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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    I did not have the fender rack long. I liked the solo look, but my wife rides with me more often than not, and I just didn't want to keep switching back and forth. That being said, I have noticed on my bike (its a Midnight), you really have to stay on top of the chrome. There are parts on the bike like some of the brackets under the headlight and similar parts that have a chrome finish, but the bracket part the chrome is more like overspray and that gets rusty before the rest of it. Spots I can't reach to clean/polish frequently without dissassembly like the center of the chrome covers on the valve cover on my bike have some mild pitting. RSTDdog
  2. RSTDdog
    I Can't find any deals like this currently. Need a new rear tire. Anybody know of any?
  3. RSTDdog
    Agreed. Had a similar problem with the headlight circuit on a suzuki. 12volts up to the headlight connector, plug in the connector- O volts and no headlight. Turned out to be a bad connection in the headlight circuit through one of the multi plugs. By passed the connector and voila, headlights. Connector would pass voltage but not current. 55 watt driving light is almost 5 amps (~4.6) at 12V Can you put a an auxiliary 12volt power source directly to the wires leading to the light bar and if so do the lights work? Basically by pass the switch and other wiring from the battery. I have never owned or installed a light bar but i assume there are several connectors in the light bar itself? High resistance, (corrosion, dirty) where the bulb plugs in will do this. Starting from the light bar bulbs and working back wards, disconnect apply twelve volts to bulb, do they work? If yes. Connect the bulb, trace back to the very next connection, disconnect apply twelve volts. DO they work? If yes, keep going. at the point you apply 12 volts and the lamp(s) no longer lights, the bad connection is between there and the last time the bulbs lit up. Make sense? RSTDdog
  4. RSTDdog
    There's a line between your money's worth and your life's worth.... My dad always said never try to save money on tires and brakes.
  5. RSTDdog
    That tire might have had 150 miles left in it 500 miles ago. If there are alternating patches of rubber and cord,the tire was also cupped slightly. If you lock it up once good during the life of the tire, the resulting flat spot will start a progressive cup. My guess is if he had jacked up the rear and spun the tire and checked it carefully before he left, he would have stayed home. IIRC from new pictures the Avon Venom rear does not have a center groove or tread pattern that joins symetrically along the center of the tread. I think the tread lines alternate and partially pass over the center but don't meet.You really need to check and remember how the tire is new to evaluate when its worn. If your down to wear bars on the tread pattern out past the the center, the center was done many miles ago. He's lucky all it did was leak down to flat on him. Don't think you can blame the tire. RSTDdog
  6. RSTDdog
    Considering the Yamaha OCI is every 4000 miles thats not much of a stretch particularly if your changing the filter every 5k too. Yamaha lets you go every other oil change (8k) on filter changes if you care to, I don't. I'm at a 1.5 years and around 5500 miles on this last change. Going to change it based on the time. I'd go longer on just miles. Running the Rotella 5-40 T6 Synthetic. Seems to be fine. No slipping. Its JASO MA, but also CD, which Yamaha specifically says not to use. DOn't want to hijack, but I'd be curious to know why no CD rated oil. Probably a good thread for BITOG. RSTDdog
  7. RSTDdog
    Here are some pictures of the full solo look. Saddle bag inserts, seat rail and fender rack. On a midnight RSTD, It Is a very sharp look. Don't have the inserts or solo pieces any more, because the reality of switching back and forth all the time for two up riding set in. The quick detach back rest doesn't work when the inserts are installed. Now If your wife or significant other is OK to ride with out a back rest (mine isn't), or if your single...... then your good to go. RSTDdog
  8. RSTDdog
    I think you should be able to drain the fuel without removing the tank IIRC. I need to double check, but if you take the hose loose from the petcock (Fuel On of reserve valve on lower front left of tank) fuel will flow from there. Attach a long pice of hose and point into a container and turn it to reserve. Should gravity feed out of there. Open the cap it vents more. Adding fresh gas with high concentration of sea foam may help loosen things up. YOu will need to pull seat and the tank to get at the fuel pump, fuel filter. Its in the area behind the engine, below the seat and behind the side covers. I know V7Goose (screen name) lives in Texas but not sure where relative to Arlington. If your carbs need to be cleaned and gone through, from what I have read here, he would be the guy I would pay to do it. I know he has done this work for others and is more qualified, more thorough and better workmanship than your dealer for less money. I 'm sure he will be along in this thread. If not send him a PM. RSTDdog
  9. RSTDdog
    I forgot about the switchgear being chrome . The fact those are Chrome actually makes it more noticable that the brake and clutch master cylinder aren't. Goofy since S and midnight models of the ROad Star and Stratoliner the master cylinders are chrome.
