector with two conductors. This goes from somewhere back at the battery box to the ignition switch. From looking at the repair manual wiring diagram, it appears the conductors are Red and Br/L (whatever L stands for). In the diagram, it is shown in the dotted box around the ignition switch. This connector had basically melted and was making intermittent connection. It finally failed in downtown Chicago at a gas station (not a good place to be). Easy to find once you pull your tank. Replaced it with a couple of spade terminals and it has ran fine for 30 or 40k miles since. Hope that is all this is. It is cheap and easy to fix once identified. RR
  4. RedRider
    Still warmer than your ride last year. RR
  5. RedRider
    Nice. RR
  6. RedRider
    SB, Assuming it is Shawnee, OK you are starting from, you should hit Kansas City about lunch time. I HIGHLY recommend stopping at Arthur Bryant's BBQ. There are two locations. Arthur Bryant's Barbeque · (816) 231-1123 1727 Brooklyn Ave · Kansas City Arthur Bryant's Barbeque · (816) 414-7474 3200 Ameristar Dr · Kansas City Their brisket is to die for. Travel safely. Clear skies and sunny thru Saturday up here. RR
  7. RedRider
    Steve, Thanks for the writeup. Great idea on the Ride Report section. RR
  8. RedRider
    Wow, Don. I thought it was going to be something really bad - like he bought a Harley. RR
  9. RedRider
    ScooterBob, Looks to be sunny and low/mid 50's up here for the next few days. Ride safely. RR
  10. RedRider
    To check the small jet holes, I use the smallest string from my son's guitar (yes, a broken string that he replaced - I'm not taking apart his guitar). It is stiff enough to get thru the crude and flexible enough to work with. RR
  11. RedRider
    FYI to those considering the modulator - they don't work with HID headlights. RR
  12. RedRider
    What a great idea!! Something else to add into the shop in all my free time. RR
  13. RedRider
    For future reference, don't ever run the D404s on the Venture (especially the rear). Too light of a tire for the RSV. Avon Venom, Dunlop E3, and Michelin Commander are the general choices. RR
  14. RedRider
    Are you looking to upgrade the aesthetics or the amount of light being thrown out? RR
  15. RedRider
    That sound is your Wing wanting to be a Ducati. RR
  16. RedRider
    Ride safely and have a great time. RR
  17. RedRider
  18. RedRider
    Trailer a Venture??????? What's that?? RR
  19. RedRider
    Could be the starter solenoid. Had mine go bad early on. Only real problem I have ever had with this bike. And, only time left stranded. Fortunately, I was in my driveway. RR
  20. RedRider
    For $5 extra, you should patronize your dealer (if they are a decent dealer). They stay alive with part sales. Spend a little time getting to know the part manager and see if they will meet or get close to the internet pricing. You might be surprised and be able to keep you money 'in the family'. It has worked for me. RR
  21. RedRider
    Do you have the repair manual? There is a diagram in there of the starting circuit. There is also a trouble shooting guide. What has happened is something has shorted to ground, bypassing the start push button (which closes the circuit to ground). Start at the starter relay and work your way forward. You will find it. It isn't difficult, just time consuming. Did this with a friend's 2nd Gen when he removed the cassette deck and messed up some wiring. RR
  22. RedRider
    Well done Twigg. You signed up for the MN1000 out of Minnehappiness? Mid-June. Be a great warmup for the BL6. RR
  23. RedRider
    We darn well better see a post from TDsTD in this tread!!! RR
  24. RedRider
    OH boy. You are in for some fun. First, get a role of masking tape and a Sharpie. Most of the connections are either already marked or with unique connector shapes. However, it will make your life easier if you mark everything with big letters. Remove outer fairing and windscreen (assume you have already done that). Remove the headlight and mating bracket. Start marking and disconnecting all the wiring. Pay attention to the routing of the cables. Include another masking tape label on a cable with routing notes if you feel the need. Remove the center frame with the audio control. There should be 2 nuts to remove to take the inner faring off at this point. This was done by memory so a couple of steps may be omitted/added. I recall the first time I just started taking it apart and labeling everything. It went back together fine. RR PS. Good time to get any fork work done. Also, steering head bearings (repack, replace, and/or reset).
  25. RedRider
    I use a 5 gal TourTank with the bung on the bottom - also T'd into the fuel line. I turn off the main tank petcock and run the TT until empty - it completely empties. Then turn on the main tank so my fuel gauge is operational. I believe I have the only TT that is accurate. Ordered a 5 gallon unit and it take right at 5 gallons to fill it. Not typical (as strange as that would seem). I never tried to backfill the main tank. However, the petcock is easier to get at on the 2nd Gen than the first (IIRC). RR
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