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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    Cool. So have you transplanted a complete Vmax engine into your first gen or just swapped in heads, carbs, V boost etc? Wouldn't mind doing something similar with the RSTD at some point. RSTDdog
  2. RSTDdog
    The only issue I have seen with AGM batteries, regardless of brand, is if they discharge below 10 volts they are near impossible to recover back to full or recover at all. I have had a New AGM battery left hooked up in a PWC that sat for 6 months drop below 10 volts and was not able to get it to charge back up. This has happened on more than one occasion on a variety of brands. I would definitely keep a battery tender on it and keep it disconnected if it sits over the winter, etc. I have been able to recover many a wet cell battery. I am a fan of the Yuasa MF batteries that came stock in our Yamahas as well as many other products. They come with the premeasured acid pack. Service it, seal it and charge it before installation. Don't need maintenance after that. Good find on the battery price with shipping included. RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    Its a tough bike to beat on looks. I particularly like the symmetry of the V4 design and the fact the bike looks great from either side. Most V twin bikes look great on the right side but the left side always looks like something is missing or left off. So if your getting grief from your V twin buddies about displacement you can always ask them So-What happened to the pipes on the left side of your bike?? Just be confident in the fact that if your inclined to, you can still be riding that bike with the original engine with 100K+ on the odmeter. In the end after all the talk, its the riding that matters. RSTDdog
  4. RSTDdog
    Well its in the Attic over the garage. Its on 2X4 s spanning across 4 rafters. Yes it has a catch pan with an overflow drain in 1" PVC. If it did have a leak or catastrophic failure that exceeded the catch pan, worse case damage would be garage ceiling drywall. With the rafter direction its possible water could flow back toward the laundry room which is tile floor, so drywall would be the only issue there. If I want to be real anal I could flash the area between the rafters beneath the heater to ensure the water diverts over the garage only. I'm not overly concerned about it. The original Water heater was a Ruud, lasted 8 years, with 6 of those on well water. Been on City Water here Since 2009. I assume the City water will be beeter than the well in terms of the heater longevity. Cost for Water/sewer infrastructure in Cape Coral was astronomical. Google it if your so inclined. Bought the Cheap 40 gallon medium GE from Home Depot. Its Manufactured by RHEEM and has a 6 year warranty. I'm with Ruffy on this one. The medium height units are only 19 3/4 wide and fits right up through the attic hatch. RSTDdog
  5. RSTDdog
    Thank You for all the input and responses. Just back in from working. Don't have enough spaces in the panel for a Large tankless (don't have enough money either). Replaced it with another conventional 40 gallon heater. I did have room and moved it into the attic though. Since my attic is easliy 120 degrees or more probably 10 months out of the year, I figure up there it may not run as much. It will still have to heat water for showers and laundry but it may not have to come on to keep it hot while not in use. Thats my theory any way. Also frees up a nice space for my 60 gallon Air Compressor and you jsut can't put a value on that. I noticed somone said they ( or someone they know) saved $50.00 a month switching to tankless. Thats $600.00 a year. The estimated operating cost posted on the heater I just bought is only $508.00 a year. assuming the basis for that is similar to my usage, If I unplugged it and took cold showers I could only save 42.00 a month. So how much do I really save with a tankless? All things being equal, what uses more energy taking a twenty minute shower at 2 gallons per minute (40 gallons of HW)? The tankless units rated for that use (say to maintain 130F) are in the neighborhood of 16KW I think. So 20 minutes at 16 KW is roughly equivalent to one hour at 5KW. I'll have another 40 gallons in one hour. I'm not sure the above is correct, but it seems you have to do a lot of math to figure out if you really save with a tankless. It seems savings are use/user dependent. If I put a timer on my conventional WH to run 1hour in the morning for showers and 1 hour before dinner for the dishwasher, I 'm only doing 9 kw a day assuming it needs the entire hour to heat the tank up. Thanks again for all the info. Very informative. RSTDdog
  6. RSTDdog
    Yeah not that lucky, the pop off valve is fine. WH cabinet is full of water when you take the access panels off. It leaked a little bit a year ago and fixed itself. The tank less has the benfit of allowing me to put my air compressor where the current unit is. WH is right next to the breaker panel so upgrading for a tankless would be easy. Not sure tankless is in the budget though, even if the payback is there. Relocating HWH to the attic would provide the same space savings as tankless but at lower cost. Working in the attic in Florida anytime between now and November is another matter. Thanks for the input everyone.