  10. RSTDdog
    So I take it the bike has been sitting since at least JUne 2011, or is it even longer? If you didn't use stabil and even if you did, approaching a year or more carbs are likely dirty, gummed up. First off did you drain out the old gas and put in fresh fuel?? If you didn't, do that first. Put a full can of seafoam in with the fresh fuel. Pull the fuel line loose at the petcock and confirm that fuel is flowing there. Can you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key on? You should be able to hear it run, usually for 5- 10 secs with key on only but not pressing the starter. If you can't hear it run, it doesn't necessarily mean its dead, but may have varnish keeping the pump from working. You can probably free it up by spraying carb cleaner directly into the pump inlet and outlet (may have to remove pump) and let it set for a while. Then cycle the pump a few times and repeat. Once you confirm the pump is working and you can get fuel to the carbs see if it will stay running. If it will only idle with the choke pulled out, pilot jets are plugged. Seafom may clear it out if they aren't plugged too badly. I know there is a service manual available to download here, but I don't rember where it is. Hopefully someone has the link. Should be able to do most of the above with out it. Report back on your progress. RSTDdog
  11. RSTDdog
    I see in the other thread you got the torque spec confirmed. The only reason I knew it by heart is because I just did it. I saw it discussed in some older post I was going through on spark plugs and someone had the page attached. Alot of the torque specs aren't listed in the table but are found in the step by step breakdown in the service manual. The upper engine stay ( dog bone ) torque is in the engine section under removal and reassembly, but I think you found that already too. Bummer on the shoulder surgery. Good Luck and all the best with that. Be VERY diligent on your PT after surgery. That will be key for a full recovery. Be sure and put plenty of stabil in the fuel although I'm sure there are plenty of folks nearby that will help burn the fuel out of it for you and keep it fresh..... RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    As stated before Midnights have the Chrome Forks. Also chrome covers over the valve cover and some other chrome bits. The Midnight RSTDs ( and Venture's) were Raven black metallic. S designation Ventures and RSTDs (there are S model RSTDs that aren't black) have Chrome forks and extra chrome bits. All others have brushed finish on the fork covers and legs. Other Midnight differences include the spokes on the front wheel (that you can't really see behind the brake discs ) and the rest of the wheel except for the polished lip are black. Same for the rear wheel. My midnight does not have "chrome plated " master cylinders for the brake or clutch or "chrome plated " levers. The master cylinders do seem a bit more polished in appearance thn normal with a clear coat over them and the handles are polished with no clear on them so you have stay after them to keep them really shiny. They are not "Chrome plated" like you see onthe Stratoliner S and Roadliner S models. I'd like to have those Master Cylinders on my RSTD. Probably some other differences. RSTDdog
  13. RSTDdog
    Be sure and use a torque wrench on the dog bone bolts and tighten them up to spec (46 foot lbs). I just replaced my plugs. They were changed at dealership by the previous owner. Dog bone bolts broke loose pretty easy with a 3/8 ratchet. Don't think they were at 46 foot pounds. I torqued them down to spec after the plug change and things seem smoother. Not sure if its because the plugs, dog bone torque or both. My plugs still looked pretty good with 10,000 miles on them. Let us know how the brakes feel with those new stainless lines. Good work. I need to do this at some point too. I have changed the clutch and brake fluid before, I do that when it changes color from clear. My OE brake lines are going on 6 years old. OM says to replace them every 4 years. RSTDdog
  14. RSTDdog
    If you haven't bought anything yet, this is in your price range on the other coast and looks like a decent deal if it is what he says it is. A 1999 w/ Only 57K miles- for $2000 http://sarasota.craigslist.org/mcy/2885660153.html RSTDdog
  15. RSTDdog
    FYI for those that use Rotella its on sale at Advance Auto right now, at least in South FL market. Gallon jug of T6 full synthetic 5w-40 is 22.99 (reg 26.99) and the 15w-40 Dino ROtella is 12.99 for a gallon (Reg 17.99). RSTDdog
  16. RSTDdog
