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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    I often do that too. Bought 12 spot muffin tins to keep nuts and bolts in with each opening labelled. The tins are teflon coated. Write what's in each hole with a sharpie. When done, a quick shot of brake cleaner and it all wipes clean. Just don't try to bake muffins with it afterwards. I've taken off the rear wheel so often I wasn't as careful as usual. In the end, I had it on right. Was just questioning it since the bearing went out. This was caused by something else (still investigating, but it wasn't this spacer). Just trying to cover all the bases. RR
  2. RedRider
    Thought so. Thanks. RR
  3. RedRider
    Mid-70s Pioneer SX-950 in my shop. Traded an old (but good) turntable for it. When I got married, found my wife had one too. We certainly didn't need two turntables gathering dust. It completely rocks. Smoked a set of Bose qube speakers with it (Ted Nugent - Stranglehold IIRC). Now I behave. RR
  4. RedRider
    Which way does this spacer go on the rear wheel? This spacer goes against the rear wheel bearing and is the seal surface the seal rides against. There is a raised shoulder on one side while the other is flat. Pictures of both are attached. I am assuming the raised part goes against the bearing since it is the same diameter are the inner race. And yes, those are the balls from the rear wheel bearing. Not good. RR
  5. RedRider
    Forgot about putting the cups in the freezer. That helps too. RR
  6. RedRider
    The only time you will buy another seat after owning an RDL is if you get another bike. Best money spent on the Venture (outside of the Carbon1 lift adapter with legs). RR
  7. RedRider
    I use one. It helps when you are spending time in traffic where the cruise control wouldn't. Also, if you are traveling out west, the cruise will set at a maximum of 80 MPH (GPS speed). Sometimes, you want to go a little faster for long periods of time. RR
  8. RedRider
    Pick, Changing the neck bearings is a real PITA. However, it can be done. I did it last winter. Once you completely remove the front fairing, and remove the front forks, and then take off the steering stem, you have access to the bearings. The top cup (outer ring) is fairly easy to remove by using a puller or a long drift. The bottom one is a real doozy. There are reliefs in the backing shoulder that should allow you to use a long drift to punch it out. Good luck with that. The Dremel is the tool of choice with the lower cup. Just grind out a section and remove it. Make sure to smooth out any burrs left on the shoulder that will prevent the replacement brg cup from fully seating. Keep the old cutup bearing cup as a driver. When reinstalling the new cups, get a long threaded rod, a couple of appropriately sized nuts, and a selection of washers large enough to cover the cup OD. Place the rod thru the steering neck with a washer/nut combo on the top cup front face and then place an appropriately sized washer and nut on the bottom - using the old cup as a driver. You will likely need a stackup of washers to prevent the large washer from bending. Tighten the nuts until you are sure the cups are seated. Check with a sharp dental/mechanical pick to make sure they are completely seated against the mounting shoulders. DO NOT USE THE BEARING CONE (inner race with rollers) TO PRESS IN THE CUPS - THIS WILL DAMAGE THE RACES. When you reassemble and go to set the bearing preload, make sure to rotate the steering neck back and forth while tightening. This straightens the tapered rollers on the races so you will get a true reading. If you don't do this, you will end up with loose bearings. When you are done setting the bearing preload (it is initially set with a higher torque, then backed off, then retightened to a lower torque for the final set), move the neck back and forth some more and recheck the tightening torque on the nut. And yes, I used to be an Application Engineer at Timken Bearing. While you have the front end off, it is a good time for upgrading the front springs to Progressives, replacing fork seals and fluid, and upgrading your brake lines to stainless steel. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. RR
  9. RedRider
    This is the real symptom of the 'whining' clutch. Repeat as necessary to get it to stop. RR
  10. RedRider
    +2 on LD Comfort. Long sleeve shirt, wetted, under your NON-AIR riding jacket. Keep it zipped up. When you need some cooling, stick your arms out and let your sleeves fill up with air. The water evaporating off your sleeves will give a welcome chill and keep you cool for several hours. If you are riding fairly long distances with an air jacket and pants, dehydration can be a problem. Besides, in really hot weather, it feels like riding in a blast furnace. Have never used the cooling wrap. Need to score one of those and try it out. RR
  11. RedRider
    Think you hit the nail on the head - nice and shiny. That's all. RR
  12. RedRider