  7. RSTDdog
    Found HWH leaking in the garage this morning. Its the original from the house and 7 years old. Single element 40 gallon electric. Supplies sufficient hot water for our needs (2 adults only) Any options that would provide any real savings in electricity, or just go out and buy the same type?? Thanks
  8. RSTDdog
    At the top of Mt Washington, NH at the end of the Auto Road on 7-18-2011. Ontario Plates. Anyone here?? RSTDdog
  9. RSTDdog
    Probably not the same. Mine looks like this. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=mityvac&hft_adv=10041&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=mityvac&utm_campaign=SubBrands%20-%20Exact Has multiple uses, testing vacumm switches, vacuum breakers , etc. For this basically you use it first to empty all the dirty fluid from the reservoir (remove lid and suck it out). Then refill reservoir with clean fluid. Then attach hose to bleeder, other end of hose to that container thats pictured and then the hose to the might vac. Mityvac induces vacuum on the container, crack the bleeder, draw the fluid through. Close bleeder and Periodically stop and refill reservoir to keep it from sucking air and repeat. After it runs nothing but clean fluid, I always do a couple manual pump and bleeds. RSTDdog
  10. RSTDdog
    Nope You had spelled right the first time- bear. I was just having fun with it. If you spell it the other way, well lets just say that wouldn't be pretty.... Brake fluid is typically every two years. My bike was fours years old when I did it. Don't know if the PO had done it or not but I doubt it. I change it when it starts turning from clear to light brown. Clutch fluid gets dark faster, so I change it more often than the brake fluid. The brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, leave it unchanged long enough and it gets that gell and crystals in it. I use a mighty vac to bleed and flush brakes, but I have read that others like the speed bleeders. I haven't used those so can't comment. Just don't forget to cover those paintd parts before you start. RSTDdog
  11. RSTDdog
    You don't have to say please, I had a beer with you while reading it. Very Good write up. Thanks for taking the time! In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid. RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    Liked it and posted to my wife's facebook. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    This has not only the RSTD Supplement but the main RSV manual as well. Itmes that apply to both are covered in the RSV manual. RSTDdog
  14. RSTDdog
    From the Yamaha service manual page 7-64 they say and I quote "use a floor chisel and a hammer to remove the race (they mean bearing) from the lower bracket (tree)" There is a anice line drawing of a chisel and hammer being applied to the lower bearing on the tree. If you don't believe me, there is a post in the RSTD forum with a link to download the manual. Its the RSTD supplement plus the main RSV manual. 63MB Here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=601159#post601159 No acrobat pro at home, but tomorrow I can attach just the couple pages from the manual. The service manual suggestion would work. You want a floor tile or similar chisel with a long slope to it and work evenly around. The better way IMO is to use a bearing splitter. This is a tool used to remove the roller bearing pressed onto the end of crankshafts typically found on Outboards. Two halves each with a semi-circular shape taper starting from a sharp edge and becoming thicker. it has two bolts through the ends you use to tighten the halves together and it gradually pushes the bearing off. On stubborn ones (on crankshafts) I have had to use a splitter in conjunction with a press and the blue wrench. Unlikely you will need to do this on a Lower triple tree bearing. You might be able to borrow rent one from Advanced Auto Parts or Auto Zone. First time seeing this. Hope its not too late. RSTDdog
  15. RSTDdog
    Picked up a set thru the dealer. Yamaha walked the parts guy thru where to find them on the Yamaha dealer access site. Dealer emailed me the pdf. Pretty nice I think. For anyone wondering about this I have attached the instructions. No part numbers for the OE hardware but the bolt size is there at least. Located the bolts at boltdepot.com in SS. RSTDdog
  16. RSTDdog
    How about the Freebird Bums of Steel competition? RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    $75.00. Could not find a smilie with Cajones so...... o o o )__( 00 RSTDdog- Who sez he's going to have to have Rick Butler make some adjustments to the seat for those......
  18. RSTDdog
    I'll even pay extra but I would like mine delivered via Einstein Express- When It positively, absolutely has to be there the day before yesterday!!
  19. RSTDdog
    Will you accept invisible assets? Say some Mortgage Backed Securities perhaps......
  20. RSTDdog
    Anyone have set of he mounting instrucitons they could scan and send me?? I know generally how they go, but would like to see the hardware set up. Thank You!! RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    If you are willing to spend some time pulling carbs on and off, changing jets and doing plug color checks, rejetting may buy you some fuel economy back. I would be concerned that simply returning to the stock jetting may be too lean with both an after market intake and exhaust. Too lean will result in burned valves and or pistons. Did you also raise/shim the needles in addition to larger jets? I'm not familiar with the Barrons Kits so not sure what they recommend/advise you to do. Most "jet kits" are close enough and tend to be on the rich side to prevent valve burning at the expense of some fuel economy. Jet Kits quality vary and may not have the same precision as an OE Mikuni Jet. Getting the ideal jetting when making changes from stock carburetion and exhaust takes time and patience. RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog
    The Venture Seats will fit an RSTD with a little work/fabrication. Its pretty easy if you own a drill press (not mandatory, but nice a regular drill will suffice) a hack saw, dremel and file. The mod is completely reversible. I explained in detail what is involved with mounting the rear seat here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60469 The Idea to modify the rear RSTD chrome bracket to accept the tab on the rear of the passenger Venture seat was from another post either here or on Delphi, but it didn't explain how big to make the hole or where to modify it so I spelled it out in the post linked. You also need the stock Venture bracket to mount the front of the Venture Passenger seat. The front seat is just a matter of some L brackets. My front brackets are based on the drawing on the Delphi Forum but I made them wider. Pictures of the front brackets required, as well as a comparison of the Venture and RSTD seats, are in my album but I haven't written it all up yet into one post. I haven't seen one complete post with all the information to do this mod in it. If anyone would like some RSTD seats for your Venture, we can make that happen for you too. I suppose I shouldn't post that I want a Trunk Mounting Bracket for my RSTD (I do want one actually) since apparently no one here will know what I'm looking for since it doesn't exist and it won't fit:stickpoke: RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    I am of the opinion that Pads are cheaper than rotors. The OE part is organic as are the standard FA123. Organic is easier on the rotor surface. The rear is prone to lock up anyway so I'm not convinced that on the rear the sintered pad is a big advantage. Just my thoughts. RSTDdog
  24. RSTDdog
    I see its one of the FAST Midnight Model Stars...... Air has less drag over Chrome......
  25. RSTDdog
    What Condition? What Price range? He's kind of in the middle of no where and mayhave to expand his horizons a little. Using google with site:craigslist.org following the search term CB900 Custom and CB 1000 Custom it seems nice unadulterated examples under $2000 are already sold. People wanting stronger money seem willing to wait. Nice unique bikes though. These are some of the closer ones (relatively speaking) I found. Several more if he's willing to go further. Various prices and condition. http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/2438703754.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/2448356136.html And further away http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/2444842792.html http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/mcy/2422184718.html
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