    If I were to buy one of these, I would not buy a new left over 09 for 12K. If you search You can can probably pick up an 08 or 09 bought new with low mileage that was bought in 2010 or 11, with 3 to 4 years of warranty left for 7-8K. FYI the 5 year warranty transfers. You can buy this bike used with more warranty than most bikes come with new. These are the only liquid cooled, shaft drive cruisers with electronic cruise control that I'm aware of. This is my first cruiser. My last bike was an ST1100. My wife loves the RSTD as a passenger. I like the bike alot, but for solo riding I can push it harder than it wants to go. Decide what type of riding you want to do, then decide onthe bike. I can tell you I can't keep up with my co worker who has a Vstrom 1000 in the twistys and he is disapointed in the V strom handling coming off an R6 but loves the comfort. With bikes Its all about trade offs or you need to own more than one. My bike as the whine/chirp but doesn't bother me. Straight cut gears are straight cut gears. Some are noiser than others due to manufacturing tolerances. It is what it is. I think all in all you would be hard pressed to find a more reliable cruiser with more features than the RSTD. If you want Fuel injection,give the Stratoliner/Roadliner a look, also reliable, but its V twin, air cooled and belt drive. You don't need any special tools to diagnose or clean carburetors. Its all about Trade offs... RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    NGK DPR8 EA9- 2.59 each at Advance Auto. Order online,Use Code P20 at check out for 20% off (works for everything) and pick up at the store, ends up at 2.09 each for the OEM plug. Works for me. Worked at a multiline Metric MC and PWC dealer and used nothing but NGK plugs. Never got a bad one. Had a plug cleaner we used to use on the sales bikes that got fouled form being run on choke all the time. Usually only takes one bad experience for someone to trash a brand. Always ran Champions in my OMC outboards with no problem. For a while they were the only ones that made the surface gap plugs for loopers. My school of thought was always run the plug who built it. NGK or Nippon Denso for metrics Japanese, AC Delco for GM, Motorcraft for Ford, etc. Never have had a plug issue. RSTDdog
  18. RSTDdog
    Well for an FYI if the engine is totally tanked or craps out after you buy it, there is a used one on ebay for $1000.00 plus shipping with only 6000 miles on it. So now you would be at 4500 with 107K on everything else (rear end wheel bearings drive shaft, suspension, etc. Plus you need to buy a tire, etc. If you have a budget your staying within look it over real good first and consider the total cost of getting it road worthy. If you have some extra money, I would look for a lower mileage example. I have had a Honda ST1100. I like my RTSD but will tell you, unfortunately Yamahas are not Hondas. All things equal, I would take a high mileage Honda over a Yamaha, no offense to my fellow VR members. That being said I'm not concerned about the 107 K on the engine, short of running it out of oil or water, its bullet proof. If the valves were never adjusted, thats another concern. but 107K on everything else may be the biggest issue. Think long and hard about total cost. RSTDdog
  19. RSTDdog
    No centerstand stock on mine and haven't added one. I have one of the Craftsman MC/ATV lifts, but some times the jack stand trick is easier for simple stuff and don't need as much floor space.
  20. RSTDdog
    Did you check the tire pressure in the rear? If its low, it will feel wobbly like you describe. Sometimes its just the simple stuff. Check the front tire pressure too. As far as the brake drag on the front rotors is it alot or just a little? a little drag as in you can hear the pads touching as the wheel spins but it doesn't really slow the wheel down is normal. Be better if you can get the bike in the air level and spin the front wheel and apply the brake a few times to check. Might just need to clean and flush the brake fluid. If your fluid is low, might be time for new pads. You can use a jack stand under each one of the rear passenger floor boards, depending on the style of jack stand you have. I put the stand under the bolt that holds the rear floor board on with the floor board folded up. I adjust the stand height and lean the bike up from the side stand on to the jack stand under the right rear floor board first. Then slide the other stand in under the left rear floor board pivot bolt. If its adjusted right you will have to slightly lift to take the weight off the suspension to the get the left stand in underneath. If the stands are set the same the bike will be level. this is how I level it to change oil. You can then use your floor jack to lift the front enought to spin the tire. You can only lift it a little bit set up like this. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    If it will start and run, try some seafoam in the gas. Let it run for a while until you know its in the carbs and shut it down. Let it sit overnight and start it up again the next day. Make sure battery is fully charged and cables are tight. Even running it on the centerstand periodically will be better than letting it sit. You can start it up at night and see if there is any spark leaking causing a miss. Cleaning the bike is cheap or free, just your time. Even if some stuff is faded, cleaning what you you can clean can make a big difference in curb appeal. Hope things get turned arond for you. RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog

    SCAM??

