RedRider
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Everything posted by RedRider
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Two ways to fix this, really three but I am not returning it to complete stock. 1st is to increase caliper bore area and 2nd is to reduce master bore area. Not sure which way to go. On this I may go both ways and see which one I like. Gary, You are having too much fun. Wish I had time to experiment with things like this. Look forward to seeing your results. RR -
Ahhh, forgot about that. RR
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Gary, Curious about the need for additional rear brake. Mind you, I am a 2nd Gen'er. On the 2nd Gen, the rear brakes will lock up in a heart beat. Don't see where adding braking capacity on the rear will actually help stop any faster. It seems the limiting factor is the friction between the tire and the roadway, not between the caliper and the rotor. RR
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You interested in selling the R1's? RR
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Not generally a big fan of fancy paint jobs - but this is truly beautiful. Well done. RR
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Take me with you. RR
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I hope that map would only be one state (or preferably, no state). Ask Santa for some upgraded riding gear so you won't leave any more skin around. RR
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On the first Gen (2007 and previous) they often have trouble with the cam chain tensioner (called a Dohickey in KLR-speak). The tensioner spring weakens and/or the dohickey just breaks. A replacement is under $100 (tensioner and spring) and you can get the tools required from both KLR websites. They have traveling Doo-Tools. Just ask the seller if the Doo has been done. He will know what you mean. If it hasn't been done, it can sound like a handful of marbles in the engine (if the stock doo is failing/dead). There are other minor things that are easy to fix/upgrade just like with any bike. On the 2008+ 2nd gen models - Early version of the 2008 models has a poor oil ring design and they burned oil. Some as much as a qt per 1000 miles. This can be fixed by either changing out the ring with the newer design or upgrading to a 685 kit. Neither is a simple repair. The 2008s also had a couple of recalls. First was for loose muffler bolts and the second was for rerouting/covering the wire harness. There were a couple of places the wiring harness would rub and cause a grounding problem. Other than that, they are pretty bullet proof. The seat leaves much to be desired (especially the 1st Gen) but there are several aftermarket seats available and cheap Walmart (ATV) seat pads that fit. If you are going to be doing any serious highway miles or some gnarly trails, you will do well to get a fork brace ($120 IIRC) and possibly change the front fender to an inexpensive Acerbis or KTM fender. Then there is the T-Mod, the 22cent mod, the ThermoBob, drilling the slide, $2 cruise control, defenderization, deCalifornication (removing the CA mandated charcoal canister), Scott oilers, windshield mods, Nerf bars, shark fins, skid plates, oil cooler guard, headlight guard, panniers and racks, tool tubes,......., the list goes on and on (just like with any bike). None of these are necessary. You will have nothing but smiles with this simple bike. I have a 2008 (no oil problem) and have done most of these mods myself (still need to do the T-Mod and oiler). Get about 45-50 mpg and can run highway speeds for hours on end (although that is not the KLR's strength). For pounding around country roads, gravel roads, and fire trails it is great. They are a pack mule. GVWR is something like 400-450 lbs. Even with an oversized guy like myself it still leaves 150+ lbs of capacity for carrying stuff. Great for motocamping. Just be prepared to be made fun of for being cheap. KLR owners are known to use Walmart as our farkle store. Some have been accused of dumpster diving behind dealers for old tires that still had a few miles left. RR
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I've had one for a couple of years. Most fun bike I own. Reliable as an anvil and really easy to work on. Doesn't do anything exceptionally well, but does everything 'good enough'. Accessories are cheap and plentiful. Will be setting up mine this winter for my Alaska trip next year. Are you looking to buy new or used? There are different things to look for 1985-2007, and 2008+. RR
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wifes honda shadow 1100 problem...ideas please
RedRider replied to painterman67's topic in General Tech Talk
http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/ Been working on my brother's Shadow and this forum has been helpful. Post up and see what they say. Sounds like a rectifier to me. RR -
New sounds coming from front end.What is it?
RedRider replied to muaymendez1's topic in Watering Hole
The klunk is possibly the steering head bearings being loose. As for the noise going into a curve - tires. I suspect the center of the tire is squared off from doing a lot of straight line. Once the tire achieves this state, they whine when they go around corners. RR -
Maintenance Cost???
RedRider replied to spyderhead's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
On a RSTD it's not that hard since you don't have the faring. On a RSV, it is a very time consuming affair since you have to pull the inner faring which means you have to disconnect all the electrics. PITA. $900 is a crock!! I did my bearings at 60k miles and they were still full of grease. They did need tightening, but otherwise fine. YMMV. RR -
I like to ride long distances, but I think I would become claustrophobic in that tunnel under the Atlantic (it is done isn't it?). RR
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Checked this out and the mechanism cover is interchangeable to each side. Took the one out of my left (clutch) side and put it on the right (throttle) side. Think I got that right this time. I now need the left side cover. RR
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There was a group of riders last year that did an Iron Butt Saddle Sore 1000 on the TT route. Something like 27 laps. It was an experience of a lifetime. This video shows why the TT race is the greatest motorcycle race in the world. Amazing stones on those riders. If they're not on the edge, they are too slow. RR
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Yup, they are all like this. So is my KLR. The only bikes I have seen that are accurate are BMWs. Oh, and my 1981 Kawasaki KZ440 is dead nuts up to about 70. It won't go any faster than that with my fat butt on it. You can use a Speed-O-Healer to correct the speedometer. I believe there have been a few on here that have done this - including our fearless leader. Fortunately, the incorrect reading is high. So if you are indicating 70, you are really only doing about 63-64. RR
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Ummm, yeah, right side (throttle). I must have been standing at the front of the bike when I opened the saddle bag..Yeah, that it. RR
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I was getting some stuff from my right (throttle side) saddle bag and noticed the black plastic cover over the internal mechanism was missing. You would think I would notice that falling off, but have no idea when or where it fell off (it wasn't in the bag). Does anybody have a trashed (or a good one) saddle bag that might have this cover available? RR
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The snow coming tomorrow may have made that decision for you anyway. Get better soon. RR
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Just let your neighbors launch some fireworks and you will get a new roof ... and a new house out of it. RR
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The ice riders around here use the Hippohands. Wear a pair of gloves down inside them and your hands will stay toasty. If you want more heat, throw a couple of chemical hand warmers in there. RR
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Here is the HF lift in action. Brother sent his broken bike to me to fix. Think it may be terminal. The engine won't rotate more than about 20 degrees before it hits a hard stop. If anyone is going to use a HF lift for your Venture, make sure you have someone else around to help. It isn't wide enough to get the side stand down to support it while you strap it on. Some one will need to hold the bike upright while the helper straps it to the deck. RR
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Yup, that's the one. RR
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I really like this. Haven't seen one before. RR
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Same coupon is in the Oct Rider magazine. Just bought this lift last weekend and put it together last night. Sure will be nice for the winter project bikes. One word of warning - check all the bolts and tighten them! However, not sure I will even use it for the Venture. The CarbonOne lift adapter with legs makes a very sturdy platform to work on. Just wish the legs were about 2 inches longer so I could get the rear wheel out. RR