    +1 on the HF vacuum bleeder. Installed SS front lines and used the HF unit to fill and bleed the lines. Lickety split - it was done with no air in the line. Now I need to do the rear brake. RR
  13. RedRider
    I would be honored to get first shot. My son lives in Austin and can help if it comes to that. I am a mere waif compared to you. 6'4" with 34 inseam. RR
  14. RedRider
    You got a great buy on that. Let me know if it doesn't live up to your expectations. I may be interested in taking it off your hands. Might even throw in a trade for another 2008 KLR with a Sargent seat (and bar risers, peg lowering, raising links - I'm tall). Enjoy. RR
  15. RedRider
    While few of you knew Curt (he rode a Honda ST), I wanted to pass along this tragic news. Curt was a fellow LD competitor and a friend. He was one of the guys that picked my Venture off me when I went down on gravel in last year's MN1000 rally. He didn't even take a picture first or laugh at me afterwards (even though it was deserved). Curt Gran died Sunday morning as a result of a motorcycle accident that occurred Saturday night outside Minot, ND. He was participating in the MN1000 Long Distance Rally and ran into a storm cell with high winds. Per the local LEO, the wind appeared to have pushed him into the path of a pickup pulling a horse trailer. Curt was full ATGATT and a very experienced LD rider. He took 5th in the 2011 IBR and several trophies in regional rallies. Curt was also the developer/founder of the Fuzeblock auxiliary fuse block product/company. He married Cindy within the last year. Curt was a great guy and a good friend to be around. He will be missed by all who knew him. Godspeed Curt. He is now sitting at God's Waffle House in the sky, sharing smothered hash browns and a Dr. Pepper with Eddie James. Damn, Damn, Damn, this hurts!!! He was really one of the really good guys. Please include Cindy and the rest of Curt's family and friends in your prayers. RR
  16. RedRider
    What are you wanting to do? Specifically, how many miles are you wanting to do comfortably in a day? From my experience: Up to 200 miles in a day - stock 200-300 - add a pad, beads, or sheepskin 300-500 - Butler mod (and possibly a pad, beads, or sheepskin) 500-1000+ - Russell Day Long Just did 1800+ miles in 36 hours with a RDL. Total for the weekend was 2450 Friday to Sunday. Butt is ready for more but the brain needs sleep and the checkbook (and the boss) needs work. As always with seats, YMMV. RR
  17. RedRider
    Fantastic bikes. Be careful with the 2006/07 (IIRC) 1200GS with the servo assist ABS. BMW had some issues with the servos on these. The servo assist (EVO) on the 1150's worked well. Be careful though, the brakes are VERY effective. The GS' are a solid bike with lots of aftermarket support. It is a completely different ride than a Venture. Upright seating position, less wind protection, gobs of power, handles like on rails, good gas mileage, reliable. Can carry a lot of stuff with a fairly high GVWR. Large stator output to run lots of extras. Been looking for one myself. Ridden my Dad's a few times and it is a wonderful ride. RR
  18. RedRider
    Just a slight clarification to this post - you don't need any 'IBA qualified' witnesses for a SS1000. That is only needed for the more extreme rides. Witnesses for the SS1000 can be anyone including your spouse/friend/mailman/gas jockey at the local station. The only qualification is they must allow being contacted to verify the validity of their witnessing. The requirements are spelled out in the IB website. RR
  19. RedRider
    I've been watching this thread seeing if there would be a solution for a 2nd Gen. I am interested. RR
  20. RedRider
    Keep your eye on Woot.com. Didn't see this post yesterday. They had a nice camera for about $120. Cameras come up every second week or so. Some are refurbs, some are last years model. All end up being a good deal. RR
  21. RedRider
    Naah, just not the right tire for the application. To be fair, the tire didn't 'fail', it wore out. I was not diligent about checking it since it only had about 4000 miles on it. The previous tire had been an Avon that I got 16000 miles. RR
  22. RedRider
    The blowout D404 had Dynabeads. RR
  23. RedRider
    Classic case of incorrect ergometrics. Risers will likely take care of it. If not, then on to custom Flanders bars. With the standard risers, you can use the OEM cables. May have to reroute some of them, but they will fit. RR
  24. RedRider
    The windjammer is in good shape, I just don't like it ruining the beautiful lines of the MG. Will be taking it off. However, with the comments earlier, I will likely be a little more gentle taking it off than I otherwise would have been. RR
  25. RedRider
    At least on a 2nd Gen, the D404 is too light a tire. NEVER, NEVER run a D404 on a 2nd Gen. Ran 2 sets (both were emergency installs while on a trip). Never got over 5000 miles and one had a blowout (on a twisty 2 lane WV highway - while pulling a trailer) at about 45 mph. Avon, Michelin, or Elite3's only on my ride. YMMV RR
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