    RSTDdog replied to Yammer Dan's topic in Watering Hole

    I don't bother with anything on craigslist ( or any site) anymore that doesn't have a phone number. Real, non-scam, wholesale or below market deals on craigslist are sold generally within hours if not minutes of posting. There are people that do nothing but scour for these deals 24-7. Then there are the scam people just trying to add to their email addy list for spam. The last ad i responded too with no phone number seemed innocent and legit enough. A floor liner and a cargo net for a 2007 and newer Hyundai Sante Fe listed as being in my town, Not your typical scam ad at a price too good to be true. A couple of email exchanges and the real clue is when you give them a phone number to call you to make arrangements. Then no more responses and then start getting spam messages. I mean think about. Price is low because they really need to sell (or similar typical BS), but no way for you to contact directly, pick up immediately and pay cash??? RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    COnstant squeal like a belt slipping all the time or intermittent squeak , squeak , squeak that goes faster with rpm? So it got louder after the oil change? What oil were you running before this last change? Did you change the brand of filter? Is it worse when engine is cold or warm or doesn't matter? Does it do it idle in neutral only or also idle in gear with clutch pulled in or slow speed in gear- say parking lot speed? If the noise stays the same regardless of engine temp I doubt the type or weight of oil will have any affect. Try and put it in gear and see if squeak goes away when you let out clutch. Put your foot on the brake and load the engine and clutch a bit. Can you hear it more on one side of the engine than the other? Could be as simple as needing a carb sync. Sometimes if the carb sync is out they will make different noises at idle. RSTDDog
  24. RSTDdog
    I had a set of 08 Ultra mufflers. I did not see anything that looks like that inside. I will say that one muffler was very different than the other. One muffler (the right one I think )if you looked inside the inlet you could see all the way to the rear baffle plate. The rear baffle plate on that side had a little top hat that kept you from seeing out the exit hole straight through the muffler. The left muffler was different and you could not see very far past the inlet side at all. Since the left and right mufflers were so different internally (and the stock ones aren't) I was worried about exhaust flow balance left and right. Didn't feel like drilling hammering out the left one to see if i could get it to look like the right one inside so I sold them. The exhaust on a newer harley is different and they use a crossover for flow routing and balancing between the mufflers. I'm willing to bet one of your mufflers looks completely different inside than the other. Being 09 mufflers One of them likely has a Cat in it. I would want two mufflers that look the same inside. I think you need the older (before 05 maybe) RK or ultra mufflers to achieve this. RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    Zero Loss referes to the way the pump attaches. Alot of air chucks will lose a small amount of air when you remove them. The difference in the pumps I'm guessing is the guage itself and the design may make it easier to access the forks. With respect to gauges, the accuracy is typically rated through about 80% of the sweep. FOr instance if you look at guages generally say on Grainger, a 0-100 psi guage might have an accuracy specification of +/- 1 psi from 10-90 PSI. As a general rule you want to use a gauge that your target measurement is Midscale. So for tires and things between 20 and 40 PSI a 0-60 guage would be ideal. Having the pump with a lower guage of 0-30 makes seeing the incremental changes say from 5-6psi easier and would generally be more accurate for lower pressures than a 0-60 guage would be in the lower range (30 divisions VS 60 divisions). If you wanted to be real anal about measuring the fork pressures a 0-15 psi or 0-10psi low pressure guage would be ideal in combination with a zero loss chuck. On edit: Looks like I type too slow and you answered your own question on the gauge part. RSTDdog
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